dt502001

If you have a vaccum pump put it on the tank valve and check your fuel flow possibly the diaphram is gone bad. To check your vaccume while running you can put a vac T in line and hook up a vac gauge to it.

If you have been charging you battery at 87 amp you have fried it The recomended rate is 1.5 amps for 5-10 hrs or fast charge 5 amp for 1 hr.

It was a good idea to get some 2nd opinions about this BUT as Air head said don't mess around with it just return the bike for repair,this may have been a ongoing problem for the last owner and they decided to get rid of the bike. What brand of chain did they replace the orignal with? it might just be a cheap chain the dealer put on to keep his cost down,even if you have to chip in a few $$ get the best chain personaly I like DID. Good luck with getting it sorted out

Nev thats not nice but funny thier is no such thing as a red,yellow power band.DT85. the cost of paint ,primer and work is well out weighted by the low cost of new aftermarket plastic a complete set of plastic will run 150.00 canadian$$ with decals. Check out wwwdecalmx.com. ... or UFO plastics

Hi a we bit small of a bike for me but hey if you can't go super fast might as well look good LOL...STICKERS AND renthals all the way

Hi and welcome to the club,,Did you ask the busa driver what his 60 is in the dirt, or better yet what it's like in the 1/4 on loose gravel,, bet you can beat him in the 1/4 on gravel. If not at least spray the hell out him with rocks to the 60. and 1/8.

LMFAO drewpy thats one way to say try a intro first. Inxs 360 NO Intro No Info

If it's the orignal chain there is no split link,just take a grinder to it and cut it, the new chain will have a split link in the box.

as your bike has been sitting for awhile try spinning the fan a bit it might be seized up,wouldn't be the first 1 i have seen with a wee shove starts working again.

Nothing rocket science about it just remove the nut on the front sprocket before you remove the chain,this way you can use the rear brake to keep it from rotating.There is a lock tab you will have to bend back to remove the nut. As far as tools just a big enought socket and a long breaker bar or a impact driver.

Vista ,ie9, never seen it,,,,, logged/sined in automaticly ..No virus warning from mc afee or script warning.????? mabey you guys hit 1 to many porn sites and picked up somethingLOL

Intresting solution... at 15v output dose the battery tend to boil and need toping up often? I would think your battery would be getting over charged and shorten the life of the battery.

Hi Tony welcome to the mad house,your right the 850 didn't sell well here I have never ever seen someone riding one.The 90's were a real sport bike period for Canada ,enduro's were rare to see on the road. You might be 1 of ten who own a 850 it would be intresting to know how many actualy were sold in Canada.

oooo shiny bits together looking good!

ASSUME Makes a ASS u ME LOL I have got to agree manuals can be just a wee I---------------------------------------------------I bit vauge at times normaly when u need the most info.

Try rolling the wheel slowly and watch each link might be just 1 or 2 tight links in the chain causing the clicking.And put in 2nd and see if the noise goes away.

I would like to suggest you remove the light switch from the handle bar and see if it runs better. Possibly the wires are alowing some voltage to ground. also check the wireing as it travels through the bucket again possibl alowing volatage to ground The eng is grounded buy just simply being in contact with the frame as with the ign coil, stray volatage on th grounding side of the coil could be causing your problem. Also you never mentioned the state of your battery?

A yes I do forget about you stupid law.12 hp is a joke my riding lawn mowor make 18hp.

Hi Matt welcome to the nut house you won't have any trouble getting info and help for the project ,infact most anything you need to know is probably been covered before.But fire your ???'s away

Hmm that funny I have 215 220 225 jets increments of 5 .Going from a 210 to a 250 would be 8 jets sizes from stock ,,never in my life have I ever seen that big of a increase not even on a fully ported.060 motor. on race fuel. And I have been riding/racing and servicing 2t for 35 yrs. Bigger jets are only adding more fuel not oil with the pump as it will still only be pumping the same amount of oil . You don't need to pull the carb off to change jets just turn it in the rubbers to access the screws.

Yes the # stapmed is the jet size.The pilot jet is for closed throttle to @1/4 and verry small factor in the rest of the range. The air and pilot as well as different needle sizes and shapes are for fine tuning.For a different type of power delivery like a track wher your mostly in the midd throttle openings or rmp with realy short burst to high rpm you would jet it leaner or vise vers long track with realy high rpms most of the time =richer Jetting your bike in coolder temps will mean it will be rich when it warms up again Cold air is thiner with more o2.Ie: when I ice race i go up 1 size on the main and raise the needle 1 noch( normaly the cilp is on the 3 from bottom so it goes to 2nd from the bottom) then everything goes back for the summer. I would still suggets you put the stock pipe on to break in the new top end. But if your set on using the new pipe. Make sure you get all the melted alum out of it as well. Then jet big 2 or 3 sizes( normaly 1 is good for a pipe change) bigger and raise the needle 2 notches this will make your bike rich in all the ranges of throttle opening.And make it safe to do a plug chop Now you start working backwards slowly, after riding it and checking your plug colour but don't let the bike idle this will give you false readings. Start moving the cilp back to stock 1 clip at a time and checking the plug if you get back to stock and it's still rich .Then put in the next smaller down in main jet size and raise the needle again and start doing all the above over untill you get a nice brown plug at high rpms.When installing the float bowl bolts don't crank them down as hard as you can just tight or you will have a hell of a time getting them out again.Personaly I throw out the stock philips bolts and put in allen Also you should check your oil pump for proper adjustment and out put that massive melt down could have been the result of the pump not working properly. Also flush the oil tank and lines to make sure nothing is possibly blocking the oil from getting to the pump.The safe bet is to pre mix and forget about the pump

Cool ride welcome to the yoc

I guess everone was right on this one. lack of lube -- to small of ports over heating---lack of lube poor bore job-- lack of matching the piston port to clyinder to ports.

I know whats over heating right now Flyday he is going to be pissed at the daft bugger who got him the wrong piston. What type of piston is that nayruf? it's a beauty with the relife cut in for extra lubeing/weight saving.Just like most newer bikes use.

You need to get 100% of all the melted alum out of the bottom end before you put it back together or it will blow up again,best to pull the bottom end apart and fit new seals and have a realy good look at the bearings. No point in fitting a new top end on a weak crank,you might as well throw the money for new topend in the fire if you don't get it 100% clean.Not a fan of "the labour saving method" just cant be certian that its all out.And it's way more labour to start all over again if it does blow because of a piece left in. As far as jetting normaly 1 size up on the main jet from stock is all thats needed but your going to have to break in a new motor so fitting the old pipe to break in the motor is the safe way to go. Then after the motor is broken in then put the new pipe back on and start jetting up.It's going to involve doing alot of spark plug removal to get the jetting right,what you will be looking for is a nice brown plug there are so many ways to fine tune the jetting and as you self admit you don't know alot might be best left to a pro.