dt502001

Have you got your bike back yet? or a estimate on how much tis is going to cost?

Hi 1the cam chain is self adjusting 2 The valves are shim style adjusted ( requires pulling the cam shafts after measuring if wrong 2-4 thou intake 4-6 exhaust) 3 Don't mess with the air fuel scerws untill you find your vaccum leak,that is most likely why it's idling at 3k, try spraying wd 40 around the intake manifold 1 at a time and if the idle drops then you found it 4 Have you tried new spark plugs? 5 how in the hell did you take off only 2 carbs? They are on a rack of 4 as far as I know

3 ideas 1 cdi is nfg 2 your wireing job 3 pick up coil is sending wrong signal to cdi

Looks great.... that vinyl job look as good as new in fact the whole bike looks new,now to get it dirty havin fun

LMAO yep or as I say when asked.... how tight should this be.....,tighten it up till it breaks then back it off a 1/4 turn

This is a classic case of you let too many thing's go un attened, and now your at their mercy,or take a day or 2 sick leave and fix it all no matter how long it takes If when the light's/horn went you could have spent some time trying to figuer it out, if you couldn't get it right then you could at least say you tried then send it in. But I am sure with the wealth of knowlage here you could have done it. Same with bash plate and stand. When you needed the chain and sprockents done if you had done that yourself then you would be familar with the break down and reassembly,and the brake pads are only a matter of pullin a pin out and drop the old pads out,clean pistons push them back and install new quite straight foward. The $$$$$ your spending on labour could have gone into some good tools that would last a life time,you need a torque wrench to adjust you chain properly or your going to kill your new wheel bearings ( I say this because you have most likely been over loading the bearings by over tighting the axel) wheel bearing can last the life of the bike if properly adjusted and greased..And novices tend to go way over kill on tighting things up. I am not saying you stupid for getting a shop to do this for you but ,If you break it down to what you can doo yourself and not get the shop to do it ,it will save you a few $$ On the positive your bike is new enough that everything should come appart as it should so no hidden cost there.Hopefully the electric's will be related to the head lamp replacement and just loose /disconected wires. Good luck with this 1 Grouch but as said time to start getting dirty fingers.A little OCD when owning a bike is a good thing

That was the first up grade i did too, mine is fitted with the auto decompression as it's 01 no e start ,works a charm. $1000.00 for a 290 kit I would like to see some dyno charts befor jumping in on that, missed out riding one fitted with it by a day,1 was up for sale localy and couldn't get to the guy's house before he sold it Ken put it this way my bud who weighs in at 300+lbs rides a crf 250x 2010 and it pulls him NP bone stock,but my wr is faster IMO than the uni cam and the wr turns faster/easier. Also the honda feels too soft in the suspension department every time I jump it

Just a guess but could it be for the rear fender/signal mount,or head light bucket mount?

Haha the advantage of being slightly deaf nothing sounds too loud to me. The neighbours will get used to it,besides can't be worse than the guy who has to cut his grass early every sat morning for a hour,every neighbourhood has 1

Sounds nice not realy any louder,,,hate that floating notice in the flick never figured out what it said

Lmao more midrange,mine with a stage 2 porting pulls your arms off ,mind I am running a 52 rear sprocket. Ken they just pull and pull and can be geared for what ever type of speed you want,but they are way more fun blasting from corner to corner and out of the corner than running top speed.

Have you done a compression test?

What tail light are you running?is it stock and if so what year? Nice looking bike btw How much more power with the 290cc kit and fmf power bomb.

Longer studs would be the simple soloution,put good heat to the old ones and they will come out.

Back order + very slow boat from japan=long wait ..

He was ssszzzznoring.

Been following looks great

Make the hole the same size in the gasket as the manofild

Just for perspective I pay 78.00 a year for road tax on my dodge dakota v6 3.9lt 9(but I could drive a viper or hummer for the same) and 35.00 every 2 years for a emmission test,,,,,706.00 for insurance,,,,gas right now is between 1.11 to 1.30 per lt And I live in ontario with the highest taxes in Canada Edit and you only have to mto a vehicle 1 time when you buy it 65.00 Your all getting fucked tax tax tax tax..and wait tax the tax

Hey Grouch a couple of ?? 1 does the bike turn over on low beam? but not start 2 If you pull in the clutch in netural will the bike turn over on low beam? 3 By side light do you mean the signals and is it just the front or front and rear? And do the signal work? 4 Can you start the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in?

I was thinking along the line of injector needle not seating due to deposits,leaking fuel,have you tried injector cleaner?

Then you did it wrong,when adjusting the valves they need to be done with each valve in it's fully seated position, by rotating the eng to the proper position on the flywheel. Most will have marks I and E. This will take much longer than 5 min

Klum sorry I didn't mean turn it all the way in just a 1/2 or so more in to increase the idle. If you have turned it all the way in the bike should be running very high idle,is it ? If so turn it back out untill the bike idles nicely. The pump you speak of is the accelerator pump for a quick shot of gas between throttle openings,if it's leaking then it should be fixed.

Lucky guy what a fun road wish I lived there.

Hi crossplane,check the injectors for leaking.