dt502001

Well there you go it will be a honamaha a couple of 250 rebble shocks and your off to the races,just find a flat surface to measure the frame height front and back and make sure you drop the bike the same both front and rear the same or you will affect the rake angle. If you want to be certian you get the rake angle perfect then buy one of these http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058WYXAI/ref=asc_df_B0058WYXAI3118444?smid=A1Z82GPWV68N4T&tag=nextagusmp0403791-20&linkCode=df0&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B0058WYXAI and take a measurement first before you change anything.You will need to remove the head light to mount the gauge to the frame.but FYI if she would rather a bike that that steers slower ( better for pounding down miles on the slab but not for track day) increase the angle by not droping the front as much. Alot of people hate when I say this but.... you can cut the spring down in the front forks to get the bike lower without haveing the tubes touching the handel bars,or if you cant get the rake angle right thats the only choice left,short of having new springs made.

First verifie that the left seal is not leaking by spraying wd40 at it while running and see if the revs change. If no change then start with the air mixture screw 1/2 a turn is just a base setting and no 2 bikes will run the same so turn it out a 1/8 or a 1/16th of a turn and see how it runs or in if it get worse. You will most likely need to blip the throttel as your adjusting to see how the bike reacts and keep it running,,, as well you will need to adjust the idle screw 1.5 turn again is just a base setting If you cant get it to run better with adjusting the air screw then I would suspect that the choke plunger seals are bad. You said the bike ran before this carb cleaning but you didnt say how well,or what prompted you to clean the carb. The reference made in the manual would be how the bike actualy performs not this situation,that would be refering to fine tuning and your a long way from that yet.

Nice questions bb3924 (...............can the you guys set it up in the title of workshop /use that as a pre question before someone asks a first question.... Mod's?)

Totaly off topic but burning ETH or MTH also reduces the worlds food supply They could use all the scraps from other waist productio but look at the amout they use of corn alone to make eth?

Exactly my point some rubber was not ment to be used while others are fine,,,though my mistake TASK about the way the diaphrams are attached to your slides .In your case I would see that happening once and switch the carbs out with some flat slides and be done with it as most guys do for performance gains not many FJ this side still running stock carbs in my circle of friends. But to get back to the main question about octain rating PLEASE read paragraph 5 specficaly of this from sunoco about ANTI KNOCK and the relivance to octain rating http://www.racegas.com/article/11..... Then if you have ever burnt/melted( read Burnt white and /or missing peices of the electrode) a spark pulg,holed a pistion then talk to me about why,and i will always say the same thing you needed to re jet and your running lean on any 4t air or oil cooled bike.= new fuel

DDT will you be sending everyone 1 board of the worshop for refund or the tool shed LOL Or a rubber floor mat HAHAHA

Thanks for fixing the link what one do you use drew I never seem to get it right?

I ride my bike when I can no matter the weather but I clean the crap off after and protect it a few bucks a year on wd 40,wax and polishing compound is way cheaper than replacing or fixing.And so many people spen thousands on replating painting ect that if they just kept it clean they wouldn't have to,so to me a few hours a week cleaning and protecting is way cheaper in the long run.

Heres the link to a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8Xo43sfLgY

DISCLAIMER!!!! If you cant put air in your own tires or have no idea how this could possibly hurt you do not try this at home,if you get hurt doing this contact the person who made the video!!!!! Everyone has had this happen to them your wd 40 or what ever can has fluid left in it but wont spray any more out here is a easy fix. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0asTeFlTck

Hope you got the side pannels with it they are the hard part to find,the rest easy.1 identical up for sale here much nicer and the guy wants 4 k for it running all original so you have a big window of cash to spend before you spend more than it's worth

Foams I swear your mad at yourself and punnish yourself for drinking,by buying this junk.There is a bike there but you know its going to have issues,slap a front fender on it and a rattle can paint job and ditch it to the next preson who will give you your money back + 1 dollar and be rid of it befor you waist any more money on it. The money in restoring bike is to find the ones people want not the one that no one wants.LOL

You could move the move the mounting point's if your a capable welder to get the lower effect

Holy crap just looked at your bearings, they dont look as if they have been serviced in forever and a few days and the rears must need at least a good cleaning have you pull the wheel off to check them the last owner may have done them,but looking at the condition you got the bike in doubt he did much service to it at all. I am amazied by the condition people your side let bikes get to,you do see the odd POS here but for the most part our bikes get a full service every year at least,and not too many get left outside either,they dont build houses here without a garage and most appartments have under ground parking,gotta have something to do when your burried in snow for months on end , as you can only have sex so much before you want to play with your bike LOL

You can do it that way but remember you have to start the thing and all the power to the coils you can get the better,lots of them chinese quads with a switch you could use for dirt cheap. But it is suposed to have all 3 positions how does low beam work now? You cant Mto it without a low beam.Personaly I would go with a way to shut off the lights,you know incase you need to escape from zombies at night

LOL I would have though she would be more worried if you told her you were going to push up her rear end All kinds of ways around the seat height though,change rims size and the above mentioned but why not just buy another bike that fits ,or new shoes women love new shoes with some more sole you'll get 2x the brownie pionts and probably wont cost anymore in the end.

Why throw darts at it ??????As Cynic pointed out you can quite easly do a pressure test of the cooling system and see where it leaks from then order parts and fix it right. It will do you no good to change the pump and seals if the case is cracked.

