j0hn

I have an XT 125X (2008) that has been locked away for the past 5 years after it failed its MOT. It required about £400 worth work to replace steering head bearings, rear wheel bearings and front fork oil seals but I never got around to it. Before I put it away, the engine was working fine with no issues, however, having sat there for all this time, I doubt it would simply tick over without some maintenance (oil/fuel change, new battery etc.). I'm probably going to get nothing in its current condition but could it be worth anything if I spent some time getting the engine running again at least? I don't see myself riding again so I'm looking to sell this off. I won't have the time or want to spend the money to get it to pass the MOT so I was hoping someone would buy it off me (minus the cost of repairs obv).

Thanks jimmy and NE0, I'm going to look at sorting it out this week so will keep posted.

Not sure what happened but my post disappeared when the Workshop sub-forum was restructured so posting this again. So I'm trying to bring my WR250F (2003) back to life again which has been stashed away for over three years now. It was working great before then and I even wrote up a project about it on here around 5 years ago (https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/37457-2003-wr250f-legalize-it-project/). Is there anything I should be doing first and foremost before I try to start it? I just want to make sure I'm doing everything right in case something gets messed up in the process. The bike is stored in a locked building so there is no worry of the elements getting to it. (1) There was almost a full tank of petrol in the tank (unless slowly evaporated). I carelessly left it in there without emptying it so I'm assuming this will need drained first? (2) I'm not sure if the battery would be completely dead, I'm thinking of plugging it into my Optimate 4 to see if it can revive it, otherwise I'd have to buy a new battery. (3) Air in the tyres, check tubes and lube the chains. (4) More than likely the engine oil will need replaced? (5) Replace coolant? (6) Need to check if the brakes have seized. (7) Will the spark plug still be ok? (8) Go around squirting WD 40 for good measure. Please let me know if I've missed anything other than the listed above or if any of the steps are unnecessary. I hope I don't have to end up pulling the engine apart and clean the carbs as I'm definitely not experienced enough to do that. Also fingers crossed the engine hasn't seized.

So I'm trying to bring my WR250F (2003) back to life again which has been stashed away for over three years now. It was working great before then and I even wrote up a project about it on here around 5 years ago (https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/37457-2003-wr250f-legalize-it-project/). Is there anything I should be doing first and foremost before I try to start it? I just want to make sure I'm doing everything right in case something gets messed up in the process. The bike is stored in a locked building so there is no worry of the elements getting to it. (1) There was almost a full tank of petrol in the tank (unless slowly evaporated). I carelessly left it in there without emptying it so I'm assuming this will need drained first? (2) I'm not sure if the battery would be completely dead, I'm thinking of plugging it into my Optimate 4 to see if it can revive it, otherwise I'd have to buy a new battery. (3) Air in the tyres, check tubes and lube the chains. (4) More than likely the engine oil will need replaced? (5) Replace coolant? (6) Need to check if the brakes have seized. (7) Will the spark plug still be ok? (8) Go around squirting WD 40 for good measure. Please let me know if I've missed anything other than the listed above or if any of the steps are unnecessary. I hope I don't have to end up pulling the engine apart and clean the carbs as I'm definitely not experienced enough to do that. Also fingers crossed the engine hasn't seized.

The // actually makes the URL protocol relative, meaning that it will use whatever protocol you are currently using to browse the site, unlikely to be the source of the issue.

Yea totally agree, just a shame he lost the bike. The driver not slowing down does play a pretty big part in this. It seems more like he was a bit inpatient and didn't wait for the buses/traffic to clear. If he had, it would have allowed him to crossover into oncoming traffic on the major road before turning into the minor. This would have meant his vehicle would be in a position similar to the illustration above where he might have only crossed over half the lane the rider was in, putting him in a better position to see the rider. I always ride under the assumption that they don't see you and work my way up from the worst case scenario. The size of the vehicle and the blind spots were just not in favour of the driver or rider in this instance though.

