NE0

I re-embedded them this morning, they appeared again, but now they've disappeared again.. I did the same with Chrome and the same thing happened. They appear for a few minutes, but the link fails. Must be a Dropbox related problem, I'd recommend re-uploading them into Flickr as recommended by YOC.

mmmm....Photos seemed to have gone from my posts! They were there....honest! the link I embedded was this https://uce17a2cfdf4e8e825edb6623891.previews.dropboxusercontent.com/p/thumb/ABN7d9ZsZFaOqQXwa1BIFDSUcIziY8akLAn1PAFh-Y5WMlm_esdYM2E0N7VRNn65efT-Fwu11sZuLdmhptEZ4j6R9nZCjIKCd-44UPjMFOXsaz1-yWtbjac9xLGaQhrSo02bUs6ndNm4oUMjc8HivAGfwiSPviyDSZN46GJ4aR2LuIZk1fMKHAAV88f9PrRxWPPT9NmWCTd7taxZKqkK3W3dH1DYZy1vtE9FXf4rBqdzo9WFAemHyjThmoGVC2AMWYljBJh9YuFUe92fzouxoTZ_axJEYsgpQOjmyDTla_0pvz4oC0WxvIZyBRst308kfC5RlSO36zlRQh2M8oD9MQftp57dWFPk8nn0VdsyGZ5noKmN_77o5hAaFxpwQvtkM6bAXYY0Pal0X5Ln24HO8eIQ/p.jpeg?fv_content=true&size_mode=5 whereas it seems to have been truncated and ended up as p.jpeg?fv_content=true&size_mode=5 which is the last part of the link....

Welcome Justin, nice intro, well done for taking the time and effort to write one. Nice bike you got there, I like the 3 into one exhaust, not disimilar to my Honda 400/4 with 4 its snake pipes into one. I guess being a 77 its one of the first bikes to see mag Wheels as it was probably around that time they were introduced. My 75 is wire spoked and i don't recall seeing mag wheels anytime before 77. A lot of the members (the regular ones who respond) are all UK based and I assume CO and GA are in the US? At present the forum is a quiet place compared to a few years ago when it certainly was a lot more active. Nonetheless, welcome to the forum, hope you enjoy the place.

How odd!, I can see them in mine and in your reply post Snake. Yet if i click on the actual photo of my post I get a Dropbox410 error. Not sure what a 410 is,! same as a 404 I guess I'm using Firefox if that makes any difference.? Its even more perplexing as they have now disappeared from mine too!!!....I wonder if Dropbox are offline?

Try that? You're probably wondering how i did that? I hacked the Main frame using a Trace program after I went down the rabbit hole......hang on!.....back to the Real World.....it wasn't as exciting as that!!..... I initially clicked on the dropbox link which took me to the dropbox photos then right clicking over the image I picked "Copy image link" from the menu and inserted that link into my post and the photo came up within my post. Hope that helps.

That's the most sensible answer I've seen for a long time, Excellent.. I like the way you think! Although in his case, he mentioned it's already snapped. So as Finnerz says:- just buy one with a rivet link.

That is a very nice little project for someone. Appears to be all there, easy strip down. Being small and compact would be great even for a small workshop/shed. E Reg 1987/88...based on the current 40year exemption that will be Tax and MOT free in 7 years time. Might not be something that will be ridden around much once restored but would make a excellent 'showpiece' for someone.

You might want to edit out those numbers as its ALL the details someone needs to clone your bike and drive off into the sunset.

There you go.. https://www.comparus.co.uk/products/centre-stand-yamaha-tdm-900-02-13-constands-934135.htm?k=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIi9rZz7iN8QIVlp3VCh0_2AR2EAQYGiABEgIQ7_D_BwE

Thanks Snake, all corrected. but.....you knew about the website though surely? (....Feedline for you)

Hi Jed, The website cmsnl.com has parts lists and diagrams of all bikes, when you select an item it also tells you what other bikes share the same part number, might be useful to you. Depends how desperate you are for them, I've just looked on ebay and there are 2 front wheels and 3 rear wheels available for the IR7, i appreciate they are in Germany. All around the £140 plus p&p mark. I've bought difficult to obtain parts for my DT from France and Germany in the past from ebay, never had a problem. Hope this helps.

You're not wrong. Although Alex will have to go to the Australian version of Amazon and Pro-bolt given that's where he lives.

