Noise

If you know what the size of the bolts are etc give this site a go, i bought from him before and he is very good. http://www.custom-fasteners.co.uk/

Holy feck! Anyone else just been screaming at their PC screen like they where at a real race? No!? Just me then

Yer as Tout said the stock bars are 1" diameter. As for the cables, if you take the fuel tank off you can re route them around the back bone to release more cable so you maybe able to fit the apes.

Yer thats a smart looking bridge! No but if you go on google street view you can see him leaving the sceen so he must have been doing something on the bridge

Here you go. you will need to know what size it is (most likely an M10 or M12 if i remember correctly) and the length and the thread pitch. http://www.custom-fasteners.co.uk/ Im sort of lucky as just around the corner from me is a shop that sells nuts and bolts and all sorts in stainless steel. Try having a look round your local area and see if there is any nick nack shops about.

Also these lardy dar gel batteries take a week to trickle charge. Also if you take your battery out long term like when you rebuild the bike dont put it on the floor as it will earth out and discharge its self.

That is very fast, but think this one is a tad faster

It will work but as said above dont start the jeep due to it pumping out too much cranking amps, you will either fry the 125 battery or thow the starter clutch out jamming it in the fly wheel or it will just stay out and not retract. Can you not bump start it?

Yer very true but un like that bloke i do have "some" vision haha. So far all i have managed to get done is cleaned up the new barrels, cleaned the crank cases and im just cleaning up the pistons. then next payday im going to buy the gasket set and paint to finish the engine off and put it back together so i can start on the frame etc. Seams like this one is going slower than the bobber.

Handy little tip there.

Yer i did see that tommy and got to agree wirh dt thats one ugly looking bit of kit. Still not sure on how this is going to turn out but once i get the engine sorted i can start looking at the vanity side of things.

Very Easy mate, the brake line is two bolts that you undo, you will need to replace the two copper washers that are fitted tho. Clutch cable again is easy but fidderly, loosen the two nuts down on the left hand side of the engine and pop that part out of the housing, pop the end of the cable out of the clutch arm on the engine, pull the hand leaver in and look underneath, your see there is another nipple that needs to come out but first you will need to line up the two adjusters up so the grooves line up for the cable to come out. Throttle cables are again easy but fidderly. (Fuel tank needs to be removed) Un-do the two phillips screws on the switch gear and spilt it, remove the cables off the throttle grip, one cable housing is screwed into the switch gear the other is just popped in there so will just pull out with a wiggle. Now loosen the two lock nuts on the carbs and pop the ends of the cables off the carbs. Again yes you can easliy do this yourself: TOOLS NEEDED: Soldering Iron Wire (same gaunge as on the switch gear) Heat shrink Wire cutters Stanley Knife (I trust your smart enough not to cut your self ) Start by removing the heat shrink from the stock cable so you can see all the wires Heat up your solderign iron Cut ONE wire at a time and strip the ends of the wire Tin the ends of the wires Cut a length of new wire and strip the ends Tin the ends of the new wire Solder one end of the old wire to the new wire Slide some heat shrink over the exposed wire and shrink it Slide another bit of heat shrink over the wire Solder the other part of the old wire to the new wire and seal with the heat shrink Repeat steps 3-10 on all the other wires once all the wires are done place a larger bit of heat shrink over the whole wire bulk to tidy it up

