jamierxs100

the exhaust on my rxs100 isn't the original. I took it off this weekend to look at decarbing it with caustic soda. the baffle was in really tight, but managed to get it out for the first time. The baffle is totally different in style to the one pictured in haynes and has not packing on it. I've read that some baffles don't have packing and I've also read that not having the packing doesn't effect performance or noise level so is not worth replacing. my question is how do I know if this style of baffle needs packing? anyone got one similar. took a pic here:

ok, changes the plug, and followed steps above, it seems to be working fine. Think the new plug shows the problem was the misfiring. But what has caused this problem should I be worried?

just checked the spark plug, its black, wet and oily. the plug was new 4 weeks ago. think this will cause the misfire i've been getting.

Thanks, will look at the carb when the rain stops. It ticks over quite well in idle but every now and again the drops a big chunk of revs, then picks back up, but doesn't seem to have the same sound as usual, bit more spluttery. when I rev its not really getting the power, then sputters a bit more and loses it all together. want to use the word 'misfiring' but I know thats a technical term, but thats how it feels, like its misfiring. Cleaned and checked the carb a few weeks ago and its been super fine since then.

yeah, ran as normal.

ok, ran it with tap off. ran for about 5 seconds and then cut out as expected. should I try it again with tap open? its got about 1/2 a tank of gas.

hi, same result with choke out.

i know this is an old post, I'm getting about 54 mpg on my rxs100 96. not driving it that gently. been keeping a spreadsheet on the fuel, sad I know.

All has been well for the past few weeks, and I was thinking last night it was time to sell the car. This morning it started first kick, but lost power after a few minutes, then I couldn't start it. I just went out and started it, (on film) and it cut out in neutral. - see link Not sure what to think, it wasn't sounding that great in idle either. Any help is very welcome. http://www.flickr.co...t84/7163501369/

the oil change made a massive difference, finding neutral is easy now

thanks Airhead, another top tip. Got the new bolts on and adjusted the clutch, also changed the oil, which was black and full of crap, so I guess it needed doing!

Keiran95, have you tried cleaning it out? may help. Mine was leaking all the time, however what really stopped it was servicing/ replacing the fuel tap. Mine sometimes leaks a very small amount, but only if I leave the tap on.

Looked on yambits, and didn't see any, however, these look ok, guessing m6 will fit and the hex socket should make them easier to remove next time. only £4.50 for 50, how can I go wrong... http://www.screwfix.com/p/socket-cap-screws-a2-stainless-steel-m6-x-25mm-pack-of-50/93965

managed to drill off one screw, and managed to get the others off naturally. I adjusted the clutch so there was just a little bit of free play on the lever. think this has sorted it, just took her out, did about 16 miles, very smooth ran well and managed to put it in neutral while engine was running. thats it, think everything is sorted now. Time to take it to work tomorrow. The only thing I need is some bolts to replace the one and drilled and the others that look a bit tired.

on the rxs100 there is a cover on the left side that encases the cable adjuster. The cover is held in place by 4 screws, I can get two of these off no problem, but the other 2 srews are stuck fast and quite damaged. I got a bigger screwdriver that was a better fit but I still didn't get them open. May have to give up and take it to the garage

took her out again, was sound and did not cut out, revs didn't seem to dip on gear change with warm engine, and it didn't cut out in first (although I kept revving her a bit when I wasn't sure). I could not get it in neutral while the engine was running, only when I turned it off, then finding neutral was easy. The clutch cable near the bars is out as far as it will go. But I can't get the side off to look at the other end. Got one screw off, but the others wouldn't budge, and the screw heads are like marzipan.

wild foamy, ok, will look at that too, the clutch has to be fully depressed to change gear and getting it to neutral is a right pain. will look at haynes see how to do it. Hopefully its quite easy, like the carb.

think you were right Air head, probably was just the screw, increased it a bit, took it out and once it warmed up the idle revs drop off more, so adjusted it it 1500ish while warm and didn't have a problem. Starting to love this bike again.

maybe, did play about with it, in neutral it revs as per Haynes spec, if first there is a bit of a dip when I change down, is this normal? will take it for another spin and adjust it a bit higher, see if that make the difference.

cheers air head, took it out for test drive today after finally fitting the air filter. With the air box as spec this was the first time I couldn't start it, then I gave her some choke and she was fine. went around the block a few time and loved the acceleration, feels like a really fast little bike. Makes a great sound too. Only oddity was whenever I brought the bike to stop in first with no throttle, clutch fully depressed, the bike lost power. Seemed ok if I kept on the revs a bit. When it cut out it wouldn't start straight away, I'd get it back in neutral and it would start ok, and as long as I kept on the revs it was fine. the other thing is the electrics seem terrible, but I've read a lot about that. As i discover the quirks of this bike I see it is only 6v even though its registered 96. I think the engine may be an older model and the electrics are 6v for compatibility with the generator in the engine.

tried to get my baffle out today after following manual, seems stuck fast and did not want to come out (I had removed the screw).

this video is a guy converting his rxs 100 from 6 to 12v

just to report back, after cleaning carb and replacing fuel tap the carb is not leaking now, so looks like its sorted. thanks for the help and advice.

nearly there now I hope, New fuel tap, fuel line fitted carb cleaned - now its clean and with new fuel tap seems to only overflow if tap is left on, will keep an eye on this replacement air filter box installed (from breakers) rust/ dirt in fuel tank - I'm using hammerite rust remover revs 3000 at idle - resolved now at pretty constant 1500ish oil tube that goes to carb was leaking - fixed this waiting for filter element to arrive and need to put gas tank back on tomorrow. after all this lot should be ready to rock and roll.

Found a link to the carb manual a VM22SS http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/vmmanual.pdf also heard that a DT175 carb will fit my bike, anyone have any thoughts on this?