NE0

Did you get it off?

Was it completely different to the above? or was my post helpful?

Interesting Digger, I don't know the correct length, but I do know it's probably best not to mix and match different springs. ..........Having said that, had I been doing the clutch back in the 70's/80's I wouldn't have cared about the length or even mix and matching them!!, as long as they weren't broken! and I would have ridden the bike regardless......and I suspect everything would have been fine.

Today, I might be a bit more cautious like yourself and try and get the right lengths.

although as long as they are all the same, will 1.7mm (the difference between the smallest and largest) make a big difference?

I don't sound much help!!.....I'll shut up!

Okay, here's how it works, how a single bolt can remove the rotor. Its different to the DT magneto which has a full length tapered shaft. The XS 250 has a part threaded section within the rotor body.

N.B. the normal short bolt with its washer, holds it all in place.

So basically it seems you take out this retaining bolt and replace it with a longer bolt which pops off the Rotor.

I'm not giving up!!....been on Google... looked at the XS400 forum which states it's for the XS250 and XS400 bikes...

various searches there suggest the puller is just a bolt

The rotor puller Yamaha part number is 90890-01080.
It's an M16x1.5 bolt.

member Drewpy (is he the same?) says don't use a '3 jaw" puller as you'll f*** up the rotor.

 another member describes the procedure...

Remove the retention bolt that you still have in the photo from the center of the rotor, screw the bigger bolt into the rotor while holding the rotor stationary (manual recommends a special wrench), and rotate the rotor puller/bolt into the rotor. It'll pop off.
 

Cmsnl sell one..https://www.cmsnl.com/products/pullerrotor_9089001080/

hope thats of some help?

looks like we might be getting somewhere....this puller on ebay, specifies for a XS250, although maybe that's several tools in the kit?

Hope that's of some help mate.

and here's an XS250 Rotor on ebay, ? which suggests a deep internal thread?

In a different post the original poster has stated he can't use this method of puller as the rotor does not have an internal thread.

So I did a bit of googling, and came up with this, now i know its not for the XS250 but i wonder if the principle is likely to be the same as this tool is for a Rotor without the internal thread....just a thought.

Not quite sure how it works though as this screws onto the shaft but its not threaded on the outside either , unlike my DT one first suggested.

....and the crowd roared...Dutch takes the Gold...

53 minutes ago, DutchFJ1200 said:

he thinks it may be the coils getting hot after a bit and might need to be replaced.

He may well be right Dutch. I had something similar years ago on my 400/4, that has twin coils under the tank directly above the engine. One of them was playing up especially in hot weather. Heat from the engine and warm air from the environment was too much for it and it would often play up in the summer months. A replacement solved the problem. mind you it did take a long time to trace the cause!!

Not expensive..

https://www.squaremotorcycleparts.co.uk/products/ignition-coil-yamaha-fj1200-fj-1200-1988-1994

worth doing for that price, and yours will be 32 years old already if original!!

That's good to know Dutch, glad you got it resolved. Plus many thanks for getting back with an update, far too many posts remain 'open' with never an update. For the effort you'll find your name on the leaderboard with a thanks from me, and being the Olympics you might even get a gold medal post!

its early days, but you've got a silver medal now...another 'thanks' from someone else will knock me off the Gold!!

I guess he's referring to the magneto stator / rotor?

if it is, then the internal thread, highlighted in red takes a magneto puller,

the shaft is tapered with a woodruff key to hold the rotor in place.

one of these...

you put a spanner on the flats to screw it in to the rotor and a socket on the end and screw it in, which then pulls it off the taper. the indent in the shaft end takes the pointed end of the device.

Unfortunatley I can’t teach you how to read  a circuit diagram in a forum, its far easier to teach this from a video or in person.  Equally unfortunatley you can’t just guess where wires go either, it may well be a rectifier wire, but you need to identify the location of the rectifier first and look for the same wire there, presumably disconnected! To be 100 per cent sure you need some form of meter /Ohm meter to confirm the wire is indeed the same wire at both ends.  Regretfully waiting for a V75 owner to chip in with a bit of advice is in my opinion will be a long wait, the forum is relatively quiet these days with few members posting let alone replying, there’s a few regulars like Snakebite and Drewpy and myself but If there were any V75 owners they haven’t replied to any of your previous posts either!!

I think your best bet is going to be asking over on the facebook site , at least you’re going to be conversing with someone who actually has one! They should be able to help.

Obviously  we don’t want to see you go, but if you can let us know how you got on it would be of some help to others with a similar problem.

I see, if you have two red wires, generally the thicker one will be to the battery as it carries more current.  Does that help? (unless of course they are both the same thickness.)

can you take a photo and post it here?

Hi there Meatballs,

You could do with a circuit diagram, normally there's one in the small handbook that comes with the bike when new. If you haven't got one they are on ebay

Check out Yamaha V50 V75(E) Y70 V75A V90 V75 Deluxe Review Tecnical Workshop Manual Moto on eBay! others may be available.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305623479133?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=CsDtD4DpSo2&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=kQkCPASITQi&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

and then there's the good ol Haynes manual, there's always a circuit diagram in those. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/375504326373?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=CMx8Q1-ZTZm&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=kQkCPASITQi&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

and finally,

There is also a dedicated facebook group, which might be able to help you too.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/308851953995379/media

low oil level lamp is operated by a float switch which is a press fit in the top of the oil tank....

ahhhhhh, ITS the two stroke oil tank low level warning light, I thought it was referring to the engine/gearbox oil level. My mistake.

