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Hi there Meatballs, You could do with a circuit diagram, normally there's one in the small handbook that comes with the bike when new. If you haven't got one they are on ebay Check out Yamaha V50 V75(E) Y70 V75A V90 V75 Deluxe Review Tecnical Workshop Manual Moto on eBay! others may be available. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305623479133?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=CsDtD4DpSo2&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=kQkCPASITQi&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY and then there's the good ol Haynes manual, there's always a circuit diagram in those. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/375504326373?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=CMx8Q1-ZTZm&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=kQkCPASITQi&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY and finally, There is also a dedicated facebook group, which might be able to help you too. https://www.facebook.com/groups/308851953995379/media

low oil level lamp is operated by a float switch which is a press fit in the top of the oil tank.... ahhhhhh, ITS the two stroke oil tank low level warning light, I thought it was referring to the engine/gearbox oil level. My mistake.

Generally Yamaha 70's bikes used Black as the negative. So if your battery fell out and the cables disconnected then the red connects to the wiring loom and the black connects to a tag on the frame. So look for a bolt head or screw within the distance of the battey (lead length). The wire probably broke off at the tab so there won't be the tell tale signs of where it came from other than the eyelet tab. What I'm saying is the black wire from the battery doesn't connect back into the loom. Hope that helps to guide you. Meatballs, in future could you add a little extra to your titles, it helps other people in the future who are searching for problems related to the V75. ie. Yamaha V75 wiring problem or something similar. If you have a lots of titles called Yamaha V75, Personally, I wouldn't bother reading them all If I was using the search function.!

I contacted them last night via their 'contact us' page, they replied this morning.... hi there ,Yamaha YZF1000 R Thunderace (1996-2001) OEM Standard Layout - Full Kit, Of the three hoses, all different lengths supplied, which one goes to the rear? many thanks. the reply from Wez...The shortest one is the rear. There you go.

Hiya redBull, Have you tried contacting the person who supplied the Venhill hoses and simply ask which one goes where please as they are unlabelled.

You're welcome, Have you fitted them yet? does it go? Are we there yet? Whats for dinner? Soon be Christmas.

Does it matter which one is fitted to the forward cylinder head, and which one to the rear cylinder head? Yes, it does! ........looking at Square's overhead photo .... https://www.squaremotorcycleparts.co.uk/products/carb-to-head-inlet-rubbers-yamaha-xv535-xv-535-1987-2001 I see the vacuum tube is angled in two different directions. for A and B. In my opinion which goes where should give itself up when it comes to fitting those vacuum tubes, as you want the angle of least resistance and prevent kinking. Having said that your vacuum tubes which probably are 'set' at the position, should enable you to pick the right one. When i say set, they have been in the correct position for many years so they will have a natural set position just waiting to be connected to the correct inlet tube. and this photo has an Arrow for FORWARD so the two inlet rubbers are shown at slightly different angles, you just have to look at yours to match the picture, you've got a 50:50 chance of getting it right anyway!! https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/535-MOTO/1991/VIRAGO/XV535-20KW-/INTAKE/70_6973-6973/B8/0/14359

Welcome in Meatballs......Ah the V75A..the Ol Yamaha Step-thru, haven't seen one of those in ages!!.. and the earlier one of course, which you've ALL seen before... ....on the membership pages! As regards to your problem, It's far better to run on the oil pump (as designed by the yamaha boffins) than on premix. You can get it to run on premix of course, but fouling the plug and running too lean are just some of the issues you get when trying to match a pumps performance. With todays modern fuels and additives ,You tube is the place to go to, to look up ratios for two strokes from people who have found the best ratios and mixes that work, with their two strokes..... but it would be better, in my opinion, to get the pump working again! Having said that, the reason for the pump not working may be down to availability of parts or spares. Afterall, 1976 is rapidly approaching 50 years old. Trying to source fifty year old parts is going to be an issue, as we all know! I've got a 78 DT175MX and an older Honda 400/4. There again the DT was a popular bike and many, many were sold and spares, albiet pattern parts, are readily available for this popular bike, the Yamaha Step-thru? I'm not so sure there's a massive following or indeed an abundance of spares. The Honda C90 Step-thru sold in bigger numbers and there may be even a small following? Let us know how you get on, but I'd bet the reason for going to Premix by the previous owner may have been related to the above instead of him seeking better performance!! According to google, this page:- https://www.motorbikespecs.net/index.php?flag=2&model_id=2147607&make=Yamaha details the V75A specifications and the spark plug recommended is an NGK BPR6HS Hope thats of some help...

A big welcome from me also, nothing wrong with turning 60, only a few years ahead of you myself. Old Ford? Consul? Zephyr? Cortina? I'm more interested in that than your XS400

Pretty sure I've seen these before on barrels on other bikes, I think their purpose is to centralise the long studs through the barrel, so the barrel fits correctly, as you first tighten the nuts up, they press into the top of the barrel and stay there. If the barrel is stripped/sand blasted and the like then you'd probably have to replace one or two. In the distant past studs that went through drilled barrels suffered from corrosion and you could never get the barrel off, these centralising washers (sacrificial as Snake points out) keep the studs in the correct place and the studs exposed between the cooling fins but not corroded onto the barrel but more importantly centralising the barrel and cylinder head.

