dt502001

for 200 I can't see how you could go wrong,clean the carbs and new battery,get it running and sell it on for a nice profit.

I had that problem too adjust the size for internet viewing befor trying to load to photobucket

Well thats good wouldn't want to see you get hurt, dont let it get that loose next time

As long as the sump pan is the same size then all is good,the oil drains back when it's not running. Post a hello in new members section most other members won't answer otherwise

If as you said it didn't take much effort to strip it out then you have found your problem, don't take it back to the original mechanic if he had the tools nessary to do tis he would have fixed it the first time right. Find a reputable machine shop to do it. OOPS you guys call them enginiers...... same /different. It has to be 100% straight or the head will warp

Well that sucks ,only1 thing to do pull of the cylinder and helicoil it,looks like your doing the whole job. it's easier than you think just ask for help and we will guide you,the only semi hard part is fiting the cylinder over the rings.

Now now don' t b in such a rush... say hello

Did you adjust the chain? It's going to fall off soon !

Realy you should just return it to the "mechanic" you asked for the over heating problem to be fixed.. and it wsn't so it's his/her missed fault find and it was not fixed right?

might want to check your water pump while your at it, been following and your 1 st prob was over heating, a small scratch in the head /cyllnder alowing coolant to be perssiursed could cause tis porblem

Contact your local bike dealer do not atempt this yourself !

Not to be rude but the spring is clearly visable in the pict,well at least the 1 that air is speaking of . If removed then it might lift out.

Nope Grouch gotta rage the shit out of a 2t just to make it run right now and then,god's honest

Well thats fine no mto so how do they ride test a dirt bike? say after a transmission rebuild.That just BS if they can't ride it they could at least run it on a stand/rolling road ect. When it got hot it would have leaked out of the cap,I don't think they even bothered to check thier work A top end rebuild IMO includes a coolant leak check,if it didn't leak before the repair then it most certinaly shouldn't after. If it did then they should have fixed it as thats what you asked to be done. If they rebuild it and it pisses out all the coolant then it will blow up again so that would mean they did it WRONG as the top end is part of the cooling system.So leagly they don't have a leg to stand on. I would take pictuers and demand a refund for a new rad cap,lost coolant. Then jump on board with beef and find someone close to helpin the future. The more I hear about shops your way the more I understand why you guys need/should to do it yourself.

If only the last few threads are nfg what i have done is to file them flat/tapered so starting the nut only contacts the lowest part of the undammaged thread,run it in and out a few times with a different nut or if you have a die better. Hope it goes together better next time.

Just a after thought look at the tabs that hold the cap to the rad if the are bent (not 90 degreese) you might be able to bend it back. To use untill you get a new 1.. Slice is right they ducked it up they should fix it,but after the mess they have done so far I wouldn't let them work on it anymore. A proper repair includes a road test and all of this would have been noticed by a compent mechanic and repaired before returning it to you.

You twits it's a pict of a r1,he's pulling your leg

Well if the rad cap cant seal then it needs to be replaced,it will leak past and out the over flow. I realy wonder about that shop.

WOW it's in such good shape,too bad the tank badges are missing that will be a rare find

Hey Jdog welcome why don't you start a thread in projects,with some picts,don't worry about how it looks nobody here judges.You couldn't have found a better place for info on the dt175 abit of a cult following here I personaly would love to see the jt ,so many memories. Check out FAQ for how to post picts

There were parts for sale

Well let that be a lesson learned never run the bike with water,anit freeze also lowers the operating temp not just keep it from freezing. Did the vibes go away?

Hmm sounds like a perfect set up to run in ET,drive it out of the hole like a sunday cruise and run consistant low/mid 17.00's thats how trophys are won. No need to sand bag it. had a girl at our local D/S ooo 14yrs ago and she won the ET series on a kaw 440 never did a burn out,never tried to launch,just deep stage the bike and cut 500's and drive to the other end. I bet she never went .02 different and won more races on her R/T. Be neat to see a 175 win a ET series against 1300's,pro bikes with studder boxes,shift lights,air shifters ect that would piss off a few guys. Fair to assume that you have picked up at least 3- 5 hp to be able to gain 1/2 second and 10mph,pretty cool for just exhaust and intake work. You haven't shaved the head or anything else? Like stuff the crank area ,altered the port timming,bigger carb,porting? I would be inclined to clean up the stock porting( the stock casting is poorly done) not mod it just make it right. And add a ram air intake for track use. As these dt'skeep poping up more and more you might want to see if there is a intrest in your pipe design and make a few,guy's could keep thier stock pipe for shows and from rotting and gain a few hp,or in the case of no pipe left to work with an alternative. Any way I take it your going back to the larger rear sprocket and shooting for the 16's lets us know how it goes

when you buy oil look on the back it will say x oil for y gas

haha you'll get to work with a message to report to the local cop shop to pick up your speeding ticket,with the message CC to your insurance. No thanks seen enough people get into trouble watching the gps instead of the road, to me riding is all about the simplisity of man and machine no need for any computers