shambles1980

wonder how it deals with oil and petrol. theres no mention of petrol or oil useage any where on there. could be usefull but i think instant gasket stuff is cheaper and lasts longer when you store it after use.

the silencer on the rxs is a bit well bent.. as a design.. i dont think i can poke anything down there. this pic has the downpipe still stuck on it.. but with the length of the baffle. the narrow neck where the downpipe connects, and the angle.. any thing that could be shoved down there which could be used to possibly push the thing out.. wouldnt quite reach the baffle. so im hoping a good soak. and then liberral use of a slide hammer will get it out. Still have the alternatave of grind the castelated nut off the other silencer and patch up the pin holes.. But structurally (apart from the rediculous baffle) the spare "the one im trying to use" is in much better condition

sounds like a plan.. i will caustic soda it for atleast 24 hours probably much longer.. then rinse that out. il probably slosh some white spirits in there for a while (just to give it a bit of a rince, (i cant afoard to fill it up with the stuff or 50/50 mix of break fluid) and then il go ahead and pour it full of boiling water and non bio washing up powder and see where that leaves me.. Il also borrow a slide hammer and see if i cant find some way of lodging it in there. i know the baffel should go like this |_ _| ..| o | ..|o | ..| o| So i may be able to get something wedged in one of the holes or some where. also it seems to me that my exhaust is in a much worse state than the worst one in the article posted lol.. perhaps they would like to borrow my picture.

about an inch n a half to 2 inches il try n get up there tomorrow to check

i sourced an engine from a breakers yard a while back for £60 delivered.

i dunno what the diamiter is didnt bother to measure it.. id guess about an inch and a half or 2 inches from 1 side to the other. also i like the sound of caustic soda. Sounds nice and agressive. hell im cnsidering some crazy ph acid and just disolve the whole baffel if i could guarantee the silencer would be un damaged lol. and i like to use my petrol via the carb.. Im a bit strange like that lol.. i like it to go in the big hole, down the little pipe, in to the little do dah, then sucked in to the big up n down thingy.. go pop.. then puff out the shiney tube at the back, in little clouds of bearly visible smoke.. i also like the whizzing allong faster than i can run side product of afore mentioned usage of the petrol. I dont think caustic soda has any similar side effects.

Ok. this silencer is in good condition. BUT the baffel is well and truley stuck.. I removed the bolt that holds it and well nothing.. As you can see the little grabby bar you grab with your pliers just isnt there. I have tried wd40, tried to wedge it out. tried to round out the lip on the silencer so its not as tight. rode the bike with no bolt holding the baffle. and nothing. just hasnt moved at all.. I have a much better baffle to use i just need to get this piece of junk out.

been tinkering a bit.. the silencer there is better condition than mine so i threw that on there.. but the baffel is stuck in it.. No idea how im getting that sucker out. The old one.. castel nut is stuck. tried to preswade it with wd40.. mull grips. heat.. a spanner between the sticking up bits.. and a hammer.. ended up with one mangled castel nut stuck to the silencer.. Which dosent bother me really silencer was perished and has pinholes.. but i really need to get the baffel out of the one in the picture so i can use the baffel from my old exhaust in it.. the bar that you usually grab to pull it out is gone, and i have no idea how its stuck in there now., i removed the little bolt but it just wont come out (i think its deformed or something) any ideas would be welcome. I tried putting a nail in the hole for the bolt and using that as a lever with my trusty hammer.. thatd didnt do squat though. (just bent the nail) thought to my self the baffel of my old silencer would just pop out if i forgot to pput the nut in.. so tore round the garden with the bolt out.. it didnt move a bit.. So i guess i may end up sourcing a silencer for it. but not overly impressed by them. Its either grind the castel nut off the old one and hope the thread dosent get knackerd. patch that piece of junk up. and use that. or find away to get the baffel out of the new one. i have the new barrel and head ready to go. also got a top end bearing just to be sure. Since i put on the pod filter i can hear a distinct rattle. and i think thats probably the top end bearing, although could just be a naturall rxs top end noise. The bike is still being ioncredibly rediculous. it will go about like its bearly getting any fule then all of a sudden REEEEEEEEEEEEERrrrrrr and im at the bottom of the garden. spin it around and nothing. bearly power to get me moving and i have to clutch in fast a few times just to get it to not stall and then start moving again. (get the rpm up) had it up to 8k rpm in 1st wont go above 6k in neutrall. Seems to be about right but its just being totaly rediculous. im hoping the new barrel pston and rings will finaly put an end to that though. Its alomost to a point where i can feel my fingers for long enough to do some serious work. but its still a bit to cold now.. Any way.. if you have any idea how i could get the baffel out id be glad to hear it. if the symptoms sound like a CDI/coil iossue to you let me know and il just swap that out.. and hopefully i can get the real work underway pretty soon.. oh, and i bought a short rear indecator, which is chrome by mistake. the ones already on mine are long and black. But i prefer the short chrome one i bought, any one know which year they came from?

well plenty of people have dt's here so some one will come and let you know.

pretty sure that you have to pull the choke out to engage it. dont have a dt my self but i think the carb is the same as an rxs. carb strip down is easy. just start un screwing and it comes to pieces. just dont lose anything "like the little pin above the float" Have you checked that the idle screw is in the rioght place though.. (adjusted so the rpm is correct) Its also a good idea to have a look at the fule tap. and make sure fule comes through that at a constant rate.. This should have a fule filter on it.. they are easy to take off the tank. but you would want to keep your fule in a nice safe place 1st or its just going to go every where.. i would also check the airfilter. and anything that could mess with the fuel/air mixture. all of that is really basic stuff though. you should be able to do all of it in less than an hour. (depending how full your fule tank is and how long it would take to drain IF you were to take the fule tap off) it still shouldnt take much more than an hour.

