flyday58

Looking at LS2 rubbers on ebuy, they look to be nearly the same dimensions. One of the clamps is the same. I will let everyone know the outcome. I did pony up to the crook and gave 115 USD for one boot. He had the nerve to ask for positive feedback and 5 stars BEFORE he will leave me feedback. I detest those ebuy douches who try to hold you hostage to feedback after having their way with you on price . Somebody give me an 'Amen'! Sorry...

Mellow greetings, Clive-Dude. No worries, the only reason I didn't step on my crank first time out was cos I saw DirtyDT bust a cap in someone else doing the same thing! Figured I would just side-step that one with an intro. Anyway, as the wise Mr. Johnson said, "Have a drink on me!"

Welcome aboard from the token Amerikaner!

I agree that there are most likely nuts on the backside of those bolts. Tried to find a parts breakdown on the XT125X but no luck.

Guess it's the diff between air and water-cooled types. Probably I'm a little gun-shy since the heat seizure, too.

See what happens when you let us Americanos in? Y'all need a glossary for newbies full of endearing terms like "knackered", "bodged", "sort out", "thin on the ground", "spanner", "tickover", to name a few.

For an old guy, you are cool as shit. Great idea.

Brings up a Q I keep having: are your miles and my miles the same? Thought it was all kilometers over there. If they are the same...80 mph on a DTR, are you insane?!?! Miranda's expression sez it all.

Thanks, all. Purchased an M10 x 1.5 long bolt to use as a 'pusher', but also have a slide hammer on the way. Turns out the armature is bodged to hell, so now the quest begins for the correct unit. Part number-wise, it appears that only the CS5, CS3 and YSC1 armatures will work, and OC they are thin on the ground. Need a Hitachi unit. Found one in Thailand that LOOKS correct but diff #. 74 RD200 says it uses the same 'dynamo' so the arm is the same maybe??? One of those is also available. Anyone know fersher if other models will work? At hospital for the week with an ailing spouse so fun time is on hold.

Serial number? That would help. The muffler guard is standard US 1977 to 1983, in 1976 the exhaust was on the left. Really comes down the the frame and engine numbers.

For me, getting to the fun places to ride is the most dangerous part of the journey. I live in the land of big ole trucks and trash mass-made American auto-mobiles, so I can never go fast enough for people. I've ridden the M4, M25, and Hammersmith flyover enough to know that you have a similar issue in the UK. I need the higher speed to stay (mostly) out of the way of the Top Gear set. Not too many Captain Slows over here. I went from 49 to 45 teeth on the rear and I now get 50 USmph at 5000 rpm, down from around 5500 before. As noted by DDT, she fades uphill due to the gearing and runs out of steam about 5800 rpm in 6th gear, but I'm good with it.

Make sure the slide is not stuck open. If it is and you manage to light it off...

Bit of caution here. I have a 78 DT175 just out of rebore, and it will not make 70s speeds. After much fidgeting, re-jetting and leaving out filters and such, I WAS able to get it to seize up. I believe today's petrol makeup is partially accountable, and in the estados un-unidos THE ETHANOL MANDATE is causing even more problems running vintage machines. Luckily my DT just had a heat seizure, started up and ran fine after cooling a bit. It's caused by a too-lean mixture, but one of my country-mates burned a hole in his piston because of it. I had just attempted to push the DT to 70s-era speeds and you could really feel the heat. I have since gone to bigger jets and make sure to leave the air filter installed, as Yamaha cuations leaving it out WILL cause a lean mixture. All this I gleaned from this forum. These guys lurking in here should get paid.

The CS5 arrived from North Dakota yesterday and I'm already tinkering. The charge light won't extinguish and the starter won't turn the engine over. Removed the stator and found the brushes near the limit, so trying to find some to replace those. Also trying to remove the armature from the crankshaft. I don't have the "puller bolt" the manual specifies, and the bolts I have seem too short. Has anyone removed one of these? It seems that whatever bolt you use will actually be a "pusher", bottoming on the inside of the crank where the flyweight bolt threads in and pushing the armature off the tapered shaft. Is this correct, anyone? Do I just need a longer bolt?

Thanks for that. Waiting for a reply...

They are currently composed of air, warm thoughts, and a dash of remember when, so no bodging to be done Sent this guy an email, but it came back undeliverable. Curses.

The crook on there now wants 125.00 USD for the one he's got left. He's already sold two at that price. (I say "he', could be a "she". ) Guess I'll be going the aftermarket route for this item...

Dang. I was really hoping someone had these.

With my THIRD project on the way, I need to try to locate a source for the air box joints or rubbers for a '72 CS5. The one bloke who had them on ebay wanted $125 USD per and I just couldn't do it. Anyone seen these available anywhere, or have serviceable spares they would care to part with? Item #7.

Hmm. Might troll ebay for a 3rd-over NOS piston... OBRehab, still running that junk carb? I'm MUCH happier with the Mikuni VM24, just wish I knew before I spent the money on the knockoff. Idles great, as I keep blahblahblah-ing about.

Brings up a q I have. If it's too much I can start a new post. The guy who did my rebore bought a Wiseco piston to save me some money, which I don't think it really did. The Wiseco piston doesn't have the intake ports in the piston that OEM pistons do. Do it make any diff? I've been wondering ever since I got the thing back together.

Neh mind, that was B'ham I was thinking of.

Is that anywhere near Stratford-Upon-Avon?

Per Old Git's advice, I went to bigger main and pilot jets. Had to lower the needle as this was too rich, but she idles like a dream now. BUT I'm gonna pop the plug out and check the top of the piston, given my sudden stoppage of recent note and my current noise and missing oil thread... Funny, on the RT1 project, I used pretty old premix from my chainsaw supply to start it. Guess I'll dump that crap on the 70 or 80 fire ant mounds in my yard and put good, non-ethanol petrol in the tank next time I start it, which won't be for a couple weeks. Funny-er, I don't remember buring up any pistons back in the 70s when I was beating these things up and down the substantial hills of Tallahassee, Florida. Could it be that things have changed since those halcyon days of bra-less ladies and Mary Jane?

I'm hip, man, that's why I was miffed to see the oil appear to be being sucked into the intake... Thanks OG, I will check this when I get home Friday. On the way to London tomorrow night. You, or anyone in the Langley/Slough/Windsor area? Would be great to sit down for a pint or two! Will be in town on the 14th, 26th, and 29th...