dt502001

I love fishing when ever I can get away for 3-4 hrs you will find me on a lake. also expermenting with making diferent booze last batch was a apple cider ummmie. As a father son thing we play with Rc trucks and helli's. Not sure it's a hobby but I spend lots of time picking up new girls,after being married for 10 yrs being single is way more fun

No it won't matter but may I ask why you want to put it in is it running rough? If your just putin it in to keep the carb clean put 1/10th of the bottle in but even then not realy nessary as most new fuels have cleaners added .It's only when the fuel is alowed to evaporate the gum and varnish starts to build up,

+1 the carb must still have some crapin it,as airhead said make sure every passage,is clear.Pulling the air mixtuer screw and cleaning is a good idea ,just mark it and count the turns out so you can put it back right,

Well that sucks,hopefull it's just the rings stuck to the piston and didn't damage the cylinder to bad. 10yrs is perty good though.

1St it's probably just old oil in the pipe try taking the pipe off and de coke it by putting it in a fire and burning out all the old oil. What colour is the plug black? Also are you using/loosing any coolant?

Clean the pilot jet as well it's the small one off to the side set in deep,thats the one responsable for low speed/light throttle,which sounds more like your problem .Also when puting in the bowl screws in don't over tighten or you will have a heck of a time next time you need to take them out

Ok if fuel flows during prime,but not when vaccum is aplied to the petcock, then the small diaphram in the petcokc is not moving to allow fuel flow. Run the bike and make sure the small hose from the intake to petcock has a good vac not torn or loose at either end.You can run the bike with it disconected when in the prime position As far as running on prim ,yes it only if the float is not seating/stoping fuel when full.Otherwise no reason why you can't run on prime just have to shut it off (ie turn to run )when stoped and you no longer have reserve. The diaphram on the top of the carb works by the difference in air pressure on either side of the carb, the oval slot at the top of the inlet side of the carb if you blow air across it (not in ) the slide will move up.If it's no good the bike will still start and idle just won't rev up or rev up weird. Get a bottle and hang it higher than the carb with fuel in it and run the bike that way,this will give you a gravity feed set up, eliminating the need for the pump just to prove you have a fuel delivery problem.Also pour a tea spoon of gas right into the spark plug holes put the plugs back in fast and try to start. Get a spray bottle and squirt fuel into the carb air inlet if it will run this way then the pump is shot or you have a vac

Check for power on the small wire (when button is pushed) at the solenoid if you have power then it's pmf if not then check at the button for power if you have power coming to the button then the button is pmf

Well day 1 done hang in there,lucky you free patches but the chemical addiction is only half the battel.LOL take up kniting that will keep you hands busy.

Thats water dammage from sitting,if it rotates freely it will work. as for working in the cold NFW a heater that fits on top of a propane tank cost 40-50 bucks 10 min would heat the shop up nice and toasty.I have one for ice fishing,and we use a old tent with no insulation in temp as low as -40c and we can sit in there in t shirts,and we sleep in there.And yes its vented so we don't die from exhauts fumes. for my shop a nice wood stove just a cheap little 10"w x18"d x 12"h box I welded together out of scrap steel from a old oil tank ,cost 0.00 to run I collect skids from the lumber yard and end cuts from the roof truss company around the corner. It runs day and night keeping the shop around15 c at night and get it roaring and it gets up to 30c. I have seen kits to make a 45 gallon steel drum into a stove for 75.00 bucks if you have room come with leggs, door, and flue all cast iron wouldn't take more than a hour or 2 to put one together and as you have other projects to do later I would get a heat source NOW and by parts later. Not the safest but the BBQ can work too just make sure the co2 doesn't build up

You could try picking up a can of spray can of carb cleaner,drain the carb and fill with cleaner through the fuel inlet let it sit over night and drain it the next morning and with the drain open flush it through with more spray,this might sofen up the crap and let it get sucked through. If you can rotate the carb enough installed and get the 4 screws loose that hold the carb bowl on then just pull the bowl off and clean er up.the 4 screws will be the battel as they are made of butter so make sure you screw driver fits realy well

Well they say having a support group helps with quiting ,as well as having other things to keep you busy..sooooo buy another bike in need of some work, even if you just flip it for some extra cash when done. Good luck

Bulb life might be a bit shorter at a constant 14.7,but nice and bright ...small price to pay.You could fit extra front lights ie: fog lamps with ease then.