nothing seems to keep me dry and warm ever lol. So i am watching this thread with interest.

women know where your stuff is,, i used to know where my stuff was, then i got married and now i have to ask where things are.

i just dont like it much.. was never a fan of the looks of cafe racers though.

wife and i agree thats not art.. and possibly some help may be needed for the people who think it is art lol.

i like the front disks. and umm.. no thats it really lol

what the hell did i just watch for like 30 seconds? i cant un see that..

nope.. thats why i was asking mainly. all it has is api SL/CF acea a3/b3 i think that all means car perol and diesel, and then the grade. (prety low grade) im not an expert on that though, but thats what i think it means. im not sure that because its a3 rather than Cx it has less anti friction addetaves, or if its just cheapo stuff.. was really wondering how much clutch slipping i should expect from it If i used it. and i was wondering if im going to change the oil any way, should i get 20W50 mineral oil. or 10w40 syemi synthetic, I was going to go for 10W40, but as mentioned the stuff i have is for cars. so if im having to buy some any way wonder what id be better off using. the bike will be quite high above sea level as im in snowdon and live up the mountain a bit. so it does get prety cold up there, still may end up trying it to see.. I see some people say they only get occasional clutch slipping but i dont actualy like the thought of clutch slipping lol. I dont wake up in the morning and say "I know what i need, an occasionaly slipping clutch!"

didnt think it would be the best idea.. but the crap thats in there has to be all gunked up and manky by now, so i was thinking of throwing some of this in there letting it turn over for a while throw some more in let it turn over a bit longer then drain the whole lot out. I was thinking i could possibly just use the rest for the new oil. but if its "a stupid idea" and i should "snap out of it" then i could instead put whats left in maybe with some of that engine fush stuff let it tick over a bit again "just to warm up" then drain that out too, and hopefully get it as clean as possible. the new oil should then have the best start of life.. or should i just not put it in there at all even if it is just to clean.. because my alternatave idea was to pour some diesel in there to clean it out, but im thinking thats an even worse idea.. "or is it"

im pretty sure SL/CF means that its for petroll or diesel cars.. no other lettering to tell me its good for bikes.. if its no good then its no good but il probably end up risking it any way. as i can just drain it and clean it all up later if the clutch slips like crazy.. but haveing said that if i was told "definatly dont use it your being stupid shambles." then i may just probably not put it in there lol.. But im thinking it should probably work ok.. I think the rxs has a wet clutch. "dont see why it wouldnt" so i dont need a slipping clutch confuzing me when we are talking about a bike that already suffers from power/drive issues.

i have some nice new 10W40 semi synthetic oil. Was going to throw it in the rxs.. but i was wondering if thats going to be ok or will it cause clutch slip? i was thinking maybe get some mineral oil, but not sure what kid like 20W50 or what? any way will the 10W40 semi synthetic work ok? edit i forgot to add the importaint part lol.. api SL/CF (so im thinking clutch slippage)

the only problem with methaine is that its going to pollute lots.. if you use pine trees atleast they love Co2 and store it up. they also grow prety fast, and the more co2 they get the more seeds they produce.. they also secreet pine resin. which is nice and flamable. It would need a lot of land. and a lot of refining so the oil companys could get a slice of the pie. would be a shame to knock down all other un needed trees.. like birch and beach.. which in a world of motoring are generally useless. but if you did that and just had vast areas of pine trees you could probably fule the world on the stuff whilst they went ahead and sucked up all the co2 making them grow faster.. Now i have never studied how much resin one tree will actually be able to yeild in a year. or how many trees you would actually need. and its quite possibly a rediculous idea, But in hypothetical terms. it is quite an elequent sustainable solution for a renewable and relitivly clean source. "self cleaning"

cant help but think that the second one would be much more efficient and provide more tourque if it was using liquid instead of air. could still use a manual pump but would need to be a sealed circuit with only liquid in it. id probably go for some sort of oil which would help with lubrication.. some high temperature oil would be the bets idea.. but i dont see how practicall it would be for any one unless it was actually powerd by a small internal combustion engine that worked the pump at variable speeds for diferent acceleration purpouses.. Thats the joy of internal combustion.. its easy to regulate the cycle of the piston.. or i should probably say the rpm of teh engine.. Electro magnets enjoy the same easy variable rpm which makes them viable, although currently rediculous alternataves.. I could not affoard to charge a car up every night on the price of electricity.. It would probably work out at about £40 for 8 hours of charging.. and even then the range of the battery's is never going to justify it.. if you could run an electric car/bike for a week without the need to recharge or worry about the range. and then it only took 40/80 seconds to fully charge and costed about £30 to do that.. then it would be a sure fire hit.. but electricity isnt going to get any cheaper. the batteries may get better and last longer, but they will only take longer to charge.. and the alteranatve is to have an internal combustion engine acivly charging as you drive.. so while i like the idea of sustainable motoring that dont rely on fossil fules. the Only reall option would be to have a fule tank full of water. which then has electricity passed through it seperating it in to its component parts, then have a second tank to trap the hydrogen... and use that as your internal combustion fuel.. But thats not a good option either because water is not infinet. and to use water in such a manner would be disgracefull when so many places have constant droughts.. so in my oppinion.. The real chalange should be to find a renewable sustainable fuel for combustion engines which burns clean. And my vote is to start looking at refining pine resin.

sounds a lot like a go cart

dunno the 25k a year to keep some one in prison sux.. so i still vote "island + fend for them selfs" its going to work out cheaper in the end.

wasnt the horse.. if your talking about car vs bike.. i dunno looks like it was filmed to make the car look like it was better. but it also looked like they were doing about 40mph max. with the car constantly out performing the bike, and the bike having no acceleration.