dt502001

Changing the brakes is a fairly straight foward job,as are the wheel bearings.Taking the wheels in for the tire to be changed will be way cheaper than taking in the whole bike.

just a quick ? did you zero the test leads on the mulitmeter before taking your readings,,,I have seen the test leads on the meter lie big time and you get false readings.Easly the diff your getting.

Nice job looks great Why not post some picts of the next one in progress

YEP the spring is hard to comperss but thier is no tool just strong arms.Put it in a vice with soft v clamps so you dont dammage the tube and push down. If you had loosened the allen bolt for the dampner before removing the top cap the pressure of the spring would have made it easy to break the bolt free.Put it back together and then loosen the bolt.

hmmmmmWell it's def running out of fuel As Air head mentioned check the intake rubber spray some wd-40 while it's running and see if it runs better. Also is your valve clearance in spec..002 -.004 thousand? Will the bike stay running if you keep the choke on? 1) check fuel flow from tank 2) check fuel folw through the float/needle seat remove bowl and let it flow also check float height.Might be to low and not filling the bowl enough. 3) check air filter try removing it. 4)turn a/f screw out untill it will Idle.But mark it so you can put it back if needed.

10-30 FOR TEMPS FROM-10C TO +35C 10-40 FROM -10C TO +45C SO AS YOU CAN SEE THEY BOTH COVER THE TEMP RANGE YOU RIDE IN .BUT THE 40W IS A HEAVIER OIL AND WILL ROB A VERY SMALL AMOUNT OF HP. SORRY ABOUT THE CAPS PUTER IS JAMED

lol Just cause it's new don't count on it being right best to have alook. Try turning up the idle and adjusting the a/f screw 1/4 of a turn at a time untill the idle gets higher by it's self then turn down the idle to the proper rpm.

LOL I had to read it 6 time to find the fn f's neat

Sounds like you need to clean the carb,make sure every jet hole is totaly clean. as the last owner couldn't get the piston in right don't count on the fact that they didn't mess with the carb. Turn the a/f mix screw in fully counting how many turns before you pull it out to clean,most are around 3 turns you may need to turn it out or in to get the bike to run without choke.But the carb has to be clean first. make note of the float height. the main needelclip should be in the middel ie 3rd notch from the bottom.Hope that helps

welcome nice bike

In one word turbo

If the new spark plugs don't do it then check the pickup coil,if it test ok then your cdi unit may have died.Your bike has 2 coils and the chance of both of them dieing at the same time is about 0.Ru getting any back fire or poping out the exhaust? If the bike was running and then just up and wouldn't start again thats the type of thing cdi units do. It will still spark just at the wrong time you can check it with a timeing light

Ru sure there is no power to the start button?Did you check for power with a multimeter or test light if so then by pass the clutch saftey,side stand switch and netural 1 at a time untill you get power. Is the turn signal relay flashing when the clutch is pulled in? or was that misstyped because it makes no sence?

Ok I can't directly answer your ? but if it's off a 125 and going on a 125 then no reason why It won't work. But here's your best bet for getting the right answer Go to new members section and post a hello ppl here are sticklers for that. Then one of the member who can pull up spec's might cross ref them for you.

All speedos lie by 10% Yep you need to sync your carbs classic example of carbs out of sync.

Yep permatex "the right stuff" part # 30874 amazing stuff never ever failed me yet makes any gasket in 1 minute set time.

As you have so much info to deal with now all I want to say is burn the shop that wants to charge you 600 for a starter and save the bike with all the info already given here. Yamis lazy about re desining new stuff normaly just a tweek here or there on the same part there has to be another starter that could fit or be made to fit by changing out the nose end. Just a ? how do you know the starter is pmf ..is it the word of this scaming shop? Did it work before you took it to them? If so then it's not fooked just they did something to screw it up and maybe we can work it out with some more info. If you hook up a booster cable from the + battery to the terminal on the starter does anything happen?You can do this on a bench with the starter off just hook up the - to the housing and battery and the + to the battery then touch the + to the terminal on the starter it will jump around so make sure it is held tight the starter that is. If you hit the start button does it even do anything? Is ther any power to the starter selnoid? So many ??? not sure where to start but if it worked before you took it to the bastereds then I am betting that its someting they did! Like sold your starter to someone else 3 months to rebuild a motor is WHACKED. And I want to help you fix it Phil

+1 on the reeds booysen reeds are great but short lived.

First try and say hello in the new members section. 2nd every gear or only 1 gear .....if only 1 bent shift fork...... if every gear then loose shifter. Will it power shift? ie; hold pressure on the shifter and blip the throttle off and back on? no clutch

+1 on the spark plug ,,but ididn't sugest to spray fuel in while ideling but to spray as you reving it up..to check that it wasn't a lack of fuel at higher rpms to eliminate the carb being the problem

From your post above it says the piston is forged,so the only ? is how much more wieght is or is not being added.As in the same post it states that the barrel will be replated,, so you have no bore over options.Just replace the ring yearly and if it get dammaged you have to replate the barrel. I am not sure if you stock barrel is nickelsil if it is than you have no over bore avilable now,, if it's dammaged then your looking at a new barrel or haveing it replated and that not cheap either way.

Ok this is not easy to put to words but here goes.1st the whole thing fits in with the fixed end fitting into the boss in the case,so the steel square on the shaft fits in the boss of the case, then wind the spring towards the back and fit it into the hole in the case just below the gasket at about 11 oclock. Hope that help mabey some one has a picture but if all else fails buy a manual

The only tool needed for the road is a cell phone and enough cash to sit in the pub and wait for a friend to pick you upLOL Seriously though I keep a bolt nut and washers to fix broken cables,the bolt has a hole drilled in it so you can feed the cable in and pinch it between the washers and a couple of spark plugs and a tire plug kit/co2 bottle. I have never needed the cable repair but it's got a few friends home

If done properly the comperssion ratio will stay the same with either the 150 or 170 kit.Thats why they want the head to reshape the squish area of the head.They most likely will chuck it in a lathe and remove whats nessary to keep the compression the same due to the flat top pistion, The compression ratio is caculated by the area left when the piston is at TDC.It's been quite a while since I have done it I would have to look up the exact formula but it something like swept volume-total volume.My budy has a ktm125 with a factory 135 kit and what a different bike it's is. It's not the compression that would kill the bottom end it's the added weight,if the pistion is forged vs the stock cast it might weigh the same that would be my? to ask the guy doing the work.

Looking good.... justa tip tape rags over the frame so when you put the eng in you don't scratch the paint.. BTW you can keep the snow all to yourselves, we've been blessed with some beauty weather18-20c won't last I know, but it's nice while it lasts. Wen't for a ride yesterday to look at a snow mobile with a freind and past ton's of others out riding.