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A quick google search reveals that: Orange Coolants are also known as OAT coolants. OAT coolant stands for Organic Acid Technologies and is specifically designed for newer vehicles that contain more nylon or aluminium parts in them. whereas blues and greens are typically ethylene glycol based coolant. What it does go on to say though, is you shouldn't mix the colours.

So I assume with all these new parts , including the plug, its been set to the right gap and not just used straight out of the packet? having said that you say it runs at higher revs when you open the throttle, but not so good at lower revs. i can't see it being related to the plug but a higher reving bike at throttle will be glowing nicely and burning fuel correctly, at lower revs it will be cooler (not much I admit) but it's a possibilty. On the basis that the electrics are working as they should, afterall you sound like its had it all replaced, coil, plug, etc, I doubt its the plug cap, as they either work or they don't, but again, its worth a check to rule it out. I think therefore the likely culprit is going to be fuel related. and when I say fuel I include its delivery AND its air/fuel ratio. which carb are you now using , the old one or the new one? Is the carb the correct one in the first place? are you satisfied the old carb is the OEM that came with the bike when new. This would be one of my first questions. Devils advocate here...its not a 175 carb on a 125 is it?

Hi there, according to CMSNL website, which lists other bikes to the part number, it states: 576-81350-11-00 fits models DT175 1974 USA DT175 1975 USA DT1C 1972 USA This product fits to 3 models. We are showing the first 10. Please log in to see all models. On the plus side they do have one in stock!! but it's not cheap! and on an ebay.com listing the advert states: Part Number: 576-81350-11-00 Fits: DT175A - 1974 , DT175B - 1975, DT175C - 1976. But the photo doesn't show a close up of the rotor for the stamped number.

I agree with Snake and I think my earlier quote will apply to your efforts🤣

Trouble is James, so few members these days seem to post, a few years ago the site was quite busy with lots of regulars but they seem to have moved on. Hopefully somebody with an answer might come along but it could take a while / weeks +. In the meantime, as you say no harm in trying another silencer, but you might have to do a bit of fettling to get it to fit and be gas tight. Good luck keep us posted.

Hi there Boxoffrogs, you've unfortunately posted in the wrong section, this is the area for 1st posts to introduce yourself, this needs to be in the Workshop section. As you're a paid up member you can be forgiven, hopefully a mod can move this into the right section. As regards to your DT cylinder , is this a Psychic one? which i think means you need their 70mm race carb to go with it as it's not compatible with the OEM carb. see ebay photo in their listing..https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303728870851?itmmeta=01HYG5QDDRHVF8964F7Y944430&hash=item46b7a6c5c3:g:jacAAOSwVI5haWBL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwDaUsbdex5Z%2FN%2F%2BeVDKSxvLRGMTuGxYA58GZnk0VNgNrMmiz1O4x%2Fe%2Bo2peb%2B%2B13MeGLpf9Xy%2B%2FIQB8%2BnvKl688piZg5w3vDIhIguWQq7J91Gz7xt3pHMo%2FYppxpNzxSglAmHzHLGvT2%2BkRYZENreX3qzShHmEOoQX9AuUP6qf6eV%2FcCGzyq99Inak%2FkOMHHAdJWPvmVM3iCYU2F%2B6MKXHB3UWdfU0eCAOcoqUbdH5Tl6WLsmKl05zgii4PQlfIbcw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4rX3YX0Yw

Ahh can see now, you're referring to this bit? yes?. ..and you have already worked out the cause and remedy. It's very common for parts like this to have a bronze sleave lining/bush inside and it's that part that has probably worn away causing the boss to move about on the pivot. You can fabricate a new sleeve providing you can find a similar material, I know this because taking bikes apart you come across various bodges that previous owners have tried to varying degrees of success. So the part you would need is the arm itself as the lining bush will be part of it. That's why it doesn't show up on the parts diagram. and if there wasn't a bush then the boss is just machined metal with a close tolerance when new which has simply gone oval over the years. The two options being: to either ream it out so the hole is equal all around (remove the oval) and fit a metal sleave/bushing of uniform thickness. or cut a sliver of metal and try wrapping it around the shaft, i.e bodge it. You can get thin tin brass, metal sheets in modelling shops, that you can try fabricating one from, try ebay. something like this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145190789050?itmmeta=01HYFM8YJR8XNME4P2JJBPXDRV&hash=item21ce0b9fba:g:JnIAAOSw16hkrgAq&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwF1kt81QocyvSrSnVPobJjdkDG7uW3KM%2F4gs%2FS1p4jjAj773U51RvIl9E4q0Rw4kGb8CdrvFVuG2%2FIGtIq0MdhmdaJYIWBpQCPXcxmxvMWGO3HGbZvFP9Rq9lWvRBbJQVwjuIjL40DoIrxvZV%2Bvx%2F7Pnkj3%2FPY4I6ds4ddUWxo1C%2Btfey1YsMC0heHBRbVDaxF40Nc0uVgQYosEBcGAwmCOs3C9hUdY4KPJnbPRi%2BWWPgn4Mfk01R6oMM%2FrFXk0%2FEQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8Tpo_TzYw

That is good news, Glad you got it sorted, I did say it's going to be something simple, sounds like different tolerances on the two sprockets causing the issue with chain. Thinking about it, I have a vague memory of something similar on one of my bikes in the long distance past that required a swap out of poorly machined parts, I don't recall the noise you describe but the solution was replace with a different sprocket to cure the problem. and well done for coming back with the end result. All too often there are multiple posts that remain unfinished with no conclusion or report back. I've given you another like on your last post there to help put you on the leaderboard.

