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hi Geiger, DT175MX is 77cm, however, a useful site is Wemoto. just put in "yamaha Tacho cable" in the search field and a lot of the cables have lengths published. i.e: Tacho Cable Yamaha DT 250MX 1977-1982 Outer 800 mm Inner 825 mm Inner thread diameter 11mm Outer thread diameter 16mm if you leave out "Yamaha" then it lists some 120 cables for different makes. Presumably the part number is B38-2240 as I see there is one on ebay in USA at present.

Further to the above thread, I also replied with this which you may find helpful as it relates to the airleak i had..... This idle problem may well be air related, I had a not disimilar problem, albeit it would race away. But mine would not idle properly either until I solved the airleak. One solution to locate a leak (mine was the bottom gasket) was to make a load of soap suds bubbles and brush it all around the engine with an old paint brush whilst its running, any bubbling will locate the leak. (A similar method is used to spray WD40 on the crankshaft seal as mentioned before) Might be worth a go....its only soap suds!!! and you'll clean your bike at the same time!

Hi there, all very familiar!! have a read of one of my previous posts about my DT....

Sorry bud, I was just responding to the opening line... I don't see a lot of Brass studs/bolts being advertised. That's the trouble with text, it's not the same as conversation.

You don't normally see brass studs or bolts as brass doesn't have a high tensile strength and subsequently its threads strip easily. It's quite a soft alloy. Having said that it's easy to clean the threads of a steel stud if a brass nut has been used and it's been overtightened. You just pick out the strands of brass stuck between the theads.

Sure did and within 24 hours of the question....or perhaps you didn't realise you posted twice!

Hi Gordon, Had a look on google for you, came up with an exploded diagram of the ignition switch, and i assume you're referring to the switch cap cover as shown in the diagram labelled no 6. https://goparts.eu/en/genuine-oem/yamaha/scooter/xn-teo-s-125/2000/battery On bigger motorbikes generally these are a push on fit with lugs on the main switch body which holds it in place, it takes a small screwdriver to prise the cover over the lugs to remove it. Not saying yours will be the same but like I said "generally" they are fitted this way so no reason to think it would be alot different. A close up of the part number seems to confirm this https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/yamaha-parts/5adh25520000 hope thats of some help.

Hi scott, have you thought about replacing the crankcases,? might be a cheaper option. Theres a pair of crankcases on ebay for a DT125MX which are identical. I know they are in Greece but even with customs it would be cheaper. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-dt125-dt-125-mx-1978-2A600-engine-casings-cases-motor/124306021524?hash=item1cf1375c94:g:R-AAAOSwH2Be3CHk There was a thread a few years ago about the 125MX crankcase, and Airhead confirmed they are identical. Might be worth thinking about?

Don't waste your money Scott, i did my DT 175 engine without any of those tools. (I did use a flywheel puller though) The crank case comes apart really easy, i think if i did do anything .... i may have used a strategically placed bit of 2x1 timber and a gentle hammer. Just don't use a screwdriver to prise the two halves apart. I certainly didn't use any fancy tools. The clutch centre nut wasn't difficult either, a bit of wood that was all and socket set. I used 2 bits of wood under the piston to do the crank nut and a chain wrench on the generator nut. These photos may help.

Hi Nicomasala, I might not be able to help as regards to the engine casing compatiblity but I can give you some advice as regards to the welding. I answered a similar post the other day and my answer also applies here:- The casing is cast aluminium, if you're not familiar, they make a mould and pour in molten aluminium and it sets into the shape they designed, it's quite strong, but if it gets damaged it's a different story. In my experience aluminium welding is not that successful especially if its going to support something, it's more suitable to say,.. repairing the outer casing... to seal up a crack. (which doesn't always last). Regretfully you're looking at replacing the damaged casing with another or a new one. In my opinion the original casting is always stronger than a weld repair, it simply won't have the same structural strength and will likely break again when put under pressure. Might not be what you want to hear, but that's my advice, hope it's of some help, kind regards

Hi jack, The casing is cast aluminium, if you're not familiar, they make a mold and pour in molten aluminium and it sets into the shape they designed, it's quite strong, but if it gets damaged it's a different story. In my experience aluminium welding is not that successful especially if its going to support something, it's more suitable to say,.. repairing the outer casing... to seal up a crack. (which doesn't always last). Regretfully you're looking at replacing the damaged casing with another or a new one.

