flyday58

Took a break today from working on the RT3 restore and took the DT out for a spin. As you may recall, second to last ride out I had a heat seize due to running too lean. Went to larger jets and with a little tinkering got her running well again. Even got it to tickover like it should. Idles great now. As I rode, keeping it under 45 mph/ 4500 rpm, it developed this sound that had me saying, "Now what?" When easing off the throttle it made a noise like loose paper flapping. Rolling on the sound disappeared but came back when easing. Almost sounded like the reeds were flapping, but power was good with no backfiring, indeed nothing strange but the noise. After I got home, I got off and looked the engine over. I was gonna irde around the yard without my helmet to see if I could narrow the noise down. Well, I saw that there was air in the autolube line where before there was nothing but blue oil. Oh and a big thank-you to whoever posted about switching to the clear tubing for the autolube tubing, never woulda cuaght this. Maybe I'm not sposed to?... When I revved the motor, it looked for all the world like the oil was being sucked into the intake, leaving the air space I was seeing. So, was the noise I heard caused by not having any cylinder lube, or too much? Has anyone else seen this? I got the tubing from Yamabits; the clamps that came with it require a special tool to install, and nothing I could do could coax them into position. Maybe I'm sucking air thru a teeny gap between the tubing and the carb port (that's where the air gap appears)? Let me know what ustedés think.

Weeeell, the side stand mount was broken or cut off before I bought it, so no where to mount a side stand. So one of my projects is to figure out a way to weld an attachment for the side stand to the frame. Had to do similar on my DT for the side stand return spring.

If u clikky the pikky it should take u 2 my photobucket page, worked for OGOAB aka AH.

Yeah, not too manly to show myself being wrangled by my bike, right? I was gonna edit that part out but I laugh so hard every time I watch it! I worked on 60s-vintage C-130s for 22 years, that's about as analog as it comes!

I have a '78 DT175, and the battery connections should be underneath the air cleaner rubber. There should be a red wire with a clear plastic fuse box connected to the harness at one end and the + terminal of the battery at the other. Should also be a double black lead for the - terminal same place. As for the not running issue IMHO a carb disassemble would seem in order just so you know what you got, unless that's what you mean when you say you cleaned it. Wasn't till the 3rd cleaning on mine before I got all the air holes unplugged on the main nozzle. If the float sticks to the closed side and fuel doesn't get to the float bowl it will die, same thing if the breather hose to the fuel cap is clogged. When it dies is it sudden, or does it gradually bog and then die?

Makes me wonder what the hell I've been doing with MY life over here in Ole Miss... Anyway welcome to the forums!

Bienvenido Délio!

Is it heavy, Richard? Yeh bugger! Pulled me right over... edited out part where camera fell over and was filming the stool. Click to watch the vid.

May 6 still... Will try to upload a vid tomorrow...hilarious stuff!

May 6 In the frame. Magneto installed.

May 4 Getting close. Ready for the side cover. Cylinder, piston, and head installed. Ready to go.

May 2 "New" clutch basket Had to buy another set of clutch discs. Didn't notice that the original set, nor the ebay purchase to replace it, did not have the rubber spacer rings. The rubbers? Yeah, those. Just happened to catch it when my manual came in. Lucky!

May 1 Assemble... "New" crank installed. Heated case/bearing on my outdoor grill, it dropped right in. Gear set and shift forks installed. Ready for case assembly.

More... Note the jury-rigged kill switch and all the missing electrics. Plastic IV tube? Nope, the kid's petrol line. Kinda long... Rod is more or less seized. Whoever assembled the crank only installed ONE shim, the one you can see here. Rod was binding against the crank cheek. Wow. Clutch was fine. Till I busted it trying to keep it from turning, that is. Cases split, casulaties: one case screw(the LAST one, o.c.!) Not bad.

Disaasemble... Whatthehell kinda seat is this??

How about some finished piccy's? Reminds me, I need to disassemble mine to take pics of the reassembly...

Thought I was the only one... Installed the #150 main and the #27.5 pilot jets today. It will now idle decently enough, altho with the air screw between 4 and five full turns out. I can run it all the way in and it will continue to run, but you can tell it won't take much for it to die. Between 4 and 5 turns gives the most consistent idle. Even took the screw completely out and she continued to run, as if to say, "so what?" However, she wouldn't rev over 6000, sitting or riding, and sputtered like The King's Speech. This was with the needle back to stock. With the #140 it would rev to 7500; methinks it's too rich now. So I removed the air filter element and got 7500 sitting and 7000 riding, sputtering less. I dropped the needle one notch and reinstalled the air filter; this yielded 7000 riding and almost no sputter. Went ahead and dropped the needle all the way and now have 7500 riding in the 1st three gears, somewhat less in higher gears. That's where I am for now. I might try putting the 140 back in and readjusting the needle for the smaller jet. Cynic may be on to something about low rpm design. Everything I owned back in the day were 250s so it was never a problem doing 60-65 on the motorway. Now, where did I leave that door to Japan, gotta go back through it tomorrow...

I sure could use a close-up pic of the handlebar set-up for the RT1-2-3 series. I suspect from the wiring diagrams there is a right switch block containing a stop switch but haven't been able to find it in the parts diagrams available. I found this part hidden on a DT360A diagram but not the '71 thru '73s.

Cleaned, readjusted, reassembled, went for a ride. Too scared to wind it out too much, so not sure if I started losing power toward the end or not. Also not sure about the amount of heat, it was around 22* most of the day and windy, so not too warm. Lifted the needle one notch, seems about the same. Went ahead and ordered bigger jets, I'll try that next.

Who is this really, Lee Mack? Item #1: Float is not even on both side, the rounder side is bent downward. Bugger. Item #2: Needle valve has FIVE holes. Only 4 were open. Item #3: The carb had more than a bit of rust flakes in it. Adding an in-line filter to the, ah, in-line. Continuing the saga with, "The DT Strikes Back". A dilligaf mo MAY be approaching at some point...

This is fabulous! My new word for work and in-laws!!

Puh-LEEZ! Just walked in the door from Japan, I'm old, I gotta sleep!!!

http://www.pjmotorsports.com/mikuni-jets.html An Estados Ununidos site. I have seated the pilot air screw with only slight stumbling and virtually no diff all the way to 4 turns out. I'll verify that tomorrow. ANd I know I have the 1001 jet but couldn't understand this site showing the other one.

Hmm. Some I've seen come with 7500, some 6500, but I believe I saw one with 8000. Is yours original, do you know?

Shoulda knowed better than to try to use 24-hour time... OGOAB, I have the same pilot jet you do, but the web sites show a diff model for my VM24: So now I'm confuseder.