dt502001

Does the bike run any different if you try running on prime?

Hi welcome...what a scum bag to steal your battery

HAHAHAHA bet that never happened to the tow truck driver before

LMFAO if your thinking to fit that to that For less than 1000.00 and it will look not butchered your If the bike was free then restore it .......drive it ...and save for a bike. It will never go down in value it's to old .If it runs it's worth x $$ and always be worth at least that To realy get your time and $$ worth out of bulilding a bikeup ...do a bike you will keep Then instead of a bike your board with in a few months you will have a keeper.

Well xt/wr addick has left us so I guess we'll have to figure it out ourself LMFAO Just by the way the float works I don't think you can The float is in the side of the bowl so if you turn it then it won't be able to float. I take it that you are intending on making a manifold for this relocate Why not make it a single carb a big fat 43mm flat slide fully mechanical with a excellerator pump.Should get you more than enough flow to feed the 650,hardley's feed 1340 with a single. Does you carb have a tps? Just a note long intake's loose bottom end torque

Absoutly no need to join 2 cylinders for vac it won't help. And if your going to do it ...use pair cylinder's... not oposing. Ie: 1-4..-23 not 34-12 unlees your firing order is 34-12 But Ihave never seen a yam with that firing order.

Even if you knew the port height speck's that just say "the factory race team" used.. without a flow bench to test your mods you would never know if it made it worse or better. You can make one out of air tight wood box and a vaccuum and some sort of vac gauge /air flow meter if you like. But then you would have to test it in conjunction with your exhaust and carb set up and then it still could flow less.

Go for it reuse the old piston it didn't hit at 700rmp idle or 5000 rpm....... just as someone tryied to start it and it would have bent the valve immideatly so the piston was cold . You can sand out the marks in the piston so they don't creat hot spots Just make sure nothing get's under the rings. Put some gas in the intake side and see how much gas sepes out with it closed ,,Might as well lap it in and get a fresh seal,,speaking of seals might want to change the valve seal while you in there only a few $$ more. Ops get a new piston c cir clip you have to wait for the valve so get it as well you realy don't want to reuse the clip that holds the wrist pin in.

HAHA well some new info If you have to bump start it then it's time for a top end rebuild,new piston/rings and wirst pin and bearring, bore over. Whats the compression readings bet it's under 40.psi

Yep either the stator or kill switch can send you metter in to negs if they are shorted to ground. Check to ohms resistance on both.

It's more than likely it for exhaust scavenging removing it wil likely make the bike slower and less mid range power.

Ahhha dirt bikes and racing life is good with no limits ....ie :cops cars ect ...Some nice vintage equpitment being put to good use instead of sitting in a glass box Built to be ridden and they are

Yes and no the floats can ony hold back so much weight best to turn it to off when parked.

Don't take the cock off just put vac to the vac line on the cock and see if fuel will flow out in on or reserve. If not the diaphram needs to be replaced they are avaible from yamaha. As it stands you now have a on or off petcock so why change it you just dont have reserve.

Might need the carbs syncrozied you could have a lazy carb,not sure why it would work better hot ,other than a we bit more vac from a hot eng vs a cold eng. Just a thought are u sure the carbs a fully sealed after having them out 2x the old intake rubbers might not be sealing fully untill hot. Try spraying some wd-40 around the intake rubbers when cold.And see if the idle changes. Iwould def start with a new vac line first. You can get a sealer kit for the rust in the tank about 40 bucks.

The xt 125 has screw type of valve adjustment,so no shims to buy ....and a used valve will work if you can find one from you local wrecker.They migh have a wrecked head from a different bike with the same size valve, dosen't nessarly have to come from a xt but you have to know the size of yours. To get the valve out without a spring compressor so you can measure it,put a piece of wood under the head and a rag to keep the valve in place.Put a deep socket over the top of the valve and hit it hard with a hammer the 2 keepers will pop out if only 1 comes out hit it again. Or buy a new valve and a laping tool and laping compound Try Utube how to lap in a valve ther has to be a vid on it.It's not hard. You will need a valve spring compressor to get the valve in ,,, any local garage should be able to help with that.might even loan you a laping tool for 20 min to lap in the new valve turn the piston around if it didn't hit hard it should be reusable.

If you don't have torches or a heat gun to heat up the bolts go buy a MAP gas torch for 20 bucks from one of the big box hardwear stores.They look just like propane torch but the tank is yellow and MAP gas is hotter.If you have a propane torch it would work too Warm up the bracket around the bolts and then they will come out.Put a wet rag around the rubber bits. But if the bike has sat for ten years the brake master is probably full of crap and need to be flushed/cleaned to alow the fluid to travel back and alow the piston to return to rest position. Also take a few min and post a hello in the new members section it's only polite to say hi first before asking "HOW TO"

A simple swap is to put in a K&N air filter they flow@ 15-20% more air. Cv carbs can be a bitch to set up without the air box. Another though is why not try and biuld a ram air snorkel to force more air in the box?

Hi Dave welcome to the YOC..Start a project thread on the bobber

No/yes the small sipgot on the back petcock is for vacum not fuel,,all the fuel comes out of the same spigot weather it's in run prime or reserve. So your selector valve must not be opening in run or reserve this would be because the vaccum valve diaphram (the flat rubber with a spring) is not moving,,, get a syringe or just suck on the line and hook it up to the vac line and draw vac with the syringe if no fuel or little flows from the petcock in run or res than the diaphram has a leak or the hose is nfg. Run the bike in prim and pull the vac line off and see if you have vac commin to the valve the hose might not be sealing tight to the rubber intake manifold ,if you have enough hose cut off 1cm of the hose on both ends and reconect it if its not all cracked up,if so replace the vac line.If still no joy then replace the diaphram in the petcock In the prim pos it dosen't require vac the fuel is alowed to flow freely.. the vac is so you don't have to turn off the gas everytime you park the bike.So if the diaphram is not opening effectively you are shutting off the gas every time you switch to run pos. Hope you get it now.

You can put a 28mm flat slide on.I have heard that some have gone as big as 30mm But a carb is just a hunk of mettal with holes,try taking a hacksaw and cutting a new slot in the mixture screw, even if you have to cut part of the carb body it wont hurt.Then you can adjust it Have another look at the carb it must have sum crap in one of the passages or float height is wrong,make sure you blow every passage with compressed air and every one is clear.As it worked before and after so it will work again if you figure out whats not right. As for a rebuild kit why do you need one ?

Hmm mabey re tink this whole project just on a guess tis going to cost in wards of 2-3 k to do right hope .you realy love that bike

Tdc valves fully closed, with the head removed the valves shoudl fully close ,sounds like you have a bent ex valve .Does the piston have any marks from the ex valve hitting it? The pistion has relife cutouts for the valve and the in is smaller than the ex.. Did you do a compression test prior to removing the head?

Just a side note you don't have to replace them if they don't rip.I have reused them without leaks on many bikes over and over again.

Hi Ray welcome If your going to do resto's why not share them in the projects section always fun to see what others r doin.