dt502001

Ok you set the idle wrong then if you set it with the choke on,,Idle shoud be set with the choke off so I was right you have the slde up way to high. Start bike,,warm up turn choke off and lower the slide to obtain idle speed.This also may requier adjustment to the air/pilot screw edit also check the idle screw is it round or does it have a flat spot worn into it? Re edit as blackhat said you need to loosen the cable to alow the slide to drop when adjusting the idle so loosen the cable and re adjust after idle is finnaly set.your pluged choke circuit is why your bike wouldn't start before.Now it will if you set it all correct.

Drew the valve cover wont fit on if they are on wrong.And the off set of the bolt hole would be hitting the sprocket mount if on the other way around. Clean the assembly lube off to measure them Now did the feller gauge just slide in ? to get these measurments? what is the bigest feeler gauge you can get in all of them or are these measurment the bigest you could fit in,the feeler gauge should have resistance not just slide in easy. Ok you get to play with you mic now and caulator ,you know how muck thinner you need for shims on each so go for loose on the setting as valve will tighten up over time not get looser. all yours are now tight from re grinding the valves so hopefully you have some thinner ones they come in different thicknesses by .002 so you can mix and match them.example you might be able to take 1 from exhaust to fit in the intake and vise vs. HAHAHA you will be a pro at R&R cams and timming them

Fucking fantastic job drew that looks better than new .The red pipeing on the seat realy blends in now its all together didnt care for it at first. The bike has a 1930's board tracker look just take the front fender off and some low bars I'm not saying to do that just I can picture it.,the speedo tucked in the headlight realy cleans up the front.

Ok before you go ripping anything appart check the crank seal left for leaks,check the intake for leaks . The oil comming from the pipe might be normal if the pipe is old and never been de coked ,,baffel packing old and saturated with old 2t oil,and milky tranny oil does not always mean a water pump seal condensation form's in the cases everytime the bike is left to cool down after riding and over time it will mix with the oil. Have you been having to top up the coolant? Is the gear box oil level high? Its a 5 dollar seal and easy to change and worth doing even if it isn't leaking. But lets just sort out the running problem first OK?

Did you try and adjust the slide height once warm via the idle adjustment screw[the large1 on the oppsit side of the picture above]? If so did the idle drop at all when turning the screw out? If not then I would think the seals in the choke plunger are shot and not sealing it closed. I still cant wrap my head around this though makes no sence how turning the choke off would increas the rpms,even if the seal were shot it would still drop rpms,,unless you have the slide set so high that even full choke can't kill it and once the choke is turned off it is running at the right mix and the slide is too high to let it idle.

Internet fixing at it worst ,total break down in communication............------------.........-----------

Now you have a air leak somewhere possible causes carb not tight ,reed valve not sealed,intake cracked, left crank seal. edit Or what blackhat said just read it.

Way off the dots should be as I said above the first and last on the chain 19 pins appart,put the exhauts cam right then set the intake so it can rotate back 1 tooth so when you put the tensionre in it rotates it into positoin

No dont worry about what they look like just find the dots on the sprockets and as long as they are the last one in the chain intake and firt one on exhaust and it at tdc the you got it right.

marker the dots on the cam sprockets I cant see the intake you have 19 pins from sprocket to sprocket so that's right and if you rotate the motort to line up at tdc then the dots on each sprocket are 19 pins appart then its right. I thinkk I can see the exhaust dot but not sure

Ya it better to have it out of time as you have it then let the tensioner pull into time.It's your first time so it might take a few shots at it just keep rolling the motor over and checking till you get it right.

And replace the seal and washer

Where are the dots on the cam sprockets and the noches on the end of the cam?

No the can tensioner will pull it back and take the slack outa the chain in center of the cams

Wait the screw is missing the seal and washer,,what about the spring without it the mixture secrw can vibrate out and mess with you mix. Edit check the amount of turn it's at now vs what you set it at.

Ok how the spark?

