dt502001

If you like it after you try it then your hooked for life. And you might have a few battle scars but it will never stop you. It's a family and we all have family members we dont like but It's family none the less, you still respect them. Only thoes who have never tried it,,, will never understand " why we ride"............. a shitty day of riding in the crap weather is still better than a good day at work! Ever got off your bike and not felt ALIVE ? Any crapy day can be fixed with a good ride to clear your head.

Bring your duck suit and water proff matches ,,,its been blowing your way and we have had some BIG down pours the last few days. Might burn it's self out before it gets your way but don't count on it.

Unless your running a radio or a RF device on your bike than you don't need resistors at all,they only even out RF signals and now most every thing is not RF, but digitial then who cares your only going to buzz someones tv or radio for a brieff moment as you pass by. When the cap went On the wr and Yam wanted 80 bucks for a new one I just replaced the resistor with a bolt of the same length and bang the bike ran /started better. Might even be making a bit more power?

LOL did you remember to slap your kid in the back of the head for the things they did,,( just say that's for what you did ,,,we will talk about it later),, that you don't know about yet today? Trust me it works they own up to shit you wouldn't know about!

If the front brakes are not releasing then the bleed port in the master is pluged. It's the small hole closes to the hose end alows fluid to travel back to the master once the seal moves back. Don't try to start it untill you have the carbs sorted out your breaking in a new motor and runing it on one cylinder or flooding will not be good. Same thing if that hose blows off ,loosen it off at the rad and get it on right. Be a crying shame to blow it up before you even get to ride it.

Holy carp I can't belive the threads didn't let go first,someone clearly over tightened that. It's only good for a paper weight now. The one in your link looks the same is thier not a casting number on the back to compare,it's off the shelf part that yam is using so good chance that it's the same.

Given the age of the bike I would say your steering bearings need to be replaced,the only way for the steering to come loose is for the bearings to wear down.When was the last time you cleaned and repacked the bearings?

What task said, start with checking all your connections first from battery to starter and the main groung on eng. If you don't have a inductive clamp to test the starter amp draw then get someone who has on to check it,, if the starter is drawing amp close to what your battery is rated for then your going to kill the new battery quickly. Rebuilding a starter is not that hard but if your not real handy then getting it rebuilt is still better than buying a used one. This "clunk" would have me thinking that possibly you have something on it's way out but I cant hear it so I have no idea. might be worth pulling the clutch cover off and see how hard it is to turn the motor over by hand.

Post a picture of this "split" I have never seen a caliper split open. Seals leak ,pistons seized broken off in a accident but never just split open. The amount of pressure in a brake system will blow any patch job off short of welding it. To your question any caliper could be made to fit, but as there are lots of parts on flea bay you should be able to find the right one for your bike. EDIT: dtr and dtx would use the same caliper

I wouldn't suggest re using the head gasket,and order the shim kit now you will need it ,even if you can swap the shims around and get very lucky not to need them now, once the new valves seat in they will need to be shimed in 200 miles or less. I would check them after 50 miles don't want to whipe out the cams.

Hi, welcome. Tire pressuers and chain check before every ride.

Same gear all year long joe rocket kevlar over pants and jacket,I just change what I wear under if it's hot shorts and a tee shirt the gear has enough venting to be ok in the city,but I tend not to ride in the city as much as possible.And keep adding layers as the temp cools. Seen far to much road pizza to even think about going out without,and I shudder when I see people without gear on.Ity's also rule #1 in this house NO GEAR NO RIDING! my son knows I dont care if your only moving the bike to the trailer, push it or gear up or loose it Only done the full leathers on track days. Stand on the left ? I think it just like the standard shift pattern 1 down 4-5 up people are used to it so they just do it that way.I rode a old brittish bike years ago with the oppsit shift pattern once and hated it. And sure if they moved the stand to the right I wouldn't like that either, probably wouldn't buy the bike.

Don't be so quick to fault the starter clutch when they go the starter dosen't enguage and free spins, yamaha also had a shim kit to fix poor enguagment of the starter to clutch. Have a amp draw test done on the starter ,could just need a freshing up with new brushes and a cleaning of the armeature, or the connections cleand up a poor ground can cause these symptoms too. Hopefuly it is just a week battery good luck.

Out of currisoty what did you get for a finnal reading out of the pick up A/C volts? I have the rubber stop you need but sure you can get it faster your side,.lots of car intake manifolds havs what you need. Got a local auto wrecker?

Remove left cover press starter button and find starter selonoid ( thing going buzz) remove the 2 heavy wires and clean them up and reinstall. Clean the small wire as well, clean both battery terminals. and squirt some wd 40 in the start button..Bike should start. If not take a jumper wire and jump the 2 wires at the selonoid if the bike turns over then the selonoid is done

Shouldn't cost you anything they didn't tighten the flywheel properly thats the only reason why it would do the key in! Take it back and tell them to fix it right this time. It a 20 min job to replace the key and set the timming. PS 2t dont make alot of power down low got to get them into the power band.

Ye HA finnaly!!!!!! look out tommy he's still got time before squires HAHAHa. So relay box gone and kill switch working and this night mare was mainly because of to much resistance in the plugs?

Yep you got the slide in backwards. cut out part at the bottom goes air box side

As others have said a grade 8 bolt of 6 inch length will have a smooth surface for the first 3.5 inches so just cut the threaded part off and drill a hole for the cotter pin. I've got a bunch of old cylinder head bolts from cars that would work as all new cars use strech bolts they are only good for 1 use so any auto shop will have a bunch just stop and ask be more than strong enough for this application. Or check out a nut and bolt supplier they carry pins like that for hydraulic rams.

If by slip you mean it's poping outa gear, I would pull the gears out drop them off at niagra race craft ( they are about the closest place for you )and have them under cut and replace the shift fork. Cheaper and better fix. Did you test the chargin with the new battery before changing the RR?

Check all your grounds and load test the battey with a carbon pile or check each cell with a hydometer a 5er will get you a battery cell tester from princess auto If the rr was bad it would go over charge or no charge normaly. I would suspect that the stator is week/bad cell in the battery or poor ground.

If the gear oil is not leaking on the ground then it is getting sucked in past the right crank seal. 3.5 turns on the pilot screw is probably to much,,normaly it is around 2. By the sounds of things you need to get a manual and set the carb up at the proper float height move the clip back to 3 rd position on the needle and replace the choke plunger seals. If you post some pictuers of the spark plug it would help and changing to a br8 might help.

MSR makes shifters good quality cheap ran a KTM shifter one weekend because it fit and that was all they had at the track that day

Pirceless couldn't sum it better,loved the disclaimer's

I want to know how you had the camshaft seals replaced? LOL sure it was a typo on your part but if you can find a camshaft in a 2t your a magican. Bear in mind, I recently had the bike torn down and camshaft seals and bearsing on both sides replaced to eliminate air sucking issues diagnosed with help of this forum. . Who ever fixed it DON"T let them BS you they F'd up and the timming is wrong.