NE0

I know about standard bulbs on bikes but not LED's, so go with Snakes posts for advice, however, i did a search on the forum using the search feature at the top and found quite a bit, but this post may be of some help, especially as snake also mentioned the bulb on the dashboard. see the last entry in this post.

That is good news Digger. Warped new plates who would have thought it?! Glad you're back on the road. Happy new Year to you, Safe riding.

I had a quick google too Snake....it's in Scotland. Up in Aberdeenshire. Welcome in Crawford, from your intro I guess you must be in your early 60's. Which would be in keeping with the 250cc limit on a provisional. My first bike after I passed was a 175 and my friends had the RD250s, most of them were blue for some reason. Did they do any other colour? . Nice to have you on board. Happy new Year to you, or should I say Bliadhna Mhath Ùr? ............Yup, Google is indeed our friend! lets give you a reward for your post, for a bit of fun there is the ability to earn a gold , silver and bronze for your posts amd your name appears on the leaderboard on the main Forum page on the right, your name should be there as i gave you a 'like' for your first post! its almost exciting isn't it!

...and just thinking, whilst we don't want to lose you, have you thought of joining the FJClub and asking them for advice? someone else may have had a similar fault. https://www.fjownersclub.co.uk/

Found you a service guide for your bike, looks like the ECU does give you fault code lights!! it states:- In this case, the memorized fault codes can be identified by putting the ECU into the diagnosis mode and using a circuit tester or the warning light page 13 onwards. I think reading through it, the ECU does the ABS and Ignition, either way worth a read or showing to your mechanic. We're not allowed to link to content elsewhere, so once you've had a look I'll re-edit my post and remove the link. https://www.fjclub.dk/katalog/1991-FJ1200-Service-Guide.pdf

..and the same to you Airhead, happy new year to you too. Shame the forums a lot quieter these days, i miss the banter that you all did. Weeks go by without any posts now.

Happy new year to you Dutch, sorry to hear that those coils I sourced didn't fit your bike and you ended up paying out for an OEM set, which still didn't cure your problem. I assume then that a 92 bike will be some sort of electronic ignition, bearing in mind my 78 DT does, albiet an early form. What's the carburation on it? is it carbs or fuel injectors? If this was a car ,which back then were mostly fuel injected, and the coil pack has been eliminated then the culprit would likely be the ECU. If it has an ECU then the fault codes are a series of flashes on the dashboard of cars from that era. You read them by putting in the key and counting the flash codes, which you then look up to find the corresponding fault code. I'm not saying for one minute that this will apply to your bike, just that codes were around in the early 90's on many vehicles, and were the predecessors to the ODB2 that you find on modern vehicles. Do any bulbs happen to flash/or LCD segments blink when you put the key in by chance?

Giving someone a Thanks gives one point! and putting up a post gives you 5 points. Merry christmas

Yes it's a bit of mystery, but you certainly get points for posting something! not sure how many. we'll see after this post as it was 4 points before I become a regular. and after posting this I got an early Christmas present as I became a Community Regular!! So you get at least 4 points for a post! ..but I'm now 649 points before I become a Rising Star! That potentially could be a lot of posts!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year folks, only seems like a year ago since the last one!! Not many posts in recent months, so I thought I'd put one up, see how many of you still out there. Have a good one. NE0 Only 4 more points and I become a Community Regular!!

interesting video here, especially about suspension and preload. might be worth a look. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzXE32thS1g

A warm welcome Hirsty, nice trike that.

Did you get it off? Was it completely different to the above? or was my post helpful?

Interesting Digger, I don't know the correct length, but I do know it's probably best not to mix and match different springs. ..........Having said that, had I been doing the clutch back in the 70's/80's I wouldn't have cared about the length or even mix and matching them!!, as long as they weren't broken! and I would have ridden the bike regardless......and I suspect everything would have been fine. Today, I might be a bit more cautious like yourself and try and get the right lengths. although as long as they are all the same, will 1.7mm (the difference between the smallest and largest) make a big difference? I don't sound much help!!.....I'll shut up!

