NE0

I never wear one either. However, I always do my best to ride just in front of big juggernauts!........nobody ever turns into the path on them!

Very Nice indeed......Is it Yamaha or aftermarket, and was it specific to the DTMX range or did it fit others? Either way, thats a great find you have there,................ebay?

Seems they were never buried at all..........just an urban myth. archival records showed that the RAF unit that handled shipments through Rangoon docks only received 37 aircraft in total from three transport ships between 1945 and 1946. Most of the Spitfires that were in Burma at the time appear to have been re-exported in the autumn of 1946 http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-21483187

if its a tight coil like a spring then it will be a stripped thread from a bolt hole, not normally the bolt itself,( they tend to loose the thread and the threads get worn away) The bad news if the thread is stripped theres nothing for the bolt to thread onto...you may need to consider a helicoil if they do one that size..... On the other hand a tip for the future...... I've always replaced my sump bolt with one of those magnetised ones. example here.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAGNETIC-MOTORCYCLE-OIL-CLEANING-SUMP-BOLT-ALLOY-10mm-/320584663278?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4aa455c0ee That way any metal parts will be 'kept' in one place, until the engine oil is changed. never of course had any bits but its an insurance and piece of mind should it ever happen.

This might be one of those Urban myths but............. Apparently if you piss on your car windscreen its like a deicer and keeps the frost off ......................Bet that stinks too after a few hours!! and I expect you'll end up with footprints in your bonnet!....... unless you've got a good aim!!!

....and if you do use vinegar for anything, it needs to be White Vinegar which is actually clear not white. but whatever you do don't use Malt Vinegar. Thats the Brown stuff you put on your chips!!! They are different and the Malt stinks of vinegar compared to the white one!!!

However, if we do end up with ALL electric vehicles....due to health and safety they will probably have to have a "noise maker" added so you can hear them coming!!! I bet we'll have a load of EU rules too, so everybody will sound like ice cream vans!!! OR they'll have different "sounds" for different vehicles OR "Greensleeves" for cars!, Beethoven for trucks! and motorbikes?.....................Terminator intro!

Sort of.......but not road legal!!! Ice speedway have spikes in the tyres, superb grip!! http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fichier:Eisspeedway_Maschine_05.JPG

I just thought she had nice tits!

Was that from touching the FRONT brake? Trial bikes can do well in slippery mud, snow is not that different providing its deep enough! its when its ice or a thin layer of snow which acts like an ice rink is the problem. I recall riding across snow fields in the late 70's without any problem.......only to take a spill when rejoining the roads and all the slush and ice.

Thanks Paul, Why couldn't the haynes manual have put it in your simplified way? I've just been down the shed and done it ,................. I won't tell you how much it was out by ! But I could have used the slack as a security chain!! I obviously didn't do it right the first time! I've got a feeling I did it with the bike on the pit shop stand..... I'll still go ahead and get the sprocket kit and do it right next time too! at least i can use it for work until the weekend.....

Last night , for whatever reason my drive chain jumped the rear sprocket cog and came off! No damage! the engine stopped! I came to a stand still pretty quickly..........nobody about!! When I rebuilt the motor last year and had the wheels rebuilt, (foolhardy i know!) but I never replaced the drive chain and sprockets at the time! I just reused the old ones (I know I didn't know its history) Its done now ok?................don't go on! Anyway, back to reality! I know what needs to be done, new kit from Wemoto this weekend! I guess its all down to adjustment, which is where you fellow DTMX guys know a tad more than me! My 400/4 is easy to adjust, you pull the rear wheel back and adjust the chain tension with the bottom part of the chain for the up and down play.....easy.....No automatic chain adjuster! DT....auto chain adjuster!, loads of slack chain! seems its got about 20 links more than it should have!!! ....ok bit of an exaggeration! What's the correct way to adjust the rear chain with these tensioners and are there any nuggets of information and how to do it for the best results! Anyway with such a title i'm hoping you'll read how to do it the easy way from all the Easy Tip posts to follow..........over to you guys!

Thanks for your input speedshop..wise words I'll repeat an earlier post! for those contemplating the conversion......... As I said at the very beginning........ Of course i never said that ANY Cub 90 regulator would work, I did a quick search on ebay and the right one is often available..... The combined regulator/ rectifier used is from a HONDA C90 cub G model 4 pin version suitable for a late 80’s. bike. SH570-12 / 6.7 011

Yes all the 12v bulbs are just standard car/motorcycle bulbs which makes the conversion worthwhile ........as I've got loads of them!!! As regards to a relay for the headlight , yes its all possible, i did think about it but i wanted to keep the conversion simple, All this is reversible without any cut wires. Plus the 12v battery, is not huge and you often don't get something for nothing. As it is the battery is certainly capable of running the tail light and pilot light, with the occasional indicator and brake light going on, but to take an additional 45w out of it to run the headlight may be too much....the charging circuit keeps it charged with whats used at the moment , it just might not be man enough to keep it charged if the headlight is run from it as well. That said it might work, it is more work of course: additional wiring, relays etc, but for what it is, the conversion works well enough...(for me anyway) not to bother taking it any further, however, feel free to give it a go.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/APF-12v-45-45w-Headlight-Bulb-/271087594212?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f1e146ae4 Readily available, various prices! These fit my DT.