The black bit is to save the cases from the chain when it comes off and keep the chain in line when the chain loose.So it did it's job!! You would have had less dammage if the chain had broke.Should have checked the chain tension before that ride it goin to cost you now. For 5 min of work before the ride you could have save yourself a day worth of work. The clicking noise is most likely part #6https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/special-pages/model.aspx?brand=4&type=13&year=352716&model=352761&part=352789 is bent or the clip on here https://www.motorcyc...spx?pagesize=20 #7 is bent. From the shock of sudden stop something had to give. The bottem end isn't hard just need the puller for the flywheel/mag and snap ring pliers.It's a bit fiddely to get the tranny all back in as it all goes in at the same time ,shift forks shaft input and output shaft. Someone here just did it not so long ago and posted alot of pictuers of the tranny and how they used rubber bands to help install the tranny Thing is once in there you might as well do the bearings and seals and then it starts to add up quick.

Ok not a big deal that the cam is out happens when the tensioner takes up the slack in the chain rotates the intake back. But you can check the valves befor you pull the cam you might need to pull it to re shim so check it now. Rotate the cam so it's 180 from opening (lobe up off the bucket) check the clearence.You can also check the clearence just after the round of the bottom of the cam comes to the flat some cams are tighter there.

Live and learn next time you say you've cleaned the carb you will be able to say "you cleaned the carb" not just blew some cleaner around and can see why it so important to fully clean the carb. also good you have a sence of humor and could see where I was going with why you were having trouble figuering this out.

Well done , Remember back when this started I said I would come down and help you put it together in a day,well now you know how it's done BUT NOW you get the honnor of saying " I rebuilt this top end myself" and in the end you learned way more and have all the tools to do it again. Don't forget to roll the eng over by hand 4x and recheck you timming marks,with the cam ternsioner in of course.Easier to do if you pull the sparkies.Remember when I told you the noches in the end of the cam line up with the head check it,though It looks right to mee the exhaust cam on#1 is 90 deg. from opening and the intake ( though hard to see) is off the valve by 90 deg. Clean any assembly lube off the cam lobes to measure the clearence.Then re lube One of the best parts of this build is you have vertualy no breakin period just warm it up let it cool down recheck the head bolts and the little one in the front that goes up,warm it up again and drop the oil.The only part yo are realy breaking in is the hone.

Up to you but for the very few times your going to use it in your life I would just go the way drewps and I suggested with a c/g clamp and socket work just about as well

Ok your making this difficult you have to many different post about this running problem. Copy and past them all into 1 thread to follow and keep it as 1,trying to follow and narrow down the problem the way you jump around is like a retard in a room full of bouncey balls,oo look there's one oh a blue one no a red one, I like yellow??? Not saying your a retard but to fix a problem of any kind you need a methodic way of eliminating the varriables and come to a finnal conclusion.First you were on about reeds and now your jumping at straws about a leak in the top of the carb

CTC sell this http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/valve-spring-compressor-0256191p.html but its a POS and hard to work with but for 15 bucks it should get your small job done. Option 2 is to buy a deep C clamp and cut/grind a slot in the side of a piece of pipe or socket ( can buy another one while your there just find the size you need 18-19 mm first) easier to work with ,still not as easy as a proper tool like thishttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Valve-Spring-Compressor-C-Clamp-Service-Kit-Auto-Motorcycle-ATV-Small-Engine/231136540055?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D163%26meid%3D4296594509461302659%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D350902854753%26 But alot cheaper and you can do it today and have a c clamp for other things. Option 3 take it over to the machine shop and get them to pop them in for you, for the small fee they will charge it might be the easiest way and you get to know them better.

Hey Ryan told you the seals were easy,looks good just give em a good cleaning up I can se some small particales in the bucket area. Put a rag under the valve's as you go to keep them up while you compress the spring to get the keepers in. For the reassembly have every gasket surface/part cleaned up and ready to go before you start.And whipe down all mating surfaces with some rubbing alcohol Fitting the pistons will be the hardest part,trying to get the rings to compress into the bore of the cylinder. I would suggest you try and put a old set of pistons and rings in a old cylinder first so you get a idea as to what your up against.Having some popsicle stick makes it a bit easier to push the ring into the piston as you slide them in but the new rings will be a bit harder. When installing the oil control rings the wavey 1 goes in first then the 2 small ones and seperate the end gaps of them so none of the end gaps of the rings line up. I prefeer to do the 2 center pistons first then the outer 2. Cutting piece's of wood like a horse shoe to fit under the pistons to keep them from floping around while you lower the block into place help too

Then you havent cleaned the carb properly and the choke circut is pluged