NE0

Ahhh yes I see the pin now!!! didn't spot it!! makes sense, that its the first post AFTER the pinned posts....As an alternative possible solution? maybe the pinned posts could have a subtle coloured background panel as a visible indicator. something like that? ...just a suggestion.

Well, as some of you may have noticed, there have been one or two slight, minor, hardly noticeable changes to the Forums... Nope hadn't noticed any changes!🤣🤣 Here's one for you Alex, having just posted , if you go to the Bar, and sort into Recently Updated, then this topic should be at the top of the page...but it's not! 😆 ..and its not just restricted to the bar.... I've replied to the topic from Dutch and again its not sorting with the most recent post at the Top.

Thought that was going to be a happy ending!! 🤣

Where as.....I'm older than I look!!😂

Because I looked on ebay at the Lithuania one, the seller offered it to me for £40. I thought it looked in reasonable condition for the price. Presumably George must be busy as he hasn't been back to view this topic, hopefully he won't miss out.

Hi there, firstly welcome in George. Secondly not much to go on... which country are you in? The site is Worldwide. The owner/publisher of this website is in Australia. Members are in the US, UK and everywhere else! Which year FzX750 have you got? I see they are listed on CMSNL as 1987 to 1993. and on ebay.com sellers list them as 1986-1987. You're looking for bike parts that are over 30 years old, are you looking at OEM parts or parts that will fit ? If you live in the UK then I found two abroad..... I see there is one in france...£150 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276845779353?_skw=fzx750+headlamp&itmmeta=01JKR5JM9AKFTJ4PCSG3335X7N&hash=item40754b5999:g:45UAAeSwC4NnpLRm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKk%2FSU3oRjaca0qaMjgpHhgXG%2FDGCYwDwnPZF6QLV5FxbPmREunxQXDeykUM91nsEcc7rjjZf%2FqAWiNEiFFwVL4XFGi23xd1EtPw9tp2gQMSzxe%2BIFEVyawcllwl8pDZ1s6DEEzzcmbTJyk7euc2gDbDzPK2nZkREaP%2BdhN4RPn1e%2Fafzlchpkrv52cezKDff3RiEOogJa%2BT1SAmLBTsx6h2LI4pEoqga6yMiZdBnU98W3zaxWjfn4vrNE9sokHBZik%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_DEyoWeZQ and another in Lithuania for under £50 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304754105332?_skw=fzx750+headlamp&itmmeta=01JKR5JM9DK7FKD5ANVSPREBGX&hash=item46f4c29bf4:g:c48AAOSwpotivgsZ&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkSAJzo5n5taTf7qnX1ydWk3oQQnhKxvE4E30QzoFIy1Be9uTKAcSkMreiy9aYnxpLTWfd3ziJaJsS3GQVdd%2B0g6Uw%2BGeIhOpufouGx7K5dRGdXWe%2BJMeAL2T0ePgXDQc0qVXogyB7rzAq406Ej9tBoBjKRlU%2F6BQWvgQc%2BpwMfGlzW3lT2HFymLu0iHmjhiBmm5n2bTM9aFsHRS2pgFTjtjgsky0s0U%2B6Vao5DsWWXdscZpTnTyamzW9ubtUH%2BWgk%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_rEyoWeZQ But if you live in the US, then yes the postage will be much higher. Hope that helps.

Rubber parts are often the most expensive parts of a bike thats for sure!! I see Fowlers have them on ebay! as you say not cheap £53 each!! but they do list them, heres number 2, the others are listed also. i guess you've probably seen them. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362541278424?fits=UKM_Make%3AYamaha&_skw=yamaha+fj1200+air&epid=23026296538&itmmeta=01JKNBCV502QQ7R7N5H5VQQ5QG&hash=item546924e4d8:g:NuYAAOSwaZdmAunf&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKl3Z%2BXqmaqMUuOecYnyH3yb2U7p421Z4QDd7Qsn%2BoKPW2MIik4O6ekDqbd%2BjkKJYGCJxc0ulj9M7BwWufGD7txEYpLOUB5S3msnSYktZlZ55PKkz9LzFJWA1VDFwpJWP60ns0uQViKNFuCGKwZa3QwAENwgiLwIUzjiHU4R%2FelXKQkZEJrYXo9wL5GQZ05oeVBpPUQ3OXMiHTG%2F6nAZ8Wn4upsKfbog5vVsUY8PNbHawNOGw1E6NB0gUkQZESKfBfk%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-ays6udZQ

yeah its odd Dutch but...'oil' air filters are, instead of paper elements to trap the dirt particles, oil is used over a wire mesh like steel wool to trap the dirt particles. The proper name, is Wet air filters and Dry air filters. Replaceable Paper elements were first introduced in the 60's/70's for cars and it wasn't uncommon to have the early model versions of the car with Wet air filters and the later production ones being Dry filters, now of course they are all dry. With paper filters you replace the paper element, and with oil filters, you wash out the wire wool part and replenish the oil. Both require maintenance to remain effective at trapping the dirt. ...and oil tends to get outside of the filter and the once clean looking chrome/steel, ends up being black and dirty and require cleaning !!....but at least they won't rust!! I notice on your two ebay links, the first one has a black sock to cover them up and hide them!! whereas the second link shows nice steel wire/mesh without oil, that will look black after they start doing their job and only look nice and shiney on the first day!!🤣

I know about standard bulbs on bikes but not LED's, so go with Snakes posts for advice, however, i did a search on the forum using the search feature at the top and found quite a bit, but this post may be of some help, especially as snake also mentioned the bulb on the dashboard. see the last entry in this post.