here's a parts diagram of the gear lever in question if that helps.... https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/535-MOTO/1991/VIRAGO/XV535-VIRAGO/GEAR-SHIFT-SHAFT--LEVER/69_6861-6861/B18/0/14251 Your close up photo, is a bit too close up and could do with a wider shot to get a reference point. Obviously its your bike so you're familiar with it, but not us

When you say Alternative to electric driven fuel tap, is that what it is? I thought the solenoid was part of the fuel shut off system. The fuel pump which is electric driven is elsewhere. i may be wrong, but i think the fuel tap doesn't include the pump, they are separate. (its just the terminology you're using may be throwing me, a solenoid being just a type of switch, whereas driven implies a motor) Removing the existing shut off valve and tap and simply replacing it with a gravity tap, is probably not difficult. But is there enough room to get at it? You may have to consider that If you disconnect the solenoid you may get a fault code on the ECU, so you may have that to contend with. Can you not repair the solenoid? I found a vid on youtube which may be of some help.... https://youtu.be/ZldV4FHF2n4

..and a warm welcome from me. Sussex is a big place, East or West? Don't give your address, just be vague. I'm near Brighton myself.

Hi there Tony Welcome in... Not much to go on there, because DT175's have been made from 1974 to practically present day!! well that might be a bit of an exaggeration😃 There's the early 70's through to the late 80's then another production in the early 90's through to early 2000's. Early ones (1970s-80's) are not year dated, so the frame number won't help, but later ones are. A picture of your future purchase would help in at least narrowing it down to the model by its appearance... Take a look at this website which gives you the different years https://www.autoevolution.com/moto/yamaha/dt/ Let us know if you need further help once you know what it looks like.

Did it arrive? have you fitted it? are we there yet?😄

A warm welcome here, nice intro.

I don't seem to have a thumbs up one.

Well thats good news, hope it works out for you. As a bit of fun, we have a ranking system within the forum from awarding thanks and likes etc. the more you get it moves you up through the tables. Popular posts can get gold, silver and bronze medals. Its just for fun and not to be taken seriously but it adds to your profile. On posts you'll notice a grey heart on the bottom right, and clicking on it will show a variety of icons. Anyone can click on them and you can click on as many as you like. I've given you a few likes and thanks and now your name will appear on the Leaderboard ranking for the week. You could end up with a gold medal!!

Don't you know anyone in Oz? who could buy it and send it over for you.? Or anyone planning on going over for a holiday?

Hi Dave again, False alarm!!!, item no 16 https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt175-1978-usa_model8652/partslist/D-07.html and only 4 euros each.......but not able to add to cart!! so probably not in stock! back to Oz then!

9 hours ahead in Victoria, Oz. its 02.30 there at 17.30 UK time. No email unfortunately, so looks like you're going to be making a call at 1 or 2 am!😀 Let us know how you get on. Good luck 🤞

Hi Dave, welcome in. Yeah this is the trouble with running a 46 year old machine! and the availability of parts! I know I've got a 78 DTMX myself. Not aware of anyone remanufacturing them, but occasionally they will come up as New Old stock as people clear their shelves of old stock if they haven't cleared them already. You don't say where you are and this is a worldwide forum; the site owner lives in Australia and I'm posting from the UK. Certain parts are becoming rarer and are commonly called hens teeth, and these are a good example of them ! Having said that, I've found a pair in Australia for you. https://www.remarcables.com.au/Motorcycle-Parts/Ring-Plastic-Steering.aspx These are only small parts so won't be difficult to post out of Oz, I've bought things on ebay and had them shipped over, its no big deal. Worth contacting them if you want new ones.

P.s.. That rubber plug gives you access to do a visual inspection of the brake shoe thickness. .

On My DT the adjustment stop for the brake pedal is on the frame, you might have something similar, or the bolt may be missing, worth a look??

Hi Doc, same set up as my 400/4, Although on my brake pedal there is an adjustable stop to....well ...stop! whats happening to yours!! It is a case of moving the the drum brake lever on the splines and adjusting the rod to get the best position without fouling the silencer, but there is not a lot of spline positions available as the cut out in the shaft for the pinch bolt limits the available movement. It's just a case of trial and error to find the sweet spot. As regards to the amount of travel, on the one hand you don't want just a touch of your foot to lock the brakes up!, but there again, you don't want to be moving your foot so much that you wonder if the brakes will ever come on!! It's really down to personal preference to how much travel you give yourself for applying the rear brakes, I know when I've adjusted mine, I've thought WOOOHH that's not right!! and promptly readjusted it until i felt it was comfortable. Lengthening the brake rod by adjusting the screw/nut should push the brake pedal away from the silencer Incidently on my 400 I have a brake shoe wear indicator on the hub, new shoes, shifts the rear brake arm further back to accomodate the new shoes, and that in turn repositions the brake pedal. So whilst the brakes may be sufficient for the MOT, they don't actually look at the amount of shoe left, so it might be worthwhile inspecting the amount you have left, as the pedal touching the silencer may actually be the reason and new shoes may also solve your position problem. Hope thats of some help.

Sound advice indeed Snake.👍👍

On the plus side , you've got a working key!! and just to reassure, I've looked at the guy on ebay, and he does have good feedback and he only sells keys. So there's every chance it will indeed be okay and you won't lose your bike! Having said that I'm a suspicious ol' scrote just like Snake, but it should always be prudent to check or consider these things in the "Am I giving away too much information" scheme of things!! We look out for each other, but i think it's likely you're safe on this one.