Mad perhaps? but I was to and fro to work on the DT in ALL the rain, got..........'kin soaked!! but the ol DT kept going, despite driving through the rain! only saw a couple of bikes...die hard fans like me! My waterproofs.....................are not!

There's no reason why it shouldn't work on your bike, Once all the bulbs have been replaced with 12v, the battery runs that circuit. the bottom line is simply the generator charges the 12v battery and runs one headlight! Whilst the coil is capable of doing the required work The payoff is the headlight will not be as bright at lower revs ie below approx 3000. Thats all this conversion is about. .

I Had to replace a blown tail light bulb the other day, first time since the 12v conversion. Which is not bad after over 18 months of use. (I did blow a speedo bulb at the beginning but it was 2nd hand to start with) This led me to develop a way of monitoring the replacement bulb (as i was unaware it had blown) read about this project here.

Not very likely!.......especially now that i've 'published it' for free on the internet! knowing my luck, somebody will see this and then market it, making themselves a millionaire! but...hey! why would anybody want to buy a purpose made one, when they just need to buy a fibre optic audio cable for £2.........or 99p from ebay via china!! and now I've been pinned too!!............

.........unless authorised to do so by a police officer.

I found 6....I guess I'm a genius

A few weeks ago I was riding home in the dark when a car pulled alongside and the driver shouted various obscenities about me riding without my lights on,...........what he meant was my tail-light was not working....everything else : the headlight, brake light, indicators, horn was all working fine! Nonetheless, I was unaware! I'm sure it was on when I left but it wasn't on now! Without a spare bulb or screwdriver to remove the lens, I nursed it home using the brake light to show cars where i was, and rode home taking my hand off the brake when there was nothing behind me. The journey took a little longer but there wasn't that many cars about at 11pm. Afterwards, I set about solving the problem. In the first instance, I've now got a LED bicycle light connected to the back rack. so if the rear tail light ever goes off again i've got a 'get me home' solution. The other aspect was how do you know when your lights are not working? Seeing the light bulb working when you pull away is fine but if it fails how do you know? I tried changing the angle of a mirror, but its fiddly and its difficult to see the actual back of the bike, equally head over your shoulder........well you can't keep doing it every minute! I wanted something at the front to tell me if the bulb was working! Heres how i did it..... By chance I saw the red light glowing on the back of my DVD player at home! It was the optical output! I then found the short optical cable that went with it and went down the shed! Sure enough held against the lens the other end glowed red, not brightly but it worked. With the principle working, I purchased a 2m Fibre optic toslink cable for a couple of quid off ebay and fitted it to the bike. There is no need to do anything to the cable, it's a 100% plastic, no metal parts to rust and it works underwater! To improve the performance it works better aimed at the bulb. So I drilled the reflector and fixed it in position. I could have easily drilled the lens and plugged it in there too, but fitting it inside looked better. A quick bit of threading from back to front I ended up at the dashboard with little to spare. a cable tie later and its very discrete. I also found leaving the clear rubber protective cap on spreads the light better. it's down to personal choice Its very discrete and gives you that reassurance that the bulbs are working at the back, all visible from the riding position and even better...... uses NO electricity! The bonus is it glows even brighter when the brake is applied, checking the state of both filaments. One solution for two bulbs......anagram of one is NEO...........I've called it a NEO-light. .

Hi rosa, You don't need to post anywhere else, there is a risk that my post will go off thread. Afterall it was about a DT175MX The headlight WILL go dim at lower revs, it can't not do The output would have shown the original designers that only a 6v bulb would have a brighter light at lower revs, which is why its a 6v bike, if they wanted 12v: the coils/stator would have been a bigger design, but that may have affected the design of the engine and so forth. Remember your bike is 1970's technology. The 12v conversion enables 12v equipment to work but the draw back is the headlight will not be bright at lower revs. but for me and those who have done the conversion we accept this. Like I said in my post, there is no guarantee it will work on any other bike, but it works on mine. If you've checked the wiring and read the principles of my work and it applies to your bike then only you can take the next step. If it works, then add your bike to the list, if not , .....well it may have only cost you the price of the parts You have to way up the risks. Whats the worst that can happen?, although unlikely, however it will depend on your knowledge of wiring....... you could fry your electrics!

DT.... The NHS is not insurance. There is a system in which fees are charged back to the insurance company, Once you book in via A&E, details are recorded and 'somehow' it goes via insurance, I'll check with the coding girls how it all happens, I know they do some treatment codes at the end of the episode, but i'm sure a lot of it charged back to Primary care.

Nydamon, Earlier I posted I find this bulb quite alright for city riding, my lights are on day and night, unlit roads are ok, providing the revs are kept up, as you slow to a stop then a candle might be better!!! but otherwise I've not had any problem. Its not a searchlight, but you can see quite clearly where you are going. The best bit is the availability of 12v parts, brighter brake and turn signals and a good sounding horn! and for those thaat may not be so sure....I can convert it ALL back to 6v without having cut a single wire! no harm done! I blew my first tail light bulb yesterday,! it lasted from march 2011 until now doing over 2000 miles. I also charged the battery for the first time but only because I wanted to give it a boost, no other reason, i.e it wasn't flat! The conversion works fine for me.