Hi Bud, looking at the parts diagram https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/900-MOTO/2018/TRACER/MTT850D/FRONT-FORK/2017_76703-76703/26/0/25207 there is no equaliser between the forks and two sets of internal springs are listed ,one for each fork! Mind you proving it that they left out the components is a different matter. Having said that, you're getting new internals fitted, but I certainly wouldn't be taking my bike back to them.

There are some decent good people about Mike and glad it turned out alright. Has anybody had any pillion 'mishaps'? well yes, only the once, fortunately it all turned out 'ok' albiet a very frightening experience. it was also about twenty years ago, when I offered to take a nurse colleague out on my 400/4, as she'd never been on a bike before and admired my bike parked outside. I took the bike out through the countryside of West Sussex and ended up about to join a straight stretch of dual carriageway along towards Chichester. It's a T junction and the road is clear both ways save for a left hand drive gutter sweeper parked in a layby down the road. There was no showing off but i pulled out and opened up the throttles as the road was clear. Then to my horror, that street sweeper pulled out across the road heading for the gap in the central reservation. It was a 90 degree turn and the driver was in the left seat! If i'd braked there was insufficient distance to stop so it was a split second decision to aim the bike at the decreasing gap and to lay the bike down which grounded the off side peg and we shot under the raised cab of the street cleaner. I've no idea how I came out unscathed as I righted the bike on the other side and went over to the side of the road. The guy got out of his cleaner and exclaimed he just didn't see me pull out of the side road. My nurse colleague said it was so exciting and didn't see the danger in the situation. Personally I was white as a sheet and never took another pillion again!

I didn't remove the cover on the clutch side as you can see in the last photo (This was the photo of the strip down) So i only removed the gearbox side as seen in the photos above. I only had to do this with one bearing. The other bearings were purchased as open. I referred to my strip down photos and the Haynes manual which also detailed the procedure if I recall correctly.

You're welcome Graham, I've added another photo above for you.

I took photos of all of my rebuild of my DT175MX, similiar to your larger 250. Here's some photos which may help. Above: The New Bearing being offered into position needs its internal cover removing prior to fitting. Above and Next: Prising the cover off the bearing with a small screwdriver. Not difficult. Not sure I removed both sides of the bearing though, I just followed my photos of what it looked like before removal, so they matched. This above Photo shows ALL the New bearings in place. This last photo shows the inside of the DT175MX Clutch side with the bearing side casing in place. So I did only remove the one side. The Internal side which can be seen in the two open cases photo above.

Hi Graham There may be nothing wrong. the Simplest reason might be that although you have it on the engine stand , it may not be replicating the angle when on the bike. If its front end is elevated then the dipstick will be in the oil prematurely as its pools in the corner so to speak. Having said that, there are a couple of things to consider, bear in mind the engine is merely two boxes, in one box is the gears in the other box is the clutch. The same oil sits in both boxes. The oil will fill both sides via the open bearings. How much oil did you drain out? Is the dipstick the right one length wise? When you replaced the bearings, were they identical replacements,? i.e open type not sealed bearings. Did you remove the side casing of any new bearing to make them open? (just thinking what might stop the oil getting from one side to the other). Was it all cleaned thoroughly? (sludge oil stopping the new oil from crossing over). Did you soak the new clutch in oil? I appreciate new cork plates won't absorb the missing half litre, but has the level now dropped as the clutch soaks up. I'm not for one minute suggesting you haven't done any of the above, but you said any ideas on what might be wrong. Hope this is of some help. Keep us informed.

