NE0

Yup, you can't pull the wool over my eyes..I've also noticed in the first photos the swinging arm has been attached to the wrong end!

and more Lol.....you forgot to take the after photo of the rear brake arm

Not to worry............... the Americans won't! Too much Chrome on all those Harleys and Old Chevys to stop doing there!

Coming along nicely there mc I've also noted.... You've done such a good job of polishing the brake arm with the before and after photo that you've manged to polish a rear brake arm to make it look like a front brake arm in the after photo.

You can buy a can of spray which mimics nickel cadmium plating , well i know you used to be able to get it....Eastwoods i think! Aj, having got the same bike, and replaced my rear fender, unless you intend just to take the bike to shows and show off the underside somehow, there really is no point in getting it coloured identical to the original. You can't see the top as the plastic mud guard covers it, and the underside gets dirty when you ride it, mines coated in antirust and appears black but I struggle to see it under the rear wheel. Are you really sure you want to? I don't think its worth it, keep it clean and rust free yes but original? I don't think its worth the effort.

and on ebay, a new old stock (NOS) one's up for sale with 11hrs to go (@9am) and its already reached £91........ http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/yamaha-nos-dt175mx-dt125mx-dt175-dt125-2a6-mx-dt-inner-gaurd-175mx-yz-rd-/131345003961?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item1e94c5b5b9 it will be interesting how much this used one goes for too.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-DT125MX-DT175MX-DT125-DT175-DT-REAR-FENDER-MUDGUARD-METAL-SUPPORT-/121491588456?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item1c49768568 as regards to the handlebars, mine are a slightly dull black (mines a white 78 too) but under the switches, having removed them recently, the paintwork is still a bright gloss black. Plus you can also see the light 'reflecting' off the handlebars in the photos in the original brochure which suggests it was gloss.

I thought you said earlier.... you seldom go out?

If you're stripping it for the first time, get a digital camera and take loads of photos as you go before and after every bit you take off. It will help when putting it back together exactly as you took it apart. Doesn't matter how many photos you can delete them afterwards and it won't cost you a penny in processing the film!!! You can strip every bit down to its components knowing that a quick look at the Pc or view screen you can see how it came apart.

Peeked? Reminds me of the time I went for a meal at a Chinese restaurant and ordered the "Chicken Surprise."......................... The waiter brings the meal, served in a lidded cast-iron pot. Just as the wife is about to serve herself, the lid of the pot rises slightly and she briefly sees two beady little eyes looking around before the lid slams back down. "Hey, did you see that?" she said. He hadn't, so she asks him to look in the pot. He reaches for it and again the lid rises, and he sees two little eyes looking around before it slams down. He calls the waiter over, describes what is happening, and demands an explanation! "Please sir," says the waiter, "what did you order?" The husband replies, "Chicken Surprise." "Ah... so sorry," said the waiter, "I bring you Peeking Duck."

False economy mate............ Plenty of crap came out......plenty of crap still in there too! I guess its all down to trust.....personnally I wouldn't trust it. BTW Learned something interesting..it was pointed out to me if u can see a sort of flower insignia inside the piston..then its cheap crap..stay way. here's something interesting to learn too.......if you see crap inside the engine....don't replace the piston and rings and small end with new as they won't last long Good luck with that one . Hope it turns out all right for you.

Not probably the best title I've seen! However, I'm wondering if Up yours is referring to a similar problem, as I too can't copy and paste into a post. I can do it with logging in using Google chrome but if I log in with windows IE11 it does not allow it, unless I select compatibility view, then it works but doesn't look great! I'm running windows 7 but its only recently, as in the past 6 months I've had this non copy and paste problem. but its certainly not a Sh*t forum

if the air screw has never been touched, ....I'd leave alone. This idle problem may well be air related, I had a not disimilar problem, albeit it would race away. But mine would not idle properly either until I solved the airleak. One solution to locate a leak (mine was the bottom gasket) was to make a load of soap suds bubbles and brush it all around the engine with an old paint brush whilst its running, any bubbling will locate the leak. (A similar method is used to spray WD40 on the crankshaft seal as mentioned before) Might be worth a go....its only soap suds!!! and you'll clean your bike at the same time!

Probably is just a screw as the carb body will not be any different. In the supplement it also goes on to state: Note: Later US models only- where pilot air screw is marked 'preset'. it is set at the factory and should not be disturbed except by qualified personnel using the correct equipment Whats all that about then? Are they discouraging DIY for a reason? Risk of being sued? or just one of those Amercian things? Although my view is If thats what it says.....................its just asking to be taken apart!!

If you've had the carb apart what groove did you put circlip onto the top of the needle? Having said that, I've just looked in the Haynes manual in the supplement pages 118/119 for the 175G its states its FIXED ie no slot. Its also interesting to note that for the pilot air screw it states PRESET. I assume from that its not adjustable. Perhaps thats why Airheads not seen one?

and from the film Under Seige............an even better rack! http://image.tmdb.org/t/p/original/mlgIbPltSeFsfPLZQj1zCg9WFAy.jpg

Looks like mine.... mine leans over too, but this photo below, with the Givi rack on , she's sitting on a block of wood to show her upright.

Fitted the exhaust today, can't believe how quiet it is with the correct exhaust on! £20.........I look like the Cheshire cat!

