dt502001

What way am I looking at the motor? as it would be in the bike?

clock wise

Slightly rotate it off tdc to slack the chain between the cams

Forget all that you need to turn the motor over so the lobes arent pushing down the valve/springs open the left cover and turn/rotate over the motor

Your sure you got the cam tensioner out? the chain between the cams should be slack enough to lift the chain off and rol the cam out to the middel

See what looks like nuts on the cam shaft rotate the intake foward this will slacken the chain

haha yep the part that the oil filter cover bolt screws into looks like a big nut 17mm if you remove it then the whole thing comes off in 1 piece,lines cooler and oil filter housing not all yam 600's used a oil cooler so it a bolt on accessorie.

drewps was talking about the nut that the oil filter spins onto. Pm sent about cams

Yep get it out and strip the top end and figure out what rings you need and have it honed. Also consider having the valves re cut A tip for keeping track of the bolts is to get card board and punch holes in it and put the bolts in as to where they come from. Your motor comes out the bottom nice and easy just put a jack under and lower it out some extra hands will deffo help just to steady it on the jack.No real need for stands.

These guys do a full kit for 300 us + 165 to install the sleve in the barrel http://www.lasleeve.cc/index.cfm?event=product.display&product_ID=8383 These guys do a big bore 265cc for 450. completehttp://kustom-kraft.com/SUZUKIKITS.html. Bet he will be wishing he change the piston at the recomended service interval after he see's how much it's going to cost to fix now.

+1 with BH the only way to do it is a full tear down,gona have a look but almost positive that the cylinder is Nic plated so no option of rebore and with the skirts smashed off it has to be a loose bore as AH pointed out ,,or the piston was run way to long.

14yr olds who can drive better than most who have a licence http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UVEMqOKm8M&list=PLDbSvEZka6GGAXfmVg1EAyFcaA23bNUoX

For what a old used motor will cost you your better off just rebuilding your's yep iot might cost a few hundred more but it will be fresh and making full Hp. How long till the move to steel town? If you get all the parts you need,rings ,seals gasket kit, I can drive up and put it together in a day,you buy the beer and burgers. Ya a compression test will show how well the entire top end is sealing,same with a pressure test/leak down test.The difference between a 2t and a 4t is that the crank seals realy arent improtant to the overall running of the motor just keep oil in in a 4t. A 2t however if the crank seal leak then air gets in to the fuel mix and leans the bike out= melted pistons,crank con rod bearing dammage

Yep the guy who stole it from the bike has one.LOL Its Xmass day so I be nice,, first best just to say hi and tell the club about yourself. then post your questions and needs it the proprer section's Eg wanted in wanted,repair advice -workshop. Merry x mass and welcome to the club

Ok klume so the bike could sit and idle all day and not have the problem and it only happens when you ride the bike? Thinking back your bike should have a clutch saftey switch any road bike built after say 1980 has one someone has removed it.

Ya I love from 10 min on how his tire's are hot and he keeps eatin the bigger cc bike in the cornners, them cr 500 in a 450f frame are a wicked toy.The bike in the vido has been converted cant even find a 500cr now to stuff ina 450 frame this side they were such monsters not many were purchased.Just like the 490 yz and kx 500. But I'm not giveing up a 490 in my wr 250 will be wicked if I ever find one for the right price. The thing's are worth as much or more now than new

API = american petrolium instute.... ios = international standerds. The rest I copied fromhttp://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/view/6/267/TST5L NOTE THE SHELF LIFE it might be bad by now if not stored proprely. TWO WHEEL 2 STROKE MINERAL APPLICATION • Low ash mineral oil for two stroke petrol engines (motorcycles, mopeds, cars, lawnmowers etc) requiring an oil of this type and quality level. • Good lubricity through specially selected mineral basestocks. • Helps prevent spark plug whiskering and corrosion. SPECIFICATIONS • API TC • JASO FB • ISO-L-EGB TYPICAL INSPECTION DATA Specific gravity at 20°C 0.880 Viscosity @ 100°C 10.9 cSt Colour Green IMPORTANT • The engine manufacturer’s recommendations on mixture ratios should be observed. HANDLING • Avoid extremes of temperature. • Store under cover. SHELF LIFE • Five years from date of manufacture. • Date of manufacture can be identified from a five figure code printed on the bottle. The first three

