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As Regards to your spelling...... I cdnuolt blveiee taht I cluod aulaclty uesdnatnrd waht I was rdgnieg. The phaonmneal pweor of the hmuan mnid aoccdrnig to rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoatnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteer be in the rghit pclae. The rset can be a taotl mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit a porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe. Incredible eh?

it turned out to be the same problem I had on my replacement ignition switch This post from shows it in detail..... Its just that I purchased a new ignition switch from yambits the other week, fitted it and the bike would NOT start, no matter what I tried. everytime i turned the key to ON it was being grounded, yet everything checked out fine until I turned the key... you can see the culprit arrowed, I simply moved the leg away from the solder and it all worked. whats the chances of it happening twice??? glad to have been of service!

Very kind of you OG, and I might well have taken you up on the offer if the seals were only a few years old, however, 20 year old seals won't last forever, and perhaps prevention is better than cure. I do recall, back in the late 70's, a neighbour who used to replace all the hoses on every 2nd hand car he purchased, and he never had any problems with leaks and coolant loss (something which many cars had back then) years later he went on to replace the cam belt on his new cars to reduce the risk of future problems and be reassured that the parts were new and fitted correctly, so perhaps a little of his philosophy has rubbed off on me! The latest news is all the engine parts have now arrived...just got to pick them up from the post office as i was at work when they arrived.

The good news is ALL the parts are now here (Thanks to Paul for the S/S tube) and the swinging arm is now back on along with the rear wheel. The bad news, and don't ask me why! but for some MAD reason i decided to strip down the engine and replace all the seals and bearings! The receipts I got with the bike show it had a rebore and seals replaced around 5000 miles ago BUT that was over 20 years ago, so whilst they might not be worn that much I think the seals may have become hard and brittle over time and I want it to be reliable for the forth coming winter, so i made a decision and its now it's being reverse engineered!.....full strip down .........its now in bits and waiting on more parts! doh!

Nice one OG, ...if he takes a brand new one apart it might be a miracle if it still worked after he puts it back together!

I wouldn't bother, its not really an issue. Nobody expects NEW clocks or replacement clocks to reflect the true mileage of any vehicle, you just tell them its go new clocks. But if you're really serious you could dismantle your new clocks completely into its components and manualy advance the wheels of the odometer...... but honestly you risk F***g it up!!! it really would not be worth it, However, before you start thinking shall i attach an electric drill and run it at high speed to advance the mileometer.....it doesn't work in the way you might be thinking.! i can assure you with the drill at high speed you might even get the needle to show 100 mph, But this means it will therefore TAKE 1 hour to advance the mileometer 100 miles!!! if you left the drill on for 24 hours the mileometer will ONLY read 2400 miles. To advance the mileometer to say 40,000 miles it will take the drill 16 days running 24/7 to reach 40,000 miles and a load of electricity and probably a new drill!! or several!!! the drill method is really an Old wives tale...........

George, I'm from Brighton, and living along the road, I'm sure I can spare some time to help you out... PM me and i can arrange to come over.

There is currently another thread of mine which is about refurbishing my DT175MX's swinging arm, and there is a photo of the earlier round tube version form 78-79. Is it anything like the photo i took or is it a square tube one? However, It might be helpful if you can take a photo and post it so we can see what you're referring to.

Well good news folks the new chain rollers arrived to go on the nice new swinging arm, I'll shall be busy this weekend putting all back together....hopefully. Any news on the stainless tube Paul?

I've noticed when you reply to a topic, the most recent post is truncated (if its a long post) so you can't see what was written in order to reply. Plus the images are missing in the summary.. Previoulsly this worked fine The workaround is (to view the most recent post in full) is to open another tab and bring up the post again.and simply tab between the two as you write your reply......

You like your nipples don't you Paul... lol I think I need to adopt your improvement to the tensioner arm, not sure where I can get a bit of stainless tube though!

Good news, all the parts are back at home and all looking the dogsdangly bits in gloss black. 5 parts in all:- swinging arm, chain bracket and tensioner arm, sidestand and brake pedal. £50 the lot. Just waiting on a new chain roller to arrive and I can put it all back together.

