dt502001

I remember reading about the mirical surgey he had and how they sewed his legs together,never seen this story Thanks drewps

Haha a complete set of swearing,do you keep notes on wich words do the best job of removing certian parts for future reference,I have found that "come on you f'n POS" works well. Scare tatics work well too Like: If you dont come off I will get a bigger hammer and hit you harder. good choice to buy some good tools I see so much stuff broken or destroied by people because they have cheap tools that dont fit right.Then once they have totaly screwed it up they bring it to me and ask can you get this appart. Reminds me of a old Labour rate. 65 per hour,85per hour if you help,105 if you did it first and now I have to fix it.

Cynic the stroke is the same on the 426 and 400 so if they moved the wrist pin location the differenc in clearence would have to be in the cylinder height, you cant move the pistion higher with the same stroke with out moving the head up,or shaving more off a piston that is allready so small in skirt that is almost unfeasable to think of doing. but it could have a larger wrist pin,hence the need for a 426 conecting rod but if they increased the crank pin size as well then you will need the crank as well. You need to finnish researching this and find all the measurements. A new cylinder is not that much more than recoating a old used one,it's the head that is expencive new,so the easy way to fix this is get a good head,rebuild you crank ( best way then the crank is new) and a new 400 barrel and pistion rings ect... or dig through the net on parts suppliers till you find the measurements of all the parts. A used crank is real only good for rebuilding as the bearing should be replaced anyway,these motors dont make for good used parts other than castings.

Just a guess but the petcock vac side sound like your problem,or a pluged gas cap vent.

Yep that worked elvis HOLY CRAP that would wake you up in a hurry.If I was on my bike I would have been moving to the right.Hope I never get that POV.

Black hat it's not so much the population cause we have 1/10 per sq inch but they give licences out of cracker jack boxes,and the dam imports get them even easier.Yesterday a china woman couldn't back up 30 feet to get out of the lane way of the shop and we had to turn the car around for her.She almost hit 4 cars and had the car sidways in the lane.And this is not the first one who we have had to do this for, it happens all the time.They get thier relatives to go with them to wright the test because they cant read english and thier relative tells them all the answers,then when they fail the road test they scream and play the rasist card and get it anyway even if they cant drive. Driving in the city's in ontario is a lesson in defencive driving,I'd rather take my chances with the deer and other critters in the country than try and guess what 1/2 of the idiots in the city are about to do.

Nope still wont play here,Bippo

Any port in a storm LOL that big enough to any work on your bike,look at what most of the guys here have to work in a wee little 10x10 shed.

Asuming your going to go with the athina 170 kit then it will come with all the instructions to re jet. I would be suprised if it dosent come with the nessary jets.

Ok a quick search and the 426 and 400 share the same stroke of 60.1 mm the only difference is the bore 92.0mm vs 95mm 426, So the 400 crank will work with a 426 barrel,,,the 450 is a stroker of 63.4mm. so the barrel will be taller to accomidate the stroke and yam could have moved the studs. As for comming of a running bike and no problems well not true,,it's nic coated bore so a 400 barrel could be bored out and recoated to be a 426, the used barrel will have to be recoated,well I would recoat it so you know it's new and not going to flake off after a few miles. Now this I dont know,if the head will bolt into place from a 450 then there is no reason to not use it,it will be flowed to provide more fuel for the 450 so essentaly a free porting job. So find out what the measurments of the studs are and if they match then go for it. Valve and valve spring life is short on these motors so you will have to check them as well valves strech and springs warp,so what I am saying is as long as you can find some good castings to work with then buy them and recondition them.The mian reason why these motors blow up is because people dont change the valves and springs as per the maintence schedual. Crank and tranny bearing should be changed as well,split your cases and check the tranny bearings bet you will find at leats 1 that has worn and notchy.In comparresion to a rd 350 the bearings are 1/2 as big. Any used motor realy should be striped and checked with the age of the motor,running or not will need work. A 2000.00 dollar rebuild is about normal for these motors and the newer the head the easier it is to get better ti aftermarket valves, I have spent just about as much maintaing my bike's eng in the 12yrs I have owned it as I paid for it

If you want it to last Mat then spend the money on a quality paint,and bake it on.It's all in the curing of the paint that will make it hard and last. Aircraft paint seems to be the toughest paint I have ever seen,and time will tell about felixs paint about how it lasts but it did turn out nice. As allready stated prep and cleneness is key to getting the paint to stick,even though it bee soda blasted there is always crap in the air so wash down with thinners and dry,paint quickly.