Good news all around..... Stripped the top end down and replaced the base gasket, cleaned the piston and rings (might as well) Installed new reeds and new inlet rubber and then started her up, sounds sweet again! nice tick over and started practically first kick. No lean runaway (although won't be able to confirm that until she's hot again when I go to work tomorrow but no reason to doubt It hasn't been solved) Then I proceeded to install a replacement original exhaust system courtesy of some chap i met at the petrol station. See this post for details And now it sounds amazingly quiet!!...... boy did I have a noisy end can before!! Now its all done... I'm going to have a lay down in the sunshine and top up my tan as I doubt this weather will last much longer!

Riding home about a week ago, filled up with petrol and as i returned to the bike there was a bloke standing next to the DT and he said "This your bike?" Immediately thinking "What have i done?" oR "oh shit.. now what?" I replied , eeerrrr yeah. ((In retrospect I could have said "No mate i walk around in leathers and helmet cos I ride a horse!!!"....although good job I didn't!...............)) He replied....."I used to have an identical one and I've got a complete exhaust for one of these at home you can have!!!..........." Just been to pick it up, sure enough complete original exhaust for £20........Result! Down pipes had a repair and its got a pinhole but its better than mine!! just goes to show that just because some blokes looking at your bike it might turn out better than you thought! I shall get it repaired and fit it on......Nice start to the day eh?

or write to EBC? http://ebcbrakes.com/contact-ebc/

Etats Unidos????

First... are you sure the bulb is ACTUALLY working? filaments intact visually is NOT a guarantee! Here's a post i did from someones similar problem............. (Here's my post repeated here) Get a short length of wire, attach one end to the +ve battery terminal, hold the headlight bulb metal casing to the -ve terminal. then touch each of the bulb contacts with the wire end. The dip and beam filaments will glow with equal brightness, proving the bulb is OK. If both filaments are working then YOU know by elimination it is the circuit of the main beam which has the problem. A likely source of the problem is the electrical contacts within the light switch, which selects dip or beam. You see it is one power wire from the battery which is diverted to either the dip or beam filament within the switch. Dirty contacts within the switch prevent the current flowing, thats what Airhead is suggesting to you. Testing the bulb as above will confirm the bulb is in good order.

Traced the faults......................AIRLEAKS. Blowing or sucking!...... the cylinder head base gasket leaking. and cracked carb inlet rubber joining the carb to cylinder head. Smeared builders silicone around the base gasket and over the carb rubber. Whilst it only lasted one journey and a bit before coming adrift, the engine didn't runaway. However, once the heat took it off when I came home and stopped and got off the bike...........off she went!! Problem isolated at least. Purchased new gaskets and inlet rubber and a set of new reeds (might as well change them) so should be a permanent fix. Its actually probably been leaking for longer than I thought. I've turned into a detective!...... The clue was getting off the bike to unlock the gate. Up until last week my wife has been opening the gate before I got home so i could ride straight in, of course as soon as i was in i killed the engine at low revs. it never did a runaway. It was only as the nights have drawn in I said leave the gate to me. which meant getting off the bike and walking away from it. those 20 seconds or so of tick over and air leak resulted in the runaway. So Holmes thats what happens...said watson!

Been busy 'googling' this problem, eventually found what appears to be the problem.........anyone heard of LEAN RUNAWAY? Its often related to AIRLEAKS just as cynic suggested. According to various websites:- Although not a complete answer in this post it points to leaking seals and inlet rubbers as a possible source of the problem http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-30/dt175-poor-idle-run-away-reving-help-43078/ other sources altering the mixture/air ratio..... fuel related runaway When you start to run out of gas, your fuel/air mixture can lean out. A lean mixture will increase combustion tempuratures. So basically, when you lean out, your bike will begin to produce more heat. This extra heat creates a hot spot inside the combustion chamber, usually the tip of the spark plug. It gets RED hot, hot enough to ignite the fuel without a spark. Now it's running on it's own, which creates even more heat. More heat means the tip of the spark plug gets even HOTTER, which ignites the fuel even easier, which creates more heat, ect... This is why it is called a runaway, it feeds on itself. Hitting the kill switch or pulling the spark plug wire doesn't fix the problem, because it's not running off the spark anymore. http://www.atvriders.com/vbb/archive/index.php/t-105214.html The solution of stopping the runaway........ not the cure Ok for all you 2 strokers that has had this happen... Do this:- turn off ignition and or kill switch and pin the throttle wide open! The second that you do this the lean condition gets eliminated and the engine will die. This is provided that the bike has proper main jets or on the rich side. Runaway engines happens when the conditions are just perfect with being too lean and the sparkplug becomes a glowplug. When a engine has a proper fuel ratio the fuel will kill the glowplugging and if the ignition is off the engine just shutdowns and dies. Chuck Team Scream Racing http://www.2strokeworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=18755.5;wap2

Thanks for your replies so far... I've been also 'googling' theres a chap on the ATM website who describes the SAME problem, but as usual doesn't come back to say how it was fixed http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-30/dt175-poor-idle-run-away-reving-help-43078/ The answer at the end about a new choke is identical to the same reply on another DT175 post the poster has the same name. Probably works for the company which sells chokes! It's happened again today!! but I was sitting on the bike this time, ie I didn't get off and put it on the side stand! Looks like I need to get my spanners out!!!!!!!!!!!....................