Looks like you dismounted the headlamp in the end to drop it out of the way. I'm sure the oil light and neutral light only come on together with the key before you actually start the motor, once running the oil pressure keeps the oil light off. Incidently, I got offered 10% off from those owners manuals from the ebay seller simply by looking at them for you. I declined the offer.

I reckon, it might be a case of unscrewing the headlight bolts slightly so the headlamp can be swivelled facing downwards, that might give you enough access to those two screws to the console.

I wouldn't put to much hope on that one Doc, so few members post these days and the chance of a fellow RXS100 owner coming to the rescue,....you will have stripped down the headlight and replaced the faulty bulb long before then!

How funny!!! This one .....is for the RXS100.....but details my Honda 400/4 in the description!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235600682459?itmmeta=01J044BDGYP4KNTK641NQB3DHT&hash=item36dae51ddb:g:uFEAAOSwYm5kRo7l&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAACADbBC%2FXrUNNO%2FlPgm30si6nd7yW0AipGvdbDh%2Box7rD1izA5Eh1f8il0gm%2Bb7zfNuSNZpzjUS2moxYCHT0FA6tNFzixFESu03Oda6Y5mvzI%2Bq3%2Fn3SBbMREpOOY5GWvT7jzjwVzECS1fSJvncyTZZwLrsXcejMTxcTOdMlvVI3evFgSobG%2BMY1eUvfValY2dX0U7C3HWNBITPM%2BBheve9J5IurDjCFE606N16FU23EaQ0vGdXEHpyDQtSyyHpMFt7loefQUzxWurHWXm0eqQ6gyv4sWUxbWNuZAeTSYN3EK0Mhb4QXV94e1PaVzCui5%2Fw%2BHYz%2FDAm6KXPzybcOWTO8FufH1AcxiFfOSWOPXq51PwBLvL9cpM9Y9PUswId4Ylmy3SM2rPF9ii8beH9qbCYILl05DhmTBcnguw780ZcPbZa4xSv3WRAxKUF8xQnyi3lMa%2FPSumrZCowjV7UP39gXQhjUy1gLur8gt1TmcI4QxzELcMK3tFtRl6wGOq--ZSa7RY4pMFv%2FEOfwC1cXWZ8DF%2Bq3cMP6wKPguxJxgo18a7FcekonS%2Fm4LKWEZh7DLzOOC1ay78urUCypwwvn06wU7IIjOTsA332E9clTRtf%2BptTHgiBXH3tRY1W4VRGFvtN1IZJWjDntbwSrsIMn4U%2B0ERN%2FlL%2FNfondvz1TpwxvJs|tkp%3ABFBM2NithIFk

Its quite possible that you're going to have to remove the headlight to gain access, having said that, whilst the haynes manual might not mention how to change bulbs in the module, the smaller Owners manual which would have come with the bike is the likely place to find instructions on how to change them. This little book....https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235341192253?itmmeta=01J043YY59T1P4TZY2TR0KEP7A&hash=item36cb6d9c3d:g:uFEAAOSwYm5kRo7l&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LXObfEkQPr0c575R0kffTG4WY7jOw8CQcSFOu13PYq20MJVDKVpt85hrjQLUSgEEwmjoUtdpLlcc1Y6tNH4%2BrUECEkVhs71%2BRymVk%2BGZuJw3eR%2B%2FhxLM%2BMO1lCKtUS2Wptp%2B4jqzLJruEBxAGxKENuOSFrOO5AH66AtCBGxvnOyNWNGxgMkjwrtM3eNcYPSeM6dybkvSeW23J16792i67ZqHlfmu6tRzYj1dlQLLkTSEQih%2Bwouj7eHccskqmZ6b7zv7JzyggYJrbjkMW4AjgnbRDWLzMaqvHpiHiz%2FFfl0I1eqVT95QUR0g8%2BXr7mf7w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMhuP7g4Fk you may already have a copy.

Are you referring to this Doc? This is on my Honda 400/4 but from your description it sounds similar A photo often helps...

Parts! Got some? or you want some? Got a feeling this is a bot or spammer!

A quick google search reveals that: Orange Coolants are also known as OAT coolants. OAT coolant stands for Organic Acid Technologies and is specifically designed for newer vehicles that contain more nylon or aluminium parts in them. whereas blues and greens are typically ethylene glycol based coolant. What it does go on to say though, is you shouldn't mix the colours.