Yes Paul you can put me down for a scan, be good to read it. I've also only just noticed but the tank graphics are slightly smaller on Clives restored version. The original coloured panel takes up a lot more of the tank than Clives new decals. Clives before photo has the same tank graphics as mine.

Latest news...the company who's doing the powder coating has mislaid the parts with someonelses order! When i phoned they asked which parts did I bring to them and could i describe them! They took some notes and said they would phone back...that was yesterday, today no phone calls! I'm not over concerned (at present) afterall they have had a finite number of parts since last week and a finite number of customers. Shouldn't be too dificult to trace the parts....one hopes! Plus I guess someone else may be wondering why the swinging arm for a DT175 doesn't fit their Harley!!

Anything and everything is possible!, sometimes you just need a bit ingenuity. You don't mention which year it is so i guess its similar to this one, http://www.2dehands....x-84589864.html As you can see its got a rear rack fitted and if you can get a rack then most top boxes come with universal fitting plates to take a top box. and if you can't find a rack then a rack can be easily modified with the aforementioned ingenuity! I modified a rack for another bike and put a Givi box on it with its universal bracket for my DT

I've been busy recently, swinging arm rerurbishment, new brakes and bearings and I've NOW I've repacked the rear can, and made a video of the process, just got to find some time to edit and upload it.....that won't happen soon, thats a wet weather day!! and the news?................it sounds a lot better now!...and slightly quieter too!!

I'm currently having the swinging arm and some minor parts powder coated to match the frame, I've got new swinging arm bushes and bolts along with new bearings for the wheels and nice new brake shoes. Hopefully have all the parts back by early next week....

We ought to start a 1978 MX appreciation society! I paid £1200 for mine in january and have spent an additional X amount on it since!! Mines got slightly larger graphics on the side panels? I assumed they were genuine but looking at the brochure cover and Clives I see the D and the O centres are blacked in, so I guess mine are replicas... This was before I put on the rack and mudflap a few weeks ago.

Hi welcome to the YOC but you might want to read this post first in the new members section Then pop along to the index and at the very top is the new members section...

You know I didn't even spot that! I must confess I thought the photo on Wemoto was just a stock photo of a barrel.....I'll get me coat! (Fast Show)

well its out.... I tried a bit more local heat then sprayed it with pipe freezer...did that a few times. no luck. tried a bit more brute.....and a brass drift.....no luck. resorted to putting a hack saw through either side of the shock. that removed the shock. Then with a sawn off bolt, a socket, and the vice, I pressed out the offending ends. One side came out with a lot of force on the vice, the other side.....well no way was that going to budge on any of the above methods, I couldn't budge it, put an extension on the vice handle and tightened it then just when i thought I couldn't muster any more strength...BANG! the loud crack of steel and it moved about 4 mm...thats all, after that I just pressed it out in the vice. Paul, there wasn't any special washers either side, just a pair of thin metal flat washers, same diameter as the shaft , no nylon I can only assume the originals were long gone.. Any ideas on a replacement shaft?

hi folks Whilst the frame had been powder coated for some reason the swinging arm was just painted and now its all coming off. I decided then to reburbish my Dt's swinging arm so i've removed it for a proper clean and respray. However, now its detached i think i've discovered why it was never powder coated along with the frame.....the monoshock appears to be well and truly joined at the hip...so to speak! it won't budge. The haynes shows the joining pin as a shaft which should just drift out. I've soaked the pivot in Plus Gas overnight and tried gentle tapping, and I've tried a bit of heat from the 'ol blow lamp and i've tried a bit of brute..not Brut33 mind you!! perhaps I should pour that on it!! I'm fully aware not to burr over the pin otherwise it won't drift out ...but any ideas are welcome....

fear not Paul it would appear that Replacement barrels are available NEW from Wemoto (same page for whatever year you put in) you just gotta find a mere £113

Thanks for the offer Paul, but I was hoping to still be able to use them! I don't suppose you can guarantee that they will still work after you beat them?

Seems he's got more than one video...