NE0

well its out.... I tried a bit more local heat then sprayed it with pipe freezer...did that a few times. no luck. tried a bit more brute.....and a brass drift.....no luck. resorted to putting a hack saw through either side of the shock. that removed the shock. Then with a sawn off bolt, a socket, and the vice, I pressed out the offending ends. One side came out with a lot of force on the vice, the other side.....well no way was that going to budge on any of the above methods, I couldn't budge it, put an extension on the vice handle and tightened it then just when i thought I couldn't muster any more strength...BANG! the loud crack of steel and it moved about 4 mm...thats all, after that I just pressed it out in the vice. Paul, there wasn't any special washers either side, just a pair of thin metal flat washers, same diameter as the shaft , no nylon I can only assume the originals were long gone.. Any ideas on a replacement shaft?

hi folks Whilst the frame had been powder coated for some reason the swinging arm was just painted and now its all coming off. I decided then to reburbish my Dt's swinging arm so i've removed it for a proper clean and respray. However, now its detached i think i've discovered why it was never powder coated along with the frame.....the monoshock appears to be well and truly joined at the hip...so to speak! it won't budge. The haynes shows the joining pin as a shaft which should just drift out. I've soaked the pivot in Plus Gas overnight and tried gentle tapping, and I've tried a bit of heat from the 'ol blow lamp and i've tried a bit of brute..not Brut33 mind you!! perhaps I should pour that on it!! I'm fully aware not to burr over the pin otherwise it won't drift out ...but any ideas are welcome....

fear not Paul it would appear that Replacement barrels are available NEW from Wemoto (same page for whatever year you put in) you just gotta find a mere £113

Thanks for the offer Paul, but I was hoping to still be able to use them! I don't suppose you can guarantee that they will still work after you beat them?

Seems he's got more than one video...

Having replaced the ignition switch on my bike as you could start it with a screwdriver blade, it was so worn you could start it with the handle end!! I've now got yet another key! I really could do with only ONE key, trouble is I can't see how i can!!! I've now got 5 keys! The original key for the steering lock and another for the helmet lock which is non original. The new one for the ignition switch and one for the top box,plus the chain lock key! I was thinking about getting a locking petrol cap but that means getting yet another key!! making six! Surely I'm not the only ONE? Can anybody beat my set of keys?

I've just seen this , sent to me by a friend, I didn't see this original posting. I'm not sure if he's irresponsible or reckless or simply just mad! he's certainly got balls made of steel?...titanium if its stronger! I was always taught to ride on the assumption "treat everyone else on the road as a complete idiot.....that way if they do something unexpected you won't be surprised!" He's obviously got no regard for his own safety or the other drivers! This guy, clearly believes EVERYONE on the road will NOT turn into his path, change lanes unexpectedly or even open a car door.... On the various comments of the video on you tube and elsewhere (where I saw it) it mentions he's doing 87KPH on average (54mph) worryingly he's obviously done it before It does promote the question. Don't they have Police in Moscow? they obviously don't have cameras like we do! having said all that I must confess I find the video strangely addictive, (I could never ride like that) but in a sense you have to admire his ability to make split second decisions,even when there doesn't seem to be any seconds left to decide! then picking his way through the traffic, and fitting his bike through some unbelievably narrow gaps between cars....(especially after the 4 minute mark) This link fills the screen, press play and turn up your speakers!! Worth a watch, but I won't be trying to emulate him......I'd like to live another day or a few more decades yet at least....something i think the black devil will not be doing....... Anyway good music...I think it comes from the Matrix! NE0

German site? I think you're looking at the wrong post, mine was links to ebay for Yuniparts and Yambits wiring looms at £46 mark

Yup you're not alone, I too was riding to work on my 400/4 when some nameless bastard decided to pull out of a side road across in front of me, I slamned the brakes on and sounded my airhorns....he then shouted out "IMPATIENT C U Next Tuesday"!!! As if i was in the wrong!!!! hope he drops down dead with a massive coronary.....

Nev its a lot cheaper to buy a new one and fit it straight on, see this other thread for details, look for my post on page 2 and the links to ebay should still be valid, but they're under £50 new. thats a £20 saving and that doesn't include your time in making it!! DT175MX Electrics

Well done dave, seems like having cleaned the choke you solved it..... but looking at the thread, pauls first question was.... see he knows his stuff

just my pennys worth..... its not something simple like the engine kill switch being on OR a faulty ignition switch is it? Its just that I purchased a new ignition switch from yambits the other week, fitted it and the bike would NOT start, no matter what I tried. everytime i turned the key to ON it was being grounded, yet everything checked out fine until I turned the key... you can see the culprit arrowed, I simply moved the leg away from the solder and it all worked. I appreciate this seems unique and you are getting a spark, but are you testing the bike one way, and when it comes to actually trying to start it doing something different. if you're confident fuel is getting through, and you've got a spark...... is there anything else which is different........... i.e you're turning the key, setting the kill to off, the fuel tank breather is clear. Is there anything your doing at the time different which is causing the problem. I'm just thinking out aloud here... Are you cranking by hand, or standing to one side of the bike, are you doing anything different which might give you another clue where to look. Are you getting a spark at test start, Perhaps sitting on the bike causes a wire to be under stress and grounding like the kill switch...stuff like that?

yeah but it was a response to a feedline which, you got to admit he did set himself up for it,...I couldn't resist

Each to their own mate!....... If you like the taste of them thats your choice

As I said at the very beginning........

