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hi there, could well be one of Dream Machine paint jobs. Up in Nottingham i believe. Might be worth contacting them, they'll recognise their own work. They'll also likely tell you if it came from Yamaha like that. No harm in sending them an email.Good luck.

Cynic is always spot on, you can trust his advice phil. Similar thing happened on my DT and cynic knew it was an airleak then. One of my old posts might help you..

Did someone here buy it?

Hens teeth they may be! But they do come available on ebay every now and then.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-XVS125-DRAGSTAR-2002-CARBURETTOR-CARB/392352703482?hash=item5b5a0b23fa:g:ecIAAOSwgSJdNw99

Hi there, the likeliest explanation is fuel coming from the overflow pipe. You say you've not had it long. So by that statement you probably dont know its history other than the verbal spiel the owner gave you. If a bike hasn't been used for a while, the fuel left inside the carb evaporates. This process can empty a float chamber and on the face of it, you think its a process where it all disappears. Unfortunatley whilst it does disappear it also leaves behind a hard varnish like product referred to as shelac. It can build up and over time goes dark brown. This varnish can not only block up fine passageways but also make the moving parts....stop!! The film can build up on the float chamber pivot and stop it moving freely. Often getting stuck in the down position as if the float chamber was empty. As fuel pours in the float doesn't move to close off the inlet and fuel will fill the chamber and into the overflow. This can be quite alarming!! it can appear temporary or last longer. Turning the fuel stopcock "OFF" solves the inflow of petrol and that might be enough to let the float recover. Which means it can appear intermittent fault. The bottom line however, is it all needs a clean.!

hi, I assume you've used the search option on the top right and put in the words "derestrict" ? I just did that and there was four pages of information. Meanwhile, take a few moments to introduce yourself in the New members section, just say who you are , and a bit of friendly banter and you might find some members who can help. Welcome aboard.

Hi Rick, You say you're hopeless at electrics! so don't be offended if i say have you checked the bulbs? The DT has two circuits. The battery powers the tail/brake light, side light, indicators and horn. Meanwhile The magneto/generator ONLY powers the headlight bulb. The headlight is on a DIFFERENT circuit to all the other bulbs. Tracing faults is a process of elimination. The fact you have a working brake light shows there is power from the battery. Therefore the fuse must be intact and by default the earth for that bulb must also be intact. (The brake and tail light bulb shares the same earth) The rear bulb may have a damaged tail light filament, incidentally just looking at a filament is not enough to say it's intact. Sometimes it may visually appear to be intact but may not work. It's easy to check bulbs with a piece of wire and the battery. Explaining how to do it..... well heres a video on you tube Substitute your battery for the one in the video and touch the contacts on the bottom of the bulb separately to test them. One does work (you already know this because you said the brake light works) which means if you can't get either to work you're not doing it right. Equally, if both filaments work then the fault lies in the wiring circuit. You can test ALL your bulbs first this way to see if they are the cause and replace them accordingly. The next part will be tracing the fault in the wiring if ALL the bulbs work using the above method. Hope this helps. Let us know how you get on.

I had my Honda 400/4 frame powder coated along with the swinging arm, battery shelf, and a few bits and bobs. I stripped off all the paint to save money they just dipped it prior to powder coating it. i appreciate mine was done over 30 years ago but it's still perfectly intact today. A little dull in places but all the hard to reach parts are unaffected. A friend of mine sanded and painted his frame similar time and his rust came through the paint in only a few years. He then stripped it all down again....and repainted it, not unsurprising it lasted a bit longer but the rust particles still came through. Back in 2011 i had the DT175 parts powder coated 5 parts in all:- swinging arm, chain bracket and tensioner arm, sidestand and brake pedal. £50 the lot. All still looking good and the DTs been well used in the rain. I'd go with the powder coating myself. PS It's not a sin to mention its a Honda Cynic.! why the hashtag?

Don't laugh Cynic....., I was logged on as you!!!

Hi Mike You're referring to a MONOSTRAP bag or "Mens crossbody bag". Careful... crossbody bags on ebay is mainly ladies handbags/shoulder bags!

Mines an early DT175MX with round tube swinging arm first registered in May79 but built in 1978. The number is 2K4 3XXX. That might give you an idea or at least a date to work from.

You mean this nut in the miscellaneous kickstart parts! https://yambits.co.uk/kickstart-levers-rubbers-parts-kickstart-parts-c-241_97_895_898.html

Yambits do various bits of course https://yambits.co.uk/dt125r-kickstart-lever-p-4983.html not sure if this one fits? other parts available on their site, just have a look around. https://yambits.co.uk/kickstart-levers-rubbers-parts-kickstart-levers-c-241_97_895_896.html?osCsid=gmfrhocv229l7ohl2ac18juad4

Hi Dicky This might be helpful to you. It maybe that you're already aware of the pages... https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/13/kick-start-conversion-dtre plus some useful photos near the bottom of this page https://dt125r.activeboard.com/t35899660/dt125re-kick-start-conversion/

There's a V50 breaking for parts for sale on Gumtree in Norfolk. You could buy the engine, and see if you can get it rebored to a larger size?...... just a thought.

