Spezza

Flippn Eck! Oponeo just emailed me stating the tyre I ordered was DOT2006 and was i still interested - told em not to bother! So - NO! - I wouldnt recommend Oponeo!

Jeez thats scary - an Oponeo add just appeared on YOC banner advert !!!

Decided to go ahead with the R18's from Openo - the site states the stuff below so decided it would make an okay road tyre - today its £70 instead of £69 which is a bit weird - wonder if they set prices accoring to enquiries? they're not that clever surely?!? The site has plenty of good independant reviews so no worries there and a fair old saving compared to competition. I'll let you know whether i can recommend them once i get my delivery. Pirelli Diablo Strada 110/80 R18 (58 W) Front TL M/C Tyres * Combined Front&Rear profile design for a neutral response in all riding conditions * Functional Pattern design for performance consistency through-out tyre's life * Improved compound formulation for sporty performance and maximum safety on dry and wet roads

got this back... Dear Spezza There is a difference between those tyres: Diablo Strada Tubeless Radial 110/80 ZRM18 M/C(58W) is with ZR which stands for max. speed and load rating. Those tyres are dedicated to 'on road ' purposes. However, the second one (Pirelli Diablo Strada 110/80 R18 (58W) for £69) are not dedicated to highway service, rather for racing and sporting purposes. Kindest regards .....guess that means they got less tread than the one i'm replacing!

Hi - i'm after replacement front tyre on TDM850 labelled Pirelli Strada 110/80 ZRM18 (58w). I found similar on Oponeo.co.uk for £69 which seems pretty good. Only thing they quote R18 instead of ZRM18. According to thier site its a 'w' rated tyre which is good for 168mph so no worries there! Anyone know what the difference might be?? cheers!

my experience might be useful -

hey PilningGas you were spot on. My man John fitted a carb kit and I'm cured! Running much happier now and a tank of fuel lasts all week. And yea, it cost a few quid but should pay for itself in fuel by time I sell the bike.

Coils/leads/plugs? sounds extreme (and pricey) ! but got to admit though, my mate John knows a thing about bikes and has got him scatching his head. Symptoms are pointing at carbs but hes had those off, in a bath, clean as a whistle. He replaced them, tested it and worked a treat. He gave me a call Thursday, went over in the evening and the symtoms returned. It starts with no choke, warms up, then wont idle. It will keep going on the throttle but definately not right! We considered dodgy fuel but figured that would be consistant. I'll have a closer look at electrics and check the spark - that would explain unburnt fuel and on/off symtoms - cheers!

Couldnt get bike started last night so hope to organise a van to get to workshop this evening - had to catch a frigging train today :-(

AirHead? sure it said OldGitOnaBike yesterday! apologies if i'm wrong. Taking bike over to friends this eve who has the right tools for the job - were gonna have a closer look at the carbs cheers

Thanks Old Git! I'll have another go tomorrow eve. The tank and airbox comes off in 5 mins so can get to the carbs easily. Presume the drain screws are round the bottom of carbs somewhere?!? Was reading another post on AVRider forum with very similar symtons and poster replaced cracked diaphrams - is that likely to cause these symtons and the Jet-wash is just a coincidence?

Update - suspected a sticky choke....figured if one choke sticking then wouldnt idle on that cylinder but still open up okay.....took the tank and airbox off and slide is operating both choke stems so reckon thats good enough.....could be further inside carb but thats as far as I can delve without losing bits!

Yea - same here - got back in the saddle in October after many years! Had to get the full kit; helmet, jacket, trousers, boots, gloves - but helmet was no1 priority and tried on loads before choosing. I got an HJC for £80 in the end as it was end of line and normally went for twice that. I would say spend as much as you can on a skid-lid! I dont like some of the new fiddly chin strap catches and happy with the good old strap that double backs through the two metal loops. It means I only have to loosen to take off lid and comes with a handy tag to tug on to make loosening easy. Tighening is just a quick tug - ooeer. The model I got cam with a handy built in titnted visor that slides down usng a slidy clippy thing on the top back of helmet. My only reservation is this might comprimise rigidity of the helmet. cheers

Heres some useful topbox info for TDM850 and probably topboxes generally. I bought my bike in October (just in time for winter!) and needed a topbox. Looked at Givi but didnt want to spend £200-£300 on Givi brackets, plate and box so managed to come up with a comprimise. The Givi brackets are essential as they are taylored to the bike and think they are the cheapest out there - about £80 from Mad4Bikes for TDM850. Fitting it isnt for the faint-hearted and be careful not to dismantle more than you have to - huh-hem! Givi sell a seperate plate (about £40) but i didnt need this in the end. The topbox i bought was a huge Tech7 48litre jobby which you can find on Amazon. For £50 they come with a fixing plate which just about fits on the Givi brackets. To fit the Tech7 plate to the Givi brackets you will need to open up the slots in the plate once you've figured the exact location and the two go together easily. Getting the 80mm hex bolts down through the plate and into the blind bracket trunnions was bit of a laugh and requires patience! So in the end I spend £130 and reckon I saved over a hundred. Not a bad days work! cheers

Hi - I popped my 2000 TDM850 over to the local garage saturday and used the jet wash being very careful not to point it anywhere vital. Afterwards all was well (and clean), I lubed the chain, and took it out for a run and didnt have any problems. Didnt use it Sunday but this morning I started it with choke which normally runs the engine at an extra 500-1000rpm depending on how much choke. But...after about a minute, and without touching the choke, the engine slowed to normal idle. Once it warmed up I took the choke off and it sounded like it was running on one cylinder only and had to use the throttle to keep it running on both cylinders. I figured if it was moisture, the run to work would clear it, but still wouldnt tickover at work. So in short - once warmed up - its running on 1 cylinder at idle revs and stops. Any suggestions? (apart from dont use a f*****g jet-wash!) cheers