So I assume with all these new parts , including the plug, its been set to the right gap and not just used straight out of the packet? having said that you say it runs at higher revs when you open the throttle, but not so good at lower revs. i can't see it being related to the plug but a higher reving bike at throttle will be glowing nicely and burning fuel correctly, at lower revs it will be cooler (not much I admit) but it's a possibilty. On the basis that the electrics are working as they should, afterall you sound like its had it all replaced, coil, plug, etc, I doubt its the plug cap, as they either work or they don't, but again, its worth a check to rule it out. I think therefore the likely culprit is going to be fuel related. and when I say fuel I include its delivery AND its air/fuel ratio. which carb are you now using , the old one or the new one? Is the carb the correct one in the first place? are you satisfied the old carb is the OEM that came with the bike when new. This would be one of my first questions. Devils advocate here...its not a 175 carb on a 125 is it?

Hi there, according to CMSNL website, which lists other bikes to the part number, it states: 576-81350-11-00 fits models DT175 1974 USA DT175 1975 USA DT1C 1972 USA This product fits to 3 models. We are showing the first 10. Please log in to see all models. On the plus side they do have one in stock!! but it's not cheap! and on an ebay.com listing the advert states: Part Number: 576-81350-11-00 Fits: DT175A - 1974 , DT175B - 1975, DT175C - 1976. But the photo doesn't show a close up of the rotor for the stamped number.

I agree with Snake and I think my earlier quote will apply to your efforts

Trouble is James, so few members these days seem to post, a few years ago the site was quite busy with lots of regulars but they seem to have moved on. Hopefully somebody with an answer might come along but it could take a while / weeks +. In the meantime, as you say no harm in trying another silencer, but you might have to do a bit of fettling to get it to fit and be gas tight. Good luck keep us posted.

Hi there Boxoffrogs, you've unfortunately posted in the wrong section, this is the area for 1st posts to introduce yourself, this needs to be in the Workshop section. As you're a paid up member you can be forgiven, hopefully a mod can move this into the right section. As regards to your DT cylinder , is this a Psychic one? which i think means you need their 70mm race carb to go with it as it's not compatible with the OEM carb. see ebay photo in their listing..https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303728870851?itmmeta=01HYG5QDDRHVF8964F7Y944430&hash=item46b7a6c5c3:g:jacAAOSwVI5haWBL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwDaUsbdex5Z%2FN%2F%2BeVDKSxvLRGMTuGxYA58GZnk0VNgNrMmiz1O4x%2Fe%2Bo2peb%2B%2B13MeGLpf9Xy%2B%2FIQB8%2BnvKl688piZg5w3vDIhIguWQq7J91Gz7xt3pHMo%2FYppxpNzxSglAmHzHLGvT2%2BkRYZENreX3qzShHmEOoQX9AuUP6qf6eV%2FcCGzyq99Inak%2FkOMHHAdJWPvmVM3iCYU2F%2B6MKXHB3UWdfU0eCAOcoqUbdH5Tl6WLsmKl05zgii4PQlfIbcw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4rX3YX0Yw

Ahh can see now, you're referring to this bit? yes?. ..and you have already worked out the cause and remedy. It's very common for parts like this to have a bronze sleave lining/bush inside and it's that part that has probably worn away causing the boss to move about on the pivot. You can fabricate a new sleeve providing you can find a similar material, I know this because taking bikes apart you come across various bodges that previous owners have tried to varying degrees of success. So the part you would need is the arm itself as the lining bush will be part of it. That's why it doesn't show up on the parts diagram. and if there wasn't a bush then the boss is just machined metal with a close tolerance when new which has simply gone oval over the years. The two options being: to either ream it out so the hole is equal all around (remove the oval) and fit a metal sleave/bushing of uniform thickness. or cut a sliver of metal and try wrapping it around the shaft, i.e bodge it. You can get thin tin brass, metal sheets in modelling shops, that you can try fabricating one from, try ebay. something like this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145190789050?itmmeta=01HYFM8YJR8XNME4P2JJBPXDRV&hash=item21ce0b9fba:g:JnIAAOSw16hkrgAq&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwF1kt81QocyvSrSnVPobJjdkDG7uW3KM%2F4gs%2FS1p4jjAj773U51RvIl9E4q0Rw4kGb8CdrvFVuG2%2FIGtIq0MdhmdaJYIWBpQCPXcxmxvMWGO3HGbZvFP9Rq9lWvRBbJQVwjuIjL40DoIrxvZV%2Bvx%2F7Pnkj3%2FPY4I6ds4ddUWxo1C%2Btfey1YsMC0heHBRbVDaxF40Nc0uVgQYosEBcGAwmCOs3C9hUdY4KPJnbPRi%2BWWPgn4Mfk01R6oMM%2FrFXk0%2FEQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8Tpo_TzYw

That is good news, Glad you got it sorted, I did say it's going to be something simple, sounds like different tolerances on the two sprockets causing the issue with chain. Thinking about it, I have a vague memory of something similar on one of my bikes in the long distance past that required a swap out of poorly machined parts, I don't recall the noise you describe but the solution was replace with a different sprocket to cure the problem. and well done for coming back with the end result. All too often there are multiple posts that remain unfinished with no conclusion or report back. I've given you another like on your last post there to help put you on the leaderboard.