Okay, here's how it works, how a single bolt can remove the rotor. Its different to the DT magneto which has a full length tapered shaft. The XS 250 has a part threaded section within the rotor body. N.B. the normal short bolt with its washer, holds it all in place.

So basically it seems you take out this retaining bolt and replace it with a longer bolt which pops off the Rotor.

I'm not giving up!!....been on Google... looked at the XS400 forum which states it's for the XS250 and XS400 bikes... various searches there suggest the puller is just a bolt The rotor puller Yamaha part number is 90890-01080. It's an M16x1.5 bolt. member Drewpy (is he the same?) says don't use a '3 jaw" puller as you'll f*** up the rotor. another member describes the procedure... Remove the retention bolt that you still have in the photo from the center of the rotor, screw the bigger bolt into the rotor while holding the rotor stationary (manual recommends a special wrench), and rotate the rotor puller/bolt into the rotor. It'll pop off. Cmsnl sell one..https://www.cmsnl.com/products/pullerrotor_9089001080/ hope thats of some help?

looks like we might be getting somewhere....this puller on ebay, specifies for a XS250, although maybe that's several tools in the kit? Hope that's of some help mate. and here's an XS250 Rotor on ebay, ? which suggests a deep internal thread?

In a different post the original poster has stated he can't use this method of puller as the rotor does not have an internal thread. So I did a bit of googling, and came up with this, now i know its not for the XS250 but i wonder if the principle is likely to be the same as this tool is for a Rotor without the internal thread....just a thought. Not quite sure how it works though as this screws onto the shaft but its not threaded on the outside either , unlike my DT one first suggested.

....and the crowd roared...Dutch takes the Gold...

He may well be right Dutch. I had something similar years ago on my 400/4, that has twin coils under the tank directly above the engine. One of them was playing up especially in hot weather. Heat from the engine and warm air from the environment was too much for it and it would often play up in the summer months. A replacement solved the problem. mind you it did take a long time to trace the cause!! Not expensive.. https://www.squaremotorcycleparts.co.uk/products/ignition-coil-yamaha-fj1200-fj-1200-1988-1994 worth doing for that price, and yours will be 32 years old already if original!!

That's good to know Dutch, glad you got it resolved. Plus many thanks for getting back with an update, far too many posts remain 'open' with never an update. For the effort you'll find your name on the leaderboard with a thanks from me, and being the Olympics you might even get a gold medal post! its early days, but you've got a silver medal now...another 'thanks' from someone else will knock me off the Gold!!

I guess he's referring to the magneto stator / rotor? if it is, then the internal thread, highlighted in red takes a magneto puller, the shaft is tapered with a woodruff key to hold the rotor in place. one of these... you put a spanner on the flats to screw it in to the rotor and a socket on the end and screw it in, which then pulls it off the taper. the indent in the shaft end takes the pointed end of the device.

Unfortunatley I can’t teach you how to read a circuit diagram in a forum, its far easier to teach this from a video or in person. Equally unfortunatley you can’t just guess where wires go either, it may well be a rectifier wire, but you need to identify the location of the rectifier first and look for the same wire there, presumably disconnected! To be 100 per cent sure you need some form of meter /Ohm meter to confirm the wire is indeed the same wire at both ends. Regretfully waiting for a V75 owner to chip in with a bit of advice is in my opinion will be a long wait, the forum is relatively quiet these days with few members posting let alone replying, there’s a few regulars like Snakebite and Drewpy and myself but If there were any V75 owners they haven’t replied to any of your previous posts either!! I think your best bet is going to be asking over on the facebook site , at least you’re going to be conversing with someone who actually has one! They should be able to help. Obviously we don’t want to see you go, but if you can let us know how you got on it would be of some help to others with a similar problem.

I see, if you have two red wires, generally the thicker one will be to the battery as it carries more current. Does that help? (unless of course they are both the same thickness.) can you take a photo and post it here?