1stpost..... PRI position has the capacity to start and run the bike when vacuum doesnt work? last post ... The bike doesnt start buddy, did u mean cranking Ok confused but I'll go with not running .If you fill the carb or from another fuel source ie gravity feed tank then the bike will run ...right? If so run it that way with everything else hooked up Ie fuel pump vac lines to tank and see if the pump,pumps fuel into a bottle and at what rate and check for vac leaks/vac supply to pump. If you have a good vac to pump and fuel supply to pump is not blocked then pump is shot.

Hi welcome can't wait for the info on the turbo project

Yep had the same thing happen last year got quoted on line @900.00 called my broker same company got ins.for 601.00. I don't think the on line site can add in all the discounts ie driver traing,years exp,ticket free ,distance to work.Or as you suggested they are just grabing $$$ from thoes who don't shop around.

Give it a secon the pict comes up

Put shaving cream around the suspected areas of vac leak,start the bike and look to see where the shave cream disapears presto vac leak found. Also aply vac( using a syring or vac pump) to the petcock and see if fuel will then flow

Someone probably put it together with dirt in there,I wouldn't worry to much about it very little load on the gears just needs to turn the cable and speedo.Pop the front wheel on and hook everything up and give the front wheel a spin.

I agree Paul but it's one of thoes things that only seem's to work now and then, It's just the nature of the beast the dam things are just realy hard start with a week coil cold eng temps ,noting to do with outside temp.. Mine went 2 weeks after a rebuild possibly a flexing thing removing it and replacing it????? But thats another thing ,,,,lets wait and see how the test's come out if it's at the upper limits my bet is on the stator/magnito coils. No battery to compensate for weak volt/amps .

Acommon problem with the WR"s is the stator dies/gets weak,the bike will start sometimes 3rd 4th kick others 1/2 hr of kicking then run like nothing is wrong and start the rest of the day. The CDI is the brains of the operation and normaly don't go. 1. check you ignition coil's primary resistance orang +to black - wire .20~.30ohms at (20c 68 f) 2. secondary resistance orange - to spark plug wire + cap removed 9.5~14.3 k ohms 20c 3.pick up coil tested at the plug comming from the stator assembly red + white - 248~372 ohms 4 charge coil#1 brown + green - 640~960 ohms @20c 5 charge coil#2 pink+ green - 464~696 ohms Now here's the bitch the fn charge coils might test ok but sill be breaking down when put to use.This has happen on several occasions with different bikes my wr did it and so did my budys xl600.Luckly his went first he first change the pick up coil then the ignition coil,cdi, as a procces of elimination starting with the cheaper stuff finnaly he changed the charge coils the bike started 1-2 kick everytime after,but he went 6 months with a bike that would start eventualy. When mine first acted up I had trailered the bike 3 hrs away and thought it was just flodded ( i had forgot to turn the gas off after starting it befor we left) so we towed the bike around with my budds van for about 15 min trying to bump start it( after cleaning the plug) finnaly it started and ran fine the rest of the day. The next day I kick my ass off for about 20 min and it finnaly started again running and starting fine. A week of this and this got me thinking about the xl so after testing everything I bit the bullet ordered up a stator instaled and wa laa bike fixed! Getting the spark plug out use a 2 1/2 in extension+sparkplug socket break the plug loose with the ratchet then remove the ratchet extion and socket,then with a rubber hose or old spark plug boot (one from a car wil work as long as its long enough) fit it over the porcelin spin the plug out.To install fit new plug into rubber hose spin in by hand then tighten with tools. This was a piss por desine as the frame is in the way and all tools will get jamed between the frame before the plug is out.NOTE blow the spark plug gally out with compressed air first so any dirt that might have gotten in there dosen't end up in the motor. I know this is a long post but here's my suggestion turn on the gas so you konw the carb is full turn it off then kick till your dead or it starts if it back fires during this time thats a good sign the stator is nfg,if you get it running let it warm up fully or go for a ride then when back home shut it off and try restarting if it fires up normaly the stator is going

Ya but didn't you notice that the dumb asses all wear there gloves i guess thats so they can change all the bandages. I dont get it but lots of people ride in shorts and chicks in bikinis on the back .Last year I stoped and picked up a guys bike again who was wearing shorts what a bloody mess he was but he had his gloves on

Glad to hear you sill moving foward. If you got a ngk cap then just screw it into the HT lead from the coil,if its the old style with a rubber boot and a metal clip to fasten to the Ht lead the triangle gets pushed into the cable( kinda crapy personaly I would fit a NGK) and crimp it tight

Ehm the condenser is droping it's charge to early...= bad condenser. Timing can't fix that.

POKE>>>POKE >>>>BIG POKE WTF DID THIS FALL OFF YOUR TD LIST? ehhhhhhmmm please finnish OK so I'm not so good with "nice" kill me. Girl we wan't the job done....... right Updates when???