That is good news Digger. Warped new plates who would have thought it?! Glad you're back on the road. Happy new Year to you, Safe riding. 👍

I had a quick google too Snake....it's in Scotland. Up in Aberdeenshire. Welcome in Crawford, from your intro I guess you must be in your early 60's. Which would be in keeping with the 250cc limit on a provisional. My first bike after I passed was a 175 and my friends had the RD250s, most of them were blue for some reason. Did they do any other colour? 🤷‍♂️. Nice to have you on board. Happy new Year to you, or should I say Bliadhna Mhath Ùr? ............Yup, Google is indeed our friend!😂 lets give you a reward for your post, for a bit of fun there is the ability to earn a gold , silver and bronze for your posts amd your name appears on the leaderboard on the main Forum page on the right, your name should be there as i gave you a 'like' for your first post! its almost exciting isn't it!

...and just thinking, whilst we don't want to lose you, have you thought of joining the FJClub and asking them for advice? someone else may have had a similar fault. https://www.fjownersclub.co.uk/

Found you a service guide for your bike, looks like the ECU does give you fault code lights!! it states:- In this case, the memorized fault codes can be identified by putting the ECU into the diagnosis mode and using a circuit tester or the warning light page 13 onwards. I think reading through it, the ECU does the ABS and Ignition, either way worth a read or showing to your mechanic. We're not allowed to link to content elsewhere, so once you've had a look I'll re-edit my post and remove the link. Link removed.

..and the same to you Airhead, happy new year to you too. Shame the forums a lot quieter these days, i miss the banter that you all did. Weeks go by without any posts now.

Happy new year to you Dutch, sorry to hear that those coils I sourced didn't fit your bike and you ended up paying out for an OEM set, which still didn't cure your problem. I assume then that a 92 bike will be some sort of electronic ignition, bearing in mind my 78 DT does, albiet an early form. What's the carburation on it? is it carbs or fuel injectors? If this was a car ,which back then were mostly fuel injected, and the coil pack has been eliminated then the culprit would likely be the ECU. If it has an ECU then the fault codes are a series of flashes on the dashboard of cars from that era. You read them by putting in the key and counting the flash codes, which you then look up to find the corresponding fault code. I'm not saying for one minute that this will apply to your bike, just that codes were around in the early 90's on many vehicles, and were the predecessors to the ODB2 that you find on modern vehicles. Do any bulbs happen to flash/or LCD segments blink when you put the key in by chance?

Giving someone a Thanks gives one point! and putting up a post gives you 5 points. Merry christmas 🎅

Yes it's a bit of mystery, but you certainly get points for posting something! not sure how many. we'll see after this post as it was 4 points before I become a regular😆. and after posting this I got an early Christmas present as I became a Community Regular!! So you get at least 4 points for a post!🎅 ..but I'm now 649 points before I become a Rising Star! That potentially could be a lot of posts!😆

Merry Christmas 🤶 and a Happy New Year🎄 folks, only seems like a year ago since the last one!! Not many posts in recent months, so I thought I'd put one up, see how many of you still out there. Have a good one. NE0🎅 Only 4 more points and I become a Community Regular!!

interesting video here, especially about suspension and preload. might be worth a look. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzXE32thS1g

A warm welcome Hirsty, nice trike that.👍

Did you get it off? Was it completely different to the above? or was my post helpful?

Interesting Digger, I don't know the correct length, but I do know it's probably best not to mix and match different springs. ..........Having said that, had I been doing the clutch back in the 70's/80's I wouldn't have cared about the length or even mix and matching them!!, as long as they weren't broken! and I would have ridden the bike regardless......and I suspect everything would have been fine.😆 Today, I might be a bit more cautious like yourself and try and get the right lengths. although as long as they are all the same, will 1.7mm (the difference between the smallest and largest) make a big difference? I don't sound much help!!😂.....I'll shut up!🤪

Okay, here's how it works, how a single bolt can remove the rotor. Its different to the DT magneto which has a full length tapered shaft. The XS 250 has a part threaded section within the rotor body. N.B. the normal short bolt with its washer, holds it all in place.

So basically it seems you take out this retaining bolt and replace it with a longer bolt which pops off the Rotor.

I'm not giving up!!....been on Google... looked at the XS400 forum which states it's for the XS250 and XS400 bikes... various searches there suggest the puller is just a bolt The rotor puller Yamaha part number is 90890-01080. It's an M16x1.5 bolt. member Drewpy (is he the same?) says don't use a '3 jaw" puller as you'll f*** up the rotor. another member describes the procedure... Remove the retention bolt that you still have in the photo from the center of the rotor, screw the bigger bolt into the rotor while holding the rotor stationary (manual recommends a special wrench), and rotate the rotor puller/bolt into the rotor. It'll pop off. Cmsnl sell one..https://www.cmsnl.com/products/pullerrotor_9089001080/ hope thats of some help?