Noise

Not sure why you think you need to buy parts to make it naked. You dont buy the wife clothes to make her naked...............................same principle You Just need a screw driver to remove the plastics instead of rohipnol

Your twisting the throttle when your wheeling her out The throttle cable is routed wrong and is snagging round the head stock Floats in the bowl adjusted and have become too sensitive. Have you recently done any work to her? or had someone work on it? if so what was done?

Best thing i have made was a Jack Daniels cheese cake. But im not a big fan of food, i just eat because i have to,

What has actually happened to the front end then bud? sorry to hear about the fire but i can't see how it could have damaged the yolk in such a way your can't still use it? did it melt? As said you can make almost anything fit, its just a case of getting the head stock bearing to fit which could end up resulting in milling out the head stock to get (say the xj) bearing to fit the XVS. If its just the yolk thats damaged then you will need to measure the stanchions (chrome bits of the legs, which i "think" are 54mm diameter???) then measure the bar on the bottome yolk which slides up through the frame to join it to the top yolk, measure the diameter and length. Once you have these two dimentions you can then try and find a set that matches what you need. This will then save you having to fart about changing the bearing.

Carb cleaner or Parafin

I have found a dyno just down the road from me so once she's back on the road i'll book her in, she ran great when i took her for the MOT only had a dead spot at about 5k but picked up her knickers at 6k, as you say they will be able to nail down what to set her too.

Thats a really good price, i thought you was going to say something like £80 haha. I think im going to have to adjust the needles on the bandit, im running 147's

A quick google search and it looks like there might be some on Ebay. I can't confirm this tho as Ebay is blocked on my works PC just type in "XVS 125 exhaust sheld"

Loverly sound! and a good reslut for you! How much was this dyno run if you don't mind me asking? thinking about getting the bandit done to see if i have the right jets in

I hated the new Top gear, i've never liked Chris Evans and his piss poor performance just nailed his coffin down in the "your a total cunt" section of my life. Why does he insist on just shouting about every thing?why couldn't he just communicate like a normal presenter rather than acting like a neanderthal on crack. I bet the preducer would love to punch him now

Glad to hear that your OK bud, hopefully the feds get the twats then you can ram a piece of the bike up their arse for a warm up.

Someone else had this same problem on there 650. They disconnected the battery for an hour to reset the system and it worked. Try that

Take the power commander off and see how she runs. if she runs better then leave it off. If it still runs like a bag of crap ask the bloke who reccomended it to see if he knows/can find a map for that set up.

I think this was a bit of pay back from them as one of the lads blocked me in with his car when i was on the ten ton forklift. he refused to move it........so i kindly picked it up and placed it out of the way ontop of the curtain slider container we have on site. funny thing was he couldn't see it and actually thought someone else moved it

Ah i see haha, its ok bud i was just sat here trying to picture what you was you was describing. That must make life a fair bit easier with that adjuster. I too am not 100% sure if the 400 is the same as the 650's. i know the 125 has a very similar set up on the rear brake to the 650 so i would like to think they kept the same thing troughout the range

Sorry mate are you able to show us what you mean as I'm finding it hard to picture where you mean about adjusting it from the lock nuts on threaded bar and even more so with the bit under the foot brake. From what I remember from Betty was: Only threaded bar on this system was at the rear which the locking nuts push against the drum brake leaver which takes up the slack as and when your brake shoes start to ware. (Does not move the pedal enough for height) The foot pedal is on a piece of round bar and is fixed by a M6 dome head bolt that only stops it slipping off the end. Thus meaning there is no way of adjusting the height of the pedal at this point. The only place that I know you can adjust the height of this pedal is to take off the bracket (you see in the video) turn it a few teeth and put it back on.

Think we do haha, guys at work are loving it as they are leaving me Duracell batteries, pictures of rabbits and even a toy rabbit with its head cut off on my work bench haha. thankfully I have managed to get the clutch push rod seal out and all is fine behind it! So a new seal has been ordered and should be here by Wednesday. New chain arrived today and the push rod and sprocket cover will be here tomorrow. Just a case of getting motivated to start all that fibreglass again.

How did the bike run without the power commander fitted?

Its nothing to do with the drum brake fella. its all to do with the bar that links the pedal to the next bar that leads to the drum brake lever. found a video on tubeyou that shows how to do it. (skip to 3:55)

Thanks hun, yer it all kinda hit home while I was sat at the side of the road thinking what could have happened. Almost makes you think twice about riding bikes, but then again............BIKES ARE AWESOME!!!!!!

O yes slice I'd love to borrow your gun, I'd go take out all the rabbits that seam to line up at the side of the road every morning when I goto work. It's like they take it in turns on that road. Yer it could have been so much worse and I must thank who ever or whatever was looking out for me that day! Here are the pics of the damage. Side of the road after pulling chain out Sprocket cover Seat unit Push rod Where the push rod goes, this is my worry as not sure if it's going to seal now? New parts where ordered this morning and all on 24 - 48 courier so will hopefully get her moving again by sunday if all goes well.

Thanks Kev, will have to change your comment tho as she "did" look good untill yesterday. Not a good day really, after the MOT to which she failed on petty little things: like, indicators flashing too fast, exhaust is louder than a standard motorcycle and number plate light angled in such a way that its emitting white light to the rear..............ridding home to put her away till after work and something fuzzy (thing it was a rabbit) ran out and hit the chain, cousing it to miss enline and snap on the rear sprocket. The chain then whipped up smashing the seat unit, then wrapped itself around the front sprocket towhich it then bent the clutch push rod and blew a hole in the sprocket cover. Thankfully it didn't wrap around the rear sprocket and lock up the wheel as i was doing 70 down a duel carrageway, sad thing was that for the 3 hrs i was at the side of the road only two people stopped to help. So its back into the shed for now, really hoping that the clutch pushrod hasn't done any internal damage to the engine.

It's black........... That's a good start.

All i can imagine is if he lost grip on the clutch before he jumps back on.........................................SUPERMAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As neversaydie said the way to adjust this one is to follow the brake bar from the pedal back, untill you come to the connection link which has a 10mm bolt, undo the bolt and pull off the link, now pivot the link left or right depending which way moves the pedal down. when your happy where the pedal is put the link back onto the spline and put the 10mm bolt back in. 5 minute job