dt502001

HI what campman ment was not to post your original question in the new members section but to introduce yourself,,you know I am I know sfa about bikes Ihave been riding____yrs. Click edit at the bottom and giver another go. But I'll give you a e for effort LOL welcome to the club

I am confused can you post pictuers( read FAQ in new members),there shouldn't be any hole in the float it's self.

Ok so everything you have said so far would make me think you have a sound knowlege, when jetting did you play with needle height settings before changing jet sizes? Many time I have been given a bike that someone has over jetted when a needle adjustment was all that was needed. A 270 main sounds too big to me unless you live in the mountians. I would do a wide open top gear plug chop as suggested,2 stroke work best when run lean ,too lean and they blow up.Anyone who dosent belive this, just try driving with the throttle at one spot and shut your fuel off ,as the carb empties you will see the rpm go up with no throttle adjustment for a short time

That is one sorry mess of neglect,he would be better to eliminate the oil cooler if he can't aford to replace the lines they look like if you looked at them to long they would develop a leak. Nothing left to work with on the ex stud so thats going to need to be drilled out,and by the looks of thing over all time to change them all. Would hate to try and put it back together only to another one snap off,now while you can get heat into them easy would be the time to do it, Iknow I wouldnt put it back together with the old ones. Good luck with it.

Good on you,I always end up doing more than what people ask for just cant help myself from not fixing things that arent right but simple to fix up,makes people want to come back and spend more without haveing to ask them.And any excuse to hang out in the man cave is a good one,and you will keep honeing your skills at the same time.

Oh yes they can the stroke of the pump is to long re shim it to take the stroke out,bet someone had it appart and didn't put them back in.The alingment marks are to set the rotation the pump,, stroke length determins how much oil gets injected,per stroke. easy fix if you follow the book.

Tommy so true not even a sorry my bad just a re post,but if he pulls the`fly wheel where his problem is as he has stated it must be then why ask for help. A not working netural circut could not be a problem, and adding new points and rotor cap surely will help it run better on a 1980 bike with cdi ignition thats normaly the problem but he didn`t ask nice or I would have told him that first And bashed Calum for not paying attention

So sad you just know thiere was a bike or 2 in there thats is worth a fortune but no one knew it and by now its a tin can.

No it`s not welded,its rusted spray with penetrating lube and keep tring to rotate it, worse case put nut back on a bit And tap with hammer and a block of hard wood.

Ok skippy here is how we play in the sand box nicely around here 1st you go to new members section post a little hello and some basic back ground info about yourself . Then the other nice people here will say hi back and welcom you to the CLUB (note I said CLUB not repair on demand ) Then you post your question in the workshop section (Not projects this is where people share pictures and post thier progress on a PROJECT bike) are and the nice people, who can help you with the information your looking for, come along and give you advice on how to fix your bike,of which there are many,rude people who barge in and just start demanding information normaly just get ignored. We welcome all who want to be part of the club.

Pretty sure if you measure the distance between head studs you will see they are different on all 3 motors,as the bore increaces the farther appart they are. for sure the 900 will be. and if the 750 is the same then you would need the crank as they stroked the motor and then it would have to fit in the cases not worth the hassel

Yes it's the same set the eng at tdc and find the reference marks on the cams before you pull them out. Checking the valve clearence before pulling them out is a good idea as well so if it needs a valve adjust now is the time to do it.

Nice job so far.The frame numbers can be made more visible by using a etching acid,as you can see that they are original I wouldn't give anyone a hard time doing a mto but thats me,as DDT said be woth running it down and see what your inspector says befor going farther. One of the members here did his own plastic wrap to his DT and it looked good,he just bought sheets of 3m wrap and with a heat gun and I am sure alot of time did a great job. The spray on plastic dip is something I would consider,or hydro diping it all.

Fuck yea 1000 hp mini that can jump I want one, I know I Know the only thing that is probably from a mini is the badge on the front but still cool,,

Hy Ryan welcome on,all i can offer is to go to your local dealer they can print off wireing diagrams and sit down and work it out. The 3 white will be for the voltage reg and the blue with bullet netural,mabey some of the others here who know the bike better can help more.

