NE0

P.s.. That rubber plug gives you access to do a visual inspection of the brake shoe thickness. .

On My DT the adjustment stop for the brake pedal is on the frame, you might have something similar, or the bolt may be missing, worth a look??

Hi Doc, same set up as my 400/4, Although on my brake pedal there is an adjustable stop to....well ...stop! whats happening to yours!! It is a case of moving the the drum brake lever on the splines and adjusting the rod to get the best position without fouling the silencer, but there is not a lot of spline positions available as the cut out in the shaft for the pinch bolt limits the available movement. It's just a case of trial and error to find the sweet spot. As regards to the amount of travel, on the one hand you don't want just a touch of your foot to lock the brakes up!, but there again, you don't want to be moving your foot so much that you wonder if the brakes will ever come on!! It's really down to personal preference to how much travel you give yourself for applying the rear brakes, I know when I've adjusted mine, I've thought WOOOHH that's not right!! and promptly readjusted it until i felt it was comfortable. Lengthening the brake rod by adjusting the screw/nut should push the brake pedal away from the silencer Incidently on my 400 I have a brake shoe wear indicator on the hub, new shoes, shifts the rear brake arm further back to accomodate the new shoes, and that in turn repositions the brake pedal. So whilst the brakes may be sufficient for the MOT, they don't actually look at the amount of shoe left, so it might be worthwhile inspecting the amount you have left, as the pedal touching the silencer may actually be the reason and new shoes may also solve your position problem. Hope thats of some help.

Sound advice indeed Snake.

On the plus side , you've got a working key!! and just to reassure, I've looked at the guy on ebay, and he does have good feedback and he only sells keys. So there's every chance it will indeed be okay and you won't lose your bike! Having said that I'm a suspicious ol' scrote just like Snake, but it should always be prudent to check or consider these things in the "Am I giving away too much information" scheme of things!! We look out for each other, but i think it's likely you're safe on this one.

Ok, well, presumably the chain is not touching the chain guard? (if it has one) Then it's going to be a process of elimination, If you're taking the wheel off, then run the motor in gear so the front sprocket just spins, see if the clicking is related to just the sprocket. Then put the chain on, and see if clicks before you attempt to realign the wheel. It may well be chain alignment, I'm sure there are plenty of vids on you tube, here's one.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4m9tdTN2OKo It will only be something simple causing it, especially if it was okay before!! Good luck let us know how you get on.

Hi there, Welcome Stevie, This sounds like it could easily be a dry link/joint on the chain, not uncommon even if new at the beginning, If its gone stiff and can no longer flex and move it will make a clicking noise, the faster you go, the closer the clicking. The front sprocket has the tighter radius compared to the larger rear sprocket so the chain only clicks on the smaller sprocket. Even a bit of crud could be causing the chain links to stick, and it only takes one link to click! Put the bike up on the centre stand and rotate the rear wheel by hand moving the chain over the sprocket, look carefully at the sprocket and chain interface, the dry link will not ride the sprocket correctly each time it comes around. Or take the chain off and bend each link backwards and forwards and somewhere you will find one which doesn't move so freely. Hopefully this will be the cause, its only my opinion based on what you describe, but thats where i would be looking first. Keep us all informed.

SILCA is the brand name of the key, and HON42 is the key code for HONDA. But of course if the cross section is the same as yamaha, then it doesn't matter whether the blank is for Honda or Yamaha. If the blank doesn't match Yamaha then of course there is a outside possibility that the ignition switch and key is from a Honda and has been retro fitted. Just a thought. A useful link to key blanks from the internet. https://ekeyblanks.com/content/IlcoDirectoryVehicle.pdf

Incidently Snake , are you named after this guy or the drink?

Having re read and re-read his first post Snake, I don't think now he was looking at buying a spare part, it was a question on why was the OEM one so expensive. Given the price, I for one thought it was request to source a spare Silencer, but its the downpipe he was referring to, which is rusty. It sounds like he's going to keep it and rust treat it. and in retrospect I think my reply actually included the reason why its expensive: its 34 years old, rare as hens teeth, has to be imported and thats why yamaha and Fowlers want over £200 for it.

Yeah, Sorry about that Doc, my mistake, when you said pipe I wrongly thought you meant the Silencer, not the down pipe. In which case, whilst Silencers are likely to be available as a Pattern part at least, I think a down pipe will more than likely only be available OEM, ...from Yamaha! and your odds on sourcing one will still be difficult. but ...hey I liked to be proved wrong!, Nonetheless I wish you luck.. Having said that Doc, re-reading your original posts, if you say the RX100 down pipe is available from £28 onwards, I'd be inclined to get one, if its that cheap and just see what the differences are and how close a fit it is, with a bit of fettling or gun gum paste might be all thats needed to get it to fit, you never know!!. Alternatively, ebay is probably your best bet for new old stock or a better than yours used one. Once again , good luck, keep us informed of your progress.

