dt502001

Wow she is prety good looking for her age,whats your plans for it just ride as is ? or full top to bottom restore? O ya put up a pict of that sweet lookin 650 in the back ground,theres talk of a calender and it's looking a contender to me.

No doing this shouldn't cause any problems,just do your plug chop once you have it running right don't wan't to end up too lean,possibly you just need to adjust the air screw if lowering it makes it too lean then move it back and play with the air screw1/8 of a turn at a time.

I'm with cynic try adjusting the needle, you don't need to pull the carb off to do it just rotate it in place to aloww the slide to be pulled out

First off glad your ok Grouch as Cynic said amazing how we all wory about our bike and not ourselfs. Ok you have them over a barel so to speak,they charged you and you paided for a service that wasn't done properly so if they even think about charging you just tell them you will have your lawyer contact them Reguarding you law suit for 1Lost time of use 2 pain and suffering. Who knows how this will effect your ability to ride mentaly. 3 anything anyone else can come up with? If I was in thier shoes I would be woried that the mto would be knocking on my door I would loose my licence for less or be looking at a fine of no less than 3000.00 possibly 20k and a suspension of my licence for 3-6 months. This is serious they could have killed you through incompetent work,if the wheel bearings were that bad that you wouldn't ride it, than they should have done the carrier bearing as well I know I would have. You worrie about doing things yourself because you might cock it up, well you couldn't have done any worse a job. I can realy now understand why you peeps over there are so negitave towards mechanics,if that is any indication of the type work they do

Trace the wire up to the ign switch looking for a spot rubed through contacting the frame, check head light and tail light,coil, stator ect ..wireing for rub through anything thats powered when key is on. something is grounding out on the feed circuit. How s the ign. switch not loose or worn ?

Hi ya Rick,looks a clean bike.

I bought a 86 fz 600 had a cheap kenda rear tire fitted for mto by previ owner,first day I had the bike I found out what flat tracking on pavment was like SCARY when your not expecting it,luckly ther were no on comming cars as i was using the whole road.Went straight to the tire shop and changed it out for a metzler.Them cheap tires are responsible for more crashes,they should have warning labels"DO NOT TRY TO TURN STRAIGHT LINE USE ONLY" or better yet not for road use ,only show.

Well did they atleast give you a Idea as to when they might be graious enough to possibly finnish it?

What is taking so long,are they chewing leather to make the seals.Kinda rediculis months to do that little bit of work,you could have shiped it here via a donky cart and I could have done it and sent it back with a snail pulling the cart faster. Including the snail being stoped at the boader to be checked for possibly being a terriost or ilegal immagrant and the DND seizing the motor for possibly being a bomb. Whats needed for the seat,foam and cover or more pan repairs?

Good to hear your going to give it a go, take a pict of you doin it,not the doll, the forks That was a great vid beef found couldn't get more info than that.

Hi Elliot A Dt 125 hmmm won't find anyone riding one of them here,,, lol ask away anything you need to know the members here can tell you. Air head put a page about de restricting them and nev.... well lets just say I 'm not sure he knows there are other bikes. Got any experience in fixen things?

Crank is in need of repair now o well good you have the other motor from Dave. How's it going?

You bet you did! Old motor ?

