tez73

i thought it was a wiring fault cos every time i moved the wire near the headlight loom the electrics came on but wouldnt stay on, so i was looking for split wires i just didnt feel a relay would make any difference! shows what a twat i am!!!

hi for anyone with a similar problem i fitted a starter relay i brought from wemoto and it solved the problem hooray!!!

I have an sr 125 and its a lot more reliable than a 2 stroke although the amount of posts i put on here make me look engines are indistructable although not nippy at all at 60mph and takes the length of a quentin tarantino film to get there, its simple to ride although i prefer being crouched over a tank, fuel consumptions excellent. its ok but i wont keep it for years. terry

hi there everyone, my sr 125 has developed a strange problem. I had trouble starting it for about a week as no electrics came on but if i moved the wires behind the headlight the neutral light came on and i could start it but electrics would not stay on. i replaced both headlight bulbs, cleaned relay and took apart and cleaned all headlight wiring and now ignition light stays on and it stays on but when i press brake levers and indicators all lights go out!!! I do shift work as well so most of my driving is at night bu**er! any help gratefully recieved, terry.

cheers for that i had no joy with removing the nuts on the sprocket so i took it to my local tyre shop and they said all 4 bolts were threaded as previous owner put them on to tight, took them an hour to get them off and i need 4 new studs, so i cant use that wheel until they are replaced. fortunatly i had a spare rear wheel so soaked it in lube and took me half an hour to replace them. the plastic oval bits are to grip with a spanner while the nut is removed but they are really flimsy so it is difficult not to break them! seems silly to put them on something where you need a strong fixing. thanks for that link i will still put a picture on later just sounds more difficult than a moon landing when you read the help files!! cheers again for all the help posted, terry

hi mate sorry to sound like a tit but have changed my settings to attach a photo but wheres the attach photo button? been looking for an hour on help files? !

how do u add pic have looked in help files but it says press choose file button but its not there on my reply page?

the black plastic parts dont come off so bolts must be threaded am going to try putting a flat screwdriver behind nuts and spanner them off now!

brilliant mate thanks for replies, sounds possible to remove the nuts this way will try it in the morning and let you know, terry.

hi mate, they are covering the bolt thread behind the sprocket the other side to the bolt heads holding sprockets on and are about 10mm wide?

hi mate, no i dont think so, there are black oval plastic parts on the back of the sprocket that the nuts are going into, do they need to be held with a spanner? also is it best to remove nut with wheel and c clip on? will try the grips tomorrow. many thanks for reply, terry.

hi i am fitting new sprockets and chain but when i undo the 4 nuts holding the rear sprocket they are turning freely but not coming off at all, if anyone has done this before and knows what to do would be grateful? cheers, terry.

thanks for that i was looking on another post about similar problem and they suggested clutch and chain adustment which i did but neither seemed to work so i and changed the oil which i did and it worked immediatly, so if anyone has same trub change oil first!!

Hi all, I had a crash the other day when a woman knocked me over at a roundabout when she did not indicate although she insists otherwise fooking muppet!! The only damage luckily is a bent gear lever but i cant seem to get the bike into 2nd 3rd or 4th gear at all as a result, i fitted a new cluth cable a couple of months ago. Is it possible it knocked the gears in gearbox out of synch and if so what can i do about it? Any help gratefully recieved! Terry.

boom boom.

they look different mate it looks like the adjusters on the other side on these, have just found picture in another manual and at the directly at top of the spring is the adjuster and nutand it shows a spanner adjusting this so we were moving in right direction just in an arse - about- face kind of way which is me allover! but thanks for going the extra mile for me mate is a massive help when you get quick replys otherwise you can quickly disappear up youre batty. thanks to dirty dt too.

its not difficult to do put crank arm to mark on crank worse thing was getting allen bolts off dont think its been done for years as they were all rusted up. used to have a new aprilia rs but sold it after a couple of years total nightmare electrics tempremental to say the least and expensive to look after, had older nsr 125 before that which was a bit more robust!!

have taken bike apart but this is my first time adjusting tappets, on manual its hard to say is it the gap betweeen top of spring and the bottom of the adjusting nut does anyone know? did all other steps in manual up to there correctley!!

thanks again mate will try it tomorrow and let you know thanks again, terry.

thats done it mate thanks for the top tip, your a star! u were right thread was shagged dont know if i will trust putting a replacement bolt in though?

Hi i was going to check valve settings and cant remove tank as bolt is stuck. it is turning in the nut thats fixed under the bracket ok but not going any further out, any ideas? terry

hi chaps i got a second hand carb and fitted it and now it runs sweet, well about as sweet as a sr 125 will run!! the carb float valve that regulates how far float bowl goes down was broken and hanging off.and just in time to watch england vs west indies in the cricket world club. life is sweet again for at least the next 5 minutes. thanks chaps for all the posts and advice very welcome, take care.

just changed filter a couple of weeks ago, yes it goes straight full revs. thanks for the advice will try again in morning and let you know how i get on!

hi am the unlucky owner of a yamaha sr 125 that i fitted a new throttle cable too now its over revving, my pl ug was dark brown when i brought the bike, so i moved needle setting from middle to the bottom one. i have also made sure the cables not snagging on anything and its not quite as bad now but its still very high and unrideable! any ideas?