Paul Mc

Do a goodle search on the first three digits (numbers or letters?) of the engine number, should flag up what it is. Or post the engine number here, I'll check my DT manual in case it's a match? Paul

Measure the plates thicknesses and spring lengths as per the manual? Paul (No, dunno what they should be, sorry).

Looks like a DT125. What is the frame/engine number - let me know, I'll check it in my DT manual when I get home tonight. Paul

From your info, sounds like fuel starvation at higher revs. Recommend checking if the black rubber hoses underneath the tank (to equalise air pressure in the tank as fuel is used up) are nipped/kinked under the tank, if you have a fuel filter clean it, if you have an in-line fuel filter check that it's not blocked or too small. Lack of misfire/backfire intimates that not electrical problem/HT leads, but lack of fuel (as it would detonate on hot exhaust if not burnt in the cylinder, but no backfire means no fuel present at the time.....) At least, that's what I think. Paul

Before you fiddle with the screw settings, check that the air filter is in good nick, that there are no air leaks around the carb manifolds and that the carbs/jets/needle passageways are all clean and clear, in case a blockage is decreasing the amount of fuel reaching the piston. Check also that you've got the correct grade of spark plug. Mixture screw is set and left alone by the factory, as it shouldn't need adjustment during the life of the bike. Paul

IF (big if) it is the starter clutch drive chain, it'll be fairly easy to change (designed to be) and should just be behind the crankcase cover, perhaps behind a securing plate, also involves a tensioner - but fairly 'simple' as things go. Could be a problem with the starter motor itself not engaging - can possibly repair or can certainly replace starter motor. Need to investigate first - let us know what you find. Remember replacement chain for the RX was about £10. Cheers, Paul

Hi. Bike will run fine even if the starter clutch drive chain is snapped (as long as it's not jammed in the crankcase) - just won't transfer the action from the starter motor to the clutch (I bumped my RX and it ran when the starter clutch drive chain snapped). Should be a (fairly simple?) matter of taking off the RHS crankcase cover and having a look.... can check the clutch at the same time if you think it's an issue). Paul

Sorry, probably not going to be much help - just wondering if the XJ has a starter clutch drive chain to transfer the impetus to the crank from the starter? I had a 1000RX which snapped the starter clutch drive chain (and took out an engine casing) but the starter itself was fine... Paul (Do you have a manual - if the starter is mounted above the crankshaft, then probably a chain to transfer the drive from starter to crank......)

with 63Kon the clock, most likely culprit is worn clutch plates. Check the thickness against the service limits. But do the oil level and clutch cable adjustment first. Paul

Hi Josh. Brake Fluid = hydraulic fluid (as it's hydraulic action that operates the disk brakes) and essentially the clutch is hydraulic also, so the same fluid can be used (there have been advances in fluid technology, so possibly can use Dot 4 instead of Dot 3, but to be safe go with the (fresh, unopened container of (as it absorbs water from the air, lessening its' effect)) Dot 3 Fluid in the clutch. Oil Cooler - am not familiar with the FJ, but if it is a small dinky oil cooler perhaps a couple of inches high at the front of the engine, probably at the bottom of the engine, then there will be no way to top it up - the oil will be pumped around it by the bike lubrication system during running to cool it down, so the engine oil itself will fill the cooler..... if it's been totally drained during an oil change, then the level in the crankcase will drop slightly after it's filled the cooler again, best to recheck the level after a few miles and top up if needed. Perhaps someone with an FJ1200 might confirm this info? Apologies if I've not been clear enough, if unclear get back to us? Cheers, Paul

Wasn't me(!). Has brightened up my Monday 'though! Paul

Hi Keith, Have you measured the resistance of the stator coils? Generator cover off, should be a 3 connector block - two connectors side by side, third one below. Tester on ohms setting, +ve lead on the bottom connector: with the -ve lead on each of the other 2 blocks, should read 0.36 to 0.44 ohms at 20°C - otherwise "replace the stator coil assembly"(!). Paul If you're making 14.5V at 5K rpm, isn't that enough to charge the battery? They might have used a welder to repair the bike???? - Wasn't aware that the frame was damaged - isn't electrical welding totally NFG for a bikes charging system - have to disconnect the generator completely (or wire it in a special manner - not sure, can't remember, but have vague memory that it will mess up the generator? (Distant memory, not a welder myself - mig welding with a mate on a rusty CX500, still have the melted plastic toolbox.....)