Steph no shame in doing it from a kit, I tried doing it from scratch with hops and wasn't happy with the results so gave up after about 4 months and just buy the caned wert,there are so many that you can try that sooner or later you will find one you realy like. And works for me in the K.I.S.S. fashion I like I have about 5 different kinds of brew around most of the time One tip is to transfer your brew 3-4 times before bottleing, let each batch settel for a day before transfering again and leave as much of the settelments behind by cutting your hose on a angle so it dosent collect directly from the bottom sure you loose a few pints but it's worth it to have a clear beer. I start all mine in plastic buckets and then after 5 days transfer to a carboy let stand for 7( or till it stops bubbeling) then start the transfering. Thats something I wish I had known when I first started and had some brews that had junk floating in ,I followed the instructions but they failed to add that information. I figured it out after a few months kinda of by accident was going to bottle one day but got too busy and had to leave it for a day and noticed that it settelted again. Good luck and happy brewing ..Oh just in case your not familiar with the kiss (Keep it simple stupid) as smart as I think I am I know it's the best way to do anything, no point in reinventing the wheel EH?

She's a beauty,try not to pich this one down the road on her side

Oh boy my memory is gone but here goes Articat 5hp 1974 honda xr 70 1975 kawak kx80 1978 suzi rm 80 suzi rm 125 yam yz125 yam it 175 1981 Honda cb360t 1975? suzi gs 750 1978 yam rd 350 1980+1981 yam rd400 1977 yam rd 350 1978 yam rz 350 1983& 4 kawak gpz 750 1981 honda nsr 400 1987? hated the fucking thing only bike was happy to get ridof,now wish I had it rare bike susi gs750 1983 yamfz600 1986 suzi gsxr 750 1985 &6 yamxs400 1982? yam rz 350 1988 suzi gs1100 1981 yam wr250f 2001 suzi gsf1200 2001 Thoes are the bikes I owned and rode,cant remember all the one's I bought and fixed and sold and I probably missed something

The reverse bearing is stuck. Or you could try adjustint the pressure plate set screw.Hellos are always nice in the new members section

HAha OLD But funny that he cant even do a burnout/brake stand.Loud pipes just make the cops look too,driving in the right spot helps more so the dumb asses se you in thire mirrors??? if they bother to use them

Oh yes they dont come gaped for every application and different gaps make the plug work different.You can get a coin style gap tool for a few bucks,it's a must have tool. durring shipping they can be dammaged ,hence why a brand new plug wont work sometimes. Or the gap can be less if the box has been droped.Don't ever install a plug without checking the gap.Over time the fireing of the plug open's the gap by burning the electrode away ! Any time you install a new plug it should be checked for proper gap as per the bikes requirements,and opening the gap makes the plug hotter, Indexing the plug makes a big difference on how well it works too reseacrch it. They sell shims to properly Index the plug.

I would just get a real pry bar that can take the force without bending a nice 3 foot bar and then you will have the leverage and they will pop out,just put some hard wood under so you dont mark up the fork leg

Oh I make lots of beer lots of beer too,, alwasy 12 gallons on the go every 2 weeks cost about 4 bucks a gallon IMO its better than the store bought cause it dosent have any presertives. I can drink alot more without the hangoverActualy it probably cost me next to nothing for everyone who puts money in the tip/honor jar . Drew you should try the lighting turbo yeast then a 6 gallon demi glass 9kg of corn sugar ( dextrose) and a air lock is all you need, if you wanted to do small batches of white lighting then a small electrical burner still is all you need, you could make a mash out of corn and molasssas to 80-90% lots of info on utube about how to make 1 from a stainless steel bowl and pot.And run it in the garage with the doors open don't want to blow the house upLOL. But do the researsh about head,heart and tails,the first 100ml or so is poision,and tails taste crapy.Lighting is a aquired taste though, Iwould send you some but something tells me that the customs would be a problem Fomas everyone who has ever done some home brewing has a story about the time something blew up,One of my first batche of beer I thought I would add just a bit more priming sugar to speed up the carbonation process,woke up to BANG,BANG<BANG the bottles were blowing the caps off.But it sounded more like someone was firing a .22 off,only good part was that I only did a 24 not the whole batch,but I must have looked funny running around in my undies with my shot gun,I know I got a laugh.

Just finnished my first batch of lighting turbo yeast,added some bannans (4) and WOW is it good got a SG of .90 or slightly less( actualy i dont know cause my hydrometer stops at .90 and it sank lower by a good cm) it's got a punch . so some where in the 35% ABV range 23 liters for about 20 bucks in 9 days 9 kg of suggar and add the lighting turbo yeast,it the simplest shine I have ever made Started a second batch with pears,and 1 with nothing but suggar to see how clean it come out and might try running it through a still to make fuel JR Johnson style No riding after a glass of this shit LOL

Hi Chilli always nice when some say hi First befor they dive into" why wont this work" or how do I make my 125 do 100 mph LOL