Obviously this thread is about converting a DT175MX, however, the principle will be the same for other 6volt machines with similar layout. The ignition side though, whether CDI or points, is a separate circuit and should be unaffected by any conversion. Remember, this conversion is about changing ALL the bulbs from 6v to 12v & Replacing the 6v flasher for a 12v one.( no need to change the horn) The major parts are the 12 volt battery and replacement of the two 6v parts: the rectifier and regulator and exchanging it for an all in one regulator/rectifier. However, I've had a look at the circuit diagram of the DT100B in my haynes manual and i see there is no regulator and the headlight is run directly off the generator whilst it charges the battery via the rectifier. Therefore its likely that the LIGHTING coil appears to be of low output and only capable of doing these two tasks. it would need a regulator if it was any more powerful. As regards to.. I think you mean the HEADLIGHT is still a 6v bulb but the rest of the bulbs are 12v and THEY all run off the 12v battery (which is charged by the LIGHTING coil) If someones gone to the trouble of changing all the bulbs and battery to 12v, In essence YOU have a 12v bike...but without a regulator I doubt you could fit a 12v headlight bulb.

well, it's been a bit of a windy day today! I certainly was aware of the top box on the back, but as regards to 'drag'. No i don't think it does that much. After all its not like having a pillion on the back. ....But it was great not to have to ride with the rucksack on, which is the main reason for putting it on.

Well here's a laugh for you, genuine period photo taken around end of 1977~1978, This was my first bike!......bike?.......alright scooter! I restored it ...i.e decoke and new rings and painted it blue!!! fitted the crash bars and air horns and added a load of mirrors and front screen. (yet to be added in this photo).but take a look at thoses flares...got to be 12 inches ( my feet were size 12) The best bit is this was BEFORE the mod revival which was a year or two away. I used it on the road to pass my test and used it for a couple of years before it was scrapped as an MOT failure so I replaced it with an Orange one and swapped the chrome and mirrors over, then came the MOD revival and I duly sold it for over £250.....that was a bloody fortune then!! Talk about being in the right place at the right time.......I only paid a few pounds for it!!

Come to think of it I used washing up liquid to put the buggers ON!!

you could always wait until it rains hard! Have you ever noticed they always start to move about during a downpour!..well mine do!

No way.... My 1976 cb400/4 is NOT fuddy duddy!!! we're seriously going.... here boys!!

Looking at your earlier photos, I see your bike has the round tube swinging arm, so I assume is an early DT175MX i.e 1978-1979 (mines registered 79 but is a 78 model which Paul helped me to understand) However, knowing YOUR luck and that you've got the wrong loom it would be funny if you've got a early swinging arm on a later frame wiring looms for both the round tube and the later square tube are available. i know 'cos I bought one! Yuniparts do the earlier loom for the Earlier round tube 1978 2K4 2K4 = engine/chassis number 2K4-000101 onwards. feb 78 into 79 and it also fits 2X2 = engine/chassis number 2K4-010101 onwards. during 79 only as the wiring diagram is the same in the Haynes manual ISBN 85010 300 3 QH034 click here and Yambits do the later looms 4J4 with the Later square tube. 4J4 = engine/chassis number 2K4-020101 onwards. 1980 to feb 85 click here I purchased mine from Yuniparts, the looms become available periodically or you could email them. I swapped mine only a few weeks ago AFTER my 12v conversion. N.B these ebay Links might be invalid if you're viewing this post after july2011 They only last a few months after they have been active

...and now with GIVI removeable topbox in matching colour scheme!

Hi Phil, I must confess I'm very pleased with my 12v Conversion of my MX. As you've just read it you'll see I've added that I've recently upgraded the headlight to 45w and its clearly a lot brighter, I appreciate its a lot less bright at low speed i.e stopped at the lights, but thats so far not been a problem, Once you're off its bright enough, not as bright as my 400/4 light, but then the diameter of the Hondas headlight is a lot bigger and a few inches lower which clearly makes a difference. I won't be converting the bike back to 6v thats for sure.

Well no luck getting an original, one did come up on ebay recently i did have a bid but it went for a bit more than I wanted to pay (Got a feeling that was you selling paul ) I kept up a fruitless search on ebay, but in the end decided to 'modify' one I purchased a buy it now rack for a Skyteam ST for £12 being black it meant I didn't have to worry about any chrome. I promptly cut off the fixing brackets and set about fabricating a pair of new arms with my MIG welder. Keen eyes will have noticed I also fitted a helmet lock, my DT was missing the original one and on ebay a NOS one was over £50. However, i purchased one for a XS250 for £15 and fabricated a mount for it welded onto one of the arms. A quick respray later and I think it looks ok........what do you think?