dt502001

If you have a good runing motor don't piss with it,rebuilds dont always go as planed. Just fix what needs to be fixed. Get a compression tester and Check the compression ,HOLD THE throttle wide open Crank the eng over 5-7 x's and,all spark plugs out when your doing this, and if it is above 120 psi thats good.. 150 is top shelf ...90psi she needs a rebuild. Testing it hot/warm and cold will give you the best results to determin if it needs a rebuid.

Dont weld it up ,if you do,, that will be the first place it rust's,,,just clamp it with a band/sleeve type clamp.

Realy Grouch I hope all goes well for you,if anyone desreves it your in the line of people. Selling the XT might pose a problem though I might know/heard of that bike" U know what hell it put him through

Groucho if you dont take it to a authorised service center to have the documents to prove it's ben serviced you loose your warrenty,at first service they..well are supossed to.. check every nut and bolt,re set the steering head bearings ,adjust/ check valves clearences ect ..its not just a oil change,and if you bought it from a reptuable company then they will put the most expensive oil in. Realy wish you had asked about how to buy a new bike lots of tips I /we could have given you so you got the best deal. As far as breaking in the new motor just run it light,no hammering the throttle wfo in first to 6th,but dont be afarid to run it to red line now and then under light throttle if it breaks then it was ment to and you have warrenty,as long as you follow the rules ie get it serviced by the dealer so much easier to make a claim if needed a few bucks now could save you tons later

K i think you may have given us a clue you say you can rotate the power valve,that would mean it's not locked in any 1 position,your missing the pullie that attaches to the PV so you have no means to lock it wide open,if its floating around and doing as it pleases then ...well its just wrong. Find a way to lock it in the fully open position.

No the pump is in the motor under the righ cover in front of the clutch AS BLACKHAT said. The oil tank was attached to the air box and a line running to the pump. The rattle might be normal the old air cooled motors were quiet noisey,but to pull the top end off is quite easy to check what you have. LMao too loud of exhaust it's a stock pipe on the bike and other than repacking the silencer thats what any proper pipe will sound like,cork it up and you loose power. How big were the bottels of 2t oil seem rather rich of a mix for 2 gallons,I know a imperial gallon is different but???? 40 to 1 is still 40 parts gas to 1 part oil. Ya might need to get the caculator out and fix that mix. Or your going to eat spark plugs from fouling.Normaly bottles of oil have a chart on the back X oil to X gas=40:1

Presistonance pays off,may many learn from yours. Thanks for sharing what you found and how to fix it.

LMAO if he or anyone thinks they are going to ride.. that bike with that exhaust on the stret without getting pulled by the cops ..most likely pushing 150 DBA,still not a bad find .. now that I have seen it better i dont think I would have gone 700 more like 5 .BWTH its winter so lots of time to fix er up

Nope you can pull the pan by removing one frame rail exhaust ect,no need to pull the whole motor. Thoe you have to fix the exhaust stud so might as well will be easier to fix the stud that way

It may have been raining but not related,also currious as to how the PV could have ""kicked in"... when it ...so far in this thread has been disconected missing parts and pinned???????

I am thinking Blackhat hit it on the nail head...pis pore seal on the choke ..by passing the other circuts and over fueling the motor

So much fun being monitered. Grouch fun much so ru

I can tell you for sure it's a IT look at the gas tank it's plastic.+ CORRECT FENDERS The oil tank would have been attachet to the air box on the right hand side of the box,find a picture of one/or just make a box that will fit in the space behind the carb and make it out of aluminum/tin and fit a big air filter one from a 125/250yz wod sufice,the air intake to feed the carb keep it as straight a fit you can make If the pump is there DO NOT hook it up untill you remove it and,dissamble it, clean it,check it for scores in the bore of the pump or it will cause SQUEEKKKKKKKKK,THUD/ BANG Now you have it running the first thing you should check is,, the left hand side crank seal(sitting on the bike) pull the cover of and spray some wd-40 at it while its running if it changes revs then it's ,gone hard and needs to be replaced.If you dont it will go BANG

Hi

Welcome to the YOC

I had one of them was my first ice bike ran mine as Airhead said 40:1 on standard oil and 50:1 on synthetic. for the gear box any brand 2stroke gear box oil will do I used Bel Ray as it was the races choice of oil back then. I would suggest getting a air filter on it even a cone style would be better than nothing,but if you can put the box back on. Ps it's nice if you do a intro in the new members section,you know hi I am and I ...............

Well that tells me its rich,go down 1 size on the main jet,put the clip of the needle in the middle and set the A?F screw at 1.5 turn out from fully seated.New plug and go again . What ratio are you mixing your fuel at?

I noticed your welds are all to cold most likely the result of using a long cord to run the welder always best to plug the welder into the outlet directly

Comming along nicely Laura,if you want mirror like finnish on the cases you will need compound and a buffing pad with how nice a job you have done so far would be well worth going the extra step ,makes it much easier to shine back up when installed. I like your aproch to fixing this bike up,you spent your money well on getting a pro paint job and saved a ton by putting in the labour to polish everything up your self.Atacking the rust and cleaning it up instead of striping and powder coating the frame cost effective and looks good. Your putting some of the lads to shame,especialy with how fast your getting it all done,and the level of the quality job.

All quite minnor stuff then,the body work is worth what you paid for the bike alone, in parts it worth at least 2 k I know you got it for your brolaw but the fact that it has original body work/paint makes it much more valuable than yours to a collector.Are you sure you don't want to sell him yours and keep this one I would

I would say you got a great deal on it then,how many kms, where'd you find it KIJIJI or bay

If ya don't mind what did you get it for,it looks good,i too am from the slab gen my 86 fz 6 and 85 gsxr 750 both bikes were great and I kinda still like the slabe look. And fox eyes are still cool to me

Good move Groucho hope all goes well for you,take the time and fix the xt so you learn and have a backup bike for when the new 1 never lets you down but will eventualy and for gods sake I hope that its many miles down the road

I hear alot about ppl needing a stove to bake parts to cure parts/paint and the wife wont let you . Soulition check your local paper or net source and get free stoves,people are giving them away weekly I got 2 in a week other parts might be broken but as long as the stove works then a few bucks to go get them is ,,well free IMO if you can run a few parts through them and then scrap the stove collect your $$ for the metal For ppl who live on this side of the pond try KIJIJ free stuff under the clasified every day someone seems to be giving 1 away Likie this one http://london.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-home-appliances-stoves-ovens-ranges-stove-W0QQAdIdZ543200239

LOL just like a kid waiting for x mass then eh! I am fairly new to the whole ordering on line thing,how has your experience been about returning things for warrenty so many scams going on I wonder if I had to return something if it would ever get done.I reciently bought a couple of knock off cell phones both working fine for the 3 weeks Ive had em and so cheap that if they do break don't know id be be bothered but currious if you have and how it went.