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(I know its an old topic but the title still stands.) UPDATE: Having recently moved further along the coast I sent in my V5c for change of address for my DT175MX and at the same time, I thought I'd change the taxation class to HISTORIC VEHICLE as she's now over 40 years old. Both were relatively straight forward, although there was some red tape and hoops to jump through! They changed the address first and sent the new V5C back to me along with a V10 form to fill in and send both back. (even though I'd done all this on the 'change my details' of the original.) Seems a bit of waste of postage as all i did was put my name and address on it and the bike details along with change of taxation class!) A week or so later I've been sent another V5C with the new historic taxation class. No fee to pay it was all done 'free' save for the price of two stamps! So now both my bikes are 'HISTORIC VEHCILES' and subsequently the MOT is down to my responsibility as above.

I use mine for commuting to and fro from work 15 miles a day, three or four days a week and I get around 100~110miles per tank. (7 litre. 1.80gal tank size). semi urban traffic, several sets of traffic lights and roundabouts so tend to be up and down the gearbox a bit. Mainly 30~45 mph. I remember a few years ago I did a trip along a dual carriage way , several 5 to 10 mile stretches for over 20 miles, I must confess , I didn't like running the engine at a constant speed/revs, it got hot and it wasn't very comfortable. In my opinion being a TRIAL bike, its not really designed to cruise, but is better suited to go over rough ground with lots of rev and speed changes. If you're looking at cruising for several hours I'd be looking at a road bike myself.

That post Dan... was back in December 2015 !!!

I've just been trawling through a few piston ring manufactures websites AE , Hastings, Nevlock, MI, and found an answer to the question of the spring ring behind: ..." It is their to apply additional radial pressure to the piston ring. This increases the unit pressure applied at the cylinder wall. " So there you go.!

The purpose of the "wiggly ring" is to keep the lower ring central, taking up the free space (regardless of how much space you perceive there to be!) and keeps the ring central and equi-distant all around. Just because the original rings don't have them is no basis to leave them out. You may find that the original ring is a little wider in its cross section thereby not needing them, whereas the newer ring may be that little bit smaller to enable the 'wiggly ring to sit behind it!! Manufacturers don't include them for fun or as an 'optional extra' after all their R&D. When I did my engine , i put them in as supplied..... If l had left them out and for whatever reason I wasn't happy with the performance ....I wouldn't want to strip it ALL down again just to put them in!!

Welcome G Digger, nice to have you on board. ive got the slightly smaller DT175MX but not that dissimilar. Whats your general location? (don't give your address out) but you never know someone might live nearby and can offer more than advice.

Had to go to Google translate for that one Drewps! it detected Italian...... Not sure it makes sense though?..... Burn Christmas??

Merry Christmas folks. Have a good one and a prosperous 2020

I've had a look at the facebook sites, Can't say I'm over impressed by them, posts tend to be 'look where I've been' photos and no obvious threads to follow about bike maintenance etc. I'll stick with the forum thanks even if the activity has died down.

Good Lord!! Can't believe people are still interested in this thread!! and it's had 82.5K views! Looks like Cynic has come to your assistance Bob, hope it all goes ok. You'll be pleased to know my conversion is still going strong albiet the DT is now resting on SORN having moved a few weeks ago. The plan is to change its taxation class to 'Historic' with the change of address then I can start using it occasionally. Nonetheless I rode it on and off the removals lorry! and the headlight was working fine.

hi there, could well be one of Dream Machine paint jobs. Up in Nottingham i believe. Might be worth contacting them, they'll recognise their own work. They'll also likely tell you if it came from Yamaha like that. No harm in sending them an email.Good luck.

Cynic is always spot on, you can trust his advice phil. Similar thing happened on my DT and cynic knew it was an airleak then. One of my old posts might help you..

Did someone here buy it?

