dt502001

PS you have to un plug and feed power and ground to the fan dosent matter wich way you hook it up it just might turn the wrong way but you will know if it works

If it dosent blow the fuse then your ground is bad,or the power feed wire is rubed through to ground on the frame some where if the fuse keeps blowing. You can also jump the temp sensor for fan control and the fan should run constant

O ya put a fuse of the right amp in line

Blown fuses generaly means the device on the other end is knackered and pulling to many amps you can un plug the fan and feed it 12v direct to check it.

Check to see if anything is jammed in the fan,and that it turns freely.

Sad story may he rest in peace

Then I would question the condition of the case,not to mention the condition of the con rod bearing. Kinda hard to tell how good the big end bearing and center pin is without pressing the crank appart. Spen the money now and do it right or throw the dice and do it again when the big end bearing seizes.

Once you have the bearing off the crank may need repair / cleaning up.Possibly re trueing if the bearing got that hot then the center pin of the crank may be dammaged as well. I would guess it did not come appart easy and you may have dammaged the crank in the process A new crank/con rod and bearings might be the cheaper way to go.

This is the type of kit you would need nowhttp://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Pullers-And-Bearing/Bearing-Separator-and-Puller-Set/8160483.p Just to get the bearings off and some way of heating then no doubt.

That the way I read it that the bearing froze to the crank,and beating beating bearings into place with a hammer is just wrong,using a press is the right way.

Pull the nut off the flywheel and check the key hasent spun.

Could one of the mods please move this to workshop where it should be .

That was so hard to read barely made sence,tap talk is crap. But it sounds like you have a vaccume leak try spraying some wd 40 around the intake rubbers and see what happen with the idle when its hot. Again choke when cold,once warm no

HAHA they are simple just you need alot of tools to pull the bearings and install them properly.And if you do it wrong then you wasted your money and time. You need a bearing puller and a press to install them most shops wont charge you much to R&R them then you can do the rest yourself

Well the first things to check are air filter,gas fresh or stale,good fuel flow from tank,and grab yourself a manual it will come in handy as your new to fixing. How long has the bike sat? a carb clean and set up could be in order if she has sat around and the gas went south. Bike only need choke when cold once warmed up shouldn't need choke ever. will it idle at all? you going to have to be more informative as to how when it does this. As there is many things that could be causing this problem IE leaking intake rubbers,valves not adjusted properly,dirty carbs,timming out ect.. The more information you can give then the more we can help you try and sort it out.

Welcome ,well at least we know that you dont know what your doing but keep all your workshop questions in 1 thread then people can try and help. What part of the world you from?

By the time you buy the tools needed your just better off to pay someone,then they wont mess up your crank like you might.

Jump over to the new members section tell the folks about yourself and what you know about bikes,till you do fraid you probably wont get much help. Drewps knows just about everything about xs400's,but we get lots of 1 hit wonders and people cant be bothered with them.

Well what did you expect from a 50 ?to cruise around in 4th LOL well its been quite the job you have pulled off why I am still wondering but your happy so enjoy the little toy.

Hi welcome to the nut house,,,did you say race track pictures please do share.

Well just thinking about the way a coil works,primary builds and then collapes onto the secondary,in my mind I can't see why the secondary would matter,The voltage has been cut to the coil during that split second and the cap is charging anyway. So as long as the primary is not resisting the charge from the system then I would think all would be fine.

Just keep praticeing it will get easier,I have a friend and he is a fly weight at100lbs and he can get his 1100 up on the stand. Do as people here have said but try to do it in 1 smooth motion.There will come a day when you have no choice but to use the center stand.It's not strength or weight,you shouldn't be using your back so much as your leg does most of the work . Nayruf has a good point about extending the lift arm but once you master the way to do it ,it is easy,for now just get a length of old used pipe and slip it over the lever then practice once you get the hang of it you will be able to do it without the pipe. You can't take your padoc stand with you,spend a day doing it and you will get it.

I was going to have a shower,and the pipes weren't hot should I turn the hot water on? How about a hello and who you are ,,what end of a wrench you know?

Most older zuks are screw type not much messing with shims. Dose this mean you taking up camping Slice?

it looks alot like a old 77 /80 yz motorcross motor to me. Try cross referencing the crank/ trany parts.