shambles1980

I want to re-spray my bike from the original red to british racing green. It has been mentioned that if i do that i have to notify the dvla of the changes and any changes will cost me money... is this true and if so do you know whow much it costs to change the bikes registerd colour

ok so that explains why it works at about 1.5 but not at 1 thanks sounds like its almost perfect then.

hi just wiondering what the idle speed for an rxs 100 is supiosed to be? finaly got round to fiering it up after changing the head. i will add that i did not know if the 2 stroke oil pump worked so i made a 25% premixed oil/fule just to be on the safe side.. any way the pump works so now i have a lot of smoke but thats to be expected with the amount of oil in the fule. any way.. i tried to set the idle rpm at the little 1 on the clock. but it stalls at 1 unless i give it some revs. it idles fine at about 1.5 though so thought id come check the recomended idle rpm.. the down pipe seems to have a hole in it if that will affect it so i will be fixing that. and seems like i have a lot of re wiering to do for the indecators and tail light excetera. any way i was just checking that i could make it run with a new head on there which seems to have fixed the compression issues. i have a spare carb on stand by. once i get the engine running reasonably well i will the strip it down and re build it with the new seals bearings and gaskets that i have for it. so umm idle rpm please any one know?

just remember.. fumes + spark/flame = Boom.. you need to get all the fule/fumes out 1st.

never fixed a bike fule tank,. but on cars we used to sand them down. to mettal around the area. then make a little plate that would cover the area. bend that to shape. "i was never very good at making them the perfect shape" clean the area nice and clean, then use solder plumbers uses for hot water pipes and melt it on to the are. sand it down a bit. then put the plate on there and then technically "but definatly not actually" weld the plate of mettal to the tank with solder around the edges. its a bit of a pain in the butt to do. but i think thats the correct way to fix a fule tank. "if its what we had to do to cars then it should be the same for a bike right?" you can do it with just a blow torch as well you dont need any fancy tools. but you do need to get the plate your using to match the contours very good.. having just typed all that out. unless the hole was in a inconspicuous place on the bike tank. then it would probably stick out like a sore thumb, where as with a car the tank is hidden away. and this is probably why bikes use some sort of epoxy. but id still probably just try to use solder without the patch rather than fill my tank with stuff that could end up in my engine.. Should be able to braise it if you have the tools for that. Pretty much the same as soldering but you get a better bond as your actualy stealing some of the existing material and mixing it with your brass as you patch the hole. of course you have to make sure there is absolutley no fumes or fuel left in the tank before you start..

even just making the ports optimal would make a diference at stock cc, usually blue printing is something you would do to a race day bike. under the assumption that its going to last the season. but probably going to need a rebuild at the end of it. dont know what you would expect of it if your going 25cc bigger and getting it blue-printed its going to be a huge diference..

well if its blue-print it will have its ports tweaked and everything am i correct? still think £400 is a lot though considering its a re-bore of your own cylinder, and not a pistion/gaskets/cylinder/head and barings. and even if it was i still think £400 was a bit much. cant really see how a re bore tweak + piston would be much more than £250 personally. But i could just be being cheap again. id probably "if i needed a rebore" just go up the 0.50 or or whatever the next available size is and get the piston/rings for that. i dont think that would be any where near as expensive as 400.

I think i would check compression.

so what every one is saying is.. Even without personal injury. provided that the person that hits you "not your fault" was fully comp HIS/HER insurance will pay for your injuries? But if you crashed in to some one els "your fault" then your fully comp would pay for other peoples injuries, but not for you own?? Thats what I get as the jist of what every one has said.

gaskets arent expensive. engine seals when bought as a kit arent that expensive either.. i would always recomend a reasonably well made 1/2 inch ratchet set. try to make sure the 1/2 inch sockets go down to atleast 12mm "mine go to 10" and then an impact driver is also usefull. and you cant do anything to an old engine without a can of wd40. so id get the biggest one you find. a resaonable socket set with 1/2 inch ratchet and sockets down to 10mm may be a bit costly. but well worth the investment, if you cant affoard the ones with lifetime warranty like snapon...then you can get prety inexpensive ones that have a 5 or so year warranty. and for the price of them "usualy like £40 in the uk" its pretty good value for money. i dont think any one with a motor cycle can survive without a socket set. "prehaps 2 of them" and some spanners. (you often need a spaner on 1 side and a socket on the other to un do a nut) sometimes you can take the cover off and look near the fly wheel and see oil has leaked.. thats a sign that the crank seal has gone.. but the wd40 trick is new to me and i may be trying that one my self.. oh and with the kits if your getting just the crank seal sets. check them when they arrive. i have had people send me 2 of the same side and they should have been different.

