Kelum

Hi guys, My bike has become a terrible crawler as it doesnt pick up properly. So every time I want a reasonable speed I have to accelerate more so more fuel consumption. And I feel the plugs do overheat, even the porcelain white part has become brownish, front cylinder accumulates carbon deposits on the plug. I sense unburnt fuel everytime the engine running. I tried replacing plugs with two older ones (as shops are closed today) but still the problem seems to continue. Whats more when I accelerate it gradualy increases revs and tends to stay at a particular rev speed even if I release my hand from accelerator Engine stays stuck at a higher rev even when the accelerator comes to rest position Oh gush I feel like my good days are gone..please help me determine this issue..thanks in advance!

Oh instruct me on painting too

cool am glad i have you two with experience around for my future projects...my imagination always had limits as i didnt have a means to manipulate plastic or metal, fiberglass seems to be cool...this is way too cool for scientific experiments too...like tubing and structuring for a waste water treatment plant and irrigation systems (small scale)...coool..u guys just cool down...I respect what both of you know...tc guys

Thank you mate, please try doing that before january..it will help me a lot...tc mate

Ooo thank you so much guys as you see I 3d model vehicles and I have artistic skills so I thought I should start fiberglassing from little items...over the time I will master and things like this are always easier for me to follow as I have skills on creation may be from my previous lives. Thank you for your valuable ideas here, u've typed a lot here on the topic and the content is wonderfully informative. I will get into this after my Masters exams in first week January..if u have any illustrations on the steps please post them here...thanx guys!

Hi guys, Since I have seen most of the guys here converting their bikes into bobbers..I wanna know if you have ever used fiberglass parts on your bikes...I recently saw some cool japanese modified bikes exactly like harleys...they had metal plates chrome finishes and excellent paint job..I wanna convert my thing into something cool...I went through lot of web tutorials on fiberglassing...am pretty sure that there might be guys here with fiberglass experience...please share ur know-how with me. Fiberglass chemicals are hazardous as I gather...please make a writeup on all the important stuff regarding the subject..will be helpful for all..thanks in advance...

OMG! So you rounded them up, how the hell would you ever adjust them when things go wrong? Will see if its possible..

Hi guys, I should adjust tappet screws on front of front cylinder and rear of rear cylinder as there is an oil leak at both ends. Could be an issue with O-rings there. I think the fitting socket for bolts would be 22mm? I feel like the frame is blocking the adjustment as they seem to be hard for a tool to reach? Can someone tell me the O-ring sizes I should buy and the precautions I should take? Thank you!

Cranking the engine with motor didnt work, was so down, checked carb drain to see if pumps were working, took her outside (12.30am) and after many pushes..here she goes more powerfully...had a ride an misfiring seem to be ok..however still there were some sighs...I think the spark problem still there..

He he ur funny.... I noticed several things inside, in the fuel cock/pet cock also there was water at front end...and some oxide-like white stuff, probably the metal-water reaction sediment?? was covering holes and fuel pathways...there had been a spring in it too which I didnt notice and it had sprung out I didnt see..later I had to remove it again and put it in....he he I have seen such white stuff in such metals..cock was blocked hee.. Then inside carb and fuel pump too was sediments which I scraped with a pin and wiped off with a tissue..I covered carb air inlet and throttle end before cleaning outside.. The jets were located and no stuff were blocking them, I blew air in them, first they were hard to undo..I was scared they would break..but correct application of force through a flat fat screw driver undid them... Hoses were fitted and work is almost done, must fit in fuel tank and hoses to carb, and lets see...working till midnight..its 10 pm now..

Hm..I drained the tank completely and guess what there was a big lid of a bottle in it ..Someone may have dropped it in...there were lot of debris and sediments, rust in the tank..fuel inlets were somewhat blocked...disassembled petcock and fuel pump...some block were there in the petcock..gaskets kinda worn out..added gasket with some instant gasket maker...there were sediments very fine and dark in the fuel pump inlet...cleaned with some tissue...next will get into carb...oh another thing, drained the carb..again gosh there were sediments and water in the bottom of the cup of the drained. There was a pupil of a mosquito too..how come that be? Could water in the carb cause the miss in engine?

Also...do I have to drain the gas tank for carb removal? I can unplug those hoses but the fuel would leak then? I think simply removing two hoses coming to petcock from tank would drain the tank? what problems will there be after doing this? I think I have to clean all the hoses, tank vents, petcock, pump and finally carb..first I need to drain the tank for all these..please help

Thanks Gemini, I used an online German - Eng dictionary but still confusing..

Here you go Paul, please locate drain screws and all for me, am a bit scared to go before knowing stuff. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us I'm sorry for heckling you..u know the importance of knowing which is which before dealing with the unit..

What solvents do I need to have around before disassembling? for clean here mechs use petrol and then a blower, I dont have an access to blower...its not good to use other solvents than petrol I guess..

