dt502001

Got to love track days,get to ride your bike the way you want without the fear of getting tickets.Everyone who hasn't been to one should make the next local one thier #1 plan for that weekend you won't stop smileing for days.

drop 1 tooth off the front or add 3 to the rear and you get about the same result. That said the front will be cheaper and easier to change back and forth if your going on a long trip where you wouldn't want to be reving so high in top gear. You would probably also need an longer chain to fit in a bigger rear

Well I can tell you here they are just a bunch of lazy donut eating bums. When I was 16 the same cop pulled me over every week for months untill if filed a complaint,then on of his buddys pulled me over 3 time in a week on my way to work and I got fired for being late. And never once did I get a ticket. Just power hungery dicks. Had a bike stolen when I was 25 and they didn't even come out they gave me a incident # and said if they find the bike they would call me,my bud seen the bike in a garage one day when the jerk who stole left his bay door open called me and I went and took my bike. The cops show up at my house and were going to charge me with theft and assalt. I ended up with a asault charge and prohibited from owning a fire arm. I never had a gun in my life and I only pushed the jerk out of my way to get on my bike. And he never got charged. 2 years ago I was help my dad working for a repo company cleang out house's and found a rifle so I call the cops and tell them ,the woman cop who answered the call sugested I just bring it to the main office.NOW I almost fell over laughing at her I said to her "are you f'in nuts you think I am going to walk into the main office with a gun I my hand and get shot by some cowboy cop" So I go on to explain I am prohibited from owning a gun. So her relpy was we will try and get a officer to come and pick up the gun ..2 days later a cop showed up Last summer my mum was sitting in her back yard and her screen door squeeks so she hears it and goes to see who it is,scares the thief who is going in and he buggers off .Mum calls the cop and they show up 2 hours later to take a report. Sorry no respect for the cops at all seem to me the only thing they are intrested in is handing out tickets ,to much paper work if they solve any real crimes.

Thanks..... aaaaa.. Airhead kinda a dumb title for a mod but if your OK with it ..Then I'm ok with it just here to learn and help whenever I can Phil K

1st go post somting quick in Newbe section some guys here won't give you the time of day unless you do. This is a club not info on demand. You need 3 things to make it run timed spark,good compression and fuel. Have you tryed to put a bit of fuel right in the cylinder? If not pull the plug and put in 10 or so drops pop the the plug in quickly and see if it will run. You said you cleaned the carb sure you didn't get the float jamed or the slide in back wards. You should add some more detail LIke IE: it's was running then stoped,or just bought can't get running,why and what eng gaskets you put in ,how much compression ect. We don't have crystal balls to know what or where you might have messed up!

You should intro yourself in the newbe section ,do you have spark ?

I would not try it on a 2 stroke as your oil mixture would be impossible to to correct . And would most likely cause it to seize from lack of lubercation. As thermal eff. is increased so is the temperature of the eng. Not to mention the whole contraption would look pretty stupid straped to the side of a bike

Eng's don't loose compression and regain compression,if it were ring's she would be smoking, sounds more likely that your not getting proper fuel flow. you should pull the fuel line off the tank and see that fuel is flowing freely ,drain the carb bowls and check for dirt in the carbs. I have never worked on a 125 dragstar but if it has a fuel pump check the volume of flow commin to the carbs. And yes you could use sealer to try but that crack dosent look bad enough to cause all this and it would not come and go it would be the same all the time.

First check all your connections at the battery and starter selonoide and at the starter to make sure they are tight and clean.And check your battery voltage ,if possible load test it. And check to see if your getting proper out put from your magneto 6.5volts on 6v system and 12.8v on 12 v these are minimum values. Then check all the grounds(earths) under the gas tank . Will the starter work if you jump the starter selonoide ? If you have never done this before take a heavy wire and touch both of the large terminals of the selonoide( the thing that the positive cable from your battery runs to and the other wire runs to the starter).If it won't your starter is bad. Of coures your battery has to be able to handle the load hence the load test mentioned above. If it will then check that you are getting voltage on the small wire comming to the selonoide when you press the start button you can do this with a test light ,but it's better to use a volt meter and make sure your getting battery voltage. If this check out good your selonoide is bad. Most elec. problems are ground /poor connection related.Good luck happy ground hunting Phil