dwi ddim yn meddwl dylsia ni siarad cymraeg... ond yndi ^ just saying i dont think we should be talking welsh. "and yes its nice to see other welsh people here"

i would indecate if i were you. prety sure the highway code says you dont need to indecate when there is no one around, not that you should not indecate.. "but i havent read that thing for quite a long while lol" as for the rest I just notice that most of the quoote in the post above has answers in it lol

im welsh too so hello "i think there is atleast 1 other welsh man here some where"

i think its also a matter of dirty number plates.. your going to get stoped if your number plate is partually coverd with crap. and a mud gard helps stop that. so Mot needs it. and if you take it off after the mot and manage to splash dirt on the number plate and the fuzz see you you will get stoped. dunno if they would tell you to clean it and be on your way. or they would want to be dicks and say its not worthy for the road due to the mud gard. some of them wouildnt want the paper work. others would like the credit.

id probably have alook to see whats actualy making the rattle my self.. could just be barings.. could be one of the piston rings have gone and is now destroying the cylinder nicley for you.... id have a look. 2 strokes are really simple engines. they just like to be perfect, compared to a 4 stroke that is a bit more complicated to work on but dosent mind a few things being a bit iffy.

so far havent done much "i put on the new head re using the old gasket to test if that helped pressure and it did." and thats about all i have done. but i have found my self the missing right hand side panel for my rxs.. (you can see in my avatar it missing) new one is blue but wth thinking of re spraying the whole thing black or British racing green any way. I just bought a box of bits.. "probably all un needed" but it does have the yamaha logo that goes under the headlight in the box "im also missing one of those" i also see atleast a partial carb. and a few other bits that could be usefull. So all i need now are standard wing mirrors and a nice new seat cover and it would be almost complete original spec. But i have also got a tzr top n bottom faring that i am negotiating on now. "just need to discuss price with the guy" the faring isnt in best condition few cracks and splits. and the kit to repair the thing would be about £30. also again it would need a respray after. so i guess i am restoring it's asthetics to original spec "new paint job though" AND pimping it out at the same time. lol, the house still has main priority. so that sucks but i have put the carpet down in the main bedroom now. and i put the underlay down in the living room. "also installed a new fire place. finished the kitchen. and painted most of the house" So with any luck it wont be long before i can crack on with this project.. it will probably be ready to work on just about the same as when its so cold you cant hold nuts/screws with your fingers. but i will persevere.

i just cant understand the lip lol.. gasses can be compressed. if it was for a liquid i could try to explain it away.. what are the chances that its just some stupid part of mfr process that they then said "oh crap.. that wasnt ment to be there.. but what the hell it still works" having said that.. the actual port in the cylinder is smaller than the bore of the output for the exhaust. but then theres a stupid lip.. so i dont understand what the hell its there for other than restricting the escape of gasses.

but you can roll over every one SMIDSYing

to me high viz is for people working on the side of the road at night. or something people wear on a construction site when people are walking about.. 1st thing you throw them in or on a vehicle. then the vehicle is more noticeable than a jacket.. "if you walk in to a room with a r1 and a high vis jacket on the floor.. I guarantee you will notice the r1 1st.." if you have to get off the bike because you broke down on the side of the road and you have no lights Then high vis would be useful to wear. but i dont see any reason to have high viz if its not dark or your lights actually work. if they cant see you in day light on the back of a bike. then high viz wont make them see you.. if they cant see a shining ball of light mysteriously traveling at 40 Mph down the road at night.. then high viz wont help them see you either.. i really think every one should be made to ride a bike for 2 years before they get a car. i dont think any one after driving riding about for 2 years would then fail to see a motor bike.. having said that.. I wont be caught driving at night without high vis. but i really dont think it will help me any lol.. if they dont see a head light coming at them then they wont see my high vis because to start it they mostly arent pointing there lights at you when they pull out infront of you. but with the 6v lighting on the rxs a nice reflective rear number plate seems to be more visable than the stupid tail light. but that should still mean no need for high vis.. just take all the blind people off the road. high vis on a bike is like wearing a hard hat in your crane/whatever on a construction site.. if something is big and heavy enough to fall and flatten/come through the cab. then a stupid white hat wont protect you. and if they dont see a friggin bike they wont see your jacket. because the only way they dont see the bike is if they arent even looking. or are to busy doing something els