How you getting on with the Helicoil quest Alex? Based on the assumption that its a standard metric thread then the socket size should give you an idea of the stud. the general rule for standard sockets for metric threads are as follows: m5 nut/bolt/screw = 8mm socket m6 = 10mm socket m8 = 13mm socket m10 = 17mm socket m12 = 19mm socket I've done a bit of googling and found the stud on the parts diagram for the MT-09 cush drive of the rear wheel. https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/yamaha-parts/2016-mt09-tracer-abs-motorcycles/rear-wheel (regardeless of year they all seem to share the same nuts and studs) The stud (15) is part number 90116-10048-00 and the nut (16) is part number 95602-10200-00 Putting those in Google I managed to find that the nut takes a 17mm socket therefore its likely its an M10 stud. I then stumbled across the break down of the Yamaha part numbers 90116 = are indeed studs and all self lock nuts start = 95602 the next two numbers are the M size= 10. That confirms that then! Unfortunately none of the rest of the code indicates the thread pitch! However, i did manage to find a close up photo of the stud part number : https://www.bts24.co.uk/en/transmission/chaindrive/rearsprocket/mountingbolt/screwsprocketoriginalsparepart901161004800.html?utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=facebook Although the photo could be a generic photo I found one for sale on ebay that someone was selling showing the actual packet and the stud with it and this shows that it has the same thread on both ends. The reason I mention this is studs that fit exhausts, which are also double ended, have a much coarser thread for the stud part that screws into the engine block. However, in this case the ebay photo confirms it is the same thread on both ends of the stud. Using the first chart shows M10 being available in three pitches, 1.0, 1.25 and 1.5mm, unfortunatley I couldn't find any confirmation of the pitch size for the nut or stud other than the standard metric thread for an M10 appears to be 1.0mm. The other two are finer and I don't think you can decipher which it is just by the photo, unless someone knows any different. Hope this helps you Alex. NE0

Hi Alex, The good news is all our jap bikes are metric! I've used helicoils on both my Honda and Yamaha, in my cases the studs were M6 and an M8 so i just bought the M6 and M8 ones and they fitted fine. There is a useful chart here:- https://www.thorintl.com/Drill-Sizes-HeliCoils-Metric.shtml I had to drill the worn out thread with the correct drill, and rethread the hole (all supplied in the kit) and the tool came with it to insert them, but technically its just a bit of coiled wire that goes in tight within the newly threaded hole and the stud just screws into the thread made by the coil of wire. However a threaded insert sleeve is different to a helicoil and are designed for more load bearing. These are double threaded metal sleeves These require the hole to be drilled to a bigger size and retapped as the threaded insert is made from thicker metal. If it's a cush drive, I'm wondering whether a threaded insert may be more substantial and therefore more suitable.? Either way you will need the thread pitch and diameter of the exitsing stud.

Thinking about it.... You said in your first post ..that she starts and runs fine....if you DID have a snapped off RED wire,: i.e you have the Two Source coils version, and your red wire was missing THEN it probably wouldn't run! The two source coils are responsible for maintaining the performance at low and high speed with the correct corresponding CDI. It was soon replaced with the single source coil and a different CDI more common on the later models. The CDIs are not compatible with each other. I'm not sure why two coils stacked on top of each other was used. On the one hand it seems over engineered to deal with it, and on the other hand with two coils surely there was two chances of failure?. Either way it didn't last long and obviously not a successful method, otherwise they would have kept it and continued to develop it. The simple answer is, probably someone came up with a cheaper simplified solution of the single coil which matched the performance of the two coil version. So in view of the above, I'd venture to say, the fact you have it running succesfully, the reason why the RED wire is missing is you have the later single source coil and you're looking at the wrong circuit diagram. Hope this helps, look forward to seeing the photos you mention in your first post. Well done bud. I must confess i enjoyed answering this one, got me thinking.

Hi welcome back Scott! You say it was a field bike in which case it may not have all its correct OEM parts! which might explain the discrepancy in the number of wires! I have a DT175MX 1978 with the round tube swinging arm and I may be able to help you. You see the RED wire is only found on the earlier model with two source coils. Its actually the WHITE wire which is part of the charging circuit. (NB: The outgoing Green/white wire changes colour to WHITE within the plastic connector) If you have the same two source coils stacked on top of each other as you can see in my photo, then you will have 4 wires going to the CDI as in the haynes manual page 167. If you look in the corner of this photo (yellow circle) you can see all the wires within the generator before they disappear from view within the loom wrapping. Here the wiring is least likely to be under tension and therefore more likely to still be intact even if one wire has snapped off within the loom. You can see and count them and be able to trace them back to the coils where you can see the red wire going to the upper source coil in the photo. There should be 6 wires visible here: x4 (RED, Brown,Black and White/Red) from the two stacked source coils and x2 wires from the dark red lighting/charging coil (Green/white and Yellow). Note the red wire in this layout goes to the CDI. Not directly to the battery. The red wire you see on the battery comes from the rectifier not from the CDI circuit. However, if you have the later generator with only one source coil then it will only have three wires as in the diagram page 172. Note there is no red wire to the different CDI. however there is still a red wire from the rectifier to the battery. Therefore there will be only 5 wires visible: x3 from the single source coil (Brown, Black and White/red) and 2 wires from the dark red lighting/charging coil. (Green/white and Yellow) To explain the charging circuit on the WHITE wire take a look at one of my earlier posts on converting my DT from 6v to 12v. It's a long post but I do explain in detail how the charging circuit works along with detailed pictures. Hope this helps

Excellent news bud, glad to hear you're up and running.