Na do it yourself it's a straight foward job,if in fact it needs to be done. I'm thinking it's the oil if it started after the oil change.So thats the first thing I would do. But if you want to check the plates thickness or just change it for the sake of knowing it's new. you can lean the bike to the left side and not drop the oil. Remove the cover Remove the 5or6 springs this will alow the pressure plate to be removed note its position relatede to the basket Caution don't loose the ball bearing on the end of the push/release rod in the center when removing. Remove the fiber and steel plates 1 at a time noting how each steel plate is possibly positioned different ie 12oclock 6 ,3,9,ect also the steel plates outer edge have a rounded edge side and a sharp edge side sharp edge goes in. Measure the free length of the springs and thicknees of fiber plates,check the steel for warpage( i use a plate of glass) Sorry I don't have specs for minum thickness of the fibers or spring length. Check the outer basket fingers for notching where the fibers engauge. Check the gear on the back of the basket,no free play. Check the roller bearing thrust washer and washer in the center of presure plate (known for failing)possibly all that is wrong. Install new plates ,pressuer plate,springs ect. If you pressure plate has a adjusting screw and lock nut in the center,remove the cable,loosen the lock nut back the screw out ,then turn in untill it seats against the push rod back out 1/8 of a turn and lock nut down. Install cable and adjust slack untill you have minimal free play at the lever. New gasket and cover DONE. EBC and barnett make good clutches

+1 I didn't say you need a clutch,besides you need to know how to set it up properly,, even with new clutch set up wrong it will slip. don't jump to conclusions. and they are way different than a car clutch single plate system, it's a multi plate (probably 6 steel and 6 fiber) and the pressure plate has to be set,unlike a car.

Ok here is the problem with crimp connectors,the voltage/amp flow is droped /restricted when installed, your only connecting the outer wires and the crimp creats a resistance that wouldn't normaly be there so no matter how you seal it, it's still wrong. Now that said.. any way of sealing it moisture tight is better but still wrong, ugly, tape over time will seperate and allow moisture in, good for a quick fix but not permenant ..any wireing problems should be fixed as close to original as possible to ensure that thier is no extra resistance on the system that in time will cause other components to fail on that circut due to over loading /back feeding of the circut.

Finaly some good news for you glad we could help

I don/t know the laws there but I think your gona have to pay ,post a proper intro about yourself and the rest of the people here might have some other solution. I would be looking for a used 1 before paying that good luck

Well its going to wear your clutch out faster and as the same oil feeds the rest of the eng,rings piston cams ect the debree from the clutch will be wearing at that as well. It's going to blue up your steel plates so when you do have to replace the clutch it's going to cost more as you will need to replace the steel plates,instead of just the fiber plates. Oil while not exactly cheap it's cheaper than a rebuild,I would drop it and go wilth a thiner oil,save the clutch for as long as possible and the rest of the eng. If you have a lawn mower use the old in it,it will love it and the mower will last way longer with that high grade oil in it. Or put it in a oiling can and use it for what ever. Also if the thinnner oil dosen't fix it then you know it's just about time for a clutch better to know now than down the road away from home and be stuck with a slippin clutch to nurse home

Please remove the crimp connectors and solider it , for your own good,,,,them dam things are crap who ever invented them shoud be kicked in the balls,the weather will get under even with tape and you will be back to square 1 the wires will rot green death. Use shrink tube to seal it after solidering it.

Ok Grouch Time to man up..... either ask for help and try,or forget it all .... this is not beyond anyone with a little time..and didn't you say you were going to put some time aside from now on. The bottom bolt ( allen that seperates the top leg from the bottom ) should be loosened first if it won't then you will need a impact gun. On your bike you don't even need to pull the front wheel off to find this out as your bike has a leeding axel ,so clean the crap out of the bottom so the mmm 8mm allen socket will fit in snug ,give it a firm whack if it turns then all is good. the rest has been explanied.

As long as you can move the lever without moving the cable you have free play,you don't need alot of free play but it has to allow the clutch to fully engauge. From what I understand its been a bit colder this year over there, oil thickens when cold so might just be cold enough to warent thinner oil or just let it warm up longer to thin out the oil. Hope that clears it up.

um suprised you got any help after what you said to dirty dt .. calling his mother a hampster ect and he locked your earlier post.you don't mind throwing it around ,but sure are sensitive.

Thats better than the DIP SHIT OF THE WEEK lol With my luck that would be a waste of a dollar

You could try droping it into a clean bucket,so you can re use it and put in 10-30 ,if that dosen't fix it then you might be looking at a clutch job. also are you sure you have free play in the cable