dt502001

Dead post,but I WONDER did he do it himself and die

Congradulations Paul,some extra x mass gift cash, suck it up tommy cant win em all,, just kidding but had you won again I would have said it's fixed

LMAO I ment spine protection,1 missing letter changes everything though dosen't it. Where you been we haven't heard from you in a while,I would have thought you would have a pict or 2 of some off roading by now

Been 2 months any progress,you get permanent heat in the garrage?

haha merv I just got that one and was about to post it as well

Its a tracking device and should be registered with DATA TAG used car lots install them so if you dont pay your monthly bill they can shut down the vehicle remotely and find it. Easy enough to remove ,most likely they just interuped the ign feed and you will have to put it back to stock.

read the thread about steering steering Started by parkersfinest, Today, 04:07 AM with how slow you were going I think this apply's to you as well. About the signal keep looking any signal that is sold by the dealer can be had aftermarket at a fraction of the cost. The dealer will charge more for the lens than the complet unit you found no doubt,most likely you could put 4 new on for the cost of 1 new factory.the ones in the firt pict look r6ish to me try looking up signals for different bikes. here a few thousand to pick fromhttp://www.bing.com/images/search?q=motorcycle+turn+signal+lights&qpvt=motorcycle+turn+signal+lights&FORM=IGRE

I still dont get why anyone would want a hoped up xt 125 no matter what you do to it, it still will be slow and the more you do to it the less reliable it will be and the less anyone will want to buy it after your done thrashing it,for the cash your talking about spending you could pick up a fz 600 and fix it up and blow away any 125. Or trade it for a 2t 125dt and be faster without doing anything. But as you said you dont care about the cash so spend away and post it,, maybe it will stop all the dreamers nonsence about hoping up a xt125,ybr125 when they see how little you gained and how much it cost vs buying a bigger bike. If you want it to accelerate faster just change out the sprockets, simple easy and the most to be gained from a xt 125.

LOL funny how women can spray poop purie all around and think it smells good,,, but a wee bit of paint fuems and they go off some gas fuems and paint smell better to me,throw in some penetrating/degreaser fluid fuems and I'm at home wood stove burning hot with some deer steaks on and I'm in heaven Well if any nutters show up on thier bikes get some picts,its supposed to snow for the next 3 days average high -9 low -14c hwy 3 will be a skateing rink at best.

Smart ass ,but spell it anyway you want you know what i meant..............hp to weight is always a factor ,,,,,,,,,what you plan on hanging on it ,,, a truck.?. 2m of steel weighs alot compared to aloy,,,, cost might be more but by the time you add in chorming vs pollishing its cheaper You mentioned how the bolts and bit put lauras hard work down ,IMO chrom paint will do the same for your bike,rattel can sh1t............ IS CHEAP AND LOOKS CHEAP zink,nickel or copper plating would look better and last longer,painted black would even look better than rattel chrome.

Unless your chasing other problems than the dash lights removing the grounds wont help at all,the blowing of the fuse is caused by the circut pulling too much power.Re read what we have told you and do it if you want to find the problem. Extra grounds could be for assesories ie heated grips,if you dont know what they are for then trace them back to where they go befor disconnecting them

If you can weld then fix that ugly exhaust hanger,just looks wrong,a smaller piece of flat bar welded or ali wraped and bolted as you've removed the passenger pegs then it only has to hold up the pipe so light and small will do and look more custom than choped IMO Did you get the tail piece yet so we can get a sneek peek at what your going for. Looks like friday will be a wash for dover,last friday would have worked but with the ammount of snow we got in the last day and -13 + Wind chill I think I'll stick to driving the truck or sled for the next few months+ your bike dosent look like its going anywhere soon.

haha yes i meant a drive chain for the sissy bar.But how about insted of twisted steel use aluminum and pollish it not quite chrome but with a good polish it would be close and better than paint

so you have a bad power wire grounded out befor the dash

Ok then as Slice said check the out put,but before you do that just put a new fuse in and turn the key on for 10 min if it blows then look at the wireing harness Edit if the voltage reg was over charging you should have blown head light and tail ight as well

Thanks Sniff I have been wondering what this SORN was all about,we dont have it so everytime someone would mention it I was confused. I think our system is simpler the plates/vehicle dont get registered to just the vehicle or owner they get registered to both and you can only get plates from the gov/mot,road tax get paid every time you buy gas,insurance is caculated by milage pre year renewual,and if caught without insurance,driver points and vehicle impoundment at 100 per day for 30 days+ 5k fine so as you can see it cost about 8k to get caught even if you dont get in a accident ,get in one and kiss your life good bye you will be paying for the rest of it. The gov will take it right off your pay cheque before you get it.