but then it would be a 115cc lol.. the inlet dosent really bother me. and i think that is probably adequate for the ammount of fule that its going to be using. and i think id get more gains from changingto fibre reed valves rather than to mess with that. infact none of the actuall ports in the cylinder worry me at all. "atleast not for now" that lip however really does look like its just there to restrict the engine. in my mind it could mess with the mixture at higer revs leaving exhaust gasses in the cylinder reducing the effectiveness of the engine. but its a 2 stroke. and although they are really simple things. they dont tollorate much, things you could get away with on a 4 stroke. a 2 stroke will probably just flat out tell you to screw your self. so maybe im a coward. maybe i actually have a little bit more common sense than i thought i had. But i wont be messing with it unless i get a definate answer from some one. preferably with a vid of it working as proof they arent just messing with me lol

i dont see why we should have to wear high vis, just because of some idiots that dont use there eyes.. You already have to ride about with your light on in broad daylight and to be honest if they dont see a motor bike with its lights on and a rider on the back of it.. What diference will high viz make? its like painting an elephant yellow so its easier for blind people to spot.. "but in reality blind people wont see the elephant no matter what you do to it" in my oppinion. if you cant see a motorcycle coming then you should not be on the road. and if you cant see a motorcycle coming. then puting high vis on the rider wont make any diference either. nothing short of a giant neon sign saying "LOOK HERE" With an arrow pointing at the rider would make them notice. and hell they probably wouldn't see you then either. i think the best thing to do would be force all learner drivers to pass the CBT and spend atleast 2 years riding arround on a bike before they get to own a car. and then see how many of them say "sorry mate i didnt see you"

you must go and make a new member post.. go here.. http://yamahaclub.com/forums/forum/48-new-members/ make a hello post..

lol.. but i take it you didnt do it? the way im Guessing it.. is that stupid lip thing will trap some exhaust fumes so at say 4th gear i dont be able to achieve the full amount of revs the engine is capable of. but i really dont want to make it impossible to start the bike or make low revs/mid revs useless.. i also dont want to get a new cylinder take 1mm off re build it test it then take another 1mm off and repeat until i find i can totally remove it. or that i ruined the spare head.. but Im guessing that would be the best way for me to test it.. i dont think i could get 17Bhp out of the engine. im not saying others cant. im just saying i dont think i can lol. but 1 or maybe 2 hp may be something i can manage with some tinkering, but i really had hoped some one would have known the answers lol.. i had a look at some 115 and 135 heads, and they also have these lip things but they seem to get smaller the bigger the cc atleast they look to be smaller with the pics i can see. i may have a look at the book you mentioned but i feel that it will be more directed at the actuall ports where as to me "atleast" this lip looks more like a power valve that is just stuck in the "idle" possition permenantly. and from that i have to assume it Must have some function at the lower/mid rpm otherwize why would they have power valves on other bikes if it would function properly fully open through out all the range.

Have you never just decided to make a project Just because you can/want to. with no aims for making money at the end of it? its some thing to do. and the costs arent really an issue. and when your talking about farings.. Its not like they are permenant fittings.. so even if costs do start to mount up on my project i can still use the bike as i work on the asthetics.. so it really isnt a problem. also I dont believe my hands are made out of clay. and that i cant manufacture a few brakets and weld a few things together if needed. I only did 12 months engineering back in 1995.. But i can still use power tools and weild an ark/mig or oxy acetylene If push comes to shove. I may not have the tools/workplace to do more intrecate work. But cutting and making brackets i can manage.. the costs may seem low to you. and prehaps thats correct. but the way i see it if i wanted to spend a few thousad to get some one els to make my bike look how i wanted it. I may as well just buy the same old factory churned out bike every one els is buying. but then where is the fun in that?

ok.. so i should have the front end faring for a tzr on the way.. now for the tail end.. do you guys think that the tail fairing from ybr 125 would fit ? "without having to hack the seat up. or change it for a different one" I think it may.. but as usual i would like an expert opinion. so i ask you guys.. any way here are 2 examples of the biks just in case you want a visual reference..