Enjoying Caroline again then Mike? I stumbled across it about two years ago, and have it on most days. I like the fact that there's no adverts and minimal DJ chat, having said I don't mind if it's longer chat, at least it's not mundane chat and it is about the music! Unlike a lot of radio stations they don't play the same records over and over again, although you can hear the same ones often. All the DJ shows last 2 hours and the same show is repeated in the week (hence hearing the same records). weekends are varied but there's Dave Fosters retro chart show at 12. Never worked out how they pick the years chosen though! Then through the night until midday it's continuous records. Most of the records are the 60's and 70's (heavy on the 60's) some 80's and some early 90's . Caroline went off air in the early 90's. Hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

Y You're welcome Mike, Flashback is also available online, http://www.carolineflashback.co.uk/#home.html happy new year to you

Mike, if you haven't already you should consider downloading "Radio Caroline Flashback" radio app for your phone. It's ALL this type of music with no adverts at all. I have it on all the time. Be aware though there are TWO Radio carolines...one is Album tracks the other (Flashback) is the singles. 60's 70's and some 80's and early 90's. I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

Hi there Rigid, Welcome to the club, as regards to the type of engine paint It will partly be what type of finish you're looking for and what colour you're after! furthermore it might be helpful if we knew what engine you were going to paint. For example, if you're looking for concours type finish then you might be trying to match the right shade of paint and whether its a semi-gloss or matt finish, you might then have a limited choice. However, equally you might be looking for a suitable paint that you don't care if it's identical to the original or not, don't care what colour it is and don't care how long it lasts! You don't really give enough detail in your question. Having said that, i painted my DT175MX in Simonez Engine Enamel in a satin finish. I'm not sure if the original was Matt, Satin or gloss, i just wanted it to be black. There is no need to use primer it just goes straight on. I sprayed it in 2011 and rode the bike in all weathers, it's lasted very well, albeit it's gone dull in places but it hasn't flaked off. I strongly recommend it. However, i also recognise its not OEM, but I don't care, it's black.! Conversely with my Honda 400/4 i wanted it sprayed in near OEM as i could, and I matched the right shade of engine silver paint and at the time Eastwoods Silver engine paint was a perfect match, but unfortunatley it suffers from the effects of petrol and oil and comes off, just like the original did!! but its the right shade and to me, that's all that matters!! so i have to touch it up with a bit of spray every now and then, it still looks good. Hope that is of some help.

The photos appeared above, not sure how that happened as I didn't do anything! so i assume a mod has stepped in and helped out. Many thanks for that whoever it was.

Hi there, I recall it wasn't easy putting on the hose inside the oil pump housing, however, i kept a photo record so here it is and the method i used to install it. https://flic.kr/p/2kjYRbX I was hoping the photo would show instead of a link, but never mind, clearly i did something wrong! I followed Drewpy's post on the help page using embedded bb code, then part of it, all to no avail. so I gave up and ended up just putting the link in above.

Hi Scott, International Rescue here.! I've also got a DT 175 MX 1978 round tube swinging arm bike. I've got a photo of the loom under the tank if that helps, and I'm more than willing to take my tank off and photo around for you. I'm familiar with the electrics of this bike, see one of my main popular posts on 12v conversion if you're interested. I can send you the photos, if you PM me if thats any help. Plus if you happen to reside on the South Coast I could simply show you.

Hi Akleimer, you're right its not listed in the haynes manual, I've searched google with various combinations. "Autolube Output volume" seems to give the best results with people suggesting a maximum volume of 10mls/200 pump strokes at full throttle( the volume is altered depending on the throttle). There is some good information on another bike forum "Yamaha Enduros" with an excellent video on testing the pump. the same video is on Youtube, (or Youballs...ie you balls it up after watching these videos)