NE0

...and just thinking, whilst we don't want to lose you, have you thought of joining the FJClub and asking them for advice? someone else may have had a similar fault. https://www.fjownersclub.co.uk/

Found you a service guide for your bike, looks like the ECU does give you fault code lights!! it states:- In this case, the memorized fault codes can be identified by putting the ECU into the diagnosis mode and using a circuit tester or the warning light page 13 onwards. I think reading through it, the ECU does the ABS and Ignition, either way worth a read or showing to your mechanic. We're not allowed to link to content elsewhere, so once you've had a look I'll re-edit my post and remove the link. https://www.fjclub.dk/katalog/1991-FJ1200-Service-Guide.pdf

..and the same to you Airhead, happy new year to you too. Shame the forums a lot quieter these days, i miss the banter that you all did. Weeks go by without any posts now.

Happy new year to you Dutch, sorry to hear that those coils I sourced didn't fit your bike and you ended up paying out for an OEM set, which still didn't cure your problem. I assume then that a 92 bike will be some sort of electronic ignition, bearing in mind my 78 DT does, albiet an early form. What's the carburation on it? is it carbs or fuel injectors? If this was a car ,which back then were mostly fuel injected, and the coil pack has been eliminated then the culprit would likely be the ECU. If it has an ECU then the fault codes are a series of flashes on the dashboard of cars from that era. You read them by putting in the key and counting the flash codes, which you then look up to find the corresponding fault code. I'm not saying for one minute that this will apply to your bike, just that codes were around in the early 90's on many vehicles, and were the predecessors to the ODB2 that you find on modern vehicles. Do any bulbs happen to flash/or LCD segments blink when you put the key in by chance?

Giving someone a Thanks gives one point! and putting up a post gives you 5 points. Merry christmas

Yes it's a bit of mystery, but you certainly get points for posting something! not sure how many. we'll see after this post as it was 4 points before I become a regular. and after posting this I got an early Christmas present as I became a Community Regular!! So you get at least 4 points for a post! ..but I'm now 649 points before I become a Rising Star! That potentially could be a lot of posts!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year folks, only seems like a year ago since the last one!! Not many posts in recent months, so I thought I'd put one up, see how many of you still out there. Have a good one. NE0 Only 4 more points and I become a Community Regular!!

interesting video here, especially about suspension and preload. might be worth a look. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzXE32thS1g

A warm welcome Hirsty, nice trike that.

Did you get it off? Was it completely different to the above? or was my post helpful?

Interesting Digger, I don't know the correct length, but I do know it's probably best not to mix and match different springs. ..........Having said that, had I been doing the clutch back in the 70's/80's I wouldn't have cared about the length or even mix and matching them!!, as long as they weren't broken! and I would have ridden the bike regardless......and I suspect everything would have been fine. Today, I might be a bit more cautious like yourself and try and get the right lengths. although as long as they are all the same, will 1.7mm (the difference between the smallest and largest) make a big difference? I don't sound much help!!.....I'll shut up!

Okay, here's how it works, how a single bolt can remove the rotor. Its different to the DT magneto which has a full length tapered shaft. The XS 250 has a part threaded section within the rotor body. N.B. the normal short bolt with its washer, holds it all in place.

So basically it seems you take out this retaining bolt and replace it with a longer bolt which pops off the Rotor.

I'm not giving up!!....been on Google... looked at the XS400 forum which states it's for the XS250 and XS400 bikes... various searches there suggest the puller is just a bolt The rotor puller Yamaha part number is 90890-01080. It's an M16x1.5 bolt. member Drewpy (is he the same?) says don't use a '3 jaw" puller as you'll f*** up the rotor. another member describes the procedure... Remove the retention bolt that you still have in the photo from the center of the rotor, screw the bigger bolt into the rotor while holding the rotor stationary (manual recommends a special wrench), and rotate the rotor puller/bolt into the rotor. It'll pop off. Cmsnl sell one..https://www.cmsnl.com/products/pullerrotor_9089001080/ hope thats of some help?

looks like we might be getting somewhere....this puller on ebay, specifies for a XS250, although maybe that's several tools in the kit? Hope that's of some help mate. and here's an XS250 Rotor on ebay, ? which suggests a deep internal thread?