Thunderchild

Just a long overdue update to maybe help anyone else. I bought a compression tester and was only getting 8 bars on both cylinders (service manual said 12, 11 minimum). I went back over everything that I had previously looked at and it turned out to be the fuel pump. Although it was pumping out fine when I originally tested it, there was no resistance when you sucked on the pipe and I was getting vapours coming through. I think it was maybe dumping too fuel through. Anyway, I fitted a new pump (£65), and she was back to normal again. Problem solved, bike was fixed and I learnt a sh!t load in the process. Thanks to everyone that helped, and I hope this rather long thread helps someone else. Cheers, Thunder

I see you can't edit the title That should have read 'Unusual set of leathers'

Looking for something a bit different instead of the usual set of leathers? Look no more, have a look at these! http://udreplicas.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=11

If you're ever in Japan, think twice before trying to out run a police bike! Unbelievable skills these guys have. http://bestmotorcycleracing.com/police-on-superbike/

It hadn't moved on day 2, still were it was placed down. And a suppose you think the lunar landings were faked too.

I'll give it all a go tomorrow and see what's happening. If it does turn out to be the CDI, I'll use DE51GNZ guide and see if I can repair it before paying out for a new one. Electronics I can do, engines I'm still learning about. Thanks for all the help so far, it has been appreciated and I've learnt sh*t loads so far I'll keep you posted.

The small hose in the middle of the photo is the one that comes from the carb and connects to the top of the air filter assembly. The connector pipe from the silencer is not shown in this pic but is an almost 90 degree bend that connects into the large hole of the assembly. This is the back of the assembly with the air filter removed. The large hole takes the connection from the silencer. The small nipple above the large hole takes the tube from the carb seen in the other pic above. The front of the assembly. The removed air filter. Silencer connection in the middle which sticks through the large hole on the back of the assembly.

Correct on both. TPS resistance (disconnected) was 5.3 kOhms (5300 Ohms) on blue/black wires (multimeter set to 20k ohms). TPS operating voltage (running) was 5,3 volts. (using two paper clips poked into rear of connector and multimeter set to 20 DCV). TPS idling voltage (running) was (I think), 0.62 volts to (unknown ?). Didn't have time to open throttle and check as it started raining heavy. Have I done it wrong?

She will happily sit at idle with no problems, but will cut out when you engage gear. I can get up to 2nd (15/20mph), before she bogs. Further throttle doesn't do anything. If I then start to slow or tap down to 1st, she will cut out completely. She then has to be started several times before she catches (still in 1st gear with clutch pulled in). I didn't pull out the emulsion tube but did blow carb cleaner through the air ports. The holes on the tube were not visibly blocked on inspection. Agreed, but I'm running out of options atm. I'll see if I can borrow one. She will rev in neutral, but seems to bog at about quarter throttle (sometimes), but other times fine. If she does bog in neutral whilst revving, she will generally then cut out. 5.30 Not checked this but will go have a look. I'm going to have a look at the CDI whilst I'm there.

I've just had another look at her. I tested both plugs and they both bridge a good 10mm with a blue/white spark. I then left her running for a while and did the 'wet rag' test on both pipes up at the cylinder head. They both passed with a clear 'hiss', so I'm guessing that's another tick off the list.

I came across this guy recently and he has an 'online repair course', but if you scroll down, he has some excellent 'how to' guides. http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm

I found this thread by DE51GNZ which I will use to have a look at mine. Second set, both have carbon deposits. I was looking at the electrics earlier in the service manual to see if there was anything else to check. Yep, single carb, cleaned and checked twice now, so can probably rule that out. I was looking at my pic when I wrote that as a point of reference for you. Top pipe meant back cylinder, lower pipe was the front cylinder. I felt both up near the cylinder for each and behind the decorative/protective covers.

I grew up with bikes (Dad had Norton's and BSA's), and my mum was a 'biker chick' in her hay day. Subsequently, I wasn't allowed to have one when I was younger I've only been riding for two years, not really been far as yet, but I did do a charity bike ride out to the coast and back shortly after getting her. I think that was the furthest I've been in a day so far. I'm currently looking at sports tourers. I've been out to look at a few already and have settled (at the moment), on a Suzuki GSX 750 F. I should be getting her shortly, before Xmas anyway. We are planning to go around the Highlands next year and then across to Norway and Sweden. Our 'bike adventures' are only just beginning. Can't wait

Yeah, I did actually reach around the covers to get a proper feel. The top pipe nearly burnt my hand off whilst the front, lower pipe was warm but as I said, I could hold. So what next? Could this now be a CDI unit issue?

Just checked, they are both getting hot, BUT, the back cylinder pipe you can barely touch at the top, whereas the front cylinder pipe you can grab hold of (despite being hot). Does that mean the front cylinder is not firing properly?