dt502001

To get the dent out remove the petcock and seal with a blankin plate make a rubberstoper to fit in the filler hole fill with 20-30psi of air heat with torch around the dent working towards the center it will pop out perfect. u tube how to remove a dent from a exhaust pipe same principal. Just another food for thought,in the past I took a picture of the profile of the bike and traced out the basic shape of the bike then photo copied it a bunch of times. Then with the photo copy i could draw in,or remove what i wanted and get a feel/look at what I was thinking of doing.I think in the end it saved me time

Sounds like it's starving for fuel,try and fill a spray bottel with gas and spray into the carb as your reving it up.

Thats a good idea to park it before something goes realy bad but,you should pull the top end off so you know if you need to bore it before you buy a piston

Lots of different bike use tthe same res dosent have to come off a xt.

Well you have enough brakes to stop a 1200.The front end dosen't look bad ,the fender does,and what is the rubber thingy atached to the right fork?

Hi welcome with that old bike and so slow LOL 150 is prety dam good for a 125. Guess that makes air heads bike from the stone age.

WELL A BIG HELLO BACK AT YA LOL welcom to the YOC

If left to drag it's going to wear the friction plates.Try changing the oil first,if you can't get it to adjust with the cable ,it needs to be done 1 x a year at least so noting to loose if it dosent help.

Yep change the box oil out it's to thick for current temps,if that dosen't work then you need to replace the thrust washer or bearing on the end of the push rod.

CDi puter same

Try adjusting the cable first to the proper adjustment if no luck then change the oil.

30&87 feeds the pump on any relay 85 and 86 are controled by the cdi. When the ign is turned on the puter should ground(or it might be simply grounded to the frame) and feed 85-86 to prim the pump. Then when the puter sees rpm then it comands the relay to stay closed and constantly feed the pump.Relays raerly ever go and if they do it's because they are working to hard because of high amp drawn from the pump or bad ground. You can hook up the fuel pump and let it run for hours it won't do any dammage, pull the feed line off and check the volume of fuel per min should be something like 2 lts.The pump gets hot and then slowly drops in flow/pressure then the pump is shot. No I don't have a wiring dia for the bike but you need to check the ground side of the relay and the amp draw of the pump.I would check the plug at the puter ,seems to me that they are pron to the pins rotting out.

Sounds like the fuel has water in it more than the ethonal ,try buying you gas in a jerry can and let it sit for a couple of days and see if it seperates.Methol hydrate will attach it's self to the water ,but it's still thier dammaging your bike A old trick when the tanks had to be diped to measure how much gas had been sold during a shift,the attendent would pour 10 gallons of water in the main tank and pocket the cash. It got so bad at 1 station that cars would die a few blocks from the station and had to be towed the tank,lines drained and fresh gas put in . The owner of the station pumped the tanks and found that his fuel was less than 50% gas

Dan not sure where you live but best to check about the plate location and what lighting is required.As far as the fender just leave something that could be called a fender BOBER style. Here in CANADA and in the USA we get away with alot of mods that are streeeeeeeeeching the laws,but with so many custom bikes and so little cops who know sweet FA about a MTO as well we only have to mto a bike when regerstering to your name ,,after that were free to go nuts and do all kinds of crazy things. If yamhead were to drive his bike here at night he would get a fine for no light on his plate about 120.00 can.And no rear fender required if it's not raining.

Very intresting solution to a problem,we now have a GIO dealer and I think they sell the same or simalar V/R at way less than yam want's, I will give it a go on the next bike/sled/boat that needs one if whoever's bike it is will go for it.

Pull the exhaust off and have a look in only takes a few min and you will have a better Idea as to what is going on. If it's the top bearing and you keep running it..it will take the crank out with it in short order.

First did you try to run the bike on prime first? I still think your having a fuel problem. Don't adjust the mixture screws ..just the butterfly valve's..if they aren't pulling the same vac it's like having 1 or 2 carbs running at half untill the bike revs up enough to compensate for the vac loss to raise the slides. While the hose method isn't the most acurate way it will give you a idea as to how far off the carbs may be and for 5-8 bucks its a easy way to atleast get them close. As Cynic pointed out they must all be working together and the only way to tell is to check them all at once and adjust them as a set.Adjusting 1 will change the others as rpms will increase with each adjustment that get them closer to working together.

Hope this transfer over1st time trying to move a old post,but here is a home made carb sync tool video Ok it worked so have a look at some of the other videos after lots to watch and see how easy it is to make a tool for under 20 bucks

Tid =transistor ignition discharge vs Cdi capisitor... So im guessing thats the part # on the unit Search around in old workshop posts someone rebuilt thiers and gave quite a detailed post.I think it might even have been a 600 unit?

Hi mark welcome nice lookin bike

Noproblem Ray glad you have it sorted out now

Hi welcome to the YOC lots of goodies for the 1200 like a 1400 kit,cams, big carbs. Corbin makes nice bags. What ya lookin for?

Yep your at the mercy of the dealer,I don't know about your dealer but mine charges 10% more for 2 day shipping

Always glad to help