If this dosent make you laugh your bent 'A gentleman is preparing to board a plane, when he hears that the Pope is on the same flight. "This is exciting," thinks the gentleman. "Perhaps I'll be able to see him in person." Imagine his surprise when the Pope sits down in the seat next to him. Shortly after take-off, the Pope begins a crossword puzzle. Almost immediately, the Pope turns to the gentleman and says, "Excuse me, but do you know a four letter word referring to a woman that ends in 'unt?'" Only one word leaps to mind. "My goodness," thinks the gentleman, "I can't tell the Pope that. There must be another word." The gentleman thinks for quite a while, and then it hits him. Turning to the Pope, the gentleman says, "I think the word you're looking for is 'aunt.'" "Of course," says the Pope. "Do you have an eraser?"

Welcome on Bolton ,bikes and beer great mix as long as its in that order.

Depends on if you have a hig /low bulb or just a single beam bulb. If it has 3 pins the its dual beam.

Well you got the post in the right section ,but a hello in the new membersection would help as I/we have no idea about your mechanical ablities. Might I ask why you think you did a crank seal? that make no sence to me why you would ask how to do it if you did it.

Bet you didnt shut off the gas and it just plain old flooded.When you rebuilt it did yoiu reset the carb after 13 years of bouncing around it could use to be checked.

+1 with Cynic the problem has to be in the water pump,seals,shaft or caseing its the only path for coolant to get into the gear box. Head barrel cracks would have the coolant in the exhaust pipe or it would run like a steem eng. or pressurizing the coolant system and blowing back out.

Fact: you need almost 2x a bigger jet to run alcohol in a I.C.E so even a 10% mix means your running lean if your still running the stock jets that came with the bike,so you will be better off to run the lowest amount of eth you can get or have your bike rejetted. Now Octain rating means nothing to performance gains,octaing rating is the ability to resist pre ignition (knocking,pining) commonly accosiated with high compression engines,2 and 3d map ignition(read CDI TCI) systems,old engines with large amounts of carbon build up on the piston,and old centrifical advance systems with weak springs that will alow the timming curve to advance to quickly.( so guys with old bikes replace your springs and get the timming curve back right) Where people get confused with octain rating is when they look at race fuels they see octain ratings of 110 115 and think that has TO BE THE REASON when it has nothing to do with it .The reason the octain has to be raised in race fuels is because the fuel is so voiltial that if the octain was only 85 rating you would have to retard you ignition system to prevent preignition so far that you would see no preformance gains,or dammage your enging from repetive pre ignition.(read bent con rods, holed pistions, burnt intake valves) The guys making race fuels blend and refine the same old dinasour crue oil but to a much finer state to creat the highly volital fuels they make in secret,and trust me the teams racing supported by a race fuel company get better fuel than the stuff they sell to everyother race team,unless its a sactioned race and everyone has to run the same fuel. Where as pump gas octain is just a additive,, added to the same fuel they make every day in the exact same way at the refinery. Modern vehicles all have knock sensors that constantly feed information back to the cpu and th cpu caculates this information and adjust the timming (read retard) to compensate so even if the eng is designed to run on hig octain fuel it just cuts the power down by giving it less time to burn at a later degree of timming if you put in lower grade fuel.So you will see a increase in fuel comsumption.VS running the proper octain rating. Now on to the effects of eth,,just ask and old speed way racer and they will tell you all the horror storys of the guy who didnt drain his fuel after every race,or any guy running modern race fuel.It is CORROSIVE THE AMOUNT OF CHEMICALS IN THE FUEL IS A MILE LONG.And should not be stored in a mettal container of any kind unless lined with plastic. And the chemicals break down quickly thats why modern fuel has a shelf life of about 30 days.And must be kept in a sealed container,enviroment be damed .If you think the fuel companys give a shit about the enviroment your a fool.They know the good stuff they added evaporats first. Look at a modern car the entire fuel system is plastic,and dont think the car manufactuers though well if we make the gas tank and fuel lines they will last longer for people and they wont have to replace them ever like the cars of old.NOT ON you life,if they didnt make it out of plastic the lines and gas tanks would rott off in a few years and you can't sell a car with a warrenty for 1 year. Only 10 years ago the intakes were still made of mettal and the effects of eth started showing up with intakes rotting on the cars at a huge rate, metal /composite gaskets failing, look at any new car and the intake is plastic and so are the gaskets.Even the samll eng companys started making carbs out of plastic to deal with the situation/effects of eth..Sure they gain a abit of weight saving but not enough to warrent doing it for that reason all alone. So the bottom line is if you store your bike even for a week drain the fuel from the carbs and if the fuel is more than 30 days old its junk!, If your bike is more that 10 yrs old you need to rejet. If you bike was designed to run on a certian level of octain then run that and no lower,,, any higher will have no effect on performance unless it contains less eth( here it all has a 10% mix) Rubber and eht have little to no effect on each other, in your case Tasky the bonding agent of old to hole the diaphrams to the slide was not designed to be eth compatable .Some old rubber is effected though and its easie to see it will swell up.If eth was dammiging the diaphrams just about every bike older that 10 years would need new diaphrams in weeks after running eth for the first time. I hope this clears up the octain rating question if nothing else.

Nice collection you have