If fuses keep blowing then the postive feed is grounded befor the lights,you need to look at the wireing and find where it is rubed through or possibly the key switch is bad ,,most likely it a rubed wire though. Edit if the bulbs have all blown then check the grounding circut of the dash.

if by crome spray you mean paint in a rattle can dont waste your money,i ve seen the profesional done stuff and looks just like the real thing but it dose wear like paint. Welding a chain is hard the only way I found to keep it straight was to nail it to a board streched tight with a turn buckel and to keep tighting it after each weld,you can do it bud dont give up .O ya just had a thought havent seen anyone using a old drive chain in a while has to be lots to be had for free from a local shop,as your working in a shop does anyone tig weld there?

Ok so stop teasing us with naked picts,how about one with her clothed

Not sure about your army .but the guys here can get stuff shipped if a truck is going by and not full realy cheap

You realy want head aches buy a trail blazer v6 the first thing you will need to do is the intake gaskets,head gaskets,then the evap purge selonoid in the gas tank as they all go bad,then the front wheel bearing,pit man arm and idler arm and ball joints, tie rod ends you can count on them being ducked every 40k miles.All chevs are bad for the pass lock going south and then you have to replace the key and pass lock together and reprogram it NO puter need to do it but takes 20 min for it to relearn and if you get it wrong then you have to start all over.Fuel pumps last about 90k and the fuel gauges are rarley accurate most show 1/8 of a tank and are empty.The rear brakes backing plat that holds the ebrake will be rotten(made from tin foil).ABS units last about 150k then the dump selonoid likes to stop working.The AC compressors only last about 100k and then eat the piston rings contaminating the whole system. Dont get me wrong I LOVE chevs,and any thing the general builds keeps my bank account toped up.

Drill sound is the starter not engauging the bendex,you wont have spark unless the motor is actualy turning over. DID you rember to hook up the ground/earth from battery to motor after ploishing in there.After you got the battery charged and checked all conections then get back we'll get you running again,but its someting simple if you look hard enough I'm sure you will find it. Kill switch on,netural wire(blue) hooked up, side stand switch hooked up coil pluged in Have to agree with Noise the rusty carb clamps and bolts pull down all you nice work,can't waite to see the piant in the sun not my colour choice but I like it ,might grow on me when I can see it change colours if you can get it on film er aaa digital haaha.

Yo Noise . This will drive you nuts,you thought getting the pattern was hard,try keeping the offset correct and making the whole thing straight.tapping the spoke and listing to the sound is the trick when tight they will ring too loose and they THUD. Home made trueing stand out of 2x4 lumber with metal base to mount dial indicator... Ok maybe not was going to post a pict but not working. Basicaly it 2 up right boards V'd to hold axel with 2 to horzontial at the base and a block between the base to widen it,2 more horizontal mid way between the axel and base with a plate of steel on each to mount your magnetic base for the dial indicator.Below the base I drilled holes to hold 2 bolts nutted on eithe side of the board so you can slowly turn them in as you get the wheel straighterBefor you even get to the dial indicator stage Tip: when you get close to true only turn the niples 1/16 or less every thing you do to one side of the rim affects the other side oppsit and 180,,, after getting it all perfect you should recheck the spokes after first ride you will find some that dont ring when tapped with spoke wrench and will need a bit of a turn.And blue locktight on the nipples Take you time and walk away when you get frustrated it will all come true. I found this article for all who attempt this and might help you now Noise a bit late but o wellhttp://www.dansmc.com/spokewheels.htm

dude

Does the netural light work?