Ya I never liked a kit that had drill n bits in it,normaly just new needles and jets,, didnt know that the exup 1000 kit requierd drilling I always stay clear of the "tuneing Kits ' that need that type of work for the same reason. Just cause they work in Callifornia dosent mean they work in Canada or GB Dam you could sell the chain alone and get almost 1/3 of your cash back the guy must have been hurting for cash. O well his loss is your gain

I have never seen them come with the crank,shifter ,output shaft ,rings,,ect seals,normaly just the valve seals ,valve cover,head and paper gaskets. Maybee ryan has found something different?

Minneral 2t oils have different ash content depending on what they are used for,not saying you cant use it but best to use the free suff in something like a lawn morow than blow up a good bike eng for the sake of a few bucks. Most companys die there oils so they are easly reconised and has nothing to do with the quality. EG belly ray has alwasy been blue,royal purpel is purpel,castrol is greenish What you need to look at is the rating of the oil thats the roung circle on the back and has letters in it as long as it meets or exceeds the requirement's set by the factory then its good Edit sfg can be used in a eng requiring sff but not in a eng needing sfh and sfh can be used in both of the formentioned eng's. Thats why synethitic oils have become so popular they just about go with any requirments and mix well.

Drewpy you mean you cant get thesehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZ-600-2HW-1986-1987-Aftermarket-Gasket-Set-/150932536404 took me 2 seconds to find and came up UK.

How will you know if it works at this time of year,short of a compression test? and even that wont be very accurate as you have no Idea as to how fast the "glue" works or for how long. Rip it down now and get it done before the riding season I know your moving so thats a PITA but a few bins from wally mart and you could keep it all from getting lost in the move, a gasket is a gasket save for the head gasket that can varry in quality but as the factorys dont make thiere own any way,they source them from "huck bonig yeppie" so i cant see why it would be a big problem. Post a links to what gasket kits your looking at?,Then if someone has used them they could tell you why they are junk or not For my stuff I normaly use factory head gasket and crank seals but the rest I would use anything that fit.I have built many a motor wit aftermarket kits and had no problems,in some cases the repro stuff has been fixed/made better that OE because they see where it failed and fixed it so it wouldn't again. And as far as slowing time down too late ...I set the time /matter accelerator to warp so spring comes faster 16 more weeks at least befor we will see roads worthy of riding ...so with the accelerator set at warp it will be only 14 weeks,unless the ground gog see's his shadow then it will only be 14 weeks . Just for thoes who wouldnt or dont know we have this stupid tradition that on a day in febuary if the groundhog Wiraton Willy http://www.southbrucepeninsula.com/en/wiartonwillie/welcome.aspsee his shadow then only 12 more weeks till spring,if he dosent then 12 more weeks of winter.Either way it still 12 weeks.

Nsd why swap batteries,a battery with a intermet short of the plates would cause the whole bike to shut off.I still think it a carb problem

Yep exactly what I said Blackhat It is amazing how many people dont think about if your not looking at where you want to go you will never end up there. And vise versa if your looking at it then you will most likely end up there..All the kids I have tought/ teach I drill it into thier heads DO NOT LOOK WHERE YOU DONT WANT TO GO. Find your escape route with your eyes and your bike will follow more or less most peeps arent using 1/2 of the traction they have when corrnering.The no brake test shows that,if I am just riding around I hardly use the brakes at all,mainly to avoid cages who cut me off,Now if I am carving then thats another story,I can mid corrner brake comfortably at any lean angle,or power drift to square out a corrner.Part of the reason why I dont think a 125 is a good bike to learn on for the street just not enough power. As Rz jeff said you shouldnt bee thinking about what your doing but 3 steps ahead,if your thinking about what your doing ATM then its too late,your in survival mode just trying not to crash

Holy duck you got that for 250 or about 500 here what a steal Happy earlie Merry hohoho,not quite sure why you dont like dyno jet kits if done properly they work well.