Without being too controversial, could this situation have been avoided? I know it's easy for me to type this without actually being there and knowing the factors that would affect your decision so this all just an analytical breakdown of the video. Could a bit of defensive riding have saved his bike? I don't condone what the driver did after the collision and as captf has already mentioned, the blind spots definitely didn't help the situation. Also, the way the driver reacted to the whole thing might just be the fact that he is in shock, but again, not the point I'm trying to make here. It's obvious that a vehicle of that size is going to have a larger turning circle and has been stated in the Highway Code (221). I know the illustration isn't the same as the road layout in the video but what it's trying to show is clear. The truck will, more often than not, crossover into oncoming traffic and drivers are advised to stop and wait if it needs room, which the rider clearly did. Around the three second mark, you can see through the metal railing that the truck has been indicating before approaching the road, obviously very difficult for the rider to notice so this was just to make sure the driver was properly indicating. I think the five second mark is crucial, not sure what rider was trying to look at, hopefully it was just an early shoulder check and not checking out the girl that walked by. I'm just guessing here but it's crucial because I don't think the rider noticed the indicator at this point and in turn, didn't realise the driver's intentions. First point I'll make is, had he focused on the road ahead, would there have been enough time for him to stop sooner, knowing the driver was already milking the extra room needed? Not putting this entirely on the rider because I think the driver should have waited for the buses/traffic to clear to get a better turning circle. Around six seconds, the driver can't see the rider and he showed no sign of stopping, rider is unaware. Around seven seconds, the rider realises this and let's say the shock of it prevents movement but still able to shout a warning. Around nine seconds the rider is able to save himself by using the crash momentum to roll off. I believe the rider was still in gear at this point because I couldn't hear any clutch noises coming up to incident and the engine seems to rev up and stall when he came off. Second point, around the time the rider realises the driver wasn't stopping (which is around seven seconds), was there enough time for him to ride across to the other lane? He did his shoulder check so should know the lane is clear from behind/sides and nothing is coming from the front on that lane. This really depends if he was in gear, if not, then the odds are higher. I know this opens the rider up to a whole lot of legal issues if moving over develops into something more. It may even be more dangerous if the rider didn't position himself in a safe place after moving as the driver still wouldn't be able to see him so potential to be caught by the rear wheels as the truck was always going to end up back on the right lane after some time anyway.

So only two bolts in and already having issues. No matter how much pressure I put on the hex key, I just don't think there is enough torque to slacken the axle. I also don't have an 8mm hex bit so I'll probably have to order a 3/8" hex bit set that has an 8mm bit. Even if I hack my way into getting it lose, I'll need the bit for my torque wrench anyway when I have to tighten it back up again. This set should be good I think: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-225127-Hex-Drive-7pce/dp/B00IV1SBV0/

Thanks for the tips so far. I've watched a few YouTube videos and some did suggest using the old bearing to push the new ones down. Hopefully I won't have to battle too long getting the old ones out, I'll see how I get on.

Hey KevtheRev, I'm planning to start this either on Monday or Tuesday. I was even contemplating taking Cynic's advice and have the forks alone done by a mechanic but will see how I get on once I actually manage to get the forks off. Congrats on getting all that done in an afternoon! I'm thinking this might be a job over two days for me and I also need to do the rear wheel bearings as well. Last time I did that, the difficult part was getting the race out and ended up having to take it to the mechanic to have it pulled.

Yea must be a hell of a lot of trust. I remember watching this Boeing video where it was almost a vertical take-off, imagine the power out from those engines .

Didn't you use to keep the bike inside Grouch? That would count as a locked building contributing to a much lower premium.

Just curious how you're planning to rig one up, is it to the bike or somewhere in your garden (door)? From what I can remember, you need to pull a pin for it to activate. I take it you'll attach it to the garden entrance like some sort of trip wire? Trying to think if there would be any legal workaround for the appropriate use of steel jaw-traps, wouldn't even need an alarm to hear anything then .

Just to add to what slice has already mentioned. This could also happen when you have either disconnected the battery or if it's low. You might have to look into getting a new battery if it's old. What you are currently seeing on the dashboard is the options to select from after a reset. Since the same dashboard is used on the R and the X model, you need to set it to the correct one. Since you have the XT 125 X, you need to wait until it displays ntrd then turn on the ignition and after the second flash of ntrd, press the blue button on the left handlebar (at the front).

I think that might just be the case lol, mine is still running great *knock on wood* .