dt502001

At a girl ....real bikers don't let weather stop the ride,mind it's much more fun in nice weather.Just think free parking less gas $$ you will save up for the bigger bike in no time. Fly screens on a small bike can cause the bike to want to steer it's self in cross winds as they are attached to the forks.The bike will handle better without in windy conditions. wishing you many more safe and happy miles

Glad it's fixed but the credit goes to Airhead he's the one who asked the right question,I just told you how much play you should have.Just glad we could help

As the bike was left in the sun to rot that bad, I would be looking at the crank seals,me thinks they got dry and craked alowing air in causing the lean condition. I would also have a good look at the crank if the piston melted that bad chances are the crank is dammaged as well. As well before installing the carb make sure it's 100% clean possibly the jets were slightly pluged up and not alowing 100% of the fuel. If your going to scrap the bike a young lad here had his bike stolen and is looking for parts I'm sure he would be interested in whats left of your bike. I will have a look and find his user name. Adam Jones is his name sorry about your luck that is one of the best/worse melt downs I have seen in a while.

Don't park it in the sun apparently they have quite the history of not starting when the tank gets hot.Go to the workshop area and read all about it.

Adding hp is going to add stress on the crank without a doubt' but if they have been selling these kit's for a while you should be safe.If motors were blowing up left and right they would stop making them. I'm sure the ppl in the R&D department at athina did a bunch of testing before putting the kit to market. They don't want to give themself a bad name. The forged piston in the kit would be about the same weight as the stock cast so the reciprocating weight will be about the same load on the crank. Not sure how much info about carburation adjustments comes with the kit but for sure your going to need to do lots, as well the transfer ports in the case will need some mod's to get the full benfits of slaping a 170 barrel on.So while you have the motor appart to port the the transfer ports either put in a new crank or have yours rebuilt. I would be leary about putting the 170 on a old crank.

I'll bite what is a OCTY? Your petcocks are vaccume opened I belive so if you pull the fuel line off no gas should flow from the tank when it's not running. More likely is that the needle and seat in the carb are worn out so the float can't close the fuel from entering th bowl when full, or the float height is to low. or you have a float that has a hole in it and don't float anymore.

Ya puma you should have 1/8 of a inch at the lever to mount free play if the cable is too tight the clutch can't fully engauge.

Just a quick ? have you looked into which bike will cost the most to insure you might find the 660 is cheaper than the 450 It's 601.00 a year to ins my 1200 bandit and 424.00 for the 250

Ok I have ridden all the bikes mentioned,drz ok and a big jump from your 125 you will be happy for a couple more years and very reliable but heavy for a 450. The ttr 600 is the best choice though power everywhere with very long service intervals.You just cant beat a motor that has slowly been developed to run forever. Much easier to service than the wr line up. I would let you ride my wr 250f and you would shit to think it's only 2x a bigger motor than your 125, My bud rides a1990 honda xr 600 and I can blow him away 1st to 6thgear when I can get the rear wheel to hook up,,,, the wr 450 426 are death machines on the road the throttle is on or off,,I almost filped the 450 over just taping the throttle to pass a bus,,,, seriously before even thinking about buying one of them try and ride one you will be so suprised at the power and you will be tearing it apart every 1000-2000 kms to check and replace valves if you ride it hard at all.My buddy has a wr450 and if he runs it more than 4 weekends of raceing without changing the valves it blows up,we have seen as much as 10 thou of strech on valve's after 4 weekends. PS I buy valves 10 at a time and 4 head gaskets just to give you a Idea how much it cost to keep the wr250 running for a year.

Don't bother it's a heaver chain and you will loose rear wheel hp by going that way. If anything put a 420 chain and sprockets on

I'm with Cynic on this one short blast at red in top gear, and never on a cold motor,holding it there for any prolonged time is just asking for it to blow.These motors were never ment to be ridden on the road realy.mostly just blasting aroung a track where top gear is seldom ever reached Drilling a 1/32 hole in the piston 1 cm down from the bottom ring in the 4 corners of the piston alows more oil to reach the load areas of the piston just make sure your not drilling where the ports are. I know it sounds weird but the holes work like a pump and it's been proven to work. I couldn't keep pistons in my go cart on the long tracks when I switched to alcohol class until I started doing it, after a old timer felt sorry for me and told me the trick. I would still loosen the bore up a bit with a few passes with a hone ,,,,,every piston grows/expands at a different rate and this sounds like it's growing faster than the cylinder