Same thinking as screwdriver - you're not getting fuel to those cylinders. Start at the carbs - (take apart and clean if necessary - may be crud in the jets or the needles not being able to rise (slider gummed to the walls of the carb) or something like that. P

Hi Keith. Did you have a look at the wiring/check for short circuits, and did you confirm that the horn (and possibly the fan) are working correctly? Probably an idea to check that everything electrical is working, also check your fuses for corrosion/check that all the connector blocks on the loom are fitting well.... Paul

Hi Keith, Those numbers look absolutely fine to me - suggesting that there's nothing wrong with your alternator (and also the connection betwixt the battery and the engine, and also the earth on the alternator (both possible causes of under-charging)). Also doesn't seem to be over charging either..... Am trying to think if any of the wiring loom can have been damaged or interferred with during the repair work - but I'm not overly familiar with the routing of the wires on the fazer (after years of rough machines this is a 'toy' and is low mileage and basically mint at the moment) - worthwhile having a look and see if anything is shorting/rubbing in the repair area, might be the cause of the battery problems. The manual shows the reg rectifier on the circuit diagram, but no info for checking it - possibly a problem with the connection of the reg/rect (under the headstock-ish?), possibly interfered with when fitting the new fairing? I'd have a look at that first, confirm all the connector blocks are joined up as they should be and that the reg rect is mounted correctly (may earth to the frame via a bolt etc?) -one other notion, does the horn work - has that connection been interfered with... may not have noticed, may be earthing/draining the battery quicker than usual. Two more questions - do you have an alarm on the bike (or other accessory - heated grips etc) and what do you mean by killed two batteries in two weeks - are they just not holding charge etc, or are they totally fubar? Is it possible that the batteries are okay, but the bike is failing to keep them charged? Would expect winter riding short distance with the lights off to need a battery optimiser/permanent trickle charger plugged in when at home..... There are instructions in the manual (if you have it) for checking the battery - but these mean nothing, my battery was giving 'ok' Voltage readings X hours after charging, but still NG as soon as the starter motor was thumbed - even so, bike ran fine (with lights on) with essentially a dead battery (just didn't have the power to turn the starter!). Check the reg/rect itself, and the horn first off - if still a mystery/if the 2nd reg doesn't help, then get back to us. Paul (Shame you're not near Swindon, would have tried sticking parts from my electrical system onto your machine for trials....)

Hi Keith, Can you please let me know what sort of work was needed on the bike/what was doen to her after she blew over? With my duff battery it would run okay, just hold no charge, but showed okay volts until the starter was thumbed and then the volts dropped. Guess that 3 yrs is about all that can be expected of these batteries.....? How long is the run (work?) that you usually do on the bike - my understanding has always been that at idle a bike/car basically uses up whatever volts it generates, so won't charge a battery particularly well at idle (info from a mechanic uncle).... My bike is seldom used, but the numbers for voltage will be better than nowt for comparing to. Whereabouts in the country are you? Cheers, Paul

Hi. What voltage are you reading across the terminals with the engine running and with the engine turned off? Is your battery the standard maintenance-free gel type? Confirm the voltage and let me know (PM me if you want) and I'll compare to my '03 Fazer 600. (Had to buy a new battery about a month ago). Should be about 13.8-14.2V with the engine running... Paul