If you take the caliper off the bike and can pump the piston back out without the pads on far enough to be able to clean off the old brake dust it will freeup.You will have to clamp the other calpier to stop it from moving so all availble pressure can force out the seized one You should always pump the piston out and clean off the old dust before you push them back in. Tube vs tubless if the valve stem is bolted in 99.9% tube if it just a push in rubber stem 100% tubeless.A set of tyre irons cost 20 bucks and with some practice its a pretty easy job. TIP always start at the valve stem taking it off and finnish at the stem when installing,this way you can push the tube in out of the way from getting punchered by the irons Over here it cost 20 bucks just to get a tyre changed and not much diff about how fast they will do it,so I do all my own for the last 25years and my buddys now, more that paid for the irons now.

For 50 bucks my buddy just picked up a real nice UFO twin LED head light from the local yamy dealer. The lights look just like the ones used in fancy track lighting @ 2in round avaible every where.It come's complete and mounts with heavy rubber straps to the forks took me 10 min to install it and it looks sharp. You should be able to get one in the states for half that and its dam bright UFO make all kind of replacement plastic parts and there stuff is good any bike shop can set you up with one

Well I can speak from experience my wrf 250 has cost me 1/3rd to maintan compared to my buds ktm.Parts are easier and cheaper to get on this side of the pond.I have no trouble keeping up or passing the KTM. As far as service intervals the KTM is not forgiving don't do it and you will be putting on a new head ..buddy wanted to skip it for one more ride and droped a valve a 3000k touch to his wallet.He has had it with the thing and it's up for sale. Valves seem to strech faster on the KTM I have been getting around 4000kms before they are done and his never went 2000k befor they were done. All that said I'm thinking of going back to 2 smoke easier cheaper rebuild's and way less things to go wrong

Well I decided to fuse up the positive terminal with a .5 amp fuse (after using my multi meter set in diode mode to find the positive and neg terminal of the V/R) and just hook it up. The .5 amp did blow when I hooked up the battery I had the neg and pos backwards so I switched them put in a new .5 amp fuse and hooked up the battery sucess.All went well and the bike is running and charging now the fuse has been upgraded to a 30 amp I posted this just so anyone working on something and unsure which is pos and which is neg just rember to fuse realy low and all should go well without blowin something expensive. So we're off to the lake for some fishing,boating and beers Happy Canada day

Sounds like a battery the plates in the battery can shift and temporaly short out the battery. But a faulty ignition switch can cause power to cut in and out,the contacts can get worn esp.if you have lots of keys hanging from it. Try hot wireing (red to brown I belive check a wire schematic if you have red brown black and black with white then it is red to brown) it and by passing the side stand as mentioned above,kill switch unplug it and the ignition control unit ,If it runs then start pluging in 1 thing at a time.And check the voltage comming to the battery needs to be 12.7 or higher at idle I would suggets an new plug and cap the cap has a 5ohm restior in it and also can cut in and out this will cost you under 20 bucks.Check your mag as noted above and the earth mentioned in this quote below if you do all of this you should find your problem in less than 2 hours. Good Luck

I would like to suggest that you take a socket with you and run the bike at 5000 or where ever it runs crapy as long as possible and imedatly shut the bike off and pull the plug out and check to see if looks lean( white). The reason for doing it imedatly is that after riding even short period at low rpm the plug will return to a normal colour. You mentioned cleaning the tank and I suspect that your fuel flow may be to little to sustain high speed running. Does the bike immedatly re turn to normal running once below 5000 or does it take a bit to catch back up? if so I would suspect a lack of fuel flow.And the plug colour is the easy way to tell if its black the it's electral, white fuel.This should help take the guess out of which you should be trying to fix.