Hens teeth they may be! But they do come available on ebay every now and then.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-XVS125-DRAGSTAR-2002-CARBURETTOR-CARB/392352703482?hash=item5b5a0b23fa:g:ecIAAOSwgSJdNw99

Hi there, the likeliest explanation is fuel coming from the overflow pipe. You say you've not had it long. So by that statement you probably dont know its history other than the verbal spiel the owner gave you. If a bike hasn't been used for a while, the fuel left inside the carb evaporates. This process can empty a float chamber and on the face of it, you think its a process where it all disappears. Unfortunatley whilst it does disappear it also leaves behind a hard varnish like product referred to as shelac. It can build up and over time goes dark brown. This varnish can not only block up fine passageways but also make the moving parts....stop!! The film can build up on the float chamber pivot and stop it moving freely. Often getting stuck in the down position as if the float chamber was empty. As fuel pours in the float doesn't move to close off the inlet and fuel will fill the chamber and into the overflow. This can be quite alarming!! it can appear temporary or last longer. Turning the fuel stopcock "OFF" solves the inflow of petrol and that might be enough to let the float recover. Which means it can appear intermittent fault. The bottom line however, is it all needs a clean.!

hi, I assume you've used the search option on the top right and put in the words "derestrict" ? I just did that and there was four pages of information. Meanwhile, take a few moments to introduce yourself in the New members section, just say who you are , and a bit of friendly banter and you might find some members who can help. Welcome aboard.

Hi Rick, You say you're hopeless at electrics! so don't be offended if i say have you checked the bulbs? The DT has two circuits. The battery powers the tail/brake light, side light, indicators and horn. Meanwhile The magneto/generator ONLY powers the headlight bulb. The headlight is on a DIFFERENT circuit to all the other bulbs. Tracing faults is a process of elimination. The fact you have a working brake light shows there is power from the battery. Therefore the fuse must be intact and by default the earth for that bulb must also be intact. (The brake and tail light bulb shares the same earth) The rear bulb may have a damaged tail light filament, incidentally just looking at a filament is not enough to say it's intact. Sometimes it may visually appear to be intact but may not work. It's easy to check bulbs with a piece of wire and the battery. Explaining how to do it..... well heres a video on you tube Substitute your battery for the one in the video and touch the contacts on the bottom of the bulb separately to test them. One does work (you already know this because you said the brake light works) which means if you can't get either to work you're not doing it right. Equally, if both filaments work then the fault lies in the wiring circuit. You can test ALL your bulbs first this way to see if they are the cause and replace them accordingly. The next part will be tracing the fault in the wiring if ALL the bulbs work using the above method. Hope this helps. Let us know how you get on.

I had my Honda 400/4 frame powder coated along with the swinging arm, battery shelf, and a few bits and bobs. I stripped off all the paint to save money they just dipped it prior to powder coating it. i appreciate mine was done over 30 years ago but it's still perfectly intact today. A little dull in places but all the hard to reach parts are unaffected. A friend of mine sanded and painted his frame similar time and his rust came through the paint in only a few years. He then stripped it all down again....and repainted it, not unsurprising it lasted a bit longer but the rust particles still came through. Back in 2011 i had the DT175 parts powder coated 5 parts in all:- swinging arm, chain bracket and tensioner arm, sidestand and brake pedal. £50 the lot. All still looking good and the DTs been well used in the rain. I'd go with the powder coating myself. PS It's not a sin to mention its a Honda Cynic.! why the hashtag?

Don't laugh Cynic....., I was logged on as you!!!

Hi Mike You're referring to a MONOSTRAP bag or "Mens crossbody bag". Careful... crossbody bags on ebay is mainly ladies handbags/shoulder bags!

Mines an early DT175MX with round tube swinging arm first registered in May79 but built in 1978. The number is 2K4 3XXX. That might give you an idea or at least a date to work from.

You mean this nut in the miscellaneous kickstart parts! https://yambits.co.uk/kickstart-levers-rubbers-parts-kickstart-parts-c-241_97_895_898.html

Yambits do various bits of course https://yambits.co.uk/dt125r-kickstart-lever-p-4983.html not sure if this one fits? other parts available on their site, just have a look around. https://yambits.co.uk/kickstart-levers-rubbers-parts-kickstart-levers-c-241_97_895_896.html?osCsid=gmfrhocv229l7ohl2ac18juad4

Hi Dicky This might be helpful to you. It maybe that you're already aware of the pages... https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/13/kick-start-conversion-dtre plus some useful photos near the bottom of this page https://dt125r.activeboard.com/t35899660/dt125re-kick-start-conversion/

There's a V50 breaking for parts for sale on Gumtree in Norfolk. You could buy the engine, and see if you can get it rebored to a larger size?...... just a thought.