jbhome

well, I finally got it running well but now the rear shock is too soft. I'm 175Lb and it's way too easy to bottom. anyone have any suggestions on rebuild replace? thanks, Jim

Well I thought I was done. This is regarding the kickstart not disengaging. The picture above doesn't show the parts behind the gear. There is a lobe on the shaft the limits the travel of the shaft (foot off kickstart /foot and kickstart at lowest position). There is also a large spring clip that should ride in a groove on the back of the gear on mounted on the kickstart shaft. In my case this came off/moved and was sitting between the gear and the case limiting the gear's ability to clear the clutch gear. The spring clip, slides on the gear but... has enough friction when you kick, to stop the drive gear from turning. This in turn causes the gear to run up the spline on the kickstart shaft and engage the clutch gear and start the engine. In my case, there was not enough tension on the spring so a little bending was required to ensure it properly engaged the gears. It would sure be nice if there were pictures of this. I have a service manual that has phrases like install and remove. I for one expect a little more from a manual. It's kind of like putting an open door sticker on a locked door to a room. I know I want to open the door. The question is how. So much for my rant. On step closer to being done.

ok finally it works. first comment ... Never assume. I assumed the bike was in factory state....WRONG as noted earlier, oil seal in oil pump blown oil o/p line connected to float bowl overflow fitting throttle slide hose connected to oil input fitting on carb main jet needle clip set 1 down from normal/center position air cleaner backwards in box. This was the last issue the bike now revs freely, doesn't smoke and pulls like a champ Never assume. now maybe I can get a ride in before the white stuff comes and clean it up over the winter. thanks everyone for your help, and patience in resurrecting my new ride jim

what's the best way to do that. I took off the intake manifold and chkd the reeds. They looked ok but the gasket was toast. I made a new one and used grease on if rather than gasket goo. Will the rubberized side seal to the carb fitting?

Hi mod, Thought I did but will check. update on starting. starts first kick on choke but as it warms, there is no idle. Keeping it around 4-5k will keep it running but release throttle and it dies. haven't replaced o-ring on idle mix adjust needle but would expect that to move adjust setting at most. guess I get to pull that apart again too. Arrggh would like one ride fore it snows.

Thanks for the responses. Hopefully this clears the problem. I replaced both crank seals and in the process, had to pull out and re-install the kickstart shaft. Now when/if the bike starts, I get a ratcheting sound from it even though the lever is all the way up. what am I missing? jim

He's back. Rather be riding but... When I got the bike, there was a tube going from a fitting on the side of the carb in line with the slide, to a second fitting at the lower front/engine side of the carb. Both fittings are on the side opposite the choke pull. There was a third fitting with a tube going to the oil pump. Seemed correct but now I'm not so sure. In thinking about it, isn't the bottom fitting on the float bowl the overflow, and shouldn't it just go back between engine and frame. The fitting nearest the cylinder would seem a logical place for the oil fitting, leaving the one on the throttle slide??? With hoses fitted as originally purchased, the bike starts, idle picks up then engine dies. I plugged the end of the tube going to the engine side of the carb (vs air cleaner side) and connected the line from the oil pump to the fitting on the throttle slide and things worked better but still not right. Haven't been able to find any pictures of this area nor is there any good detail in the parts schematics. Regards, Jim

thanks for the quick reply everyone. I did the cloth thing with the crank bolt but I'm still unclear about the clutch nut as the basket is now free. I would like nut torque specs if possible as well on another note, I'm broken hearted. The last bit from my impact tool bought when I had 71 ct175 broke. The tip just gave op. sniff. Small tear down cheek. so good at undoing those challenging map Phillips screws. now to find new bits in I can order that. For you land.

Well I guess I'm back again just chaulk full questions. I'm replacing the clutch side crank seal and not sure how to disconnect the oil line from the clutch side cover to the oil tank. any suggestions gratefully accepted. I got the inner clutch basket retaining bolt off with my impact wrench but not sure how to torque it back on as I don't have the appropriate wrench. on the same note what's the best way to bend the locking plate up to secure the nut? let's hope it runs ok after this. After sitting for a couple of days it starts right up with a fair amount of smoke??? As the pump is disconnected runs for a while and then dies. have a great day/ride Jim 92 FJ 79 DT175 73 CT90 2012 raspberrie pi 2012 Mendel prusa.

I would if the fund said yes. Right now it is saying no no no. I had noticed a small red puddle developing under the bike so I decided to have a look at the oil pump. It looks good, all nice and shiny. The gush of oil and ??? something that didn't mix with the oil.. water??? was impressive. When I took the pump off, I found the seal most of the way out of the pump. Guess that would explain the drip and full cavity. I'm wondering if having the pump open like that might have contributed to the weird operation of the engine, drawing air through the pump, into the oil feed channel into the carb??? BTW how does one take the hoses off? The one with the spring clamp was easy. The other seems to have a tubular clamp and didn't seem real interested in coming off. Jim Doing a teardown at a more modest pace.

Well.... I'm back again. Got a flywheel side crank seal and replaced it. I pushed the seal in a bit far, expecting a sholder so it's about 70 mm below the case shoulder. Should have read the post above but that's how it goes. I smeared some grease on the both inner and outer seal faces as well as the OD of the seal. The bike started almost immediately. Idle was a bit unsteady. Tried to ride it and as soon as I let the clutch out/load the engine,it started to baff and wanted to stall. I have not done the clutch side seal yet. If I let it sit for a minute or two, it starts first/second kick, idles for a couple of seconds, then dies. Reving it seems to keep it running. Pulled the plug the first time and it was wet. Second time not. The oil light is on but it's smoking a reasonable amount so not going there just yet. Any sage advise greatfully accepted. Jim

yep some people do have a lot of time and we are so lucky to benefit from their dedication. compares well to the Honda dominoes add.

Maybe the spark was a finger problem or maybe my old eyes couldn't see it in the bright lights. All of the connections looked fine and the signals from the trigger coils seem to be reasonable. It started with the old black plug originally then stopped don't know. It's working. When I sprayed wd40 into the area behind the flywheel, it started immediately, ran for a few seconds and died so I'll order seals tomorrow. The white stuff is not in chunks like some of the pictures I've seen it's just a powdery deposit in the bowl and lower carb body. It's probably OK.

Re the spark issue. It had little/no spark so I started there. Pulled/reseated all connectors, went through the ohms test above. Net result I get a nice blue spark. Re the flywheel puller, I lucked out and bought one for a Suzuki and it fit perfectly. I Just happen to have an electric impact driver and taking the flywheel off was a breeze. Torqueing is a little more difficult as I don't have the flywheel holder but fifth gear a friend and lots brake seems to work. Re the clutch side I've used a rag between the crank/clutch gear. Seems to work well enough. Re crank bearings, the engine sound good when it's running. No rattles or vibes so for now it's just seals, assuming the flywheel side is not corroded too much. I'd still like a way to remove the white deposits(aluminium oxide?) from the carb. Any suggestions. Re parts list, I've been using the Yamaha OEM websites with exploded views. Do you have something you could share? So we're OK with the spark issue? Seems my lot in life to piss people off without even realizing it. Remember. The shiny side goes up! Jim

Welll...... The seals have it. Sprayed wd40 around crank and it started and ran for a couple of seconds then died. Thanks for the hints. Are seals hard to find? What is the best/safest way short of case splitting to remove the seals.? Watched a guy on youtube punch/crease in the metal edge of the seal(releave pressure then worked on a screwdriver to lever it out? Old plug looks pretty black so I guess both seals would be appropriate. Again everyone, thanks for your help and your patience. Have a great ride Jim