Hi guys, well after a while of trials and events...It seems the problem lies with the fuel flow to the engine.. Last Friday as I was riding in the rain suddenly a huge smoke sprang up from front cylinder area and bike stopped. I got scared to death thought it was an engine seize due to an oil runout which was impossible. There was heavy wire burning smell too. So I thought since oil level was ok it was some short circuit in ignition coils. Since I was blaming to my ignition coils I thought probably they burnt out or something. The other thing was I was around 30 kms from home. So I took her to a garage to find out a short circuit. A pin of one of the coils was touching the frame. I got it fixed and came home. The bike was felt to be powerful and the misfire was not frequent like before The missfire however exists but it seems ok...anyways I came into conclusion that the misfire is due to some block in fuel pipelines or carb, like good old Paul just suggested. Today as I was taking a 90 degree turn and a bit steepy place, bike lost its power both cylinders stopped firing, pressed start button, motor was turing but engine wouldnt start.I tried to push the bike to start it didnt work either. Checked plugs too still no starting. Then I set the fuel cock to PRI position and pressed start button and wow the engine started. Then I put fuel cock to RES and rode home. This suggests that there is a problem with fuel flow. Lot of pipelines under gas tank so I should label them I guess. I would clean the tank, filters, and simply everything. Anyone want to guide me? Of course will follow what Paul told. Is there a drainage screw/line? I heard u might alter the correct mixture ratio removing carbs...is that true? how can I stay out of fuel mixture ratio issues? What particular places do I have to look for water/fuel sediment/rust buildups? can someone guide me to all the adjustable screws? may be with images?

Thanks Paul..ur a great relief to have around, I wanna clean the fuel system anyways...plus must oil the engine..will have the manual handy...will update what the problem would turn out to be.

I guess I would need NEW GASKETS if am gonna open the left cover ha? I have a gasket tube and new gasket set anyway..but I wanna keep gasket set for later time I checked the two wires coming from pickup to the ignitor unit with multimeter set to AC while cranking the engine...the voltage remained around 5.21 and it wasnt really pulsing, may be it was happening so fast the multimeter couldnt resolve the change..

Hey Paul buddy...I checked sparks outside with two electroded 6mm apart, the spark taking place but there are periodic stops. So I concluded electrical prob is behind. Sparking wouldnt be affected by a fuel prob right? am afraid of carb dismanteling...but wanna do it.is it possible for you to make a writeup for me on the steps from petrol line removal on?..yeah I know stator wires they deal with rectifier....pulses from pickup drive TCI to make speed-based voltage signals to ignition coils right? in this missfiring case of yours did u happen to check sparks? I'm afraid of carb because I've seen people say if you change the right mixture it will be hard to reestablish it... p.s. where have you been, hope ur doing well, anyway am going to check hook up two wires to pick up coil connectors and connect them to a multimeter while cranking the engine..and must check if there are voltage drops when misfiring...after that will do the same for igniter cylinder outputs... I checked what the above red lines say..spark wires were ok, one had 12.4v while the other had 11.8v

Can someone help me understand this? Please clarify what is meant by IGN B+12...has he meant to check the line coming from ignition coil to spark plug..should it have 12 volts when ign and run switches on? Is it safe to deal with ignition coils when cranking, I mean I had the pulses running in me the other day when doing that it scared the shit outa me.. There should be pulsating very low voltage from the pickup coils. These pulses triggers the CDI (ignitor) to fire off the ignition coil and produce the spark for the plugs. The low pulsating voltage could be checked using an analog/meter type VOM setting to low. On cranking, the needle would appear to be flickering. there should be spark at the plugs when cranking; if none, check that one terminal of the ignition coil has an IGN B+12 (12volts when IGN & RUN switched on); the other terminal of the ignition coil should be pulsating from 12 to 0 when cranking; if none, check the CDI and its connections; the CDI should have its own IGN B+12; the CDI has other interlocks from the neutral light, clutch switch and side stand switch; the CDI main triggers are from the pickup coils; the pickup coils produces very low pulsating voltage when a magnet is moved / interrupted across its face; the distance of the pickup coil to the magnet is critical; the time the pickup coil pulses is critical; the interruption of the magnet across the face of the pickup coil is caused by a small rectangular plate or tab attached to the 'rotor'.

pick up coil, stator, magneto..are these three different units? what if the pick up coil is faulty mate? are they available to buy?

Am pretty sure the problem lies in the TCI unit or the pickup...am confused with checking it, I mean I have the socket found with three cables, two from pickup and one from neutral switch...am going to use another multimeter cos may be mine seem to have a bad calibration, its a cheap Chinese shit,,,will borrow a frnd's. I placed probes on two white-green and white-red wires and set it to continuity check and multimeter was ok for continuity...its a single coil, a same wire coiled so there should be a continuity right, but the ohms am not sure if the multimeter working correctly it doesnt show zero initially but 1..and keeps showing 1..at kohms settings I think its showing a higher value given in the manual...XVS125 manual...must double check with a good multimeter...so the bike having pickup coil to give idea to the tci unit on present speed right..TCI unit getting power from battery and pulses from pickup..if TCI unit making sparks with power transistors..how come pickup coil is to be blamed...can u guys clarify this...rectifier getting AC voltage from Stator coil or magneto right? If pickup doing all this how can I repair it...? nervous!

It might need wider rims I guess, custom harleys often use wider cool looking tires, but the friction can increase so does the fuel consumption, however the bike will have more balance?? Ive seen guys here doing modifictions on XVs with wider tires...may be they can help..

Yeah buddy I didnt make any harm to the unit, being very careful here, how can I check the pickup? manual says pickup should have around 192 ohms...is that it?

Hi...checked the coils and connectors and all are ok with continuity and standard ohm values...now I have removed TCI unit, TCI unit repair was posted here before, but he didnt mention how he checked trnsistors for him to determine that transistors were faulty...no BCEs known so how can I check things?