This might be a cheaper alternative to building it yourself http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/wr400-wr-400-426-450-supermoto/1055398479#photo-content

While you have the head off Ben check it carefuly for cracks and warpage,no point in wasting a new gasket only to have the problem repeat it's self.

More to the point if the chain is that worn,that your removing links to adjust it, then just replace the chain.

Hi put a noid light on the injector and see if it flashes,after you check to see if you have fuel pressure.

What i dont get is that it is a very well traveled looking road like surface and the fence is new and not marked verywell near the end you can see that someone added orange platic strips to the barb wire,but ffs they could have added alot more or thrown a old log in the road. Lots of guys get decapated on snowmobiles from fences like that. Farmers open thier property for the winter and let the snowmobiles cross and I think that is what happened he was following a trail that is only open seasonaly. Owell just goes with what they say know your trails before you ride them hard,he wont be forgeting that experience for a while,and he walked away

Rode the Bking and yuck the tank is HUGE it feels 2x as heavy as the Bandit and its fugly.Reminded me more of my old 81 gs1100 in the fact that it just didnt want to turn,the c of g feels like its all in the top and front end.The busa is bad enough for handeling compared to the bandit but the bking is way worse.I didn't like anything about it.

If it's not marked magnisium on the inside then try and polish it with some compound if it polishs up then it's aluminum if it wont polish then its mag.

Surely you could back probe the leeds from the regulator with the bike running to check if any output is present before buying a new regulator,or feed the circut to check the un regulated out put?

Lucky it didnt cut him in halfhttp://video.ca.msn.com/watch/video/motorcyle-rider-hits-barb-wire-at-30mph/1glcluq4p?from=en-ca-quad Video: Motorcyle rider hits barb wire at 30mph

Thats Cool just seen the look on peoples face the first time they get off a busa,on the suzuki demo ride last year a guy stoped about a mile down the road and said he wouldn't ride it any farther.He had shown up on a gs500 and was bipping off about how he was going to buy a busa now that he had mastered the 500,couldn't make up his mind to go new or used BLABLA BLA. MY guess he never got it out of 1 st gear and shit his pants,he was gone befor the group got back. When I bought the bandit it was a coin toss between the the 2 bikes,busa more power,bandit more comfortable,injection vs carbs,tried and tested old motor vs new unkown,bike that feels more like a 600 vs bike that feels like a 1300,visual styling the bandit wins hands down and in 01 came in candy red so the bandit won. If your going to build it in stages then the stock bottom end is quite cabable of 300hp from what I have read,so would you build the motor first and then add the turbo or turbo and low boost first?

Just wondering Have you ever riden a stock busa? to know what 170+hp is like? I know just slaping a NOS kit on one is a hand full when you hit the button,, turboing one would be mental..I love the idea of a bike that you could pull the front wheel at 150MPH but the idea of replacing tires every 2000kms is scary and chain life must be short as well. My buddy had a 89 gsxr1100 turboed back in the day and WOW but I dont think it was making more than 250 hp and that thing scared /impressed the hell out of me.But i was riding a rz350 back then as well so quite the difference. Also I didnt see a fuel mangment system on the shopping list so add another 1500

HAHAHA I have never won a fishing derby ever but my buddy has a nice new Lund Bass boat that I can use when ever I want LOL. Well was new 10 years ago just before the devorce. If you can pull off the 10g sneaky build then you are the MAN of the century!

A 7 is a hotter plug than a 8 so if its using oil then go with the 7 will stay cleaner longer if that helps.

Thats funny Nev every time I fixed something for someone and lets just say it was a 400 job the ex was only ever was told it was a 200 job and parts alway cost 1/2 of the real value if asked. My excuse for a 800 pole was "well I just caught 200 worth of fish with it so it will pay for it's self in no time" LOL Always buy the pole and go fishing with it before she see's it