I've just been on You tube, looking at vids and comments on the RXS100 and 3 months ago a poster stated... I'm from the Southern part of India. I own a 1989 rx100. It is really tough to source parts. Yamaha alongside Escorts(an Indian brand) used to produce parts for the bike, but no longer. he went on to ask about parts in UK and the reply was, he was experincing the same situation. Well, looking at the part numbers you supplied and subsequently looking at the exploded diagrams of both exhausts, you can see straight away the mounting brackets are fitted in different positions. The frame for the RXS uses thicker steel and although may be of similar shape the mounting lugs must have been moved, hence the diffence in the mounting brackets of the exhaust.

"surely someone must sell pipes for all the other years.... " Not wanting to dampen your spirits but...even 1990 was 34 years ago! Manufacturers of OEM parts and pattern parts have to decided how many to make, bearing in mind how many bikes exist out there and how many were made and sold at the time! and how much demand there is for those parts, then you've got to store those parts. I've got a couple of 70's bikes BUT they were both popular bikes in their day with high numbers sold and still have a big following today as a large number of both machines are still around. Consequently they have a reasonable amount of parts available and remanufactured. I can't say for sure that the RXS100 sold in high numbers (in the UK) against the slightly bigger 125s and has the same following as my older machines, but I don't see them around, but i maybe wrong. Unfortunatley I think the odds are not stacked in your favour... Bit of googling, suggests the RX100/RXS100 was very popular in India. The RXS being made out of thicker steel and modified components.

Spain ....Nothing in UK? although you probably won't find one much cheaper than that Spanish one. I'd imagine that they hold their value on the second hand market too. ...if they ever come up!

another effective method is a hammer and a sharp chisel to knock it around and unthread it. Its a bit of an acquired skill, but once you get it going its comes off easily. Don't hit it on one facet of the nut, vary it.

Well, the good news is a SissyBar is indeed available for 2000 to 2005 models bad news...not cheap! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374879990826?itmmeta=01HW004KJQAFSN3135SP9XB8RD&hash=item574896b42a:g:egoAAOSw4vNkIWZb&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0G8DXxuvcuTkSOjSqvVeE%2BX%2FdCwJp2qK4dG1%2FgE9F%2F4QQ1K%2FWfuIIN7MoaQAgl3UhtSncHbTCbvUOJ3CxMuPe6Lm2fI%2FTlTvx7CbuMXfmsZhVC4EYsPoyTJdA6HVSJi544%2Fldhh007OUXQudEtueUo0CuW6yFSPhUtwNIWJwvdpY4oQ4IOE%2F2Bm%2F8%2FKncij2bFxANNB6c18DvOcSKQDWi8G4jAnZZmMVym7pv2LMAY3HqoMOFoC85qxA6p10cRiP0mX6UclE7ZKMD7mT0euekcc%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7K5koDgYw but now you know what you're looking for!

Hi there, a warm welcome from us all, Nice collection of big bikes you have there too. I recently answered a similar question about registration here. https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/47959-registering-an-old-bike/ where member mervin came to the rescue with the answer, Have a read that should point you in the right direction. I'd edit out your matching frame numbers to be 525 XXXXX, the first numbers relate to the model , but the last numbers are the serial number, and not that I don't trust people but i don't!! its a public forum viewed worldwide, and If I was unscrupulous, I could use your legit numbers to notify DVLA myself and clone your machine!!. Just looking out for you there mate. That aside nice to have you on board, look forward to reading your future posts.

another warm welcome from me.

Have you tried You tube? Lots of XS500 videos, too many for me to view, but I notice this blue one has the same size font on the side panels as your photo of the black one. it maybe a case of going through them as some may have the correct tank but not side panel and visa versa.

and a warm welcome from me too. All you guys seem to have BIG engine bikes! The biggest I've ridden is my 400. When you say coming back, were you a member here before? if so, what was your user name?

Keep it up Ray, I'm sure many of us can relate to your early days. If you want the ultimate closeness then the best bit is riding in the rain, and having a pond of water forming between the tank and your crotch!

Hi there, big welcome from me, I don't think your English is that bad, you've made a good introduction. well done.

Battery showing 10.5 when starter is hit so not too low but it could still be the battery? BUT... I thought you stated in your first post,,,,,, Bike has new battery.

...and if you can't tighten it...replace it, not expensive....and they don't last forever!

You need a circuit diagram to trace the circuit. Have you tried the R1 Community? They have a circuit diagram here. https://www.r1-forum.com/threads/annotated-wiring-diagram.642907/ I'd consider joining them also, somebody there might help shed some light on it as it may be a common problem with your bike.