This job is really easy mate and you can do it on your own or if you wan tthe wife to "Help" then all the better. Here is a little write up i done a while back. Disassembly Remove wing mirrors (as they get in the way) Use a flat head screw driver to free up the left hand grip then twist and pull it off (use some GT85 spray to lube it up if need be) Remove the clutch lever by loosening the nut and pulling it off Loosen the two phillips screws on the horn/indicator/high and low beam controls (don't take the screws all the way out) Loosen the two phillips screws on the throttle controls (Again dont take them screws all the way out) then slide the throttle off Loosen the bolts on the front brake and slide it off (dont leave it hanging as it may leak DOT4 over your bike and then your fucked) Un-do the four 6mm Hex key bolts on the handle bar risers and ditch the bent bars (note that there is an arrow on the risers telling you the way they fit back on PREP for new bars Remove old front brake hose and fit new longer one Un-plug the handle bar controls and fit your longer wires (adapters or what ever you have bought) Un-strew the push pull throttle cables and pop them off the throttle grip Install the new longer push pull throttle cables Pop off the old clutch cable and fit the new longer one. RE-assembly Fit handle bars and bolt loosely with the risers in the correct direction (just nip the bolts up to stop them dropping on the tank / head light) Fit the front brake Fit the throttle unit Fit the clutch Fit the horn/indicator/high and low beam controls Slide the left hand grip back on Sit on the bike Possision the bars where they feel best for you and tighten the four hex key bolts Possision the rest of the controls where you want them and tighten all the screws and bolts / nuts Have a cuppa

Im loving this! Flipping fantastic work!!

Cracking looking bike steve, shame you couldn't swing by as i could have shown you how to ride it haha. Really nice buy congratulations

Gone so far i can see the tumble weed. Or is that too classed as a shrub?

Hi Dan, Welcome to the YOC, it would be cool just to nip into the new members section and pop up an intro if you'd be so kind. As for your problem, does it happen after you have ridden it like when you stop at traffic lights? or does it happen from the get go? (IE start up kick into 1st but then cant select any thing else.) Can you select all the gears when the bike is turned off and with no clutch? And when was its last oil change?

Well the A30 Honiton road is a pretty nice road with some cool twisty bits but once your off that and onto the 303 it turns into a crappy dead straight duel carrage way. If you want to know of any "nice" places to go in Yeovil.........................there is non, its about as good as a cock fighting tournament in bangcock, can be fun to start with but soon your being groped by something of the opposite sex (or are they??) One the way to Londan on the A303 you will drive past the Haynes Museium, now that is probably the only good thing around this way apart from the fleet air arm but thats Navy / RAF so we wont go there as we'll soon start licking windows and chasing men. Basically Yeovil is one of those towns that think its a city, looks like a Typical Farmer town in places but then looks like a city in other places. Quite a few good pubs tho.

In Yeovil mate, bit of a dog leg route back to yours but if you want a ride then your more than welcome and gives me a reason not to do any more pissing decorating ha ha

Yer you dont want to be at logger heads with your son now, so you better not leaf it too much longer, but mind you he might twig that your not going to do it any time soon which might make him barking

Well, thats nice to know.

My Tommy what a big tool you have

If your going to Plymouth You can always stop off at my gaff for a cuppa if you want? clock up some more miles on the FJ. Such a good looking bike i'd have one but look a bit too tall for my stupid titchy legs.

Hey all, not been on this project for a little while due to work and general life getting in the way but i'll try and remember all the little thins that have happened. As we knew this bike only cost a whopping £50 but was blowing oil out of the crank breather and was also purple, two big things that need to be fixed in order for her to be sold on. First out came the engine for investigation work and off came the heads and barrels, on first looks the heads looked fine no nasty marks or metal shards in there so that was put to one side and i'll soon be taking the valves out for better inspection and re-lapping in. Next was to check the barrels, now again on eyeball inspection they looked spotty dog with no scratches or deep cuts from a snapped ring, but there wasn't even any houning marks which raised a worry. So out came the bore mic and low and behold three out of the four barrels where +0.40 over toll, so the the piston rings where not sealing properly. Now i know i could have gotten a set of over sized rings to take up that small +0.40 but for £45 i found a breaker selling a set of barrels, pistons and rings all from a fully running bike so i thought that will be the best cost effective route to take. I received these barrels yesterday and just got them inspected by my mate in the inspection dept and they are right on the button so these will hopefully solve the oil out the crank problem. Once i get the new gaskets i can put the new pistons and barrels on then get going on the valves and the top end, with a bit of luck i hope to get this fired up by the end of September but we'll see how it goes.

Lucky git, that is truly brilliant reaction skills from him.