clank444

Do you know where I could buy one?

Bought it off ebay with the headlight bucket.

Hi fellows, when installing the electrics on my bike I came across the headlight and found it not to work. The filament is broken and I need a new headlight. Where can I find a replacement light and my bikes a 78 DT125 enduro. thank you

I would definitely check the carb settings but if the bike only backfires when you kickstart it then it sounds like your ignition timing is too retarded(late in the piston rotation).

It has been a few days since I mentioned the bikes progress. I found where that washer that flew out of my engine went, its the washer that goes between the tachometer gear and the case cover. I spent the last few days fixing up a set of blinkers for the bike and it amazes me how weather proof these blinkers are with their many rubber grommets and gaskets.

I put the kicker back in correctly and I can only say that it was quit the difficult task and needs to be avoided in all cases. I reattached the oil pump with the case cover still off and while screwing it into I had a mysterious washer fall and hit the floor. All work stopped at once to find the home of this washer and I am stumped since it has no oil on it yet I believe it fell out of the crank case cover. I would have posted the picture I have of it yet putting a image in a post seems to be quite the odd thing to do.

How does the spring need to be oriented in the case?

Well I found out I messed up the kickstarter gear when the case cover was off. the oil is draining currently to look into whats wrong, is there anything important or special about how the kick starter gear goes into the case? The gear that goes into the oil pump is being problematic, does it slide into the pump or do I need to rotate it into position somehow?

Thanks for the info, I removed the oil pump because I needed to get to one of the case screws behind it and the attack driver I was using couldn't seat properly with the pump in the way so I had to remove it.

Alright I will be sure to bleed the oil pump, speaking of the oil pump, is the hose that goes from the pump to the carb special? I mean is it a odd diameter? Does it resist oil better than regular hose? or will regular hose work just fine as a replacement if I happen to tear mine when removing the oil pump?

I just worry about there being too much oil in the case and that it may foam like in a car engine when you overfill the oil. My bike has had the same oil in it for about 15 years so its about time for a change anyway. Hopefully I can get the oil pump on today and fill it with 2 stroke oil to take it for a ride today. we will see. Now when I pull in the clutch lever all the way the clutch works but you can still feel the engine and gear plates move on each other since its not as smooth to roll around with the clutch lever pulled in as the bike is to roll around in neutral. could this be due to the 32 year old clutch cable being worn out and stretched? When I adjust all the free play out of the cable it makes no difference in the feel of the bike rolling.

I am going to do an oil change since when i drained the oil to work on the clutch the engine was cold and left plenty contaminants left in the crank case.

I was planning on riding the bike briefly and then doing a full oil change, I just asked because I wanted to know if there is going to be an immediate negative affect.

Well my clutch now works but has not been rode tested. The matter was easy to see after a visual inspection, I had the push rod much too far forward which was reducing pressure plate pressure. I screwed the rod back and re-adjusted the clutch and now it works the best it ever has. When I put the oil in I am 90 percent sure its over filled, what negative affects should I expect from this? Thanks again for your help.

Thanks Drewpy.

its in riding shape minus all the lights and the oil pump being removed. This clutch buisness is frustrating and I will probly have to go back and repeat it step by step to ensure I didnt miss anything. Thanks for your help in the matter though its very nice to be able to discuss these issues.

I had my disks soak in yamalube for two days before putting them in, the inner clutch basket has no marks what so ever and the outer basket has five marks on it (all the way around) that can only be seen in the right light and cant be seen looking from the sides of the basket inward. there is definitly no signs of severe gouging or need to replace the clutch baskets by what the manual says in the engine rebuild and inspection chapters.

My name is Mike as I hope you in particular know barkwindjammer. where would you suggest I post my technical questions?

I do mean the plain and friction plates, I checked the spring length and they meet the manuals required 34mm in length. I adjusted the cable and made the clutch arm on the flywheel side of the engine to match the mark where it needs to be. which push rod are you mentioning? I know there should be two one connected to the pressure plate (which I adjusted as my manual said) and one farther into the crank case.

I replaced the disks since before the clutch didnt work and my break down of the clutch found a disk frozen to two plates. I adjusted the clutch step by step per the 1978 Yamaha DT125/175E manual. the clutch lever works the clutch in and out just fine but the clutch doesnt seem to press the plates and disks together when the clutch lever is at rest. I apologise for the poor introduction, I said hi in the Noob section this morning. I am an 18 year old high school student at Bothell high school in Washington U.S. I am restoring the bike to "street-able" condition for my senior project and learning a lot in the process. I have never been to a forum so high class as to require an introduction.

I'M just saying hi as is proper. I have a 78 DT125 and i could really use some help with my clutch over in the bar section. Thanks

Hey, I replaced the clutch disks on my 1978 DT125E today and now the clutch doesnt seem to work at all. I can put the bike in any gear when not running with the clutch in but when I release the clutch lever I can still roll the bike around as if the clutch is constantly engaged. I have yet to add oil to the crank case just in case the cover has to come off again. what could be wrong with my bike? I have been restoring this bike to working condition for months as my high school senior project and this is just puzzling, at first the clutch was constantly engaged and now its just the opposite What The Hell! Any help would be fantastic, names Mike by the way.