dt502001

LOL weding ring is the part that fit so tight to the shaft you cant get it off..but you haven't yet to experience that yet Foams.

Kev your a dirty bugger but yes I do remember them and ROTFLMAO once this new kid in my 8th class fell for the smell my finger trick. " i just did her want a smell of what manhood smells like" well needless to say we all laughed our ass's off. Its a age thing I guess, at 13 if we had the stuff we can get now,and my right arm would be 3x bigger. Just wondering Foams have you ever tried fuckbook just like face book but for what your realy looking for.

NP dude I dont throw complements around lightly and will be the first to say That looks like crap what were you thinking? if someone builds something that looks like crap. Like thoes street fighters with the tail pointing up like they fliped the bike and cant straighten the frame But you realy got it right the light tucks in nice under the top cowel,the pannels flow up to it nice,even the stock curves seem to look as if they were suposed to be going up to the tail.The way you cut it,, it follows the frame blends in nice with the tank( well that was alway like that) but the way you left the top rear of the stock pannels on the same angle of the plate holder just??? well looks right. Even the top cowel hanging ove the side pannels a bit looks good,I think I would have been tempted to section part of it and have it fit even but it looks right the way it is. You should be very proud of what you have done in the course of a few months,anytime you need help just call/text me .. Its been a joy watching you learn and create your own bike. And I like the new leds now they are sigs as well,you will have to send me a link to where you get them I think they might find there way into the farring of the B if I can find some to fill the stock holes. Ye ha the guy with my door seals is here............................................O yes now I can finnish the jeep,like a kid at xmass I'll send you a text pictuer later with the new rims/tires on looks much tuffer

Slide be round part that moves up and down with the cable if in backwards then it dosent close=too much air to start.Pop the carb back off and make sure it goes all the way to the bottom.

Man the more I look at it you hit the nail right on the head... looks 2014 the way it flows.Before it looked more like "I crashed my bike and fitted this" now it looks like" I got board with the look and did this" I bet it will get copied someone will see it and go yep I gotta do that to my bike.I know you saw it and did it but yours looks better than the insperation bike.

Fuckin eh now that looks finnished I wouldn't change that for a r6 rear it's 1 off and looks great,even better than I though trimed pannels would look.Job well done Ryan

LMAO it's a 50 with a fat ass on it what do you expect from 5 hp.. If it runs and you can get it around the farm just beat it it's just a piss ant 50 EDIT even if you weighed 100lbs you would still be fat to the bike.

Ok so I know alot of people have trouble getting the lats ring off of a bearing off of a crank or shaft of any kind, You have used the proper tool and.... bang the old bearing comes appart,and your left with the wedding ring still stuck on the shaft. So now how do you get it off?? grind it going to end up cutting into the shaft. heat it and press it off NOPE going to change the temperment of the metal and I dont have a big press It's so simple I forgot to tell anyone and had to do it today so thought why not share. First you have to set up the thing you need to get the ring off of and be able to smack the shit out of it once,with a chisel and hammer so make sure wherever you do this make sure it wont move. A vice would be a good thing to hold it. SO HOW EVER YOU DO THIS PART DO IT RIGHT DON"T BLAME ME IF IT SMACKS YOU" Now you have it held tight and not goig to jump around, Heat just in one top spot of the wedding ring till red hot( propane/map gas with right tip or Ox torch works best) Now if you can brave someone to quickly take the chisel and hammer and place it flat on the surface of the ring and smack it with the hammer as you move the torches out then get them to do it NOW it's red hot, if not then you have to move quick and do it yourself. So think this first and have everything ready. Now dont be a pussy hit the thing like you want to kill it 2x and I do mean hit it 2x if on the first it dosent just pop right off but dont let it cool in place till free of what ever you want it from. Just dont heat the part you want it from at the same rate ......!!!!!!!!!!!!!..fast heat is the main trick to this working!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I can say it works for me and if you dont have the same results well your doing it wrong.Hope this help someone some time. Dt50 out Of course this all goes without saying wear your saftey glases and boots,, jackets,get your mommy to approve before attempting anything I say

Ok if the caliper is junk then just cut the side of it and work it off, drill holes where ever as long as you dont make a big mess of the hanger/slider pin it can be reused. But first sleep on it and have another go tomorrow it just might start moving. or if if you have tools to do then drill and tap the hole and install a grease nipple and attach a grease gun and pump it till it is full and heat it up it will pop right off,lots of german crap cars use the same way of holding the caliper on and thats how I get them appart

Ah young grasshopper we are not done yet, it will come appart and if only you save the hannger( the part bit it bolts/slide onto to hold it on the spindle.) it will save you some cash Soak it overnight with some penetrating oil if you have any and go at it again in the morning just working it up and down. If that fails to do it then drill a hole about 1/8 of a inch in the end of the caliper centered to the slider till you get through the caliper and soak it from that end with oil and warm it up and work it up and down/heat oil /heat oil/heat/ This slider dosent actualy hold the calpier on it just lets it rotate/slide so you can seal the end of the hole you drill after if it is worth saving after. Who know the piston may be seized as well?

I bet the slide is in backwards and it will rev to the moon when it fires up.

Then you didnt get the carb right. pour a tea spoon full of gas down the spark plug hole and pop the plug back in and see if it will start. And tommy was refereing to the same switch

Slip the axel back in to help hold it in place while you free it up.

Yep 1 bolt 1 slider probably just hasn't been off in a while spray some wd 40 under the rubber boot and work it up and down,dont beat it off once you get it moving it will come free

300-19 same as tire size.

Take the wheel out.

Easier to not bother fixing the pump if it's broken but.. if it works and,, you have all the parts then why not easier to just put gas in the tank

L5 and s1 discs fucked and have the same problem with the nerve getting traped,funny though if I dirt bike it seems to help. keep it at bay. I dont have a ass just skin and bones so if you have one then yep it's fat LMAO one day and it never came back It's quite the different bike now,did they atleast put a gel pad under the leather?

LMAO just went throught that today with ebay ,thanks for the laugh

Is the oil injection system working then?

First check the rad level to see if it drops,if it does then the water pump seal is shot 5 bucks.White foamy tras fluid is normaly cause buy the WP seal,but as this has been sitting in a pile who knows drain flush with varsol and refill with clean oil,the amout is cast in case by fill hole something like 750cc =750mm =3/4 a liter =about a bit more than3/4 a quart LOL sorry my conversion is bad for imperial. The tranny and crank are seperate so unless the right crank seal is shot the motor cant pull tranny fluid. If you mixed your gas too rich then black smoke is normal,if the oil pump is working and adding even more then it will be way to rich. Wass there any oil left in the oil injection tank? is the oil tank even still on the bike? Hoses hooked up to anything?

I would try first taking all the adjustment you can get at the carb and throttle and re routing first and if still no joy move both left and right controls in the same amount and cut the ends of the bar off with a pipe cutter. I would bet you can get the slack you need or at worse you might have to cut off 3-4 mm,hardley worth the hassel of custom cables Custom made cables are a pita when it breaks and you need another one

Welcome Adam

+1 with Airhead use a large coin and just tighten it just past snug, people have a tendency to over tight them and then they are a PITA to get back off. And you always have a coin in your pocket to check it if you think it's loose.

OH boy you should just leave it to a pro I didnt say chang oil and plugs just remove Good Luck.