dt502001

No Slice they make replacment cover's that are thicker and the "factory racing part just makes it thicker nothing more noting less. What this person did is not helping the bike at all do anything but look different,the tune of the pipe is lost scavenging lost back pressure lost a complete LOSS and waiste of money ,time,weight gain

Back fire and the other symptoms are much like what happend when the cdi went on my rz. Earlie timming causing the back fire will cause a lean burn.White ish plug. While your waiting for your seals check everything else wireing related and test the pick up cold and warm with a heat gun and check it,most test are to be done a 20c but they can break down when hoter.

If you oil level is right then you shoudn't find any oil in the air box,if it was over filled then it will blow back into the air box. Clean out the air box and set the oil lever correct slightly less that full with the bike up right and then run the bike if it continues to keep putting oil in the air box you rings need changing. Compression test would be in order as well. If you can do a leak down test and listen to the air box and see how much is blowing by the rings. Also how many miles on the bike?

Done and shared

? HUD = heads up display HID = high intensty discharge they make alot of heat and I have seen them melt the housing.

Even though you didn't say hello first or at all. I would hate to se you burn you bike up. You need a rebuild kit simpel enough job to change out the seals just undoo the screws holing the tap together. PRI is straight fuel flow you shouldn't be using that! Only if you run out of gas to re fill the carb other than that on and res on and res are vaccumme activated fuel should only flow when vac is on the diaphram on the back side of the tap. Now go to new members section and introduce yourself.

+1 on good rubber and droping your tire pressure will give you a slightly larger contact area I like to run 28 psi in the rain. When I rode on bias tires I swore by metzler me33's

Did you check the pins that the pads ride on for wear groves? You didn't mention what type of pads you installed,cheap pads well you get what you pay for,they could not be seating even with the rotor

BH yam has kept the cost down by not going FI and the handeling of the yz is way better than the King Till Monday.Keep Taking Money POS .HP is only part of what makes a MX bike fast what the yz lacks in HP is more than made up for in the ridability. The KTM is very twitchy in the whops and the YZ soaks them up,the Yz tracks better out of corners and the power deliverly is spot on.Makeing it the easier /faster bike to ride. Honestly I can say if ther was 1 bike I would never own it would be a KTM. Sorry to Hi jack your carb question Jake but I hate KTM's over priced IMO and the only bike that I have seen snap in half on more than 1 occasion just comming down from a big jump.

Got to love her http://video.ca.msn.com/watch/video/biker-girl-vs-litterers/2gvb8hevn?from=en-ca-quad

WOW I missed this whole thread great story about the old lady and your bikes are sweet!

I like that seat where did you get it? Try putting it out in the sun for a day and the wrinckels might just smooth them self out

If you can lean the bike over running and it dosen't overflow then it's fine,if not then the float is out of adjustment. Fuel leaking when trailering is not uncommon,best to shut the fuel off and let the bike run till the carb is empty,this makes starting the bike easier.When your going down the road over bumps and train tracks fuel will splash up into the intake and soak the filter,my wr (basicaly the same bike) can be a royal pain to start if I dont empty the carb before trailering. As for taking it back to the dealer don't bother as you have no warenty and this is something you will need to do fairly often anyway so might as well learn how.The carb is easy to get off and back on,when instaling the bowl screws dont crank them down just tighten them up, changeing them for allen bolts is a good idea as the star head strip easy if over tightened. The dealer might do it once for free but I doubt it as MX bikes see lots of abuse and if you have had even one crash then they will most likely laugh at you.

Welcome Jake

Also with the bike running check you voltage out put from the stator/regulator at the battery should be no more that 14.5 volts

If it is the regulator then simply un pluging it,should restor the starter problem. But I would go that route of changeing it untill you have done some other tests first. First check all cables from the main ground on the eng postive to the starter relay to the starter. A poor ground can cause these problems too. feed 12v to the starter directly, and see if the starter will work. check the starter relay and that you have a good signal to the selonoide check the starter button for open and closed circut.

Thats a great close up but I cant tell what is what,but you can see a gasket blown. How about another picture or 2

Do you guys not have "branding" ie if a vehical has been in accident and writen off by the insurance co,, then it gets branded as repariable or not ? Sorry I just dont understand the seller's info...Catagory C would be irrepairble

Lol funny how that works you don't notice how worn something is till you fix related things sometimes,so guess your now on the hunt for a low mileage shock. Was it my suggestion of mixing oils or you just hade enough of both left over from other fork rebuilds that you decided to go that route?

Yep when childeren make you laugh it's always the best,honest and straight to the point.

Ok I will try againg hold carbs so float piviot pin is up and carbs are 90 deg from normal and slowly rotate the entire carb body with the piviot up till the tang just barley touches the plunger pin then take your measurement. Typicaly the arm that hold the floats from piviot will now be level with the carb body where the bowl fits or just slightly raised at the far end of the pivot

Ya what air head said at 30mm the float would be closing the needle earlier leaving less fuel in the bowl,,must have worn seats/needles? When does it leak fuel at rest? that woud be a bad petcock seal. Only 10 bucks or so to change

Hold the carbs on a angle so the tang just barley touches the needle plunger,that way the float weight is not on the needle there by not compressing the needle plunger, and adjust the tang as nessary untill you get the right height.

Sounds good hi and welcome

Hi and welcome