If you are sure that she is flooding, then it'll probably be a problem with the fuel tap, possibly coupled with a problem with the carb: If the fuel tap is the vacuum diaphragm type, the diapragm can split/perish so that fuel actually runs down the vacuum pipe into the top of the carbs and flood from there (as it bypasses the float bowls). Can get a petrol tap repair kit (if that is the problem). If she is flooding via the float bowls then a) a float needle isn't sitting correctly in the passage where it should block the flow of fuel once the level has been reached (or the float 'doesn't! float') and the petrol tap is letting fuel pass - this is okay if only when the engine is running (as that's when it should flow) but if she floods with the engine off, then the fuel tap is suspect. Get back with or for more information if necessary. Whereabouts are you? Paul

Hi Dave. I've a 2003 Fazer 600 too, done less than 3K miles since new (!). Tried to start her on new years eve, but no joy - dead battery. Have recently purchased a new battery from ebay (£45 inc postage) but not put it on the bike yet. I had a battery tender wired up to her, should have kept it in good shape but I think the aftermarket alarm was too much for it (with the very low usage). The battery was showing 12.7V but as soon as the starter was thumbed, dropped below 12 (and won't start). If the engine is in reasonable shape, try to bump start her in second gear (should be easy), take her for a spin and check the voltage across the terminals whilst the engine is running - should be about 13.8V whilst running, otherwise the alternator is suspect. If, after an hours ride, she won't start on the switch - battery is probably no good. From your info, I guess the battery is a goner. Paul

Well, assuming that you mean when the engine is running.... Check your oil level (if low, might be the issue), check that the clutch is working properly and check the final drive chain tension (assuming it's chain drive, dunno what a raptor is (okay, it's a bird of prey, but you know what I mean). Paul

Hi Scott. If you have a multimeter, you can trace a wire on the loom that is live (showing 12V flowing) only when the ignition is turned on. If no multimeter, then a piece of wire with a fuse and a bulb in-line can be used, attach one end to the battery negative and use the other to probe connector blocks on the loom looking for a switched earth, then run a line from there to the fan positive supply (at the small junction box next to the fan) and the rad will only come on when the ignition switch is turned on. However, with your current issue, the fan would always be on when the ignition is switched on - not ideal. Or you can put a switch in the circuit, placed on the dash, so that you can turn the fan off and on at will. Still not ideal. If you have a competent mate, get them to have a look (cheaper than a mechanic). Try to fix the cause - could still be some water in the circuit, if that was the cause. Do you have a wiring diagram for the bike? Where are you - if near Swindon I'll have a look at it for you? Paul

Hi. Most likely that the fan circuit is a permanent live circuit, with a switched earth (temperature sensor) allowing the fan to run after the engine is turned off if need be. The power wash would certainly appear to have caused the problem - either trace the wiring back (as it could be shorting between the temperature sensor and fan, and check the switch itself. (The switch itself shouldn't have been affected, more likely water in the circuit or a wire shorting somewhere - perhaps in the fan itself or at the switch?) IF you have trouble finding the problem, then can change the circuit so that the fan is powered by a switched live (only when ignition is on) circuit... What machine is it? Paul

Echo of above - I believe that there needs to be a resistor somewhere in the circuit for LEDs, but you've probably got too much resistance now - I think some LED's have separate resistors, some have them built in.... Can probably get suitable resistors etc from Maplins? Paul

Have a look at the options available for changing the gearing with different sprocket sizes - but keepin mind that if you go for top end, you'll lose some of the acceleration that you currently have.

Keybo - possibly the relay, but also a possible bad connection - especially on the earth side of the circuit. Can't remember if the indicators earth back through the loom, or if they earth to the frame via the indicator stalks, but would look at that first. If that's okay, then possible break between relay and the indicators. Do you have a multimeter suitable for motorbike electrics? (one that reads up to 10 or 20V DC, and also has a resistance setting that can be used to check continuity in wires) Paul