Hi there Rentaspoon, I thought I wrote it quite clearly but let me recap:- look at the key positions marked I, II and III *****READ THE ROWs ACROSS**** key position I; The red wire goes from the battery and is switched to the brown (This goes to the indicators, brake light and horn) The headlight is not lit up on this key position. Look at the GEN. the white wire (charging wire) goes to the reg/rec and then onto the battery to charge it via the red wire the other white wire comes to the switch. We know from the first page posts that the OUTPUT of the generator on the WHITE wire is anything from 11volts to 26 volts (depending on revs) This amount of voltage would fry the battery. So it is connected BACK to the reg/rec via the YELLOW/WHITE wire (on the right side of the pic) to 'clip' it and reduce the current going to the battery to charge it This will cause the reg/rec to heat up and the fins help dissipate this heat thereby cooling it down. Key position II: The red wire goes from the battery and is switched to the brown( doing the same as above) and is also switched to the red/blue wire (This ADDS the tail light and pilot light) The GEN white wire is still connected to the battery via the reg/rec BUT the white wire which goes to the switch NOW does nothing because in switch position II it is NOT connected. (The battery is still charging but the output on the white wire has been reduced because the lighting coil inside the generator is now being used) So now look at the YELLOW wire from the GEN ( on the left) This carries the output of the lighting coil to the headlight. It is switched to YELLOW/RED wire to run the headlight. BUT we also know from the first page post the the OUTPUT on this yellow wire is anything from 6v to 16v depending on the revs. Prior to the conversion the headlight only required 6 volt. ALL excess voltage was reduced by reg/rec on the YELLOW/WHITE (right side wire) The reg/rec clips the output to 6v otherwise the output would blow the bulb. Using a different 12v reg/rec, this clips the voltage to 12volt enabling the 12 volt bulb to be used in the headlamp instead of 6v The right side YELLOW/WHITE wire is still connected to the reg/rec and the unit still heats up as above. Unfortunately, the generator STILL produces 6 volt at low revs, because the generator has NOT been altered/replaced. therefore at low revs the 12volt bulb will glow dimly on 6v output. It only glows brightly once the generator produces 11volts plus. Does that help?

PS. For those in the UK: I did ask them if they have any European oulet for their exhausts, but sadly they don't. The cost of shipment was too high hence it was an ideal opportunity when my mate said he was going to NZ for a holiday and the premesis was only 20 minutes away!

Hi again Brett Exhausts seem to becoming a bit rare here in the UK too. However, I bought an exhaust repair front section from New Zealand!!!! Musket mufflers do a repair front section for 78 to 81 and 84 to 2003. They also sell a rear muffler 78 to 2006. All on page 2 of their catalogue (scroll down for the images). https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2202/5551/files/YAMAHA-mufflers.pdf?13346045109935610301 A friend went to NZ for a holiday and brought it back in his hand luggage! I welded it onto a good exhaust which had become rusted through on the U bend.. Worth checking them out.?

Have you tried Wemoto? https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/xj_900_f/87-90/picture/marving_master_4_1_complete_system_chrome https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/xj_900_f/87-90

https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xj900f-1989-3ng1-europe-293ng-300e1_model37800/partslist/0004.html https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/900-MOTO/1987/XJ/XJ900F/CRANKSHAFT--PISTON/50_4960-4960/B3/0/10008 You're right!...... but i'm sure when I found them they came up as add to cart!! ....but clearly not now! However bike parts has the option of contacting them, might be worth doing that. On the plus side you now know where you can get other parts and part numbers! This page lists the other bikes it fits Heres another website which lists the 1987 part but offers check availability https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/yamaha-parts/1987-xj900f-motorcycles/crankshaft-piston

Hi there, Depends on year but looking on cmsnl.com website i found under XJ900F 1989 0.5 oversized pistons (not .05) and the 1991 0.5 piston has the same part number of 58L1163600. they are available to buy. A 1987 xj900F which has a different part number 59L116360000 the Pistons 0.5 are also available at bike-parts-yam.com But I couldnt find .05

Hi Chris welcome to the world of classic motorcycles! I've just had a look at the website you refer to and find it very similar to cmsnl.com which has all the same parts diagrams and perhaps different spares available. As regards to the details and year of the model, you will often find slight discrepencies of vehicles that were produced pre computer!!! Back in the 70's there was no data being stored on computer! it was all in parts catalogues and micro-fiches. A bike that say was manufactured in late 1974 might well appear in the part catalogues as 1975 model by the time a new parts catalogue had been printed! Today when companies add data to their websites i dare say they are not adding all the original data from these catalogues so there will be an element of 'rounding off'. Most of the times they will be spot on, but you have to allow a year either side with additional checking as part of your format when sourcing spare parts. especially when looking for something which is nearly fifty years old! Your website you use is in the USA so you may have to wait for a fellow member to say where they go for keys and replacement locks. In the meantime, why not pop over to the New members area and just post a brief introduction about yourself and where you are, you may meet some fellow bikers from your neck of the woods who may well help you out in the future. All the best.

If it's NOT rattling, then there's no need to reset it!! Yes It is done when cold, I would imagine with the plug missing and the new gasket someone previously has been doing something to it. If the engine runs smoothly and there is no cam chain rattle there's little to be gained by a re-adjustment. Personally, I'd leave well alone, especially as you're not that familiar with motorcycle engines....yet! Put in the new plug and enjoy riding it.

It leaks from the centre because it's just a push in plug and it's probably nearly 40 years old! Oil is pumped to the top of the camshafts and runs back down all the open galleys, over the cam chain and back into the sump. Oil also drips from the lowest point so the chances are the gasket the tensioner housing is also shot. The chain tensioner is automatic by the action of the spring. To adjust it, you loosen the side screw, the spring pushes against the tensioner moving it forward taking the slack out of the cam chain and the screw is then retightened. They're not perfect by any means but they do function. N.B Honda 400/4 engines are well known for their "cam chain rattle" even after they've been retightend!! PS. Just re looking at your photo.....it looks like the plug is actually missing! hence the leak! (The gasket is bright green suggesting it's been off recently too.)

Welcome Rok, good to have you on board. I've answered your same question you posted in the Project section.