Mastiff

I spoke to Yamaha Scandinavia in my desperation to fix the front brake of my son's DX, and it turns out that the lid/cap of the master cylinder and the master cylinder assembly is not available any more from Yamaha. But the guy at the main parts department (which is in Sweden for Norway and Sweden) said that I could use the RD 125 LC master cylinder on the bike if I could get it to fit with brake line and stuff. The difference in brake fluid pressure was not enough to create any problems. And there are tons of LC master cylinders on eBay, so that I can get any time. But has anybody ever done that switch, or does anybody have both bikes so they can tell me if the banjo bolt, brake line and other stuff would fit? And is it possible to have a custom brake line made anywhere, if that turns out to be the problem? Oh, and he also said that the price of the LC assembly directly from Yamaha would be around £300 if I wanted that! So that wouldn't be happening any time soon... Especially with all the NOS parts on eBay. Edit: This seems to be of academic interest now, I have heard back from a fellow forum member who has a cylinder that I can use. But still it would be interesting to know if this is possible, since a later wipeout could damage the cylinder again!

Canny lad, did you find out anything? My son's getting impatient... If not, does anybody know where I can get at least the lid or preferably the full assembly? The bike model has never been sold in Norway, so there are no parts here. And I have followed eBay a couple of weeks on this (both UK and US), and there hasn't been anything like that up yet.

OK, thanks! I'll get to that when I get the parts for the brakes.

Yes it is. Thanks! By balancing I hope you mean using the "eye" on the barrel (I would guess there is one, like I have on my RD's) to see that a certain level of throttle moves the pistons to the same point? I really didn't think it could be the idle screws because it idles for some seconds before it starts to die, and I assumed that tightening the screws would only make it idle far to high. But maybe not? Worth a shot at least.

Well, it will idle for a little while, but then it just dies. And that will happen if I let it slow down too much without engaging the clutch and rev it a bit. Where should I start to look for this problem? The bike should be in good shape, it has been checked out in a Yamaha garage before I got it. Do I need to do a carb job on this thing, or can it be something easier? It happens on both warm and cold enine, and it will run for maybe 10 seconds on idle before it slowly starts dying. It really doesn't remind me of anything I have had before on my 350's. But I'm still thinking carbs or something else in the fuel system, not electrical. Any objections?

By the way maybe it's possible to us the LC master cylinder assembly on the DX? I know it wouldn't be completely historically correct, but still... Edit: Yambits didn't have the correct cylinder, and they could not recommend the use of a non standard brake part, as they said. I can understand that, better safe than sorry. Wish I had the specifics of them so I could se if the pressure was the same.

Thanks! I'll get to it, then. I'll have to remember to wrap a cloth or something like that around it, so I don't tear off the paint with the pipe.

I just found out that Yambits had the 125 LC master cylinder with all mounting hardware for around 50 quid (didn't see that anywhere on eBay yesterday so I didn't think they had anything like that). I have sent them a message to see if they have/can get anything similar for the DX, and for what price. I'll let you know what they answer.

Sounds like something I could use, but of course I do hate to paint... Still if you will let me have it cheap with the lid it's worth a shot. I'll wait and see what you find out.

The footrest on the right side is bent after a crash some time, and it's too close to the kick starter. Should I remove the assembly and try to bend it on the work bench or could I simply use my good old pipe (which I use as a power arm on stuck bolts) and bend it while it's on the bike? I would like to avoid breaking it, but I'm guessing that if it hasn't been bent back and forth several times that shouldn't be a problem, right?

I don't have a digital version, only the old fashioned analogue version. But I'll take the chance, I'm guessing that my odds are pretty good. Do you have PayPal, so I can pay you there? Also is that junked master cylinder junked because you found something better or because it was faulty? I think maybe changing the full master cylinder (perhaps using a fix kit on it) would be the easiest way to do this, since the clamps are quite ugly on this bike after crash some time during it's live cycle.

That would be much appreciated! Even the old one's probably a lot better than what I have, so I would buy that. It is the version with four screws, not two btw. You didn't buy the reservoir itself at the same time? I am considering changing that as well...

There's a crack in the corner of the lid of my son's 125 DX, and it's leaking a drop of fluid every day. I tried to search for both cover and lid on eBay, but I couldn't find anything. Can somebody tell me the best place to get something like that? The bike has never been sold in Norway, so parts have to be imported specially. And parts in Norway, especially for rare bikes, are hysterically expensive! So I would appreciate a tip on that.