That funny DT ,when ppl call and say My check eng light is on whats wrong? My comeback is "sorry my crystal ball is in the shop right now so you will have to bring the car in for me to have a look"

Well that takes care of the MTO issue,, as far as the loom no idea most run around 300 I would have a look on evil bay and local breakers for a used one first.

wow open invite to Argentina hmm I was thinking of going to Alasaka to the top of the world next year But that ride sounds fun have to give it some thought. Welcome to the YOC Gaberial PS I think most here are infected with no chance of being cured or wanting to be

Lmfao a old friend of mine lost 3 fingers doing exactly that,I couldn't belive he was that stupid now i see lots of ppl are just as dumb. Moveing parts and fingers don't mix well while at the drag track one weekend I watched a guy loose the end of his finger,his budy was setting up the timing and was checking it with a timming light,when buddy said "what's that" and put his finger into the rotor

Way way way to nice sacha what did the dick think he could put up 1 post and magicaly we could tell him whats wrong. I don't even understand what he found wrong ,not that I care now after that last post.

Slow and steady is the best way to go. as long as it's gettin done right how long it takes is irrelevant The fork seals will pop out quite easy with a long pry bar after poping out the circlip. Keep at it and good luck.

You lucky SOB's free bikes wtf next is it going to start raining money to fix them. Nice bike for free and won't cost much to get road worthy used forks,new tires, new fluids thoes bikes weren't hard on clutches so if it's not broke why fix it?Like the brake hoses don't have to be replaced they work,, cdi must be fine it started,calpiers dont leak so why put seals in just flush the system, if the chain and sprockes are still ok use them untill the need to be replaced.same with the brake pads and discs the rear 1 prob isn't warped your just looking at the rust I would take sand paper and clean it up first. Realy short of the forks,carbs needing cleaning and the tires being 7 yrs old the bike just needs alot of polishing.Even the seat isn't ripped.Quite a deal for free shame about droping the clocks. Jus a thought how much would that new fugly farring fech ,me I would sell it for $$$ to buy the parts needed and have her on the road in a week, and replace the" want "things as money alows. But as winter is just around the corner 6months of cleaning and painting she will be a beauty.

If your running a wiseco piston did you drill the 1/32 holes in the piston as per the instructions to allow extra lubeing of the cylinder? Also a problem I have seen is the wrist pin hole in the piston is too small and the lube can't get in under high temps.Is the wrist pin totaly free to move? As Cynic pointed out the wrist pin area should be of least contact with the cylinder wall hence my thinking poor bore job, you have it appart anyway so have the bore checked with a bore gauge to be cretian that its got the proper clearence. All the lube in the world won't help if it can't get to where it's needed.

Clicking could also be the return spring for the kick start was not installed properly and the gear is catching causing the bad starting/broken teeth porblem

Sorry gents first thing I would do is check the bore sounds like a oval bore to me,, wrong clamps/ torque plates used when boring. Not saying the guy dosen't know what he's doing but s happens. The gas issue is normal now dam crap only last 30 days if your lucky, finding that if you run a gas that starts with s and ends in hell it's worse for varnishing,,just got back to riding my wr after 3 week's of no ride'n and had to clean the carb,that i just cleaned a month ago for the sake of it, and yellow varnish in the bowl even after draining it before parking it in the garrage. Guess I didn't drain all of it out

Hi jon63 take a min and pop over to the new members section and intro yourself. And just wait for the flood of resopnce about the ybr's seems to be a fairly popular bike among the members.

Nice job so far it's going to look alot newer with the later model fenders and all fresh painted . As your doing the motor top to bottom any plans for a porting job?

There are many ways to prep the frame lead fill it,file and sand it smooth, mig or tig weld it up and file and sand, personaly I wolud get a brazing rod and fill the grinding marks then file and sand the filler smooth, it's fairley soft to work with and sticks very well. Also because it is soft it will take the #'s quite easly. Last is to just file and sand it down though I don't like the thought of making the neck of the bike any thinner Good luck with this nightmare of getting your bike back on the road

Hi Steve the only thing I can tell you is that the HID lights run very hot and melt plastic head lamps. GE and sylvania make a super white light that are @ 50% brighter and don't melt plastic lamps.