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Filtering is a dodgy area as the police often frown on it even though bike cops do it. Also don't filter unless you have good machine control and driver awareness as said by others some drivers just do it for fun.

Click on the link but shop around to get the best price. http://www.ruggedroads.co.uk/shop/article_10032/ACF-50---1-Quart-Bottle-With-Refillable-Pump-Action-Spray-Bottle.html?shop_param=cid%3D45%26aid%3D10032%26

2 cans are you rich If you are going to get some buy the pump action type it works out far cheaper. Warning If anyone is putting there bike on the Sorn system your normal insurance will not cover it as they sell a laid up insurance so beware..

Hi I'm not aware of any major problems with the BT. Just give it a good service and enjoy..

Nice and Good luck

You can buy online at DIY.com and reserve for collection at your local store so you don't miss out.

If you want to keep the barrel try this. Info from Mart13 ACRD. There is a code is stamped on the outside of the lock and only visible when the lock is out of the frame. It is quite easy to "pick" you'll need a 5mm wide strip of the thinnest feeler blade you can find (0.05mm works) push that between the barrel (the bit the key goes in) and the lock body in line with the narrow side of the key hole. you need to find which way the wards are sprung (which side of the key is working) push the shim until you feel the first ward then inside the keyhole with a thin wire push the ward outwards until the shim will go in to the next ward......repeat until all wards are retained and the lock should turn. allowing you to remove it. Its difficult to explain and a bit fiddly. Good luck

You could be right I can be anal over details but I cant remember! as long as the old bikes are kept alive I'm happy.

Ahh the silver one I was all over it like a rash, I remember it as there was something odd about it but cant put my finger on it. Nicely put together though.

Plasticote paint is on offer at B&Q 3 for 2 so if you are into restoring engine cases etc get it while you can.

Thanks chaps. Its my first restoration, I'm more than happy with her not that I'm new to spannering bikes just not doing paint,chrome etc so a bit of a learn curve. She's been road ready for a couple of months but I had an electrical charging problem which kept me off the road 30 miles max before it started misfiring, I sorted that and then the weather started to change. I cant wait for the spring so to get the bores run in. I was at the squires 2 stroke day, I don't know many of the ACRD chaps which includes Busadonk, there wasn't many A/B RD's there but I enjoyed the day out all the same.

Copperslip on the back of the pads stops squealing also the dust seals on the wheel axle spacers can run dry and be noisy.

Update: Its been a while since my last post but, I have had them back with apologies and very nice they are too. Here's the almost finished bike just a few small things to do.

If your motor has a denotation sensor like some BMW's you can use 98 or 95 as the ignition will alter to suit, but if your motor is in standard trim without a denotation sensor it shouldn't make any difference however the engine will run fine. I do use super in the RD though as it hasn't any ethanol in it at present and alter the advance slightly to compensate.

DIY every time on any vehicle in the household for the same reason as Ryan09. I know 3 mechanics/techinicans and if you saw there bikes and cars you wouldn't let them near your stuff either. Anything else, if I can get it done by someone else all the better.

BMW have a lot of trouble with there shaft drive especially the non service unit of couple yeas back, and they are dealer fix only unless you have the correct tools.

Defiantly Moly the splines as Yamaha dont put enough on.

Both points are noted however, In the real world it most engineering shops are at best OK but never on the ball especially any in the Midlands they haven't a clue. The other chap may not realise until he starts to rebuild and that depends on how far a long he is...

Any news?

Has anyone had there chroming done at Bob Cooper's in Coventry recently as I have your RD header pipes and you have mine. I picked up my chrome on the 19 May and there was a set of other RD stuff on the bench. The one's I got are off a newer model as there quite short and totally different angle compared to the spare set I have. PS. My bike is an RD350B I hope your on this site...

Looks interesting..

Most of them will fit I would go for gold spots my self as they have better pistons fitted, if you are offered blue spots with a transfer tube they are off the early Thunder Ace which are Okay but may need rebuilding.

Its always best to use original gaskets but pattern can be as good, are you totally stripping the motor or just the top end as you can buy just these.

He never put the real question: Q. Cars are safer than bikes so should they be banned: A. Yes. B. Only if its got 2 wheels. C. No. (this wont count anyway as we will delete it if we need to). The EU has a similar questionnaire which is biker negative.

Okay