Generally Yamaha 70's bikes used Black as the negative. So if your battery fell out and the cables disconnected then the red connects to the wiring loom and the black connects to a tag on the frame. So look for a bolt head or screw within the distance of the battey (lead length). The wire probably broke off at the tab so there won't be the tell tale signs of where it came from other than the eyelet tab. What I'm saying is the black wire from the battery doesn't connect back into the loom.

Hope that helps to guide you.

Meatballs, in future could you add a little extra to your titles, it helps other people  in the future who are searching for problems related to the V75.  ie. Yamaha V75 wiring problem or something similar.

If you have a lots of titles called Yamaha V75, Personally, I wouldn't bother reading them all If I was using the search function.!

I contacted them last night via their 'contact us' page, they replied this morning....

 hi there ,Yamaha YZF1000 R Thunderace (1996-2001) OEM Standard Layout - Full Kit,  Of the three hoses, all different lengths supplied, which one goes to the rear? many thanks.

the reply from Wez...The shortest one is the rear.

There you go.

Hiya redBull, Have you tried contacting the person who supplied the Venhill hoses and simply ask which one goes where please as they are unlabelled.

You're welcome,

Have you fitted them yet?

does it go?

Are we there yet?

Whats for dinner?

Soon be Christmas.

Does it matter which one is fitted to the forward cylinder head, and which one to the rear cylinder head?

Yes, it does! ........looking at Square's overhead photo .... https://www.squaremotorcycleparts.co.uk/products/carb-to-head-inlet-rubbers-yamaha-xv535-xv-535-1987-2001

I see the vacuum tube is angled in two different directions. for A and B.

In my opinion which goes where should give itself up when it comes to fitting those vacuum tubes, as you want the angle of least resistance and prevent kinking. Having said that your vacuum tubes which probably are 'set' at the position, should enable you to pick the right one. When i say set, they have been in the correct position for many years so they will have a natural set position just waiting to be connected to the correct inlet tube.

and this photo has an Arrow for FORWARD so the two inlet rubbers are shown at slightly different angles, you just have to look at yours to match the picture, you've got a 50:50 chance of getting it right anyway!!

https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/535-MOTO/1991/VIRAGO/XV535-20KW-/INTAKE/70_6973-6973/B8/0/14359

Welcome in Meatballs......Ah the V75A..the Ol Yamaha Step-thru, haven't seen one of those in ages!!..

and the earlier one of course, which you've ALL seen before... ....on the membership pages!

As regards to your problem, It's far better to run on the oil pump (as designed by the yamaha boffins) than on premix. You can get it to run on premix of course, but fouling the plug and running too lean are just some of the issues you get when trying to match a pumps performance.

With todays modern fuels and additives ,You tube is the place to go to, to look up ratios for two strokes from people who have found the best ratios and mixes that work, with their two strokes..... but it would be better, in my opinion, to get the pump working again! Having said that, the reason for the pump not working may be down to availability of parts or spares. Afterall, 1976 is rapidly approaching 50 years old.

Trying to source fifty year old parts is going to be an issue,  as we all know! I've got a 78 DT175MX and an older Honda 400/4.

There again the DT was a popular bike and many, many were sold and spares, albiet pattern parts, are readily available for this popular bike, the Yamaha Step-thru? I'm not so sure there's a massive following or indeed an abundance of spares. The Honda C90 Step-thru sold in bigger numbers and there may be even a small following?

Let us know how you get on, but I'd bet the reason for going to Premix by the previous owner may have been related to the above instead of him seeking better performance!!

According to google, this page:-

https://www.motorbikespecs.net/index.php?flag=2&model_id=2147607&make=Yamaha

details the V75A specifications and the spark plug recommended is an NGK BPR6HS

Hope thats of some help...

A big welcome from me also, nothing wrong with turning 60, only a few years ahead of you myself. Old Ford? Consul? Zephyr? Cortina? I'm more interested in that than your XS400

Pretty sure I've seen these before on barrels on other bikes, I think their purpose is to centralise the long studs through the barrel, so the barrel fits correctly, as you first tighten the nuts up, they press into the top of the barrel and stay there. If the barrel is stripped/sand blasted and the like then you'd probably have to replace one or two. In the distant past studs that went through drilled barrels suffered from corrosion and you could never get the barrel off, these centralising washers (sacrificial as Snake points out) keep the studs in the correct place and the studs exposed between the cooling fins but not corroded onto the barrel but more importantly centralising the barrel and cylinder head.

Looks like you dismounted the headlamp in the end to drop it out of the way.  I'm sure the oil light and neutral light only come on together with the key before you actually start the motor, once running the oil pressure keeps the oil light off.

Incidently, I got offered 10% off from those  owners manuals from the ebay seller simply by looking at them for you. I declined the offer.

I reckon, it might be a case of unscrewing the headlight bolts slightly so the headlamp can be swivelled facing downwards, that might give you enough access to those two screws to the console.