lmao

Im new here and realy could use some help Identifing the positive and neg terminals on a 2001 dt 50 voltage regulator . The plug is gone on this rebuild.And the schematic doesn't show the location of the wire's. About me I have been riding 37 years owned 5hp mini bike, 74 xr 75, 80 kx 80,81 rm125 ,82it175 77 cb350 1st street bike,78 gs750 4 Rd 350's 81,82,83,88 ,82 seca 400,81 gpz 750,83 gs 750,86 fzr600,88gsxr750 ,81 gs 1100 current rides 2001 wrf250 and a 2001 bandit gsf 1200. I have done some road racing,ice racing and mx .Went to school for motorcycle mechanic but switched to automotive, winters are to long here in canada not much work on bikes for 5 months of the year,been licenced mechanic since 1998. Hate working on cars but it pay's the bills,love tinkering with bikes seem's like as soon as one is fixed someone I know needs something fixed,so the garage is always litered with bike parts. Getting to old for mx so I'm going to motard the wrf this winter and give that a go next year Well thats enough blabing about myself,I hope someone with a dt 50 or knows someone with one will read this and have a peek under thier tank and get back to me about the location of the positive(red) and neg (black) .I posted in the other section workshop but my son want's to ride this bike and this is the last thing I need to wire up. O ya I have allready given help to a member with his carb problem so I will keep checking in and help when I can Thanks Phil K

Can anyone help me identifie the terminals at the voltage regulator on a dt 50 1991 I am restoring one back to be road legal,the previous owner felt the need to cut out all the lighting wireing. I have followed the factory wireing schematic rewired the entire bike(signals head/tail,horn) all is working. The problem is that the schematic does not show where the feed from the stator( 2 wires I white and 1 yellow/red striped) would be located..or where the positive and negitive termnals.. on the v/r... it's brand new and if i hook it up wrong it will blow. If anyone knows someone with one and can get a look under the gas tank where the V/R is mounted and tell me the location of the black and red the other 2 have to go to the rectified side of the regulator. So to help make this simpler the V/R is on the right side of the frame the way I look at it ..and the red and black would be???? top or bottom frame side or tank side. Hopefuly some can answer this as it is the last thing to do get riding this bike . Thanks Phil

The idle adjuster is a cable mounted to the bottom of the left carb if I remember correctly ( check with your dealer) and push up on the throttle plate,that would cause you to have trouble setting the ballance if the only way you can adjust the idle( tick over) is to adj the throttle cable, as the carbs come to ballance the idle will go up and need to be adjusted down. Borrow all your mate's house fans for a few hours and that will help with the heat problem

Hi I am new to the site .. First let all the air out of the forks someone may have pumped them right full. NOW OOPs I thought about this backwards so go to STEP 1 .........sounds to me like sombody over filled the forks with oil or air or shortened the bike STEP 2 After checking the oil level( drain out the old into a measuring cup this can be done by removing the forks and turning them upside down,& removeing the air valve core(they come out just like the ones in a tire) this wont get 100% but will get 98% and save you the trouble of dissambeling the fork ) in each fork, check the specks on how much there should be, sounds to me like sombody over filled the forks with oil or air. A way of getting new oil back in( if the seals aren't leaking then again your dissambeling the fork) is to get a realy tight fitting hose to the air valve (Core Out) and to a funnel big enough to hold the right amount of oil and slowly pour it back in it will take a while for the air to bubble out and let the oil in so be realy paicent and make sure you get the right amout in. If you spill some dump it out and start over it will be less than 1 lt of oil for both forks(likely less than .5 lt) sorry I dont have the specs but your local dealer will know. STEP 1 check the length of the fork it should be @ 30.5 inches. The bike may have been lowered by shortening the spring to fit a shorter rider. If it's not 30.5 inches from the top to the bottom of the fork then the bike for sure hase been lowered. If this is the case then you will be disassembling the fork to put in new /used springs. The rear of the bike should be @30 inches from the floor to the bottom of the frame measured with the bike upright in front of the rear turn signal .I know of no way to lower the rear short of putting in another shorter shock I'm looking for some information reguarding the voltage regulator. And you could realy help me. I am rebuilding one that someone has striped all the lighting wire harness off. What I need to know is what colouer wire goes where. The voltage reg is the fined box under the gas tank in front of the coil . The way I look at is standing on the right side of the bike there are 4 wires going into it, 2 to the top and 2 to the bottom of the plug. 1 black 1 red 1 white 1 yellow with red stripe could you tell me? Where does the wires go in ie: red top, bottom Or where ever it is, closes to the frame or gas tank?,black bottom or where ever it is,tank side or frame side, white again top bottom tank or frame the yellow will be the only spot left. Please help me with this this is the last thing I need to get this bike running and on the road for my son. Thanks Phil