Contrary to popular belief plug gaps don't open up much at all, maybe a few thousandths of a millimetre yes, as the central electrode wears down, but not by a couple of millimetres. The plug gap arm gets extremely hot for sure but it needs a physical force to open the gap up, it doesn't get so white hot in normal running that it melts and moves away from the electrode. Furthermore if the widening gap was detrimental why would it run perfectly normal? I like these sort of puzzles and problems, it makes you think. Keep us informed of your progress bud.

That's interesting!.....and may have some significance. You see modern engines now use very lean fuel mixtures and subsequently have their plug gaps set much wider than they used to be. They apparently are set wider as there needs to be sufficient molecules of fuel in the gap to ignite. Smaller gaps may result in misfiring and incomplete combustion. If you say you're having to run it on choke, you're decreasing the air ratio thereby increasing the molecules of fuel. I appreciate it's a pig to keep removing/replacing the plugs but it's all part of fault tracing and the process of elimination. I'd be inclined to match the plugs to their previous conditions with the same gap and see what happens, there may have been a very valid reason why they were set so wide in the first place.

Does putting the original plugs back in resolve the misfire? if it does then there's something wrong with your new plugs if it's a single faulty plug: it's a case of putting in one new plug (with three old ones) at a time until the misfire occurs, then you've found the faulty plug. Don't stop there, just test all of them to ensure you don't have more than one. Occasionaly you can get cracks in the porceline that can cause misfires,(you'd never know if they've been dropped before you bought them) They may not show up visually on a brand new plug, they do on dirty ones as the dirt gets into the fine crack. If it's the set of plugs: hear me out first! sometimes a full set can collectively cause a misfire if the set is not fully compatible to the correct rating. I have an example where a friend changed a set of plugs on a Ford Mondeo and it transpired there were two different plugs depending on which HT leads were fitted NOT the engine size. So the length of the spark plug head were identical, but the porceline was slightly longer on one set yet they both had the same spark plug number except for a letter on the end. The shorter porceline meant that the HTplug didn't seat properly and caused the misfire on all the plugs. Therefore don't just take the length of the plug head as being correct, check the top for correct dimensions as well.

Then I think you've answered your first post question on what is the problem! You state in your first post that you "Replaced spark plug,stator, flywheel" so based on that sentence, you replaced the stator then it's probable that the stator has not been positioned correctly as it's part of the timing. Set even half a millimetre out will alter the performance. Set many millimetres out and it won't fire up or run. As you're a new member with only two posts and no introduction in the members area, my suggestion would be to have a look at You tube. There are several videos on timing two strokes for your bike which you may find helpful. The timing mark is a scribed line on one of the ribs. That should set you on the path to sorting your problem out. Good luck and keep us informed.

Hi there, The purpose of the regulator is to 'regulate' or reduce the voltage! The generator produces the AC voltage, and if you were to measure directly off the coils, on the charging circuit (with nothing else connected) you will indeed find a rising AC voltage depending on the revs... the faster the revs the higher the output. On a DT 175 MX you will see 26v at 6000revs. The REGULATOR 'clips' this voltage back down to 6 volt (on a 6v bike and down to 12v on a 12v bike) and it is this reduced voltage which charges the battery. Otherwise the battery will get fried on the unregulated output of the generator. So if you're getting 40v it strongly suggests the regulator is not doing its job. You might want to have a read of one of my popular posts on a conversion of my DT175 from 6 v to 12v. It's a long read but I do detail how all the parts work, which might help you understand it. I do note also that some XT owners have indeed used my post to convert theirs. However, i must point out my usual disclaimer: this is what I did with my DT175MX not any other bike. Moreover, I'd also like to add that 10 years later...my 12v conversion is still working perfectly fine. hope this helps.

Hi Ditchkid, Excellent welcome there and first post. Well done. Always liked choppers, so nice to see one. Hope you'll like it here, not as busy as it used to be but still a great website to visit. Great bunch of guys to chat to. Once again, great intro.

HI,Presumably it runs then if you say the speedo doesn't register whilst riding. i did a google search( although I expect you have done too) and came up with this... https://www.motorcycle-manual.com/yamaha-fault-codes/ scroll down past all the green text to see the error codes and explanation although to be fair even this website https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/er-1-and-er-2-error-codes.17765/ and this.. https://www.r3-forums.com/threads/error-code-er_1-video-of-issue.143570/ they all have one fact in common.....they don't run!!! therefore not sure if this is of any help. having said that some of the suggestions within the posts may be worth checking.

Shame you don't know anyone who's going to America for a Holiday! bring it back in a suitcase.