dt502001

All the old sins of wear and tear/rotting are gone. Just fantastic what a fresh coat of paint can doo. Good things come to thoes who wait,,,,, a year is nothing for perfection,esp considering the hunting and sorting to make other parts work on a bike of that age.and still look correct.Lucky lad to have a great DAD like you. So come monday she will be back in one piece then( ok I know you could have it done in a day but you cant rush perfection) and the picts will be up,and you can get on with the real project of a 72 hp 1988 fz 600.

For that kinda money you could build one from scratch

Ha 1/2 inch of snow we dont even get the winter boots out for that.Got about 3.5 feet of snow in the yard and for wierd weather it's suposed to go up to7 morrow that should make a real nice mess storm drain's will be overflowing.

When installing the plain plates they have a sharp and rounded edge(mostlikely the dipel side) sharp goes in.

So you have built a few motors in your day how do you like to run them in?

Erum I hope you mean 16 guage steel,,1/16 th is like paper,,, not exacty sure but would be like 28-30 guage steel

Yep groucho all you need is recipets to prove what and when it was done, i cant see why if the first service is just a oil change you couldn't video it for proff. Things might be different here to there though,, first service here the shop is to go over the whole bike nut and bolt and check em so nothing is falling off or about to.and check the valve adjustment. I have never run a bike more than 100 kms before droping the oil and filter new or rebuilt then run it like you would normaly. If after 100kms the rings haven't set in or there were to be any bearing problems then they should have shown up by then. Think about it 1000rpm for 1 hour the piston has made 120000 strokes in the cylinder,4000 rpm and well just do the math if it was going to break it would have by now. If you read your owner manual it should have a spot to fill in for a optional early 1st service,dump the crap oil out and put it on full synethetic oil it's worth every penny. By prolonging the full revs IMO you are not setting the ring land/wear in the bore of the cylinder high. and possibly could have a top ring clip the edge that gets created in the cylinder when you do rev the crap outa it.

Interesting Cynic can't say I've seen that happen,but if it were jammed on the push rod would the clutch not be disengauged? as the cam of the actuating arm would be set in a position to hold the rod out,,, in effect holding the pressure plate off the clutch pack?

What type of metal? If they use galvy you wont be able to weld it on.

Cool steve,finding the rd in the first picture was like find waldo you know it there but where? We never got the 250s just the 350's do the 350 barrels not fit the 250 bottem end? With this big of a project why not fit the 350 T/E

K I had to turn on easy share on p bucket and the size of the original make a difference as to how big it will show up here,But thanks Tommy I finnaly can post picts. And steve c for bringing this frustrating topic up againg I read the FAQ and had my son read it and neither of us could get it right,cause we kept getting a code or blue link and no picture so we never hit post !!!Today I just said F it and hit post walla it worked. So pretty much I had it right just didn't think I did. Now to dare and try to share a u tube vid

aw crap not big enough

Just for you drew not sure if you call them flat or not

Well tickel me pink and slap my ass it worked I just couldnt see it untill I hit POST so ove course I have to do it againg just to see if it was a 1 time thing

ok i'll give it a go your way tommy. Well that didnt work very well did it!http://i1051.photobucket.com/albums/s426/phil1200/meandmybikeandtruckhouse004.jpg and neither did that!http://s1051.photobucket.com/user/phil1200/media/meandmybikeandtruckhouse004.jpg.html o0r this or this or this http://s1051.photobucket.com/user/phil1200/media/014compresed.jpg.html or this or this or this

Well look at the diagram it's prety straight foward,cable pulls arm,arm pushes rod ,rod pushes bearing ,bearing pushes adjustable set screw. that releases the pressure plate. So what is it that you missed when assembeling it,set screw for pressure plate turn in till snugh and back off 1/8th of a turn and lock nut down the rest of the adjustment is made with the cable,there just isn't many varriables.

I have been trying for years to get it right and when the site droped my avatar days ago I had to re do it and the url didn't work from pbucket kept saying that the link couldn't be contacted,,I had to use the direct link.2nd option of the 4. on pbucket Like thishttp://i1051.photobucket.com/albums/s426/phil1200/014compresed.jpg it worked to get my avatar up but I still cant get photos to post in a thread from pbucket.

Hes had the whole motor appart and moved around probably just fell out and rolled off and missed it when reassemebling.

Ok drew is way better at finding diagrams and it has to be missing the ball bearing then. Common thing for people to loose

Or the ball bearing got lost

If the arm can move up and down more than a wee bit 1/16th then the e clip has come off the bottom of the arm that keeps it in place in the case. You should be able to hold it down though and get the clutch to release,if not then you didn't adjust the set screw in the pressure plate proprely.

Power commanders can be programed to run stock like setting for e testing and then switched back for power all done quite easy.V&H worked with power commander so it should work well together,,, honestly cant say though as the bolt is new. I hope you like loud pipes.

so the lever has poped out and now pressed tight against the cylinder?

Ok dokie it's a push type.did the arm the cable attaches to pop out of the case?